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What did you do to your dime today?


Mesh-71

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Put in front and rear glass today.  Took my glass guy a couple months to get the front and get around to doing it with me.  Major milestone for me.

 

Put the second quarter window in as well, so now I should actually be watertight (not that the car is outside).

 

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OK, so quick question (well, maybe more than one).

 

When you did the front W/S, was it with the moulding installed or did you install the moulding after the fact.

 

 Did you do a rope installation with soap and water (be careful about the soap and water thing, Mr. Big tanker gets a little excited when he hears that)?

 

Did you start at the top of the W/S and work your way toward the bottom?

 

Missus Kelmo and I attempted to install the windshield in the goon yesterday and almost got 'er done. We started at the bottom and worked our way up. This was not the way I wanted to do it but #yesdear. The ones I have done have been on 1200's and have started at the top and worked toward the bottom and have worked out well.

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The front we did without molding installed.  We did the rear first with the molding installed, and had to remove the lower right to get the corner to fit better. To put in the front  afterwards, we sprayed the rubber with foaming glass cleaner (installer said he uses that for lube) and installed with trim sticks.  Was less difficult than I expected, but those pieces are mostly straight. I didn't like the lower corner overlap and still not sure I have it right (vertical over horizontal) but that looked best.  I have no separate corner pieces if there are  supposed to be any.

 

Standard rope  installation with a maybe 3/16 nylon cord.  Rope was wrapped from bottom around the top and back down with about a 2 foot long overlap at the bottom.  I pulled cord while he pushed on the glass. He instructed me to pull the rope  essentially parallel to the glass, keeping away from perpendicular.  No lube at all used, he said we wouldn't need it.  Pulled one lower side first, around the lower corner, up to just below the upper corner, then started the other way and check the fit on the bottom and sides before continuing with the upper corners and across the top.

 

It helped he had these suction cups (professional perks).  They have a flat surface you could hit with your had to move the glass down a bit after pulling the lower side.  https://equalizer.com/jetpacks-vacuum-cups

 

Front went smoothly compared to the rear as the Precision seal I had fit really well and was quite pliant despite being 11 years old and still in the bag.  Rear seal was from an unknown source and was a struggle to fit well at the lower corners.  Also has to at times roll the rear seal a little with my fingers as after pulling the rope it seemed to want to retract off the vehicle lip before  it was fully seated.

 

I think he also ran his trim stick around the seal from the inside after all in to make sure the fat part was all seated down on the flange and not hanging up anywhere.

 

Now that I have the quarter glass in too, I should be able to  do a water test on the glass.

 

Hope that helps.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Drove all the cars and decided to get the L20 block out side and rinse it off with mineral sprites and clean up all the machined surfaces that had sat for many years. Now to do my first build so everything is not spread out and make some room. So now I have to get some paint to paint the block, and any suggestions on building a L20 b is welcomed. 
 

 


 

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  • 3 weeks later...
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Late update: Replaced my worn down Drivers side Recaro seat with a newer one and feels really good! Been having back issues and this makes it feel better. Going to get new straps to refresh the old seat.

 

Also found a replacement Datsun emblem for the rear from the Datsloco swap and shine meet. Feels more complete!

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34 minutes ago, benzo said:

Late update: Replaced my worn down Drivers side Recaro seat with a newer one and feels really good! Been having back issues and this makes it feel better. Going to get new straps to refresh the old seat.

 

Also found a replacement Datsun emblem for the rear from the Datsloco swap and shine meet. Feels more complete!

 

 

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Where did you find the seat?

 

I have a Recaro CT that I made into an office chair.  I have been using it for probably just over a year now and it has done wonders for my lower back issues.

 

 

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46 minutes ago, iceman510 said:

 

Where did you find the seat?

 

I have a Recaro CT that I made into an office chair.  I have been using it for probably just over a year now and it has done wonders for my lower back issues.

 

 

 

I found it from a local seller. 

 

I may do that with my old seat until I get another project.  

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well off this week and it’s way warmer so I’m getting going on the L20B that will go in the 2door all apart. Been reading, reading, and reading (How to Rebuild Your Nissan/Datsun OHC Motor), So hopefully I won’t miss anything. My plan is to get the crank in and pistons in with all the goodie’s That go with them. If I get that done with no problem then I’ll see what’s next at that time. 
 

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Edited by edekalil
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Crank and bearings in and torqued up then I realize the rear seal is a bit crooked so I loosen the rear cap to help straighten it out then when when torque it up a cap bolt breaks. Also one of the nails did not go all the way down and bent at the top, I had the bevel facing in the correct way I guess just tuff luck. You can see the rear seal in the second pic I took of the nail. The rear seal is ok I gues I need a or 2 cap bolts now. Not sure how to address the nail issue as well. Suggestion’s welcomed I guess it could have worse. So for now the fun stops.

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Been a while but the seal is lubed with a smear of RTV and pushed down the hole with the two lips towards the crankshaft? Then the metal strip gently hammered down between it and the bearing cap till flush.

 

On 10/30/2022 at 5:29 PM, KELMO said:

Excuse me, I have to go touch myself now.

 

Damn.

 

Try choking your self with your other hand, it's even better!!!

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18 hours ago, edekalil said:

Crank and bearings in and torqued up then I realize the rear seal is a bit crooked so I loosen the rear cap to help straighten it out then when when torque it up a cap bolt breaks. Also one of the nails did not go all the way down and bent at the top, I had the bevel facing in the correct way I guess just tuff luck. You can see the rear seal in the second pic I took of the nail. The rear seal is ok I gues I need a or 2 cap bolts now. Not sure how to address the nail issue as well. Suggestion’s welcomed I guess it could have worse. So for now the fun stops.

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Well stupid is what stupid does I guess, I figured most of my ignorance yesterday. First I got in way to much of a hurry, as the old black lady used to say to me when I was a kid Haste Makes Waste. Fist I got in a hurry and did not notice the rear seal getting crooked and then torqued the cap bolts to the wrong setting. Now after the fact I see most of what I did wrong. So now I have a new set of bolts coming and plan to get a new rear seal set and give it another shot being more careful. I figure I’d rather redo it rather than have a leak way later because I left it as is. I figured a way to create a puller to get the center and rear caps out safely. After I get all the new bolts and seals I’ll give it another shot and be more careful not to be in a hurry and screw up.

Edited by edekalil
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