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Crashtd420 last won the day on November 26 2019

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About Crashtd420

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    Datsun Mechanic
  • Birthday 02/04/1975

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    1972 Datsun 521
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    Datsuns Atv /Family
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  1. You know what I didn't even think about those.... I used them myself to balance my carburator.... I dont know if they can be used for what you thinking... and I wouldn't know if 1 or all 4 are needed.... I know they usually talk about ported vacuum vs manifold vacuum.... so there is a difference..... I almost want to go do an experiment.... I have a manifold vacuum source hooked to my distributor right now only because I was curious what readings it would give me.... Side now I have a bluetooth digital distributor.... I have the vacuum map zeroed out and i am only running mechanical advance..... But this setup has built in vacuum/boost gauge built in so I can see what the vacuum is doing in real time.... I could technically do what your saying to see and understand the differences... Unfortunately I'm in the middle of removing my intake doing some winter maintenance and upgrades so I cant do that right now.. but it's an interesting thought....
  2. ???? Got a pic of the ports and where they go? Didnt know you could add a port the side drafts..... But no it may help with some things but I thought the vacuum advance was more about emissions or something.... I honestly really dont know.... I dont know any one with side drafts running vacuum advance.... I know I am not....
  3. Ok yes if going in on the air fuel screw didnt go to good I would definitely go up one on the idle jet first and then try that screw again....
  4. I would definitely do the bigger air correctors regardless but choose 1 or the other between the main and the idle jet.... Doing both could give you confusing results..... and both can have an effect on the other.... Right now the idea is to get more fuel into the middle where you say it goes lean.... I'd rather see it a bit rich and try to lean it out after than the other way around.... Another thing to keep in mind is rpm vs throttle position..... I was keeping a log book with me and documenting the changes..... I would drive around doing errands or coming home from work making jet changes.... Then as you change things you should notice things getting better or worse....
  5. That usually why the emulsion tubes are last.... the cost.... By the time you need them you already spend enough on jets...... Was the f8 tube what I had suggested? I forget now.... I may have to grab my weber book and refresh my thoughts.... But I still think .. Lean out the air screw for the idle.... Go bigger on the main to richen the transition and then you'll want to to lean out the top with bigger air correctors..
  6. Yes but your middle is lean.... You can richen it with the main and then lean out the top with the air corrector.... This is why I mention the emulsion tube... the mains and air correctors kind up create this upper fuel curve... A different tube will move that whole curve closer to the transition....
  7. Dont even worry about that +50 between the main and the air fuel.... it more of a baseline..... Maybe try leaning out the air screw first.... Dont change the idle jet yet.... But try 1 bigger on the main.... See what that does..... Dont worry about the air corrector for now.... changing the main will affect that... if its extremely rich on the top.... then go a couple sizes bigger for now... I hate to sound like a broken record but if you keep chasing this around you really need to think about some different emulsion tubes..... I think I made a recommendation on which ones to try.... Also if you have some old tubes you can try making a custom set.
  8. So when you say as soon as the throttle cracks it goes lean.... for how long? Is it during a certain rpm or more pedal position? I may have a different comment depending on those answers.... But my first thought is to turn the air fuel screws in a bit to lean out the idle..... Then you can determine more from there.... You might even try going to about 2 to 2.5 turns out and a 60f8 idle jet... I'm still thinking the emulsion tube might be the next thing to look at.... Different tubes would allow the main to come in sooner.... If the wot and high rpms are rich that going to be your air corrector.... Bigger will lean that part out..... How is part throttle cruising? Any how start at the idle circuit (again)
  9. I ran into that same situation with my L16.... I think the motor swapping is way over done lately that's the only reason I build my L ..... I applaud your effort....
  10. I woke up driving in the grassy center part of the highway..... I remember seeing the trailer of a semi truck as I was trying to correct myself and thought I dont wanna hit that.... so I cut the wheel harder to avoid it, hoping to just end up on the other side of the highway spun out.... well when the car got parallel to the road... the driverside wheels grabbed the pavement and over she went.....
  11. Yup.. I had a mid 90s chevy z24 cavalier. my dumb as fell asleep at the wheel with cruise control on doing 70.. oops..... i took 4 staples in the head other than that i walk away .....
  12. Funny thing is I had to drive 2 cars home like that before.... My 1st car the hood latch broke and the hood came up flat against my windshield doing about 40..... had to stick my head out to see and then listen for the gravel as i pulled to the side of the road.... Other time i rolled my convertible on the highway and i could barely see through the window any more..... it landed on its wheels so I drove it 5 miles home.....
  13. I can actually see fine out of it while driving.... I do tend to open it when I go to back up so I can see better.....
  14. Got a little time in the garage tonight.... drained the coolant so I can pull the heater core again.... And started removing the carburetor so I can get the intake off...... New control arm bolts showed up ... While cleaning up and organizing the things I need to do I found a sticker with some parts I had purchased from mikeklotz ... had to get it on the truck.....
  15. Crashtd420

    1968 520

    That vin plate might be a concern when going to register... They were riveted into the drivers door jab.... that's the one they will want to check.... It's also in the engine bay but that's not a vin tag.... you should also be able to find the number on the frame.... passenger side frame rail... on top behind the front control arms....
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