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About Logical1

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  • Birthday 07/10/1980

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    1970 510 L18
  • Interests
    Computers, Technical Theatre, High Maintenance Women, & Datsuns!
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    Assistant Technical Director

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  1. Single Weber 32/36 on a Ka24de? 

    1. datzenmike


      Probably ok, slightly vanilla. The Z24 uses a 34/38 barrel carb. I would say get a weber 38/38 but don't care for the synchronous opening. Too performance oriented. If only it were progressive or vacuum secondary.

  2. Copy. Thanks Mike, Figured it was simple.
  3. Block is at TDC and the head has sat on the bench untouched. should still be in matched timing, is it just a try a get the sprocket into the links as close as possible till it fits onto the cam?
  4. Hey a friend of mine has a 81' a10 and was in the process of changing the head gasket on his z20. He let the project sit for a few months and just asked me for help. After taking a look at it, he has the head off and the timing chain wedged luckily, however he did not mark his timing chain to sprocket placement. Is there a trick to get the sprocket and chain aligned correctly without pulling the timing cover and starting from scratch? Seems like there should be and it is probably fairly obvious, been working 12's so I am braindead!
  5. Picked up a like new Z24 steel valve cover at the yard for $12 So stoked to use the rubber gasket over rtv!

  6. Hey all, So picked up a 84' 720 4x4 a few months ago for cheap. it barely ran at the time, but the price was unbeatable! I got her home went to work on her! She had no power, sticky brakes, bad alignment, FUBAR electrical and misc other issues. I tackled the engine first, found out it had the 2.0 mileage option engine with a 2.4 head, pulled the head off and found an obviously blown head gasket and copious amount of stop leak in the coolant passages. Figured out the previous owner had put the 2.2-2.4 head gasket on and tried to make it work with all that stop leak. The head was also beat to shit with cracked valves and score marks on the cam journals. I had a z22 sitting around so I pulled the head off it, the intake off the 2.4 head, hogged out the head ports on the 2.2 head to match the 2.4 intake, slapped a brand new weber on and put her back together. Ran amazingly better! however it was randomly not getting spark do to the previous owners wire hack. I have fully re-wired several other Datsuns with L-motors and KA swaps, However this is my first foray into the napz . I did a bunch of research via Ratsun and the net in general. Via a post about wiring a napz into 510 frame by Datzenmike on the realm, I found the minimum wiring to run the engine: Re: z24 ignition ?s how do i wire up a z24 in a 510 Postby datzenmike » 19 Apr 2011 12:52 E-Blue....to neg side of Ex coil. B-Black/white to positive side of intake coil. This is where it gets it's switched 12 volt source. C-White.....plugin for shutting off exhaust side plugs plugs I-Red....to negative side of intake coil. Based on this list of connections from the distributor, I wired it up accordingly (without using the white wire obviously because of the weber) and ran switched 12v power to the positive side of both coils and tied into the black/white wire to power the dizzy. Now because the harness is FUBAR I am only using my fresh new wiring and so the only wire going to the ignition besides the ones coming out of the dizzy and connecting to the coils, is the 12v switched power. Switched on power to the ignition and turned her over. HOLY MOLY! purred like a kitten on catnip! was, stoked and took her out for a drive. went about 20 miles and got back home, popped the hood, no hot wires, ran nice cool in the lower half of the temp gauge and didn't burn a drop of oil or coolant. However on a whim i touched the coils and they were quite warm, not BURNING hot, but WARM for sure. If I remember right non electronic or points coils will over heat if exposed to full 12v. Also, next to the coils tied into the original hacked harness was a little black plug that i looked up the part number and it turns out to be a Nissan ignition condenser. I thought condensers were only for points? Do I need to use the condenser inline somewhere? I figured the 84' nissan's had electronic ignition as they first started in the late 70's trucks. Anyway, any info would be helpfull and more pics and curious fixes to come!
  7. Quick question: are all napz head gaskets the same? I have a 84'mileage option 2.0 and need a new head gasket... ASAP!

    1. Logical1


      BTW Also putting a head off a 81' napz 2.2l on it if that makes any diff.

    2. mhub91


      2.2 and 2.4 are identical gaskets.


      unsure about Z20S/Z20E

  8. I am a decent carb tech, did my best on my 84' 720 4x4 carb, still sucked. slapped a new weber on, MY GOD ITS ALIVE!

    1. banzai510(hainz)


      sometimes they just plane wear out. new is ezer

  9. Anyone have a link to the old Datsun engine builder app? is it still up?

  10. I have a really nice bedliner on my 81' 720 diesel that just died and I would be willing to part with it but shipping to Hawaii is going to be prohibitively expensive. If you are die hard interested I can send you pics, Pm me.
  11. Been a while Ratto's! I picked up a 81' 720 Diesel with the SD22 about 2 years ago. It was a smokey slow bitch but I loved her dearly. I commute crazy miles for work and just after I hit 200k on the odometer she started knocking really badly. (yes I know its a diesel & I kept fresh oil and water in it) It lost about half its power, was a bitch to start and was smoking like a chimney, Checked the oil and water and neither had any contamination. It wasn't burning oil that much faster that it had been over the years and not over heating. This led me to think the rings had failed and it just wasn't reaching the compression it needed. I don't think its the head gasket but I ordered one anyway (hasn't arrived yet). From my research the 81 SD22 has 3 rings on the pistons and I haven't been able to find a 3 ring kit. However Even If I could I don't have the time to do a full rebuild right now. That being said I loved the diesel for the mileage even though it was the slowest beast ever. I wouldn't mind re-building the diesel in the future...However I need to get this truck back on the road asap, so some questions: 1. Does a L-Series bolt into the 720? not looking to use the diesel trans, wondering if I can pick up a L-series engine/tranny and drop it in. (motor mounts?) 2. If a L-series bolts up, is there a specific oil pan for the fit? the sd22 has a raised part in the middle of the pan for the crossmember. 3. If the L-series bolts up , is there a tranny that doesn't require driveline alteration? 4. I know the napz motors are normally in these trucks, Not a huge fan of the napz series. is there any other motors that bolt in? 5. Is it worth it to hold onto the SD22 and rebuild it? seems like parts are becoming unobtanium these days. I'm looking for the easiest, cheapest, fastest route to a work truck. Should I try and resurrect the 720 or just find a cheap 620 and start back into my comfort zone of Gasoline and older models ;)
  12. Cant find Rings for SD22, Sad Datto Diesel :(

    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. nismo dr

      nismo dr

      they are located at the top of the piston

    3. Doctor510
    4. datsunaholic




      Nissan Part # 12033-37500. Standard bore (12036-37500 is 0.5mm over). Industrial supply places seem to have them, pretty pricey.


  13. getting some alum ka24de intake flanges cut, anyone else interested?

  14. Thanks for the epic deal on the flywheel and clutch!...You know who you are :)

  15. Thoughts on the cheaper engine to re-build (mechanically only) these days? - 4cyl L series or KA24DE?

    1. Busta Nut

      Busta Nut

      L is cheaper....

    2. r0p0doe


      I wanna say a Ka but he's probably right

    3. Uber Deaf One

      Uber Deaf One

      My entire KA rebuild (including cost of engine) cost me $800-900.

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