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datzenmike

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datzenmike last won the day on October 6

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About datzenmike

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Vancouver Island
  • Cars
    '76 710. prevoius... '78 620, '71 521, '68 510, new '76 B-210 '74 710 sedan
  • Interests
    Datsuns, disinterested in f/b, tweets, texting, i phones, TV, EFI and Nissan after '96
  • Occupation
    I get paid to walk around in rubber and carry a machete.

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  1. datzenmike

    Bent valve?

    Set accurately to TDC first. Drain the cooling system and remove the hoses from the timing cover and the thermostat housing. This is preferable to twisting the thin pipes on the rad and fucking them up. Remove the rad so you don't slip and punch a ratchet through it. Loosen the alternator adjustment strap and take the fan belt off. Remove the distributor cap and wires and hang over the valve cover out of the way so it won't get broken. The distributor and oil pump have to come out. Expect the drive spindle to drop out with it. Expect a 1/8 cup of oil to drip and have rags ready. Water pump has to come off. Crankshaft pulley has to come off. The 10mm oil pan bolts across the front and several down the sides thread up into the timing cover and have to come out There are two10mm bolts on the lead at the front corners that thread down into the timing cover than have to come out. Now you can start removing the bolts that hold the timing cover to the block. Don't overlook the one that is behind the oil pump. If not sure take lots of pictures.
  2. Sweet little 1.8 good on gas about 132 hp and has the N.A.P.S. anti pollution system.
  3. datzenmike

    1976 fuel tank

    Apparently they hold the same volume 45 Liters or 11 7/8 US gal. through December '77 build dates... that's about half way through the '78 model year then there were changes. I know the '75 and up for sure had a return line from the carburetor. The '73 wouldn't have this. In operation fuel from the pump is pushed to the carburetor and back to the fuel tank. A very small restriction is in the return line so that some pressure will build or else the fuel would simply take the easiest path back to the tank. The point is to force a small recirculation of cooler fuel past the carburetor to prevent vapor lock in hot weather and easier restarts during heat soaks after a short stop. You can run without the return by sealing the hose securely. I can't promise that it will run that well in extremely hot weather. The L20Bs tended to run a lot hotter.
  4. Take the 5 bolts out and strike the clutch arm pivot ball to dislodge the cover. That nose will snap it you hit it. You can clean and use a thin smear of RTV to seal it. You don't want that shit squishing inside and into the two bearings. The front and rear seals are about $5 each. Change them, they are hard to replace once the transmission is back in. Be sure to oil or grease them so they don't start up dry. Definitely change the rear crankshaft seal while the flywheel is off. Oil it so it doesn't start up dry. Check the oil pan gasket. Replace the valve cover gasket... that should do it. Have a look at the pilot bushing. They are only >$5. Split the old one (very soft powdered bronze) with a screwdriver blade in 3 places. Poke the pieces inwards and remove. yes there are several ways to do it hydraulically with grease or even pack with bread or a puller but I have yet to see it done in less than a minute and no tools or mess made. Do NOT oil or grease the new one, it will only attract abrasive clutch dust, they are permanently lubricated. Be sure to use some lithium grease on the ends of the clutch slave push rod, the pivot ball, the ends of the clutch arm where it clips onto the release bearing collar and a thin smear on the transmission spline. Clean the release bearing collar and fill the small cavity inside with grease. ALWAYS replace the release bearing with a new one.
  5. datzenmike

    Bent valve?

    You mean these bumps on the L20B cam? It's better to pay $129 than cheap out on this very hard to get at and replace part. This sounds about right. There will be two plastic covered chain guides in the kit When installing, shove the tensioner side as far towards the driver's side as you can then tighten. It'll be in Hainz's video.
  6. datzenmike

    Wheel rings

    Available only on 2wd all year DX and GL models.
  7. Kid in school had a 348 with a six pack in a '61 Impala. The things you never forget.
  8. datzenmike

    Bent valve?

    Probably mold or casting revision number. In order to cast heads in the proper numbers and fast enough there were probably dozens if not hundreds of molds made (that might be mold #72?) and used at the foundry. There would have to be a way to identify them if it was found later there was a problem with one. Also during the run of L series engines there may have been a revision, maybe some added thickness, port larger or smaller and this had to be able to be identified.
  9. datzenmike

    My 720 Project.

    Yes I would rather the EFI but carburetors are easier to troubleshoot/understand/sound better/look cooler and you can say "I did it myself". All you need is an L or Z series oil pump/distributor drive spindle and L series distributor... points or matchbox but matchbox is best to replace the CAS, crank angle sensor). You could even use what's in the Z24 and only use four of the plug leads. Make or buy an intake for the carburetors OR get the D-21 KA intake and make a flat adapter plate and mount a Weber downdraft. So basically electrical or mechanical skills.
  10. Only a J series 4 speed will work for this if swapping it complete. Best bet is to swap the rear case. The '70-'72 PL521, '68 -72 510 (wagon or sedan) will fit. Other F4W63 transmissions that should work for this part are the '73-'77 710 and the '78-'80 A10 HL510. The 610 is too long
  11. datzenmike

    My 720 Project.

    If R-1 carburetors you'll be making your own intake and the engine EFI harness is not needed. You'll need an L20B distributor and the 720 is already wired for that and the alternator, the oil pressure sender, temp sender etc.... you just have to connect it to the KA.
  12. Sounds good. Next is a compression check. I'm hoping that the exhaust valves are not damaged.
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