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I get my LEDs from SuperBrightLEDs. They have a wide selection of quality stock that won't just be whatever crap from eBay and Amazon. Sadly the square cluster has the plastic of the gauges tinted green, so I don't get to choose what light color I get.   I don't know about the round gauge cluster, but I can change all my illumination bulbs without removing the cluster at all, by reaching around under the dash. I have thin hands and I also know where all the lights are from having it out a couple times before.   When you buy these, it's probably a good idea to buy dimmable, even if you don't plan to use the dimmer knob. Our electrical switches are flaky, and my headlight switch in particular is causing a flicker. Cheap LEDs would likely be hurt by the inconsistent current. But LEDs are a good upgrade, not just for the brightness, but the lack of heat will prevent your cluster plastic from dryrotting and getting brittle, even discoloring. Also saves you about .1 volt of alternator output. Since these old vehicles don't have headlight warning beepers to scream at you when you leave the lights on, I like running all LED since if I leave my lights on, it won't run the battery down. Additionally I can see my cluster lit up in the daytime now and remember to turn my lights off.

OK, so I think I solved the mystery of why the boot failed. I don't have bump stops. I used the old bump stop holes for the sway bar. So it bottomed enough for the boot to contact the pinch weld and the boot did the rest.    I have the coil over conversion, so I am going to get some coil over bump stops and see how they work out.    So in short, it was something I thought I didn't need that bit me in the ass.   

I can vouch for the KF vintage floor pans, they are excellent for shape and hole placement, the edges overlap a little bit more than oem and you will have to trim or rework the tunnel side for fitment. I used the pair on my rust revival '72 510 and liked them so much I also bought the inner and outer rocker panels. The C2C ones look like they would be better for patching the floor back together.

I'm running 1 7/8 with a 2x24 cherry bomb and it's loud if I open up the secondaries but otherwise it's got a nice rumble. Old one was a Honda one like for a civic so similar size engine and it's about as big as you describe and it sounded like a tractor but wasn't insanely loud.