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mklotz70

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mklotz70 last won the day on January 19 2021

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    http://www.bluehandsfab.com
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    mklotz70
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    http://www.youtube.com/user/bluehandsvideo

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    east side of Portland, OR
  • Cars
    '20 Kia SOUL GT-Line Turbo, '70 521(wife's),
  • Interests
    FABRICATING, CREATING, R&D, Prototyping NOT production!
    NL & 510 sold.
  • Occupation
    Electronic Tech for the USPS, Human being in training

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  1. That "Mike" would have been DatzenMike. If you're just starting, use anything but PB. I'm at their mercy since I have over 9000 pics/vids in my account. It would be nearly impossible to transfer them all or relink them. If I shut them off, there would be a huge number of threads affected by it.......many of them are ones I refer back to so I can remember what I did. lol
  2. mklotz70

    NM 521

    ...so what was the fix for the regulator issue?
  3. mklotz70

    1971 Datsun 521

    Short answer...yes, it sounds like at least one of the diodes is shorted. Long answer.... Sounds like you have a multimeter. If so, go to the ohms/resistance setting. Hopefully, it's auto ranging, but if not, a setting in the middle is a good place to start...200? 2000? If it's auto ranging, ignore the comments about changing the range. If it's not, you'll need to keep switching the range from lowest(to check a sort) to highest(to check an open). Touch the leads together. It should show a short....zero ohms or really close....that proves that the meter is working. Disconnect the wires(all) from the alt. Put the neg lead to the case of the alt and touch the pos lead to the E on the alt.....you should get zero(or near zero) ohms. This proves you have a good ground(continuity between the case and the E terminal. Now touch the pos lead to the other terminals on the alt. Set the range to the largest selection and it should still show an open(really high ohms....meg ohms). If the alt is bad, you'll probably see a very low reading. To see the lowest ohm reading, turn the range down on the meter. Reverse the leads.....pos on the E or case and neg on each of the terminals. The B post(main alt output) should be an open with the leads on this way and then a low resistance when the leads are switched to the other way. There's lots of videos on YT about how to test the alt with a meter.....check some of those out. I'm so rusty at this stuff, I may just be muddying the waters. lol This is a good vid, but way more involved than what you need. At the 12 min mark, he does the test I just described. Check the vid for his AC test....if a diode is bad, I think the AC volts will be high. ....more good info... https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=farmall&th=1082507 ....and if you want to know everything about how the alt works...... chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/viewer.html?pdfurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.metroplexalternator.com%2Fuploads%2F1%2F5%2F2%2F8%2F15280940%2Fcharging_system_theory.pdf&clen=1653762&chunk=true
  4. mklotz70

    1971 Datsun 521

    I doubt this will add any answers, but maybe some clarity. The continuity tester is like the ohms setting on a multimeter. It has a battery inside it that will turn the light on when the circuit is completed...in other words, has continuity. There are higher end test lights that look like yours that do multiple types of tests....continuity being one of them. You do not have that. Your test light lights when there is an external battery (voltage) providing the juice. When you connect the ground cable to ground and then the tip to something providing voltage, it will light. Be careful putting it in series because if the drain(load) is too high, it will burn out the bulb. So, putting the test light between the neg term on the batt and the battery cable(disconnected) will show small drains(current flow), but if you were to turn your key to start, you'd probably burn the bulb out because of how much load(current) it was trying to pass. You multimeter's amp setting probably only handles 10mA.....which is not much. Most users kill this function trying to check current by doing the same thing that burns out the bulb in the test light....putting it across a load drawing too much current. This may answer some questions about the alt connections... http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=IR_Alternator_Conversion_Wiring It does say in there that the F wire to the alt is constantly hot, even when the car is off. Alternators do not have permanent magnets in them like generators. They require a small amount of external voltage to "excite" the windings. They create a field(EMF) that induces the voltage into the main windings once the the pulley is spinning. The secondary windings have to be moving for this to happen....no motion, no volts. Once it start spinning, the main(battery) output of the alt is looped back to the N(S) to keep providing the "excite" voltage. That's the white/yellow jumper. It's constantly HOT because it comes directly from the battery. The diodes should stop it from back feeding or draining the battery. The F terminal is basically the same as the B, but not made to handle as much load.....so it goes to the CHG(IGN) light or other meters/test indicators. Your WR/WB jumper is simply to make the CHG light work. So.....connect the batter cables......then connect the grd clamp of your light to the neg term. Remove the S line from the alt and probe it....it should light your test light, proving it's always hot as it should be. The big wire on the back of the alt should be hot as well. Once turning, it puts out a higher voltage than the battery and charges the battery. With the motor running, that wire should have about 14.4 volts on it. If not, you probably have a bad alt......make sure the S wire is hooked back up first. Hopefully, I'm right on all of this. It's been a really long time since I've even looked at this stuff. The 1200 page has some great info on it....default to it if I'm wrong about any of this. lol I should have been in the shop an hour ago. Gotta run. Good luck!
  5. Hello,  I am clicking over from facebook, where you posted the link to these spacers.  Do you still have them available?

