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About Logical1

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  • Birthday 07/10/1980

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  • Cars
    1970 510 L18
  • Interests
    Computers, Technical Theatre, High Maintenance Women, & Datsuns!
  • Occupation
    Assistant Technical Director
  1. Logical1

    Mechanical Timing

    Copy. Thanks Mike, Figured it was simple.
  2. Logical1

    Mechanical Timing

    Block is at TDC and the head has sat on the bench untouched. should still be in matched timing, is it just a try a get the sprocket into the links as close as possible till it fits onto the cam?
  3. Logical1

    Mechanical Timing

    Hey a friend of mine has a 81' a10 and was in the process of changing the head gasket on his z20. He let the project sit for a few months and just asked me for help. After taking a look at it, he has the head off and the timing chain wedged luckily, however he did not mark his timing chain to sprocket placement. Is there a trick to get the sprocket and chain aligned correctly without pulling the timing cover and starting from scratch? Seems like there should be and it is probably fairly obvious, been working 12's so I am braindead!
  4. Logical1

    Resurrecting an abused 84' 4x4

    Hey all, So picked up a 84' 720 4x4 a few months ago for cheap. it barely ran at the time, but the price was unbeatable! I got her home went to work on her! She had no power, sticky brakes, bad alignment, FUBAR electrical and misc other issues. I tackled the engine first, found out it had the 2.0 mileage option engine with a 2.4 head, pulled the head off and found an obviously blown head gasket and copious amount of stop leak in the coolant passages. Figured out the previous owner had put the 2.2-2.4 head gasket on and tried to make it work with all that stop leak. The head was also beat to shit with cracked valves and score marks on the cam journals. I had a z22 sitting around so I pulled the head off it, the intake off the 2.4 head, hogged out the head ports on the 2.2 head to match the 2.4 intake, slapped a brand new weber on and put her back together. Ran amazingly better! however it was randomly not getting spark do to the previous owners wire hack. I have fully re-wired several other Datsuns with L-motors and KA swaps, However this is my first foray into the napz . I did a bunch of research via Ratsun and the net in general. Via a post about wiring a napz into 510 frame by Datzenmike on the realm, I found the minimum wiring to run the engine: Re: z24 ignition ?s how do i wire up a z24 in a 510 Postby datzenmike » 19 Apr 2011 12:52 E-Blue....to neg side of Ex coil. B-Black/white to positive side of intake coil. This is where it gets it's switched 12 volt source. C-White.....plugin for shutting off exhaust side plugs plugs I-Red....to negative side of intake coil. Based on this list of connections from the distributor, I wired it up accordingly (without using the white wire obviously because of the weber) and ran switched 12v power to the positive side of both coils and tied into the black/white wire to power the dizzy. Now because the harness is FUBAR I am only using my fresh new wiring and so the only wire going to the ignition besides the ones coming out of the dizzy and connecting to the coils, is the 12v switched power. Switched on power to the ignition and turned her over. HOLY MOLY! purred like a kitten on catnip! was, stoked and took her out for a drive. went about 20 miles and got back home, popped the hood, no hot wires, ran nice cool in the lower half of the temp gauge and didn't burn a drop of oil or coolant. However on a whim i touched the coils and they were quite warm, not BURNING hot, but WARM for sure. If I remember right non electronic or points coils will over heat if exposed to full 12v. Also, next to the coils tied into the original hacked harness was a little black plug that i looked up the part number and it turns out to be a Nissan ignition condenser. I thought condensers were only for points? Do I need to use the condenser inline somewhere? I figured the 84' nissan's had electronic ignition as they first started in the late 70's trucks. Anyway, any info would be helpfull and more pics and curious fixes to come!
  5. I have a really nice bedliner on my 81' 720 diesel that just died and I would be willing to part with it but shipping to Hawaii is going to be prohibitively expensive. If you are die hard interested I can send you pics, Pm me.
  6. Been a while Ratto's! I picked up a 81' 720 Diesel with the SD22 about 2 years ago. It was a smokey slow bitch but I loved her dearly. I commute crazy miles for work and just after I hit 200k on the odometer she started knocking really badly. (yes I know its a diesel & I kept fresh oil and water in it) It lost about half its power, was a bitch to start and was smoking like a chimney, Checked the oil and water and neither had any contamination. It wasn't burning oil that much faster that it had been over the years and not over heating. This led me to think the rings had failed and it just wasn't reaching the compression it needed. I don't think its the head gasket but I ordered one anyway (hasn't arrived yet). From my research the 81 SD22 has 3 rings on the pistons and I haven't been able to find a 3 ring kit. However Even If I could I don't have the time to do a full rebuild right now. That being said I loved the diesel for the mileage even though it was the slowest beast ever. I wouldn't mind re-building the diesel in the future...However I need to get this truck back on the road asap, so some questions: 1. Does a L-Series bolt into the 720? not looking to use the diesel trans, wondering if I can pick up a L-series engine/tranny and drop it in. (motor mounts?) 2. If a L-series bolts up, is there a specific oil pan for the fit? the sd22 has a raised part in the middle of the pan for the crossmember. 3. If the L-series bolts up , is there a tranny that doesn't require driveline alteration? 4. I know the napz motors are normally in these trucks, Not a huge fan of the napz series. is there any other motors that bolt in? 5. Is it worth it to hold onto the SD22 and rebuild it? seems like parts are becoming unobtanium these days. I'm looking for the easiest, cheapest, fastest route to a work truck. Should I try and resurrect the 720 or just find a cheap 620 and start back into my comfort zone of Gasoline and older models ;)
  7. I would be interested in one the engines, & an el/matchbox dizzy depending on price and condition. I cant cross the border (Canada is scared of me) but I would be willing to drive to the border near Osoyoos and possibly haul other Puget Sound area peoples parts if they wanted...
  8. Logical1


