You can download the wiring diagram here...
You're wiring is definitely wrong. There should be one wire coming from the ignition of the fuse box.....that is on when running, but not when cranking....going to the resistor. It will be on one side of the resistor by itself. There should be another wire coming straight from the ignition switch that has power when cranking, but not when running(on position on switch) to the other side of the resistor. That connector should also have a wire connected to it that goes to the + of the coil. The - side of the coil should be connected to the points or trigger on the dizzy.
So....what is happening is that when cranking, the power from the ignition switch bypasses the resistor because it's connected electrically to the + of the coil. This allows a full 12v to the coil since the starter is going to drop the voltage while it's turning. When the ign switch is released from cranking and goes to the run position, the 12v comes from the fuse block to the resistor, which drops the voltage before it goes to the coil. Points coils are basically 6v coils and will overheat and burn out with 12v constantly going through them. They can get really hot and even "bloat" if constantly receiving a full 12v. Electronic ignition coils are made differently. They're typically a bit bigger physically since they have more coils in them to create a higher spark voltage. They also have the resistance built into them so there's no external resistor to deal with.