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datzenmike last won the day on October 21

datzenmike had the most liked content!

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About datzenmike

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Vancouver Island
  • Cars
    '76 710. prevoius... '78 620, '71 521, '68 510, new '76 B-210 '74 710 sedan
  • Interests
    Datsuns, disinterested in f/b, tweets, texting, i phones, TV, EFI and Nissan after '96
  • Occupation
    I get paid to walk around in rubber and carry a machete.

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  1. datzenmike

    520 front overriders

  2. datzenmike

    BrothersGarage - 1971 521

    Projector for the win. LED od HID them..... and they look better. Talk about bumper over riders!!!!!
  3. datzenmike

    Bigger carbs and timing chain parts

    The valve lash must be checked with a feeler gauge. It must be set 0.010" intake and 0.012" exhaust on a HOT engine. You can't tell by just looking. Turning the engine won't tell you much either. Turn clockwise. Driver's side is the tension side and will be tight. All slack will be on the passenger side. It's normal to have some slack on the passenger side. A certain amount of chain wear or stretch will cause the cam to become retarded and there is some loss of power. This can be checked easily enough and the sprocket moved to compensate. Once the wear or stretch has exceeded the available adjustment range, the chain and sprockets must be replaced.
  4. datzenmike

    BrothersGarage - 1971 521

    😄 I ass-umed.
  5. datzenmike

    alternator swap problem

    This is the 620??? You will have to remove the choke heater relay, or disconnect it as it will stay on all the time now. That's what you hear clicking. Look on the back of the carb for the Blue choke heater wire and the Red idle cut solenoid wire. They may have a black sheath protecting them. With the choke heater relay disconnected, the choke now needs another source of switched power to work it. Connect the Blue wire to the Red idle cut wire. The idle cut is turned on and off by the ignition switch so now it won't drain your battery. Will this fix the charging problem? Might.... but it will stop the battery going dead over the weekend.
  6. datzenmike

    A 521 in Massachusetts

    The FS5W71B came on the L series 4 and 6 cylinder, the Z series, the SD (diesel) and the CA series through '86.5. Pardon the pun but in all cases the only real difference is the front case which has the engine bolt pattern. You can put a 4 or 5 speed L series front case on any of them to convert them for L series use. The FS5W71B came with 3 distinct gear ratio sets relative to each other that are wide, mid and close ratio. The FS5W71B transmission is 31.5" long with the exception of the Z series which may also come in 26" length. If you have a 521, 510, 710, A10 or S10 that came with a stock 26" 4 speed the 720 26" 5 speed with an L series front case would save you shortening your driveshaft. The 5 speed from a 4x4 720 will not have provision for a speedometer drive. This can't be altered. Using the GPS on your phone is bull shit, do it right on a vintage 521. All FS5W71B from '85 through 86.5 have a larger 62mm counter bearing that will not fit the 56mm hole in L series front case. Just pull the 62mm bearing off and replace with the proper 56mm bearing and good to go. In this case use the L series cover plate that has the corresponding 56mm cavity in it. Possibly the 1st/2nd shift rod in the '85 and up transmission my be 16mm wide rather than 14mm wide hole in the L series front case. Just drill it out. 5/8" is just 0.005" smaller than needed but will probably work. The other shift rods are the same.
  7. datzenmike

    How to remove 71B striking lever lock pin

    Yes, exactly like a bike pedal.
  8. datzenmike

    Canby 2019 can't wait

    That stuff tastes like shit. ... and doesn't work on non teens
  9. datzenmike

    Air shocks

    By your description, they will fit the truck. As for 'will they work', the shock may be firmer or softer and depends on what vehicle they were intended, the lift is how much air you put in them so that will work.
  10. datzenmike

    BrothersGarage - 1971 521

    I love it! Z24 power!!!! Get those factory bumperettes back on there... right now. People have killed to have them on their trucks.
  11. datzenmike

    hitachi carb fuel flow on / off valve ?

    I can guess what relay you mean but why are you looking for it? There's no need to solder this relay unless it's not working. I think only the later Z24 engines used it not the Z22..
  12. datzenmike

    Clutch Damper Options

    Oil dripping out between engine and transmission? Probably the oil pan or rear seal leaking, so for the short term just keep the engine oil topped up. A leaking rear seal is not likely to get on your clutch. Its much easier for oil from a leaking seal on the transmission to migrate to the front and get on the clutch diaphragm fingers. If you suspect the transmission is leaking then it's imperative to check the oil level. There's no dip stick like the engine and if it gets low or dry, good-bye transmission. Figure out which one is leaking. There will be a fill bung (with square hole) about half way up the driver's side that takes a 1/2 ratchet or breaker bar. If you reach inside with your little finger you should be able to dip it into the oil. If low fill it with GL-4 80w90, NOT GL-5. Keep track of how much you add. It holds two liters or 2 US qts. If just a cup, check it much later. If more it might be leaking so check more often. If you find you are always topping it up then it probably is leaking. Petroleum (oil, gas or greases) will soften and dissolve rubber so keep it off the slave and clutch arm boots. Brake fluid is not petroleum based.
  13. datzenmike

    alternator swap problem

    This, above... ... and trhere's a 50/50 chance the alternator is shit.
  14. datzenmike

    Bigger carbs and timing chain parts

    This will depend on if you know for sure it's the chain and not the first thing you can think of. The chain can stretch and Nissan provided an adjustment to compensate for this. Only when the adjustment fails to correct for stretch is it worth replacing the timing components. Otherwise it's like changing your brake shoes when only 1/2 worn down. What oil are you using? What filter and when was it changed last? I wouldn't run anything below 10w30. Select something that is good down to about freezing. I'm running 15w40. Too thin oil will lower your pump pressure at idle and lower speeds. Have you set the valve lash properly on a hot engine? Loose clearances will make noise. Is your timing at 12 degrees BTDC? Take the valve cover off and look down the tension side where the front thermostat housing bolt enters the timing chain area. If it's been removed, a wrong length bolt might have been substituted and it's rubbing the chain. Look at the guides. Is the plastic coating the chain rubs against worn off or missing? If you just have to replace the chain and tensioner, there's no sense putting them on old sprockets and worn chain guides. Do everything, including the front crank seal, and expect to pay near $100 for quality Made In Japan parts. The tensioner has a fairly strong spring and is a bitch to hold in while installing the chain. I once worked out just how much the oil pressure pushes against the chain. I measured the diameter on the tensioner plunger worked out the area and at 55 PSI it exerts only 7-8 pounds. At idle half or less this amount. The tops of the tensioners (at least the Z series do) have an oil jet so it's never going to get to 55 PSI inside.
  15. datzenmike

    Disc Brake Conversion on 71 521

    It's all info, some of it actually on topic. The banter is mostly obvious.

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