    Saw a lime Green Z (240/260 looking) pulled over with sex lights behind them on highway 18 by Auburn last night around 9'ish. Hope they were gentle!
  9. Logical1


    Whats not to love about two epic rotary engines and all that polished metal!
  10. Logical1

    Quick Diesel Help (81' 720 SD22)

    So, changed both fuel filters and so far so good...just got to Portland and still running strong. Thank you everyone for your help!
  11. Logical1

    Quick Diesel Help (81' 720 SD22)

    Awesome, thanks man! I will go change fuel filters and grab some additive after I finish my dinner beer :angel:
  12. Logical1

    Quick Diesel Help (81' 720 SD22)

    Update: pulled thermostat and now both hoses are hot and water seems to circulate properly however continuing south I got to Olympia and it started loosing power and she cut out on me again... It is about 90' out and I need to fix my gauges and give this beast a whole checkup but getting to work is paramount (and will pay for all the fixes for this beauty) I pulled over to check all fluids again. Everything looked good... I'm not going to push her hard but at this rate I'm going to get to Eugene in about a week! on side note, the previous owner had been running biodiesel in her about half the time he said. I have now put a full tank of good ol' dinosaur diesel in her could this affect anything?
  13. So I picked up a nice 81' 720 Diesel last week. Everything seemed kosher, drove her around town for several days with no issues. Today I need to drive to Eugene for a job (400+ miles) and fighting my way through traffic she dies on me. I get her off the freeway and check everything out, plenty of oil, fuel, coolant... however I notice that the top radiator hose is very hot and the lower is not even warm. As for my temp gauge, someone had tried to steal the truck and the wiring is screwy... thus I don't trust the temp gauge being as most of the dash gauges don't work or are wrong. I wait a bit and then pull the radiator cap and start her up, runs smooth. However I don't see the normal turbulence in the radiator with the cap off that signals coolant cycling. I squeeze both hoses and coolant raises... both heater hoses are nice and hot. Main pulley tension is great and turning alt & water pump. I have never seen a water pump go so bad that it doesn't even push a little water through but that doesn't mean it isn't possible! I REALLY need to get to work and would love to get there in my 720 but short of ripping the entire coolant system apart I'm stumped. Any diesel guru's feel like saving my ass?
  14. Logical1

    R1 Carbs (lots of pics)

    So, I have a choice... I have mocked up several versions of the intake manifold hoping to make use of a stock KA intake cut up for the flange(free). Unfortunately my fabrication shop is 50 miles away from my dime, I have done my best to measure and devise a jig to build off of but without the car at the shop to work off of it has been somewhat of a best guess situation. I wanted to keep in mind trying to make the intake flow as level or downward and not have any upward angles or low points where fuel could pool up. I also wanted to try and get the float bowls as level as possible for best performance. With the R1's output angle this requires you to really rake the angle up and with the spread of the KA intake you need to angle all of the intake pipes inward to a much tighter pattern. I don't have a mandrel bender or any kind of casting gear so I'm stuck cutting straight pipe in multiple angles to make everything happen. My first over optimistic attempted I post a few pages back but upon trying that out on the car it was obviously to high for the hood. I did some of that math stuff and even measured a few more times and tried again: The float bowls are PERFECT!!! however, the carbs are still way to damn tall for the hood. I was hoping to not cut a hole in the hood and make a scoop, but because I'm using the KA intake (cut down) there is a upward pitch to where I can start attaching my piping and even cutting a sharp downward angle is not enough to keep the carbs low enough. I could have a blank intake flange laser/waterjet cut but I would have to start from scratch, run custom water piping (trouble) and it would cost more $$$. I tried reducing the angle of the carbs so they would sit more even but they are STILL to tall and the float bowls are more angled than I would like: So The choices are: 1. Cut a hole in the hood and make a scoop. (hoods are getting harder to find!) 2. Buy a flange and start over. ($$$+time and I miss my dime!) 3. Try it with angled float bowls and possible fuel pooling. (Meh...) 4. ???

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