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wayno

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wayno last won the day on December 20 2018

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About wayno

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  1. What I did took a very long time and a lot of thinking, it's not for everyone.
  2. wayno

    hydraulics help needed

    Every photo I have ever taken is on my home computer since buying a digital camera, that way I can find what I need no matter what any greedy CEO/share holder does, but that doesn't mean I will fix links out on the net.
  3. The reason I had to measure my 520 setup is because I changed way more than just that lower shock mount, I changed the front leaf mounts which in theory put the leaf 1.5" closer to the upper shock mount, I changed the rear shackle assembly to a Roadster type set up which put the leaf 2.5" closer to the upper shock mount, I also changed the lower shock mount to a 510 type mount which put the lower mount maybe another 1" closer to the upper shock mount, I used 4wd 720 leafs also, so I likely averaged around needing a 5"/6" shorter shock than stock with a lower eye type mount, the way I figured it I did around a 7" to 8" drop in the rear, The front was close to the same drop, I regret not doing a 2" or 3" body drop first now, but that will not happen anymore, it is what it is and I can live with it.
  4. Yes I seen the measurement, I don't get that deep into my builds, I have never measured a head in my life, I have never seen the need to, a head is a head, what counts to me is what head it is, a 219 head is closed chamber with big 1.5" intake ports and large valves, a U67 head(U60 is the same) is an open chamber head with big intake ports and large valves, the W53 head is usually a closed chamber head although I have an open chamber one, they have medium valves and small intake ports, the A87 head is either open or closed with small or large intakes depending on the head as a few A87 heads have a 219 on the front of the head, this is all I need to know, if I plan on buying a head I look to see if any of the head designation letter/number has been shaved off, if it has I do not buy the head. I have had a few W53 closed chamber heads made into a 219 race head, I do this because I want it to breath on the freeway using a stock cam with my dual SUs, I use stock cams because I want my engines to have torque/grunt, hot cams do not have grunt as they sacrifice grunt for more HP, I don't drive around above 4000rpms so I see no need for a hot cam, my trucks go plenty fast, I broke my Datsun 521 speedo needle off breaking in my LZ23, I took it up to 6000rpms once and then let off, when I looked at the speedo the needle was gone.
  5. I suspect the plate was cut because they didn't want to take the time to drop the oil pump to re-clock the distributor drive and set it up properly. I also believe that the U60 head was shaved that far to up the compression because it has stock dished pistons, if it had aftermarket pistons it would not have needed to be shaved as they would have bought the pistons to match the head, not shave the head to match the pistons, but I am just guessing.
  6. My first question would be do you have the coolant bypass hose in your thermostat housing on your L20b or did you use your L16 thermostat housing on your L20b?
  7. wayno

    Vented hood anyone?

    I have a 1980 Datsun 720, when it had the L20b in it I noticed that the rain ended up on the air filter housing top and engine, if it sat a long time water could sneak thru the bolt hole holding the air filter housing top on and go right down the carb into the manifold and right into the engine if a valve was open. This very thing happened when a truck I got sat a long time outside without a hood under a wood shed roof, sideways rain got into #3 cylinder and sat there so long that the piston could not get by the rust when he tried starting it and then it sat some more till I got the truck. Here is the manifold below where the carb was. And here is the #4 cylinder that had a valve open. And here is when I finally got the piston to move away from the rust. Holes in the hood are not good if in the wrong spot, you definitely do not want a hole over an air filter housing.
  8. 5th gear is the worst gear in a dogleg, I was told a long time ago if your going to haul weight or tow on the freeway use 4th gear, this is especially true on the dog leg 5spd. Maybe you can find a 4spd to sell it, they are cheap as everyone wants 5spds.
  9. wayno

    My 1971 521

    Sure it is cut, this is what it is supposed to look like.
  10. I dislike dogleg 5spds because I went thru 4 of them in 5 years in my 521, but I use my 521 as a work truck and they are not made for trucks or to be in 5th gears for long periods of time. I wrote this article for all those out there on how to make a short shaft 5spd for their 521 like I did, I suspect it will bolt right into your 510 also, You do have an L block, correct?
  11. wayno

