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datsunfreak last won the day on March 19 2018

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About datsunfreak

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 12/21/1972

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  • Location
    Arlington, TX
  • Cars
    '71 510 Sedan, '67 Galaxie 500 HT
  • Interests
    Datsuns, Guitars, and Photography...
  • Occupation
    Automotive Photojournalist, Vintage Automotive Restorer/Mechanic

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  1. Hell, I thought we were still using that... 😀
  2. Leaf springs removed and notches cut... Leaf springs reinstalled underneath the axle... Ran out of time to install these so they are up next...
  3. Well, you'll be fine for another 20+ years at least. 😁
  4. Looking at the way the OEs have been doing it for 20+ years, 14 gauge should be fine. I see modern cars with much bigger loads using even smaller wires than that. And one thing I have found on most Datsuns is that wire/circuit overheating/overloading is more often caused by the age (read: level of internal corrosion) than the thickness of said wire. IMO if it's all new, you'll be fine.
  5. Made a few more since then and they seem to get a little better each time. Here is the latest... http://datsun510.com/index.php?/gallery/image/44986-img_20191106_183938_573jpg
  6. Made Tim something for his birthday...
  7. And the new 6x9 door speakers are in too. They sound good but have us contemplating adding more speakers...
  8. The previous owner bought new inner and outer tie rods, but after seeing the state of them I knew the center bits won't be reusable due to rust. Hence why I was looking at using heim joint steering links. Well, after taking a peek around online, I was able to find the center bits new for about $10 the pair. It helps that every Ford full size car used the same part from 1960-1972... 😄 I ordered some replacement urethane bushings for the T/C rods, but will go forward with making new rods using heim joints. . Heims for the steering may happen at some future point, but I don't think the return on investment is worthwhile there, as stock tie rods are plenty stiff when new. I think stiffening the T/C rods will yield much bigger gains in stability... In fact, on two of my Datsuns, the best bang for the buck on steering stiffness was just using urethane boots on stock tire rods. If I can find some for this, they will definitely be going on...
  9. Finally got down to square one with the right side, and you can definitely see what's wrong with that lower control arm... And the T/C rod took some of the hit too. That bit between the red lines is supposed to be straight... 😄 Good news is the crossmember took no damage. 👍 Trying to decide between heat and straighten the T/C rod, or just see if I can make something like this...
  10. So, cool horn buttons can be kind of expensive. Something with a logo you like can easily be $15-20, and something custom is usually more like $30-40. So what to do? Well, you're a cheap bastard Datsun owner, so just make your own! 😁 I started with a RDT button because you can get them on ebay for about $5, and they have an important feature you will see shortly... Use a sharp knife or tiny screwdriver to pop the logo out, but make sure you save it... Now use that logo to trace out the size/shape you need from something else. For this experiment, I just printed out some sakuras on plain paper... Now very carefully cut that out and use some simple glue (like Elmer's white glue) to stick it down to the button... Now here's a pro tip I learned the hard way, resin will soak into paper and make it look splotchy and gross. 😁 So if you use printed paper like I did, you have to coat it with something first. I used this because I had some handy, it dries quickly, and dries very hard and clear. Now you need to find a very level spot in your house (garage floor usually works well), and two identical height things to prop it up on (I used two spray paint lids) to keep it perfectly level for at least 12 hours. Once you do that, get some good clear resin (I used this because it has a UV coating built in), mix it per the directions, and carefully pour it into the button. If you want the cool rounded over effect common on most aftermarket horn buttons, you have to pour in a tiny bit too much. Hence the need to have it perfectly level. What I did was pour just enough in to get it to roll out to the edges on it's own, then a few drops extra. This kept it all inside the lip mentioned in step #1. Be sure to pour it in very slowly, a little bit at a time, because most clear resins take 12-24 hours to get hard so you have plenty of time to add more if you need it. If you put in too much, you're screwed, 😂 One more tip is if you use something that doesn't let resin soak into it, like a sticker/decal, you won't have to coat it or glue it down, which will save you a few steps. 😁
  11. 3-to-6 adapter and quick release hub on... New wheel and the rest of the quick release... Decided to go ahead and remove the stock shifter handle as well... And put the shift indicator on the new shifter... Still need to rig up the OD cut-off switch though...
  12. And it looks like that dude made one using a ball joint as the pivot, which is pretty damn clever.... 😄
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