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Dguy210

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Dguy210 last won the day on November 9

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About Dguy210

  • Rank
    Service Manual Technician
  • Birthday January 7

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Near Oregon City
  • Cars
    '74 4dr B210, '71 1200 (KA24E swap), '72 510 4dr (project), 2015 Leaf, 2014 Sienna, '97 F150 4x4
  • Interests
    Cars and Beer.
  • Occupation
    Scientist

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  1. Found out from Carlos a couple days ago, very surprised. Rest in Peace Brian.
  2. Edit: Deleted a bunch of ranting. Short form is there are a bunch of bad feelings over how it was "sold" (I never saw any of the money and my name was on the registration) and I already have another 1200 project.
  3. Time Left: 28 days and 10 hours

    • WANTED
    • USED

    Looking to buy a Z20 front sump oil pan and pickup. I'm near Oregon City so anywhere within reasonable driving distance would be great but shipping is fine too.

    NO VALUE SPECIFIED

  4. "Yeah, but your tits are down there"
  5. https://www.amazon.com/Velleman-K2543-Electronic-Transistor-Ignition/dp/B007GP6EQ6 Price: $21.95 + $5.13 shipping Edit: attached wiring diagram and parts list for general interest. 91L+BJJA0aL.pdf
  6. Hell, that doormat is good any time. I wonder how legally binding it would be too? I wonder if it has ever come up in court?
  7. Weird as it sounds try using a bit of good quality lotion on those areas of your skin, will soften it up a bit and keep it from cracking. If you want something less greasy corn huskers lotion is good for that. I get it from the local Freddy Meyers when it is in stock. My job requires me to wear nitrile gloves at all times and some long days my hands can get a bit irritated especially if I can't change them as much (we are currently under a glove shortage which is not helping at all). A good pair of work gloves are really worth it. As fast as I wear them out doing stuff around the house or working in the shop I'll trade that for tearing up my skin. The older I get the less I cheap out on protective clothing or tools that keep me from getting torn up. https://www.amazon.com/Corn-Huskers-Oil-Free-Hand-Lotion/dp/B000RO3EMA
  8. Many times. Cheap regular crazy glue and the surgical stuff. For thin cuts it tends to leave very faint scars but seals it up quite well. The surgical stuff is slightly different chemistry for better tissue compatibility and I personally feel it burns less but works about the same. Used to use a lot of vetbond because we would have it leftover and unusable after animal surgeries. Worked pretty well to glue not just skin back together too (we were doing more internal stuff). Still sterile but couldn't reuse it so would just get tossed. Same as the human stuff just not FDA approved. You can pretty much glue whatever you want back together with that stuff, runs about $20 a tube on Amazon. Did some searching and this explains the differences: https://lacerationrepair.com/wound-blog/three-things-you-didnt-know-about-glueing-skin/ For simple cuts and such it probably doesn't matter as much. The actual surgical stuff is more expensive but is better suited but realistically they both work in a pinch. Dermabond is the human rated version but seems expensive and hard to find, supposedly OTC.
  9. Mostly. It is a frankenengine put together more than 15 years ago from a bunch of different parts we had at the time and should be a closed chamber head and likely has had a little bit of work done on it at some time. It is high compression and really likes 92 clear, I've upgraded to the matchbox electronic ignition, upsized slightly the exhaust, no smog stuff, I would've port matched the manifold and probably some other minor things. I really just don't remember as it has been too long, it was built for reliability and freeway driving as the B210 was my daily driver at the time (100 mile daily commute) and I had dropped a valve in the A13 and didn't feel like rebuilding it yet again. I would have just picked through the best parts I had when building it from a large selection, so not any stock engine you could buy outright but also not any super fancy parts either. I had several A series cars at the time, a very large garage filled with A14-A15 parts and was running (most of) a race engine in my old 1200 coupe which was basically a very fun grenade.
  10. For my B210 sort of. I have an A14 in it and 63A dogleg with H150 diff, 280ZX struts and Weber which are all close to bolt in mods. Was an A13 automatic with H145 because 1974 model year, realize I also bought it in 1999 and I've owned quite a few A series cars, including several B110s, a 210 and the B210. I have long looked into doing an engine swap on it for more power and I've seen and know one of the guys with an L20B swap in a B210. I've also owned an L20B swapped 521 with dogleg 5spd so I am quite familiar with the power levels involved of the L20B. I decided not to do the original KA24E swap into my B210 and instead put that into a B110 shell which has required pretty much all the upgrades I'm talking about. I also have been welding for about 30years at this point, have various machine tools, and extensive experience in this type of stuff, and a large well equipped workshop. I have built up Datsuns from empty shells before and done more engine swaps and other mods than I can even remember over the last +25 years. I have also considered doing an L20B swap into my B210 and researched what would be required and what the benefit is of it and have decided to not consider it unless I had another running car. I currently have the 1200 KA24E swap which is nearing completion after several years and a 510 4dr shell which will likely get many of the parts I had purchased otherwise.
  11. I would strongly suggest a couple of things. 1. swap to a weber on the car you have now, it is great upgrade and really helps with drivability. 2. 280ZX front strut swaps, bigger brakes are a good upgrade. 3. Gather all the parts you need before pulling your running car apart. Even in areas where those parts were plentiful they are getting harder to locate or more expensive. 4. This project will not be cheap unless you get lucky, several of the needed parts are very desirable and command a premium. 5. Welding is an invaluable skill and you can get into it for not too much. 6. Realize this is a bit of a big undertaking, it would likely be cheaper in the long run to just buy another vehicle that is already swapped they way you want, i.e., a 510 or such. 7. No matter what anyone says a 510 crossmember is not a direct bolt in to run an L series in a B210. The swaps that have been successful rework the B210 engine mounts as the engine ends up sitting more forward than the 510 crossmember would place it. 8. As the B210 is a manual you may need to widen the transmission tunnel depending on what transmission you cram in there. 9. Your sidedrafts will likely not fit without some mods to the air horns or some creative rearranging. The B210 brake booster tends to get in the way. People have come up with a few solutions but they all have issues. 10. An L20B swap will not be cheap, you may just spread the spending out over a much longer period of time. Double the cost of what you think it will cost and you will probably still be under what it will actually be. 11. Come up with a contingency plan if your friend helping you backs out or is unavailable. You don't want your car pulled apart for years at a time. I'm not trying to be negative here, just many of us have seen postings about various engine swaps that eventually end up with a hacked up non-running car being sold later when it goes nowhere and after lots of time and money was spent. If the car runs now I would suggest driving it and enjoying it. Build the skills, maybe pickup another of the same model as a shell or non-runner to do the swap on while you learn.
  12. Imgur works decent too. You can also optimize your jpgs before attaching to get around the 4mb size limit. You can make some big ol res pics real small in KBs that way.
  13. A series and L series stuff do not bolt up. There is one exception in being able to swap out front transmission casings on the 63A dogleg 5spd but you still need to account for the smaller pilot bearing shaft and the A series version of that transmission is worth more than the L series anyways.
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