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mklotz70

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mklotz70 last won the day on January 2

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About mklotz70

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    Beelzebub

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  • Website URL
    http://www.bluehandsfab.com
  • ICQ
    mklotz70
  • Yahoo
    http://www.youtube.com/user/bluehandsvideo

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Gresham, OR
  • Cars
    '20 Kia SOUL GT-Line Turbo, '70 521(wife's),
  • Interests
    FABRICATING, MACHINING, CREATING, R&D, Prototyping NOT production!!!
    NL and 510 sold.
  • Occupation
    Electronic Tech for the USPS, Human being in training

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  1. Your disdain for fender mirrors is one of the reasons I love you bud!! :) LOL
  2. There's several places online to download the manuals....but here's one place I know of off hand. lol http://www.bluehandsinc.com/manuals.html If you have a Weber carb, follow it's directions closely. The primary goal when adjusting the weber is to have the throttle closed as much as possible. If it's open, even slightly more than it should be, it will uncover the vac advance line. You'll get no change in the vac signal so you'll end up with no vac advance, which causes bad hesitation. You'll also want to make sure that you have the vac advance line disconnected and plugged while setting the carb and the timing. The factory Hitachi is a great carb as long as the bushings for the throttle shaft aren't worn out and leaking air. They're easier to tune and I've always gotten better throttle response from them.......but....the webers tend to be better for the highway and get better gas mileage. The manual should have a cold setting for the valve adjustment. Doing it hot is best, but if you're not familiar with it, you can set them cold. I did this vid a really long time ago....it might help give you an idea what you're in for on a valve adjustment. The dual points dizzy you have is not truly a dual points dizzy. The second set is only for emissions. A true dual point will use both points in parallel to handle higher current and the points will be exactly 180deg from each other so that they open/close at exactly the same time. Make sure that you adjust the primary set of points. The emissions set can be removed. The manual will explain when the second set it used.......third gear while decelerating.....or something like that. There are a couple of options out there instead of the EI dizzy.....although the matchbox EI dizzy is the best. Pertronix units are probably still around. You can use a GM HEI ingnition unit with your points and there's a version of the matchbox dizzy that has a remote igniter. As Mike explained earlier....the EI and points coils are different. The points coil actually has the resistance built in, but a lot more windings to give a hotter spark. The points dizzy has an external resistor so that it can be bypassed while the engine is cranking. The starter pulls the volts down a lot while turning, so the resistor is bypassed to help give a hotter spark when starting.
  3. Getting caught up a bit..... Connor.....really nice CAD work on the firewall piece. Looking forward to seeing the 3d prints. Did you do them in flexible filament? Wayno.....yep....you're right, it was you that mentioned trying to put it on the inside.
  4. Once the CAD work is done for right or left, it's very easy to just "mirror" the object to get the other version. I had mentioned putting a "slit" in it before to save removing stuff from the column to install it........I would prefer it didn't have that, it was just a suggestion. It's not that hard to remove the steering wheel, blinker assembly and then drop the under dash support bracket. Granted, there will be a couple more items for the column shift.
  5. Since your 620 has ball joints, the easiest way to upgrade is to simply swap the entire spindle assembly from an HB into you truck. Disconnect the brake line at the frame, the tie rod end, the two ball joints and swap the entire unit. If you want, you can do this with dropped spindles. If you find donor setups with good rotors and calipers, but swap everything out, bleed the brakes and you should get an alignment, but it may not be necessary. You'll get vented rotors and parts that are readily available when they need to be replaced down the road.
  6. The rubber duct between the heater and the firewall would be a good one to look at. I don't recall if or what the 320's had, but the 521s could sure use a source for new ones.
  7. Possibly a slit with a flange on each side, below the column tube......? The gasket could be spread at the slit to slip over the tube, then a small amount of gasket/rubber adhesive used on the flanges to join them. No remove of anything on the column. Bit more of a challenge if it's a column shift, but something similar could probably be worked out. The metal mounting flange could have a split in it......should be able to spread it like a key ring over the tube.....provided the gauge of steel used isn't too thick.
  8. LOL.....I took it as "hit" as well.
  9. mklotz70

    Dog bones!

    Sweet. Glad to hear this. I've told people for years that this would work since it's a lot easier to find good 620 dogbone/kingpins in the scrapyards. You're the first I've heard that actually did it. :)
  10. I didn't have time last night to look it back up. This isn't the only one on the market, but it's the first one I learned about nearly two years ago. https://www.formfutura.com/shop/product/flexifil-black-221?category=163 Who knows, it might even work well enough to make a couple of test pieces for the vent rubbers. I don't know that I'd want this as a permanent solution.
  11. I think I might have mentioned it before.....there is a UV resistant, flexible filament out now that should work quite well for a lot of the smaller gaskets....such as around the side mirror base and marker lights. But....if these vent window rubbers actually come about, I would think that should prove this company enough to then have them make a bunch of these other gaskets. I'm sure nearly every 320 owner would like a new firewall gasket for around the steering column. :)
  12. Since you already have ball joints, your best options is to simply swap our your entire spindle for an HB spindle. If you have thoughts of dropped spindles, now would be the time to get them. The drum 620 conversions to HB discs is not a consideration for you. If you need to do it as cheap as possible, get HB spindles, rotors and calipers, but use your hubs. It would be way easier and simpler for you to just get the entire spindle setup from an HB. Pop the ball joints, the tie rods and the hose. I would not disassemble anything else....just swap the entire units. If you're switching to dropped spindles, then of course, you will need to do things differently. Using your hubs is better since they will fit smaller center holes on the rims. HB hubs require really large holes. You can dig around my site and find more info about the differences between the hubs. http://www.bluehandsinc.com/donor-vehicle-and-part-information.html
  13. If I'm understanding the specs your stating of the printing.....wow...very impressive! The 521 and pre-disc 620 frames are the same.....other than they used metric hardware on the 620. The disc 620's were disc and I'm pretty sure the frame got widened. The disc 620 and early 720 frames should be nearly the same.
  14. Sounds like an interesting project!!
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