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banzai510(hainz)

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banzai510(hainz) last won the day on November 17 2011

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About banzai510(hainz)

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  1. Plugged idle jet is the first cause. could happen from rust or dirt in gas tank. But if otherwise runs carb most likely ok unless a vacuum leak like from a cracked carb adapter if it’s a thin cast one. I like new carbs myself but a 20 year carb is in the middle range myself.for me the accel pump diaphragm leaks which I have done a few over the years
  2. Put on TDC and open the dist cap and see where the rotor points.should be pretty close to pointing on #1 plug wire.If close just turn the distributor back and forth and hope it starts. hope the ignition wires are still stock withe the hot start wire in the correct spot you get spark? you open up the valve cover?maybe the valve lash is bad.
  3. The ballast resistor wire is simple.blk whit is ignition the blk blu is the start or bypass wire which you need both the wires from the dist you don’t need primary and the 2ndary The switch on the fire wall not needed the 12volt choke wire?????the the relay for that the volt reg most just use the jumper wires OR using a old mating VR connector shorted the is plugged in
  4. As for the wiring I assume it’s goin to stay in the car.yes the original wiring the new motor wiring your going to use the original to work the new wiring why would you pull out the original wiring out that already works.lights horn gauges ect.... the hot start wire ect you can use as a signal or what ever you need it most people get Jeff’s CanAm relay box to hook up the engine management from the original wiring most Japanese cars have the lights ect hooked up to the positive side and then they switch the ground. The ignition is key switches for a reason. But even that the points is a switching ground.
  5. 100mm bore ? Is that even possible???? why even worry about stock L20 cam? Go bigger minimum a 460 lift cam as a start L16 Cam as said is worst of the lot
  6. Chavez if your truck is running fine just keep it that way.
  7. banzai510(hainz)

    My 1971 521

    Side seals I got the Nissan ones and they can go in either way if I remember what they look like.They one pc design i think I used a Felpro in one of my motors on the rear main.Engine builder does my lower blocks
  8. If your cam has a boss on the center you could put a big wrench on there and turn lower crank bolt till it rest on a hard surface then use a breaker bar on the lower crank pulley. my vid on Vemio.com. Put in Hainz Datsun and should pop up. Show how one can do it.
  9. I bolted on a stock L18 and worked fine but it was a 40 mm set of mikunis On a 510.A 521 would be better as for the low heat ratio i hear the Weber’s the low speed circuits isn’t as good as the mikunis Do Not get 44/45mm sets as they too big
  10. Yeah the lower hose I assume the 510 lower hose will fit. Since it looks like a 510 rad. i bought 1/4 and 1/2 inch spacers but forgot which ones I used. i routed over top of the rad,The wire harness . I wrapped it with fiberglass tape to help from abrasion./Heat
  11. Well that might be it.as some body on here said the later 620 s didn’t have sway bars
  12. Just get a Weber 32/36. Simple. unless some body has this single side draft as a Mikuni set up that is already to go and bolt up. mikuni has a better idle and low circuits . i don’t know why people even bother I would just get duals when doing sidedrafts.
  13. Does it have a sway bar up front?
  14. Is that a 510 radiator? It looks like one by the lower spout coming out at almost 90 deg so assume it’s a 510 hose that hooks up to that how much was it? like I said mine leaked with anything above 180 deg.made in china you use a 1/4 or 1/2 spacer!
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