     

    thanks.

     

    Paul

    1. mklotz70

      mklotz70

      Sorry....I just happened to notice this.  I'm assuming this has already been taken care of....??  If not, yes, I have them, but since I just sent some out a week or two ago, I'm betting they went to you.  If you haven't seen it, my site is www.bluehandsfab.com

      -Mike

    2. 22350

      22350

      already got them from you and they are in

      thx

       

    3. mklotz70

      mklotz70

      Thanks.  It gets pretty challenging trying to figure out who is who with different screen names on every platform. lol

  6. mklotz70

    NM 521

    You can find those at Home Depot in the hardware aisle. Boring fact for the day.....the locking fuel doors with a finger pull bump were not the factory version....they were done at the dealer or elsewhere. The factory locking door did not have a finger pull bump.
  7. posting to follow. :)
  8. Did you ever get these installed? I'm curious how they fit.
  9. All the hubs...620, 720, and HB will all interchange. The only real difference is the diameter of the nose and which rims they'll fit in. Did you look at the pics of the rotors on the page I linked? If you think those parts are frontier, they're most likely early frontier, which would make them the same as the HB........from what I can tell. You seem to know that they're frontier parts.....so do you know what year? The rotor is probably the only part that may be different......take it to a local parts store and compare it to a new one before you buy it. The ball joint tapers are all the same.
  10. rockauto.com is a great resource for looking up this kind of info. According to them, all the '98 and up Frontier calipers were two piston. The rotors and calipers from 12/85 thru 1997 are the same. After '94, RA just lists "Pickup" and doesn't call it a Frontier until '98. They also don't call it a D21 after '94. 11/85 and older were 720....the calipers are the same but the rotors had a shorter top hat. I can't see the top hat in this pic very well, but they look like they have the taller hat. I have pics on this page that will show the differences and the year breakdowns for 620/720/HB rotors. http://www.bluehandsinc.com/hub-info.html If you're looking to swap these onto a ball joint 620, they should be fine.
  11. Sounds about right more than it sounds familiar. lol It's been quit some time. I'm sure more people than I remember have been over here for one reason or another. Glad to see you're back on ratsun again. :)
  12. In the states, back then, the date on the title was the year it was sold. If it was made 9/69, it would have taken a month or two to arrive in FL and probably sold after the first of the year....so it's a '69 titled as a '70. Mike already pointed out some of the "tells" that let us know it's a '69. :)
  13. Your memory is better than mine Aaron.......what did you come over for....maybe that will jog it. lol :)
  14. mklotz70

    NM 521

    The pin you're referring to is the same diameter for both...brake and clutch...... 5/16 or 8mm. It's actually 8mm, but if you can't find a metric one, the 5/16 is close enough. 8mm + .31496 and 5/16" = .3125 Did you check the pedal height from the floor as spec'd in the FSM? Could be your pedal is set too low. If you got a factory replacement, then it came with a non-adjustable push rod.....right? It's the captured type with the mushroom head on it. I'll be really surprised if it's not. Any scrap yards near you? You can get a pin from almost any older datsun....probably almost any Asian import.
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