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mklotz70 last won the day on January 2 2019

mklotz70 had the most liked content!

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About mklotz70

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Gresham, OR
  • Cars
    '20 Kia SOUL GT-Line Turbo, '70 521(wife's),
  • Interests
    FABRICATING, MACHINING, CREATING, R&D, Prototyping NOT production!!!
    NL and 510 sold.
  • Occupation
    Electronic Tech for the USPS, Human being in training

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  1. mklotz70

    Wheel fitment 17x8

    I wasn't trying to say the '97 stuff wouldn't work....just that I don't know. Sounds like you've got a good handle on it.
  2. mklotz70

    Wheel fitment 17x8

    mainer311......Sorry...I don't actually know.....but I'm pretty sure the 620 ball joint track width was about 3" wider, mounting face to mounting face. Trying to compare the HB hubs to the stock drums doesn't really get you anywhere. If the spindles and hubs were '87 instead of '97, I'd have a hair more info, but according to Rockauto, the '97 calipers only match back to a '92 d21...which makes me think that the hubs/spindles/rotors are all possibly different too. Everything I've worked with was prior to that..... '87ish. The hubs for the 620 disc were the same thru the '87 d21, for the most part, but I don't know about he next gen. I've spent the vast majority of my time dealing with what will fit behind the stock 14" rims. The big brake setups I've done for the HB spindles involved toyota 5 lug hubs.
  3. I personally hope they stay in biz. With over 8000 pictures on ratsun...all hosted on PB.......them shutting down will kill a lot of info. I don't like them either. I'm willing to pay to keep the pics alive, but I'm not willing to move and relink all those pics.
  4. The bolt I use in the kits..... Hex bolts, Zinc plated grade 8 steel yellow, 1/2"-20 x 3-1/2" https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=777
  5. Sorry....all gone now. I'm might try to make some more.....just no clue when.
  6. I sent you a pm about the urethane ones. They're nice and cheap. We know they don't last very long, so buy a few sets. Put some grease on the bolt or inside the bushings when you install them. The steel sleeve in the bushings rust to the bolt and then you have to cut the bolt out. If you can avoid that, then it's real easy to change out the bushings later. Ah.....yes.....Barto provided me with some great crash testing info. LOL I think we worked it out so that he got a set of the pretty blue ones before I ran out. Disc conversion? Which one?
  7. Yep....I machined those from a Energy Suspension bushing. There's a tiny chance I have a set of the 2 piece ones left, but I'm not sure. PM me if you want me to check. The rubber ones only last about 6 months in my experience and the front one gets completely crushed right after installation. All the trucks I've seen......the top of the dogbone gets pushed forward for some reason...really hard....so the delrin washers(on the ones I was making) on each side of the bushing aren't just there to look pretty. :) lol
  8. mklotz70

    my 65 320 build

    Looking forward to watching this build! I love seeing the machining and process pics. If all you showed was the anodized pieces, I would have assumed that they were simply purchased. I'm impressed that you did it at home.....and on manual machines! Nice! Welcome. :)
  9. mklotz70

    mrbigtankers 521

    yep.....we know.....you love him long time. lol
  10. info from a discussion about the wedge back in 2014. https://ratsun.net/topic/41595-timing-chain-wedge/
  11. Not me, but someone else that has sent me a bunch of info and pics. I'll see if I have time this weekend to round it back up.
  12. In that case, I have some info for you. I've been meaning to get it put up on my site for months now. I guess I'll have to get that done soon. lol
  13. mklotz70

    mrbigtankers 521

    I like them from an aesthetics point of view, but certainly not in something I'm actually going to drive a lot. Although, I do have to make exception for the ones hidden behind the tail lights. There could be one on each side making them more useful. :)
  14. Your disdain for fender mirrors is one of the reasons I love you bud!! :) LOL
  15. There's several places online to download the manuals....but here's one place I know of off hand. lol http://www.bluehandsinc.com/manuals.html If you have a Weber carb, follow it's directions closely. The primary goal when adjusting the weber is to have the throttle closed as much as possible. If it's open, even slightly more than it should be, it will uncover the vac advance line. You'll get no change in the vac signal so you'll end up with no vac advance, which causes bad hesitation. You'll also want to make sure that you have the vac advance line disconnected and plugged while setting the carb and the timing. The factory Hitachi is a great carb as long as the bushings for the throttle shaft aren't worn out and leaking air. They're easier to tune and I've always gotten better throttle response from them.......but....the webers tend to be better for the highway and get better gas mileage. The manual should have a cold setting for the valve adjustment. Doing it hot is best, but if you're not familiar with it, you can set them cold. I did this vid a really long time ago....it might help give you an idea what you're in for on a valve adjustment. The dual points dizzy you have is not truly a dual points dizzy. The second set is only for emissions. A true dual point will use both points in parallel to handle higher current and the points will be exactly 180deg from each other so that they open/close at exactly the same time. Make sure that you adjust the primary set of points. The emissions set can be removed. The manual will explain when the second set it used.......third gear while decelerating.....or something like that. There are a couple of options out there instead of the EI dizzy.....although the matchbox EI dizzy is the best. Pertronix units are probably still around. You can use a GM HEI ingnition unit with your points and there's a version of the matchbox dizzy that has a remote igniter. As Mike explained earlier....the EI and points coils are different. The points coil actually has the resistance built in, but a lot more windings to give a hotter spark. The points dizzy has an external resistor so that it can be bypassed while the engine is cranking. The starter pulls the volts down a lot while turning, so the resistor is bypassed to help give a hotter spark when starting.
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