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datzenmike last won the day on December 8

datzenmike had the most liked content!

About datzenmike

  • Birthday 04/23/1998

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Vancouver Island
  • Cars
    '76 710. prevoius... '78 620, '71 521, '68 510, new '76 B-210 '74 710 sedan
  • Interests
    Datsuns, disinterested in f/b, tweets, texting, i phones, TV, EFI and Nissan after '96
  • Occupation
    I help others get and keep their Datsuns on the road. If Ratsun was a Datsun I'd be the grease

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  1. Get a name brand Dexron ATF. It's in the factory service manual FSM... anything else, like a Haynes isn't really a manual. Try to fine a 1980 Nissan published FSM on line. It's the bible on your 720. Should be replaced along with the filter every 30,000 miles or sooner if over heated. Never tow with an automatic. You need about 6 US quarts. Drain and replace the filter. Clean the pan and magnetic drain plug. Install pan with new gasket and fill to the full line on the dip stick. Remove the return line at the transmission and direct into a container. Start engine and idle till about one quart is expelled and shut off. Add a fresh quart to the fill tube to top up the transmission. Repeat this to rinse out the fluid trapped in the torque converter and coolant lines till the new bright clear fluid comes out. Expect at least 2 or three extra quarts. You'll never get all the old oil out, best you can do is get most of it.
  2. Somehow it's just not low enough. They're politicians for god's sake.
  3. Now you're just insulting dumb people. Don't you have a 3rd option? Something a little lower. Like the dopey duo?
  4. No it connects to the stock air filter. Under certain conditions flow is reversed and the fumes are directed inside the air filter where they are sucked down through the carburetor and burned. I know the little blue filters are very trendy and cute, but the fumes just empty into the engine compartment and enter the cabin. Also any oil just drips off it onto the engine. Trust the original design.
  5. Generic but has correct number of terminals. It's not the wrong one. So where are the sparks coming out of the bottom????
  6. Oil should be selected based on the lowest expected temperature till the next change. From 0F and up 10w30 is fine. If never below 20F any 20w oil will do. Never run a 5w or 10w oil above 60F. I run only in the summer with temperatures above 60F so 15w40 works well for me. New oil has reduced their ZDDP levels to about half what they used to be when our Datsuns were new. Diesel oils are the cheapest easiest way to maintain the correct ZDDP levels and is universally available. There are others but I use Shell Rotella T4. Synthetic is too expensive for protection you will NEVER need. In my experience it leaks out of old engine seals. If the synthetic lasts 12K between changes you will probably have added 4 quarts in that time to keep topped up, so what have you really saved?
  7. It's hard for the synchros to squeeze the cold thick oil out of the way for engagement. I think you'll find the synthetic really improves down shifting. I don't down shift coming to a stop using engine compression, I just slip out of gear once slow enough and let the clutch up. This lessens the wear on the synchros and the release bearing. Brake pads and shoes are way cheaper and easier to change than clutch discs and release bearings. I start in neutral, clutch up to lessen the wear on the crankshaft thrust bearings and also the release bearing. Of course there are times that conditions change, like a light turning green, or where you might need to accelerate and are in too high a gear and a quick down gear is necessary but overall brakes are for slowing down not down shifting.
  8. As far as L and Z series, only the L16 and the Z22E (200sx) engines have pistons that extend above the deck.
  9. Keep the PCV valve. Although technically an anti pollution device it's biggest advantage is extending engine life. It draws filtered air through the crankcase removing water and combustion vapors that would condense over night diluting and contaminating the engine oil. It has no effect on running, does so much for your engine, and asks nothing in return. Besides, it's already there and working so you don't have to do anything but leave the little guy alone.
  10. That's the harness for the reverse lights and the interlock switch that only allows the starter to work in PARK and NEUTRAL positions for the automatic transmission. Tie it up so it doesn't get ripped off and leave you wondering why you can't start the truck. The wire with the two plastic ends is the fusible link that protects the power cable to the ignition switch and the fuse box. The 'Green' highlighted wire isn't stock. The output from the alternator simply goes into the engine harness and would normally be connected to the far side of that fusible link. As it is now, that wire is not protected by the fusible link.
  11. Yesterday evening it peaked in soreness, seems a lot less this morning. Of the two previous and the one flu shot this was the most sore though nothing really noteworthy. jbird at my age I take a B12 supplement as the elderly are always deficient, vitamin C and a multi vitamin just to fill in any cracks in my diet. It likely contains some D but I am outdoors a minimum 3 hours a day walking and more so in good weather. The down side is it can be very cloudy here in the winter.
  12. Does the new module say E12-80? Or E12-93
  13. Then it would seem that the 'new' matchbox is bad if it ran fine before. Cheapest good fix is an HEI module from a older GM car or truck. As little as $10-$25 or if in a wrecking yard they fit perfectly into back pocket... Ignore the 'Non Matchbox' and the 1.6 ohm coil. You need a 0.8 to 1.0 ohm EI coil (you probably have one) Should say 12v on it. HEI must be well grounded. If fails to spark reverse the W and the G.
  14. Why did you replace the matchbox???? What was it doing or not doing? If this didn't change anything it's probably not the matchbox. The matchbox is grounded to the distributor case by the two mounting screws. The distributor is grounded through the two mounting bolts. It's cheaper and easier to tighten them. This is what you have? Not all matchbox EIs have a dedicated ground. Here it's near the forefinger. Brass lug with screw through it.
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