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Logical1

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About Logical1

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 07/10/1980

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  • Website URL
    http://logical1.org

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Everett
  • Cars
    1970 510 L18
  • Interests
    Computers, Technical Theatre, High Maintenance Women, & Datsuns!
  • Occupation
    Assistant Technical Director

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  1. What year 720 4x4 is the best?

    1. datzenmike

      datzenmike

      They're all good. The '80 was the last year for the L20B so if you like L series get an '81. "81 and '82 are Z22 engines with a bit more torque. '83 and up have the largest Z24 gas engine and only came with 5 speeds. They all have the same transmissions, differentials and transfer cases so none are stronger than the others.. I like the look of the '85 grill so '85 for me. The ST option is a dress up truck with lots of comfort options like electric windows, sun roof.

  2. Time Left: 12 days and 8 hours

    • WANTED
    • USED

    just like the title, looking for a 4x4 oil pan out of a 720 . Doesn't have to be pretty or clean!

    $1.00

    Everett, Washington - US

  3. I have resurrected over a dozen 720's due to the quasi ECU or "brain" failing. I have not gotten into the details of what the brain actually is but from loose information it as a shitty relay system, I basically bypass the brain and directly wire the coils/Distributor. One of the casualties of a broken brain is the tachometer, just like the coils/distro, I just directly wire the tachometer up which is very easy as it has own plug in the back of the gauge cluster. Just like Mike said, black to ground, yellow-red to a acc power source and blue-black to the negative side of either coil. If you have not bypassed your brain yet, I strongly recommend doing so as it is just a matter of time before it goes bad
  4. Pretty much sums up this whole year to me: Fox News runs digitally altered images in coverage of Seattle’s protests, Capitol Hill Autonomous Zone
  5. I have owned 5 720's a diesel rwd, a 2.2l gas rwd, a 2.0 gas 4x4, a 2.4l gas rwd, and now a 2.4l 4x4. The diesel was one slow ass chugger but got great gas mileage and I loved her, top speed was 65 going downhill with a tailwind. the 2.2 rwd was a scooter and performed great for its age and a stock carb, top speed 80+ the 2.0l 4x4 was fairly tired when I got it and the carb was a joke, put a weber on it and got some more life out of it even it though it burned more oil than gas, top speed 70ish. My current daily is a 2.4l rwd with a FRESH rebuild,a weber, straight pipe, no emissions. If it had wings it would fly! top speed unknown... My new 4x4 is a project... Great trucks!
  6. Any difference in mid eighties 720 oil pans rwd vs 4x4? Z24...

    1. datzenmike

      datzenmike

      Yes indeed!!! 2wd were like any other truck oil pan deeper in the middle to allow steering cross link to pass across the front, more or less like the 520/521 and 620. Z series engine 4X4s had a differential hump in the way so it was offset to the right for clearance.  Note below that this is an L20B 4x4 oil pan and they were offset to the left side, but you get the idea.

       

      bXXCoJM.jpg

    2. Logical1

      Logical1

      Well fuck me, Have been prepping for a KA24DE (frontier rear sump) Swap into an 85' 720 4x4. However This pretty much derails me as all the shops I work at ( I am a event scenery fabricator) are closed do to Covid bullshit. Anybody interested in a frontier KA with under 40k on the clock, lol! 

  7. $200 for an aluminium intake flange cnc cut?  I did all the cad work and sent it to a local shop. Seems high...

    1. datzenmike

      datzenmike

      Intake flange or the entire intake???

    2. Logical1

      Logical1

      Just the flange I traced and rendered for a ka24de. I was going to weld up my own intake but I am looking into full fabbing prices of a custom intake now...

  8. 2001 Frontier ka24de oil pickup tube is over $100!?!?! wtf are they made of, unobtanium?

    1. alexg89
    2. datzenmike

      datzenmike

      I get $30 CDN for 2wd and 4wd.

    3. Logical1

      Logical1

      I checked rockauto first: $120, then the standard parts places online, napa ect even ebay and they were all over $100. Thanks to Alexg89, he sent me that link to one for $38. Still blown away by the price, it is galvanized steel.. basically a piece of bent conduit!

