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banzai510(hainz) last won the day on November 17 2011

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About banzai510(hainz)

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  1. a lot may depend on the quality of the ohm meter also.
  2. Ck and clean the fuses. get a volt meter to make sure to see what voltages you are getting. you could always pull the alt and take to NAPA to load test. But could be a loose or dirty contack at the fuse box that powers the alternator windings your car is most likely unmolested so it will be simple fixes.
  3. as Crashed said find a old volt reg and jumper the wires there and then plug in to engine harness if you running a IR Alternator
  4. PB Blaster. or acetone mix with auto trans fluid. soak the bolts and use antiseize next time. be honest if you don't have to break them loose ,dont
  5. Hope it don't live in Seattle outside like that for the rest of its life. Sell it to me!!! I got some SSR Mesh that would fit that
  6. put the old stuff back in. Try that first. Coils most never go bad!!! Weird not running in rain? condensation under the distributor cap?????? Previous owner of my truck said the gas gauge would rise when wet/ rain out. Find out fuel neck and tube was looseenough to let water run in the tube and tank. filling with water and rusting out and getting rust in idle jet Love NGK wire sets insert and feel the click of it going on tip of plug
  7. oil pump I fill with thick oil then route a hose from the oil filter side and pump to the front cover. if distributor is CCW all the way on timming plate either you need to try to adjust the 8mm under the dist and it will move the plate more or less in hopefull the dierction you need to go. losen both the 10mm hold down and the 8mm and try moving . Or maybe off a tooth or maybe you have the wrong pedastal for that dist but highly unlikey. also I prime my fuel pump , and carb see gas squirts in. or maybe pour a bit in to get it to fire faster. wait for oil pressure . warm up and I started just driving mine
  8. this is me. On the stat housing and cover you got to be careful. I seen alot of bolts break, I would find soem spares while your at it. I persoanlly would not revove the housing from the head. The stat cover most likely is rusted in there also. but be nice to put a new stat in there. I have cracked 2 since owning Datsuns most time taking the sender out. I just get spares or new housings when possible
  9. TSI Automotive sell Denso staters for British cars. maybe those will x ref to a J motor
  10. banzai510(hainz)


    Gery what you trying to achive here. Higher revs just for higher revs? I lower gear car will rev higher. but wont get the top end. lower gas milage. a higher gear will maybe get soem better top end but will stop at a certain point cause motor will not have enought torq to turn it any faster. Most 5th gears are just a overdrive to lower the motor 500 rpms or so while cruising. I had a nice L20 and 1sr gear to 7K was ez. But in 5th now way. was a March box EI ignition old cars the distribtors are old and wobbley ans getting to 6k might be made in a L16/18 but in a 20 I say no and run out of carb by then.
  11. brand names? Nissan head gaskets. OSK, Tsubaki timming kits, Made in Japan, Not Mellig or Cloyes those use taiwain chains and USA 3 hole sprockets. Might not be bad but cant verify timming marks for cam alighnment Paurant water, oil pumps(uausally reboxed Hitachit made in Japan Felpro gaskets are OK for the rest of the motor and the headgasket for a L16 83 mm. on 85mm I would go nissan or Durapro which I get from Datsport in Austraila which is a Jap made graphite gasket in 87mm Clevite bearings But my piston s were ITM brand made in Taiwan and seemed OK as it now has 190k on motor now. soemtimes thats all is now listed as parts are drying up and most might be more NON Jap made parts back in the day Beck Arnley, Bap Geon was all just reboxed Factoy parts. Busta Nut on here was getting good parts from somewhere but forgot the name
  12. have the block done. I had both of mine done by a shop that does imports. I got 190K on my 521 motor that was redone. most like might need a rebore. finding L18 pistons are hard . 4cc dished 85mm cranks are most likely good. but ck the bearings. Personally I would just see if you get by just clean up the bores and new pistons. the side crank seals I would get the nissan ones and give to the engine builder. find Jap made timming kit. if possibel truck is still running buy a hopefull know running more and rebuild it on the side. But if not possible you know your motor is good and dont have overheat issues then most likely its good
  13. maybe clean the idle jet. but don't drop it. I had a weber that had the electric cut off and I daisy chained it to the choke. I made a jumper to plug in the stock wire then it went to the choke and the lug had another wire jump to the selinoid. So I needed the 12volts to keep the idle. I went back to manual later but its designed to keep the motor from dieseling like the later stocj Hitachi carbs. time and adjust the mixture to best running condition. as for plugs buy stock ones. I rarely change out plugss and dist caps anymore. Got like 8yrs on mine
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