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Icehouse

How to wire a KA, CA, SR, and VG into anything

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UNDER CONSTRUCTION:

First of all, here are the FSMs


NEW


CAN/AM POWER PRODUCTS easy wiring boxes

We've finally done it! Just had to post some pics up. More to come later.


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I'm going to update this thread and have a diagram for each engine, that way it will make things much simpler for you guys. I'm not sure when they will all be done so bare with me. I've had quite a few emails for the VG out of an S12, so that is going to be the first update.


With help from a few guys on the realm and a lot more research I think I've found the best way to wire a few different Nissan engines into anything, not just Datsuns. These diagrams keep the engine wiring separate from the chassis harness, which I like because it can be removed at any time without too much work. It also keeps added power from going through the factory ignition switch, which can get VERY hot if overloaded, don't ask me how I know http://community.ratsun.net/public/style_emoticons/#EMO_DIR#/smile.gif, just go slow and triple check everything. I've wired countless different Nissan EFI systems and never blown out an ECU. That's because I take my time and make sure every wire is accounted for. Never, I mean never add power to an unknown wire, or ground an unknown wire. Find a diagram of your engine if needed. Oh, and it never hurts to have too many fuses. http://community.ratsun.net/public/style_emoticons/#EMO_DIR#/biggrin.gif

Below are just a few things you should know before starting your EFI wiring:

All Nissan EFI harnesses are, for the most part, self contained--Usually only splitting into the chassis harness for power, switched power, a few different signals, and the idiot lights. Nothing too difficult to understand and recreate. Over the years of messing with other people's swaps, I have seen countless different ways to make the stock EFI work. I personally do it this way, and understand it can be done with less relays and fuses. IMO they are all necessary and important for various reasons. Shit, you could twist a few wires together and jam them under the battery cable every time you wanted to drive your car and it would work. But it wouldn't be right!

One question I get a lot is, "what can I remove from the stock engine to clean it up?" Well I remove all the EGR, mainly because it's usually broken http://community.ratsun.net/public/style_emoticons/#EMO_DIR#/smile.gif but as for any cold start/idle control items, I leave them on the engine. When I installed the KA in my 620, I removed all 3 of Nissan's cold start/idle circuits because the dudes on the BB list said they did and the car ran fine. I'm a man of science so I thought it would be a fun experiment. Well maybe it's fine in California, but up here in Washington it's not worth it. My truck will start and run decent but I like my Datsuns to run like new cars not just slightly better than a carburetor....



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The S12 is not my favorite harness to work with. Nissan incorporated some of the harness with the chassis harness and also changed some of the colors of the wires after going through a plug... I will include a link to a scan that Chris made after getting his approval.


Every harness should be completely stripped down, that way wires can be shortened and lengthened to fit your application. Unneeded wires can be removed, and the harness can be made to look like it fits your car. If there is one thing I hate, it's scary looking wiring. There should be NO floating wiring, strain reliefs should be used, and MOST of all, there should be grommets every time a harness goes though any sort of metal, AKA a firewall! 680 cold cranking amps cooks wires really fast; always use fuses or a breaker as close to the battery as possible.


Every thing about the VG diagram is pretty straight-forward, except the brown sensor wire in the drawing. It powers a few needed components like the fast idle solenoid, but also powers the EGT solenoid which isn't needed. Cutting open the harness will allow you to remove unneeded wires that are tapped onto this wire. This wire never goes to the ECU so it has no pin number.

If anyone local is going to do the S12 VG, let me knowl I will come help and get some pictures to make this a bit easier.

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The S14 harnesses are also not my favorite, for more than one reason. First off, the are decoy wires. Like TWO black with pink wires coming off the ECU, which just makes things a little more tedious. Then Nissan decided to use spray phone to seal the firewall grommet, aka a bitch to remove. Last but not least it was ton's of extra plugs that need to be removed, stuff like the wiper motor wires....






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I still have the old faithful diagram posted, once I get all the engines done it will be deleted but I can't bare to do it just yet.



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All but 3 of these connections are made at the 2 or 3 plugs (depending on the engine harness) there are 3 connections made at the ecu tach ground and starter signal. I will post KA-510's car as an example.

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Nice Jeff, I thought it was more involved than that! What size/type of relays do I need?

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On Dillons car I used the Bosh headlight style relays the give you 2 87's which is nice for the last relay down in the diagram, you still need to put 2 leads into one connector but its better than 4 into one or a bus bar. The single cam be 1 for 1. My brain is starting to overheat, taking all the engine into consideration gets tricky :D

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now I just need an easy way to make a CA into a rear sump oil pan.

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Thanks Naz :) A dude on the realm by the name 510-trevor took me and another dudes diagram and put them togather.... well kinda.... I redid them the way I thought it should be but left some the same. I tried to show how the different s13 engines have very similar wiring. I do think we should do a relay board though :D

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That's alot simpler than I thought it would be. Nice work :D

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so icehouse do you have a diagram for that speed sensor? I would be nice to figure out which lead is hot and which is the pulse, then I can check it with the scope.

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I will bring over the disk with all the wiring diagrams on it this week.

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So should I order the parts for 2 kits to build up the relay boards? I will need the parts to take measurements off, to layout the board since the info is a little slim on manufacturers website.. I guess we should also aim for a single sided board so we can more easily build them ourselves for now? Also if your interested I have catalogue that is closing out 90 Amp Manual Reset Circuit Breakers for 12V use. it's $8.88 which could work for a master fuse but no need to buy replacement fuses, also it's waterproof so no problems with a engine compartment.

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I say do it :D I will come over and help to :D what day?

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Nice!!

 

I wired Franks car tonight... Dam I had a hard time getting the car to have spark.... turned out I had one of the S-AFC wires wrong... :( Well my plan was to wire up the ECU run it, then do the S-AFC run it, turbo timer... and Wide ban.... I'm happy it ran, I hope it will be ready for Canby.

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have you guys considered taking core harnesses in, re-working them for KA use (i'm wanting to go L20b to KA24DE...with a turbo...) then shipping them back? Could me a good money maker for you guys. Being the electrical idiot that i am, i know i would pay to go "plug and play". Good write up!

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not many people will pay. It could make some money but would be more of a favor for those that have extra time on their hands.

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Dude its SUPER simple, you can do it!! we are here to help, take lots of pics and we will walk you through it. 8 wires and your done...

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If I can do it, you can do it. The hardest part of it is getting used to how the ECU grounds everything instead of using power through the relays. That really threw me off!

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"old coil wire

use a test light to make sure there is power during cranking"

 

at least that's what it looks like to me...

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so i only need 8 wires to make it run with stock ECU?

im just guessing...engine codes for missing plugs? like emission, lets say abs, etc etc...

 

i just got a KA 95 and planning to install it the most basic to make it run ...but im worried about missing codes or faulty readings

for the missing plugs avoided... im getting worried to much huh??

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Only 8 wires that cross over between the engine wiring and the car. you still have to run the harness from the engine/sensors to the ecu.

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hooo ok! got you...

 

if theres a difference between S13 and S14 motor / ECU, location wiring or extra sensors?

 

yeah. is there a difference?

since a s14 is what I've got.

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The s14 isn't much different in the wire colors except the cold start signal witch off the top of my head I can't remember the color. I personally hate the s14 harness, it takes way longer to wire. The ECCS relay is already wired though :) I always move it, its in a bad spot.

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