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banzai510(hainz)

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banzai510(hainz) last won the day on November 17 2011

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About banzai510(hainz)

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  1. dont really matter as far as Im concerned as mild is mild. a degree wheel is best but you cam sprocket has 3 spots and each is what 4 degs I think I cant remember but L20s cam at #2 position.
  2. I went with a pop cap type radiator cap if that matters but still run a overflow "mountaindew" bottle. As Wayno experinced I delt with this issue before and the 1/8 160 seemd to work best and a pop rad cap(i noticed it sooner cause the cap popped) By all means if yo can the pipeing I would use it but you have a nice head that can be used for a sidedraft set up later and dont want to drill holes in it.
  3. ON my 510 its been like that for years and has Mikunis 40s WITH 3 CORE My yellow 510 was plugged this way also and car has been that way for 30year before I sold it I run a 160DEG GERERIC 54MM STAT with a1/8 hole. However on 85 deg plus days I dont want to get caught too long in stop and go traffic as my Mikunis start to cook. My 521 is stock and I have the bypass with the U shaped hose to the lower part of the stat ans still run a 1/8 hole. However I have a chinese 3 core and if i runn a 180 or above the radiator leaks like a sheeve so I put the 160 back in and seems ok with a quart to add every month as those a ?able radiators. On those U shaped maybe 2-3 in hose I had the last one from renton Nissan when Wendy bought it for me. She used to be at Renton Nissan ans is smart on the older nissans if shes still there as for this bypass U shpaed hose. LIke I said earlier there I think on the 72s there is no U shaped hose from tube to the lower stat housing. I have used both and maybe still have it. so I have 2 state housing types. One with a hole and one that dont (just the temp hole)
  4. if the distributor bushing is worn this can cause later proplems. wiggle the dist shaft side to side and see how much play. this will tell you. I always set my points on .020. The coil charges when closed and the coil fires when points open as the coil will release it charge thru the plug wire to plugs. so a worn bushing COULD throw the spark timming off or not at all
  5. I just plug up the hose below the fuel pump. some thread that part other use a bolt and a clamp. The L shaped one. and delete everything the pipe and either plug the state hoousing or find one that dont have the bypass port built into it. Like your running sidedrafts carb
  6. clean the white connector connections that plugs in the fuse box if you havent done this already. of coarse it going to run coolor if the rear lamps are not drawing anypower.
  7. Its up to you . I like not haveing holes then the intake manifold will NEVER leak water. Esp if one runs sidedraft Mikunis. Thats what I would keep the head for. In winter yout want the holes in the head to warm up the manifold to keep the carb from freezing. On 510s there was 2 types of metal tubes that went to the manifold t heat. One has a port that cam frm the thermostate housing(U shaped) a later one didint have this. So depends what you have and what is going to be needed. So I had both set ups. So depends what parts you have on hand. I put a 1/8 hole in the thermostat. On the head one can drill a 1/4 hole in the the head by centering a intake gasket. I make the hole 1/4 incase you want to go to sidedraft and maybe wont ike as bad or you can maybe plug it . did this on my U67 and have been running since about 2003. Maybe I could have gotten away with not drilling a hole but its ez to figure out. I was going up HWY 18 in winter and car was acting like running out of gas higher elevation. I pull over and carb was like ICED up. So if you dont drive it often in winter I wouldnt worry about it
  8. MIke I had condenser issue once and either it was bad or maybe they short I don't know. Above idle it would cut out. swpped it out then was good Other issues was not screwed in tight . Once I went toPertronixI never looked back at points again. CHlt2 when you get a condensore kit there is 2 of them , Use the big one. unless major bad with the sparkplug I highly dought its them. valve lash ck? have a spre distributot to drop in and time it?
  9. changed the left turn signal bulb. OK just joking
  10. banzai510(hainz)

    My 1971 521

    I think rockauto had ITM branded ones for 15$ apc ck it out. That one you got is BAD. give them the head as pictured. Tell them if they cut the seats and valves every thing needs to be even across so you don't need to get new lash pads. Or hope not to as it still might change after being cut. This 100$ is going to be 2000 soon enough but the rocker is bad https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4800036&cc=1212321&jsn=904 cant tell but look like the good ones. can order on and see if says made in Japan. Then order 2 motor set one for this motor and another spare set for your L16 if needed laster PS look like there is cam tower shims already on there. Silver Seal has them if need more
  11. the fuel return . mine not in use anymore. I remember ing looking under the car and it was worn out and cut from something. Hate to see a halfshaft take out the hoses for some reason. I just use 1 line goin into the carb and the fuel filter by the battery that it. Your looks like a a lot of hoses and I would delete them if possible as for 510 brakes and STANA Im don't know if they interchanges at all. IN USA most go to the 280zx struts with brakes and all. Lowers car abit and 3/4in more rim inside
  12. make it more clear. Acelleration while the clutch is coming out or just starting from a rolling slow to speeding up by just pushing on the pedal.? Whats the timming ? accel pump on carb good? But you say new carb also. So really it should be good If it was a clutch then you would have had the proplem ealier before the new clutch. Most time the clutch slips if flywheel needs to be turned.
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