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mklotz70 last won the day on January 2 2019

mklotz70 had the most liked content!

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About mklotz70

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  • Gender
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    Gresham, OR
  • Cars
    '20 Kia SOUL GT-Line Turbo, '70 521(wife's),
  • Interests
    FABRICATING, MACHINING, CREATING, R&D, Prototyping NOT production!!!
    NL and 510 sold.
  • Occupation
    Electronic Tech for the USPS, Human being in training

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  1. There's some info in this vid.... Some more here...... .....still more.... .....and.....
  2. Really??? That just might make posting on ratsun a lot more inviting.
  3. Thanks for the link. I had heard about this and was even contacted about possibly doing something for this project.....but I haven't heard anything since. Would be cool. :)
  4. I'll bet that's a lot dryer than the last place you were at in WA. lol It will be interesting to see if everything is twice as good next year or half as good. This year has definitely been a strange one. Things here are fine. It would be nice to be excited about something again.....things are pretty much "meh" lol Mike
  5. Wow! Garry!! You're still alive! LOL Great to hear that you're back in WA. By "dry" side.....are you talking the middle of the state or all the way over by Spokane?
  6. That could have been the case, but I'd be willing to bet that the actual problem was that the bushings were not oriented correctly to line up with the holes. In effect, the exact same issue. I know it's a technicality, but for anyone doing their own kingpin rebuilds, they need to line the holes up. I wonder if there's a chance that the bushing got dry and stuck to the pin.....and then rotated in the casting...? I'm glad you posted that Vicdat.....it's something I've never come across and never thought about happening. If I ever do any more rebuild vids about kingpins, I'll bring that up for owners to look for. :)
  7. mklotz70

    New guy here!

    Just to add an option to the carrier bearing fix. Energy Suspension sells a urethane DIY kit for making your own bushings. It's a two part urethane that you can mix and pour into a mold. It would be a lot more work since you'd have to take the assembly out of the truck. I've also heard of guys using the urethane made to clue in front windshields. It comes in a caulk style tube and can be squirted in without removing the assy. mudflap material and tire sidewalls might work in place of conveyor belting.
  8. The 521's brake lines are SAE....3/16" line with 3/8x24 threads on the fittings. If you buy pre-made lines that are a bit long, you can typically put a loop or bends in the line to take up the excess. Doing that will eliminate having to flare any ends on. But, if you get a flaring tool, you can custom fit the lines to your truck. Are you still running drums? If you don't know how to flare the lines, this vid will give you an idea on flaring and bending.
  9. Mike,

    Do you ever host local visitors that have questions or would appreciate someone else looking at their rig to see/gain your perspective as next steps in updating/changing/selling?

    I live local and am curious about having another set of eyes take a look at my 620.

    With Covid-19, if that's an issue currently, I get it, but am asking in general.



  10. Hi. I've been around here awhile, although I'm not as active these days. If/when you get the electronic copy, I'd be happy to host it on my site. I'm sure there are a couple of others that may offer the same. I only have some truck manuals on mine right now. Anyway......if you go to the bottom of my contact page..... http://www.bluehandsinc.com/contact-bhf.html ....you'll find a link to upload large files to my media fire account. Once they're uploaded, I'll then put them on the manuals page on my site. I'm not positive if there's a place for files here. It will be best to have the manual in a few places in case one of us shuts down. But, I can at least get you a place to start with. If you search for factory datsun manuals online, you'll find a couple of places that have them. They may offer to have it scanned for you.
  11. Any chance you have a fairly big slide hammer? 5-10lb. Like the ones used for body repair years ago. I have one from HF, but I don't know if they still sell them. As an option to the studs being gone......maybe some higher grade "L" bolts...? Might be possible to put the short end in and rotate it past the bend in the bolt. If you could get three of those in, you could use a puller that typically mounts to the studs. The L bolts might work with the slide hammer too. I'd still use a good bit of heat around the center of the hub. I'm not sure about the welding....at first it sounded like a great idea, but if it's cast iron instead of cast steel....it won't work well and could ruin the drum.
  12. I've been busy making parts. I've got a few of most items and trying to get more made of everything. The site is back on for now. Not sure just how long I'll keep at it....maybe it's just today, but I'm already feeling a bit burned out. lol
  13. mklotz70

    Moss covered 521

    Just a note on the locking fuel door......replacing that will alter your patina on the outside.....and there's no finger pull bump on the factory ones. A lot of people have punched a hole in a non-locking door to get the security. Congrats on the score.
  14. In this case, I agree on the studs, but on a typical rear axle, they can be removed to help eliminate some of the rust and surface contact that can be bonding the drum to the axle. Most of the early advice was given based on the assumption that it was a standard axle, not a tapered axle.
  15. A lot of vehicles from this era had similar rear axles. You might type this into google....there seems to be quite a bit of info out there about them for other cars/trucks. Looks like your best puller uses the studs, but you've already punched too many out. 😞 removing rear drum on tapered axle with key Also....from the early '50's to 1960?, Datsun had a deal going with Austin. You might check into Austin parts and info from around the same year as your truck. This is just FYI for others that enjoy Datsun history. This might be standard wiki info, but it's the best write up of Datsun history that I've ever come across. Please, check it out, enjoy it, but don't comment on it here. I don't want his thread hijacked. If that starts to happen, I'll delete this post. https://www.1aauto.com/datsun-parts/ma/34
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