  9. Heya old friends! I have been planning a move to central america after living in the NW for most of my adult life. I am obsessively enamored with Datsuns during my tenure with automotive mechanics. I have brought dozens if not more datsuns back to life, including: several pl510's, 620's and if not a dozen 720's. I am by no means a master mechanic. That being said I specialize in re-wiring 720's to bypass the shit ECU and get them back on the road with little modifications and solid, lasting performance after. Also a solid welder/electrician/fabber. My question to the deep guru's here is: If you were going to tow a small travel trailer (13-16 feet, with electric brakes) a Ka24de swapped 720, would you use a 2wd model or a 4wd model? The obvious mechanical thought is: more things that move , the more that can break/fail. As for the terrain and unknowns of central america (yes I have traveled before) I would love the 4x4. However on that same note, I am not a rich man nor will I be so I am going to eliminate as much unknowns as possible for mechanical failure during prep for the journey. I only plan to tow my trailer to the destination and then park it and use my truck as a daily. Thank you for your thoughts!
  10. Single Weber 32/36 on a Ka24de? 

    1. datzenmike

      datzenmike

      Probably ok, slightly vanilla. The Z24 uses a 34/38 barrel carb. I would say get a weber 38/38 but don't care for the synchronous opening. Too performance oriented. If only it were progressive or vacuum secondary.

  11. Copy. Thanks Mike, Figured it was simple.
  12. Block is at TDC and the head has sat on the bench untouched. should still be in matched timing, is it just a try a get the sprocket into the links as close as possible till it fits onto the cam?
  13. Hey a friend of mine has a 81' a10 and was in the process of changing the head gasket on his z20. He let the project sit for a few months and just asked me for help. After taking a look at it, he has the head off and the timing chain wedged luckily, however he did not mark his timing chain to sprocket placement. Is there a trick to get the sprocket and chain aligned correctly without pulling the timing cover and starting from scratch? Seems like there should be and it is probably fairly obvious, been working 12's so I am braindead!
  14. Picked up a like new Z24 steel valve cover at the yard for $12 So stoked to use the rubber gasket over rtv!

  15. Hey all, So picked up a 84' 720 4x4 a few months ago for cheap. it barely ran at the time, but the price was unbeatable! I got her home went to work on her! She had no power, sticky brakes, bad alignment, FUBAR electrical and misc other issues. I tackled the engine first, found out it had the 2.0 mileage option engine with a 2.4 head, pulled the head off and found an obviously blown head gasket and copious amount of stop leak in the coolant passages. Figured out the previous owner had put the 2.2-2.4 head gasket on and tried to make it work with all that stop leak. The head was also beat to shit with cracked valves and score marks on the cam journals. I had a z22 sitting around so I pulled the head off it, the intake off the 2.4 head, hogged out the head ports on the 2.2 head to match the 2.4 intake, slapped a brand new weber on and put her back together. Ran amazingly better! however it was randomly not getting spark do to the previous owners wire hack. I have fully re-wired several other Datsuns with L-motors and KA swaps, However this is my first foray into the napz . I did a bunch of research via Ratsun and the net in general. Via a post about wiring a napz into 510 frame by Datzenmike on the realm, I found the minimum wiring to run the engine: Re: z24 ignition ?s how do i wire up a z24 in a 510 Postby datzenmike » 19 Apr 2011 12:52 E-Blue....to neg side of Ex coil. B-Black/white to positive side of intake coil. This is where it gets it's switched 12 volt source. C-White.....plugin for shutting off exhaust side plugs plugs I-Red....to negative side of intake coil. Based on this list of connections from the distributor, I wired it up accordingly (without using the white wire obviously because of the weber) and ran switched 12v power to the positive side of both coils and tied into the black/white wire to power the dizzy. Now because the harness is FUBAR I am only using my fresh new wiring and so the only wire going to the ignition besides the ones coming out of the dizzy and connecting to the coils, is the 12v switched power. Switched on power to the ignition and turned her over. HOLY MOLY! purred like a kitten on catnip! was, stoked and took her out for a drive. went about 20 miles and got back home, popped the hood, no hot wires, ran nice cool in the lower half of the temp gauge and didn't burn a drop of oil or coolant. However on a whim i touched the coils and they were quite warm, not BURNING hot, but WARM for sure. If I remember right non electronic or points coils will over heat if exposed to full 12v. Also, next to the coils tied into the original hacked harness was a little black plug that i looked up the part number and it turns out to be a Nissan ignition condenser. I thought condensers were only for points? Do I need to use the condenser inline somewhere? I figured the 84' nissan's had electronic ignition as they first started in the late 70's trucks. Anyway, any info would be helpfull and more pics and curious fixes to come!
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