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mklotz70 last won the day on January 19

mklotz70 had the most liked content!

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    east side of Portland, OR
  • Cars
    '20 Kia SOUL GT-Line Turbo, '70 521(wife's),
  • Interests
    FABRICATING, CREATING, R&D, Prototyping NOT production!
    NL & 510 sold.
  • Occupation
    Electronic Tech for the USPS, Human being in training

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  1. mklotz70

    NM 521

    If I remember right, there's a reinforcement bracket/plate behind the backing plate that the studs also go through....plus any flat and or lock washers.
  2. The rubber bushings(#8) have shown up on ebay several times. You should be able to look at the mechanism and it's pieces and see where the slop is. There's no easy way to make any kind of short shifter for it......at least not one that would be affordable. lol
  3. Just FYI....the two click function is a feature of all bear claw latches. It's a safety feature. It's still on new cars. :)
  4. When the door is fully closed and latched, does the door skin sit flush with the body panels?
  5. mklotz70

    NM 521

    Haven't read all the comments...... The factory carbs are great if they're done right and aren't worn out. The best running L-series engine I had at one point had a Hitachi on it. More torque and off idle response than a weber....by a mile! Typically, the Hitachi's are completely worn out at the throttle shaft bushings. If you can feel any wiggle in it, it's bad. You can spray carb cleaner or brake cleaner at the bushings while it's idling.....if the idle changes, they're bad. Biggest problem with the weber is they get tuned the same as the hitachi and that is NOT the correct way to do it. I don't have time to explain it all and I've posted it before....somewhere......but the goal with the weber is to get the butterfly as closed as possible and still run....then adjust the air mix.....if it speeds up, adjust the butterfly more closed to where it barely runs....chugs like a tractor....do this until there no change with the air mix. Close the air mix until the idle starts to drop.....open it back up a 1/4 turn? I think the tuning instructions found online say how much. If it's still chugging, you can now open the butterfly up a tiny amount. The hole for the vac signal to the dizzy is just above the butterfly, so if it's open even just a hair too much, you will get constant vac on that hole(and dizzy) and your off idle wil suck.
  6. have you checked the factory manual for the adjustment? http://www.bluehandsinc.com/manuals.html Maybe Mike and Charlie will remember....there was a swap at one point......Ranger door seals?? They made the door do that when they were used. Maybe the PO used those on your truck.
  7. mklotz70

    NM 521

    Oilspot and I measured actual tires......your chart was made by someone. The info I dug up supports the dimensions Oilspot and I have....ours are actually a bit small. I found two sites that list the 6.00-14-8PR LT tires. The 521 manual shows that the rears are the 8PR(8ply rating) and the fronts are only 6PR. Both sites list their tires of this size at 680mm overall diameter......which is 26.77" (26 3/4"). Tire Rack's site shows the 6.00-14 from 1965-1970 converts to 175/65R14. The line below that shows this size in previous years and gives different "current" sizes. 6" is only 152mm.....so the 175 listings are already wider, but at 70% sidewall height(times 2 plus the 14" rim only comes to 600mm....or 23.6"). A 175/80R14 would come in about 25", so maybe a 185/80R14 would be the closest....if they even make them. ***I just created a page on my site with this info to make it easier to find/reference later. http://www.bluehandsinc.com/misc-pics.html
  8. mklotz70

    NM 521

    in reference to the factory tires.....here's a pic of the height of a factory bias ply tire. http://www.bluehandsinc.com/misc-pics.html
  9. mklotz70

    69 Datsun 521

    There are other places to get manuals online, but this will get you started. http://www.bluehandsinc.com/manuals.html
  10. The tapers are all the same as the newer models, so if you really can't find one, it shouldn't be too hard to get later model parts an make one.
  11. If you don't care for the carb noise or want the factory look with the performance of the weber, you can modify the stock air cleaner to fit.
  12. Where's the picture of the shoehorn that got you in there? 😉
  13. I thought I came across something that mentioned me in here.....don't have time to scan completely through it. I see that it's about exhaust downpipes. I recently ordered in ten 3/8" steel flanges. I've finished prepping what's left and they're ready to go. They're not cheap....prices on everything has gone way up since the last time I did any of these. There's never been enough demand for me to want to shell out $400-500 for another order. lol If you're looking for stainless, Adam may still have a couple. Msg me if you want to know the price on mine. I have no clue on Adam's. http://www.bluehandsinc.com/store/p4/L-Series(4_cyl)_Exh_Downpipe_Flange_3%2F8"_Mild_Steel_________________________________.html
  14. Sorry for the delay.....still working through emails this morning......too busy and tired yesterday to get to it. I'll go find your email and reply. I should have the adapters....if not, I will in a few days. It's definitely my setup. :) I just noticed.....that bracket is for the other side. The tabs go on the inside. Second half of the page..... http://www.bluehandsinc.com/truck-kit-install.html
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