Jump to content

datzenmike

User Administrator
  • Content Count

    86,201
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    392

datzenmike last won the day on January 10

datzenmike had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

37,248 Excellent

About datzenmike

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Vancouver Island
  • Cars
    '76 710. prevoius... '78 620, '71 521, '68 510, new '76 B-210 '74 710 sedan
  • Interests
    Datsuns, disinterested in f/b, tweets, texting, i phones, TV, EFI and Nissan after '96
  • Occupation
    I get paid to walk around in rubber and carry a machete.

Recent Profile Visitors

120,588 profile views
  1. datzenmike

    Weber Woes

    There's cam timing and there's ignition timing and in no way are they inter connected. #2 hole is a starting point, where the factory set it and will get you going. The actual check is to set TDC and look to be sure. If there is wear on the sprockets and chain or if the head was milled to flatten it the cam timing may need adjusting to the #3 hole. Again only way to know is to look at it. Ignition timing has 3 components. There's the initial timing, set with a timing light, there's vacuum advance above idle and totally related to engine load and there's mechanical advance which is RPM dependent and also above idle. Mechanical and vacuum advance should not exist at idle but if your idle is too high they may be present and this makes setting the initial advance a waste of time.
  2. Get another push on connector and crimp it on. The old one may have over heated and lost it's temper. Did you check the start voltage. Cause it it's low, a new connector, while a good idea, won't fix the problem.
  3. Remember when OJ walked out of the courtroom a free man? Well this is how it feels right now. Swallowing a bitter pill that you shouldn't have to.
  4. Ah got cha. I've seen this before too. Beware counterfeit parts of brand name. If it too cheap to believe...it might be. NGK plugs on Amazon is one. There's a You-tube showing how to tell the difference. Not true with other stuff.
  5. Well check that the choke is fully off first. Costs nothing and eliminates it. There is an idle speed adjusting screw on the carburetor. Turn it down. Throttle cable may be badly set and not allowing the throttle to close. Loosen the clamp and see if the idle drops.
  6. Ask yourself how much bother will it be to replace this part because you saved a few dollars. Will the time to time to fix it, time to go order or get the new part add up to more than what you saved? Worse, will you have to take the engine, transmission out to get at the failed part? Like a $4 pilot bushing that you could have easily changed when the engine was out last summer but you didn't. If it's hard to get at or a lot of trouble to get at to replace or if it's failure could leave you without a ride for days or weeks, a quality part even if expensive is probably a good investment. A tail light, not so much.
  7. I assume you have an electric choke? not a manual pull choke?? First warm it up then look at the choke flap on the top. It should be all the way open. If it stays on or part closed, it may be engaging the fast idle.
  8. Parking under a tree is like running around a golf course waving your 9 iron over your head in a thunder storm.
  9. ECC in open loop defaults to a 'limp home' mode. Because it's possible that the mixture could range all the way to extremely lean, the ECU defaults to an over rich condition. This won't hurt the engine (in the short term) and is preferable to over lean. It's assumed the owner will notice this and remedy it right away. A properly functioning spark plug will get hot enough to self clean. If the #2 intake is sooty (probably from open loop operation over rich) maybe it isn't firing. Just clean it and try it. Or replace. But confirm the spark is getting to it. Plugs must be BPR6ES intake side and BPR5ES on the exhaust.
  10. Never heard of a CA24. CA20E was it. It's also a NAPS engine
  11. datzenmike

    Weber Woes

    Here's the thing. Dual plugs means two ignition points in the combustion chamber. This is turn shortens how long it takes to burn all the fuel and air. With such a short burn time you must 'light the fire' later and much closer to TDC so that the expanding hot gasses can efficiently push down on the piston. Usually about 17degrees after TDC. If one side set of plugs are not firing the burn time is longer and you have to advance the spark timing so you get that sweet spot at 17 degrees after TDC. Typically 12 degrees would fix this. You said the valve lash setting was completed.... so maybe the exhaust side coil isn't firing either. Two things will cause this. 1/ the first fuse on the far left side of the fuse box is blown. It's a dedicated 10amp fuse that powers the exhaust coil 2/ there is a built in system that shuts off the exhaust side coil under load. It may have some problem and it remains off. Look at the wire harness to the distributor. There should be three wires taped in it's own harness and a forth white or light gray wire with it's own connector. Unplug and the distributor should fire all coils all the time.
  12. Early ones have high break away torque LSDs but later ones are only 28 pounds for soccer moms that don't like the tires hopping and chirping when they back out of the parking stalls.
  13. Hainz can you weigh it for me.
  14. datzenmike

    510 ecoboost

    James what sizw master with this?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.