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I pulled center console gauges off a junkyard truck to install in my '86 Base. I plugged it in to the factory wiring harness under the dash, installed this oil pressure sensor, and added the center console wire to the factory harness in the engine bay per this video. Immediately the battery voltmeter came to life and the backlights work. However, the oil pressure gauge immediately rose to the max, 90 PSI. My engine is two years post total rebuild and two months post head gasket, so I don't think (am hoping) its not actually that high. I am reading 5.5 volts on the sensor spade.  Anybody know what might cause this? Is the sensor receiving too much/ not enough power? @datzenmike pls advise

So what's actually wrong with yours?   Some Radiator shops will clean out gas tanks and reseal them.... I think on mine they cut an access hole and even sand blasted what they could...   Also on mine my pick up tube was clogged so I had them drill it out and weld a npt bung in its place for a threaded marine pick up tube.... I also found the product they used to seal it after....  If it's just rust you can clean and reseal it your self.... I can add product links if interested in going the DIY route...

I kind of doubt it's s rod bearing. If worn excessively it would throw more oil around that cylinder over powering the rings and causing smoke. A simple checking of the plugs would show one was more oily than the others. It would also make a lot of noise accelerating and under load. Could just be all the rings are simply worn from normal use and need replacing.   If you haven't already, replace the valve seals. Now they can smoke off idle and after restarts, specially the intakes as intake vacuum pull oil down the valve stem. The valve guides may also be worn making oil control even more difficult. Valve seals can easily be done with the head on by inserting a couple of feet of 3/8" rope into the spark plug hole of the cylinder on the compression stroke. Turn engine by hand to compress the rope up against the closed valves. Remove the valve springs and change the seals and assemble. Valves cannot fall into the cylinder this way, no need for compressor or even a garage, you could do this on the side of the road even leave it and finish the next day.    Dirty engine: Mostly lack of oil and filter changes in the past, not your fault. If you are not now using this: start using Shell Rotella T4 10w30 engine oil. It's a diesel oil that has the same ZDDP level as the oil that was used when your A12 was new. Best of all it has a much higher detergent level and it will loosen and dissolve your engine dposits as you drive. Don't be surprised of the oil quickly darkens after a change. This is all the crud coming off. After several normal changes this will lessen.    A leak down test will show which cylinders are lacking compression and where the compression is going.  Sounds of escaping air at the carburetor means intake valve is leaking, at the tail pipe it's a leaking exhaust valve. At the valve cover it's the rings. If generally just normal wear the cylinders can be measured for taper or oval and if a pass hone and new rings. If worn over bore and over size pistons and rings. Basically you then have a new engine.   For rod and main bearings you can plasti-gauge the bearing clearances. Probably fine, or not excessive, and just replace them. This can be done with the crankshaft left in the block or during a rebuild.

Long overdue update.   A few months ago while leaving a local cars & coffee, I noticed big plumes of grey smoke coming out the tailpipe when accelerating off-idle. Not a good look. I parked it up when I got home to regroup and think of a plan.   I'm 99% sure that I've worn an engine bearing, most likely on a connecting rod. I think this happened when the engine got too hot last year on the freeway before I had the radiator recored and cooling system flushed.   The symptoms are: - lots of smoke after it starts - big puffs of smoke off-idle especially when idling for a while - low oil pressure after the engine is at operating temp and after starting while hot (light comes on for a few seconds) - knocking noise at idle that has gotten louder - stinky oil smell that permeates the whole house   I was hoping it was just an intake issue with the PCV valve as I replaced the original one with an aftermarket part years ago. I ordered an OEM Nissan one from the US that took an eternity to get here, but that didn't solve the problem. It did make it better though, so a partial win.   This was coinciding with her annual safety inspection which we are required to do for registration. Somehow she passed, so I've got a year to do what I think it needs.   I've got a few mechanical balls in the air, so the plan from here on out is this:   1. Sell one of our lesser used cars taking up space in the garage (it's already listed for sale) 2. Fix my daily drivers' problems and get rego again (it expired a month ago) 3. Remove the A12 from the 1200 and tear it down to find the cause. 4. Measure everything. Get block & conrod big ends machined. 5. Measure again. Buy bearings, gaskets and other parts. 6. Reassemble and put back in car. 7. Assume beginner's luck and start it first time with no problems. 8. Get another project car.   More on that last point in a future post. There's one in the chamber but a few things to sort out first.

You come up with the craziest conspiracies. Trump making money off of Epstein ??? Talk about gullible. That's like something Alex Jones would say about the left. Thanks for the laugh.