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datzenmike last won the day on March 21

datzenmike had the most liked content!

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About datzenmike

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  • Birthday 04/23/1998

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  • Location
    Vancouver Island
  • Cars
    '76 710. prevoius... '78 620, '71 521, '68 510, new '76 B-210 '74 710 sedan
  • Interests
    Datsuns, disinterested in f/b, tweets, texting, i phones, TV, EFI and Nissan after '96
  • Occupation
    I get paid to walk around in rubber and carry a machete.

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  1. I would keep the phenolic? insulator if at all possible. Nissan thought it was needed for the stock carb although the Weber may not, I just don't know. If making gaskets get extra thick material. Don't forget to use Loc-Tite on the adapter studs.
  2. Take the little rubber cover plug off the middle and turn the screw anti clockwise to reduce the sensitivity of the BCDD. The BCDD is turned on by high intake vacuum when decelerating. Normally the mixture goes so lean that is doesn't burn. The BCDD is a little mini carburetor within a carburetor that opens to supply gas and air during this time. When vacuum returns to normal is it supposed to shut off but sometimes it doesn't and you have a slight runaway idle. If this fixes the problem then this was the problem.
  3. The bright links are only for the initial placement of the chain and sprockets. As soon as the engine is started the bright links become random and line up maybe every 20 turns so don't go by that. Set TDC exactly* and only by turning clockwise. If you over shoot don't just back up, but back up 1/4 turn and try again even if it takes a dozen tries. *This is absolutely critical so use the notch on the crank pulley and the timing scale for ignition. There is no TDC mark on the Z series head for cam sprocket checking so what I do is look through the top hole in the sprocket and directly between the two rocker arm towers for a small vertical casting mark... The back of your cam sprocket should have a V or U notch in it. Confirm that the V is below or perhaps just slightly to the right of the line and NOT to the left of it. Like below...
  4. The screech sound was only when the clutch pedal was down to the floor? This could be a dry release bearing
  5. OK, so here is what should happen when starting the engine cold. If you start with a cold engine, you step on the gas peddle in preparation to starting. This does two things. It squirts raw fuel into the intake from the accelerator pump, and it releases the choke which had cooled and reset itself. When the choke is released and closes by stepping on the peddle it also releases the fast idle cam which drops down between the throttle speed adjustment and it's stop. This holds the throttle open slightly and raises the engine speed during warm up, usually 5-10 min. depending how cold it is. While warming, the choke relaxes and slowly opens fully and at this point if you again step lightly on the gas the fast idle cam pulls up out of the way and the throttle can now close on it's warm idle speed stop and the engine idles normally. Did you remove or adjust the BCDD? This thing... Or that white set screw the the nut on it? BTW there's nothing wrong with reusing old gaskets if not torn. None of them seal in gas just vapors.
  6. CS130 is that the output 30? Nissan are labeled this way like LR160 for a 60 amp.
  7. Well if you close your eyes you will be driving an Evo basically. To keep the illusion of a 510 try to keep it as 510 as possible including the dash. A RHD and weird dash will call too much attention to it is all. But hey, it's what ever you like and will be great.
  8. Some funny thinks happen in the transition from stopped.... to motion, in either direction. The chassis will absorb a lot of torque in first and reverse because of the transmission ratios that you don't get in higher gears. Weight transfers to the rear and the front lifts and the rear lowers. Reverse is opposite. Drive shaft angles change. The clutch changes from slipping to gripping. Two things come to mind.... The clutch disc has a ring of coil springs that compress and release energy during engagement. One side connects to the center and the other the disc itself. If damaged, it can cause harsh engagement called 'judder'. The other is the driveshaft. Wrapped around the stationery part surrounding the carrier bearing is a rubber surround. These always rot away over time and without this support the driveshaft is unstable under load and will wobble around. Others are: loose or damaged engine and/or transmission mount rubber isolaters or their mounting bolts. Removed leaves* to lower the body or broken leaves in the spring pack, loose U bolts holding them on. A lowered vehicle with uncorrected and poor drive line angles. Bad shock absorbers, worn out or leaking. *a very bad idea.
  9. Working my way towards that. It's the rubber surround that goes bad on the carrier not the bearing. Only bad confirmed bearing was metalmonkey's 620. Without the rubber support the driveshaft will flop around. But more of the shudder or thump than rattle.
  10. First and reverse are high torque gears. Would you say it shudders? Rattle implies something lose moving around.
  11. I didn't know there were two stopper pins. On the engine side probably between the two reservoirs, on the side is another stopper pin. Have a look...
  12. Spent way over an hour power washing the mold off but looks better. Did under the hood and each time it looks a bit cleaner. Tomorrow I'll take the wipers off their pivots and take the plenum cover off and clean out all the crap that must be in there. Two tires needed a bit of air. If really nice I'll start polishing the mags. Put battery charger on. My rear view fell off. Clean and vacuum the inside and empty out... OH THAT'S where my ratchet went!!!. Put pass side carpet back on the floor.
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