    My 1971 521

    You have to look at it this way, just because you have your truck running, at least good enough for you doesn't mean it is set up properly, and no one else will be able to make heads or tails out of it the way you have it set up, but it runs so it is good enough. I had my cam off on all my engines for years because of the way I set it up, it ran fine or it seemed to, but once I Dmike posted a photo of a correct timed cam and I looked at my engine right next to the computer and seen it was wrong, so then I pulled the valve covers off all my L block engines and seen they were all wrong, I fixed all of them and the work truck knocked/pinged something terrible afterwards, I had to re-curve the distributor to get it set up properly and not to knock/ping, guess what, all my engines have more power now. Each one of your notches is likely 5 degrees like in the photo below, like mine on my J15 engine which the pulley is 6" across, all 4 stroke engines with that size pulley will be exactly the same as they are all the same like the saw tooth in the photo shows. Your photo has what appears to be 2 big notches, one is likely a couple degrees ATDC, the other is TDC, then you have 5, 10 15, 20, the last one appears to be around 35 degrees BTDC, maybe that is the mark that you should see it reach when revved higher than a certain RPM when the vacuum advance line is connected, I do not know for sure. As for the cam it depends on which way you turned the crank on where the cam will be when the crank pulley shows TDC, your pointer doesn't look bent. Everything I have read makes me say don't pull the engine apart unless you are positive it needs rebuilt, I would not waste the money, it was pulled because of an upgrade, sounds to me like the guy wanted more power than even a built L20b could give him, it very well could be a very low mileage engine, maybe he could not get them carbs dialed in, there are a lot of reasons it could have been pulled, with them carbs and that cam maybe the only way it could be driven is like a race car, and it was easier to deal with it by installing something with way more power that was stock, so it could be driven normally instead of having to rev it way up to get it off the line. Personally I would make an engine run stand and start it up and get it running decently, and if everything went well I would install it in the truck, but I would put a stock cam in it and use dual SUs as I have not got the patients to try and tune a set of them carbs, but that is me and I have fun making engine stands.
  12. In the end if I had a 620 that needed the engine rebuilt I would find an L20b block, I would not rebuild the L16. I would use the W53 head if I could not find a A87 or 219 closed chamber head, but I would use larger valves and have hardened seats installed, I would not use anything other than the stock cam and the reason is that 99 percent of the people driving cars/trucks do not drive their vehicles on the road/street the way one needs to to benefit from a race cam, and engines do not last long when driven that way, one or two seasons of racing and they need rebuilt again(4 or 5 thousand miles?). I am at the extreme end of how I use my 1971 Datsun 521 work truck, back in the mid 90s I bought it, it had an L16 with a 210 head, it was gutless, I found an L20b from a 78/79 Datsun 620 in a wrecking yard with a W58 head, stock carb, and a dogleg 5spd, I bought it and installed it, it had way more power, I put an exhaust system in it using a cheap square port header as I had a W53 head at the machine shop, they installed hardened seats and large 280Z size valves but it was not done yet, I drove it around for a while that way because my machine shop worked mostly on race cars and they got priority, so it sometimes took a while to get to my stuff, in the meantime I bought a dual SU setup and bought a set of brand new SUs from Nissan as the were having a sale on them($400.00 a set), when I finally got my head I installed it and the dual SUs and I have never looked back, I drove it that way for over 10 years, and I beat the shit out of that engine, I haul a trailer and I haul massive amounts of weight all the time(at least I used to), because of how I used my truck I have modified the shit out of the truck, it has a dually axle, front disc brakes, a ball joint front end, power steering, power brakes, short shaft truck 5 speed, the frame was extended over 2 feet, it had a flatbed, this was all done before this forum existed. When that engine wore out around 2010 I used a 1980 Datsun L20b block out of a truck I bought I had converted over to a diesel, I had another W53 head rebuilt, I left the stock valves in it, but I had the machine ship put a hotter cam in the head, the idea was since leaving the stock smaller valves in it I would use a cam to help it breath, well that didn't work out once I put it in the work truck, it had less torque, it was a lot harder to get my truck moving, I drove it for a couple months and then decided to build a LZ23 as it didn't have anymore power on the freeway either. I built the LZ23 and had my super head from the first block rebuilt with a stock cam, what a great engine and I still have that engine in my work truck to this day, it is also a dump truck now, the truck weighs 3900lbs, I did this dump bed 20 years too late. I would not put a hot cam in your engine, you will be way happier with a stock L20b, just ask Crashtd420, here is a link to his build. https://ratsun.net/topic/70806-a-521-in-massachusetts/ I believe he also mentioned this after building his L16 engine, there is no substitute for displacement.
  13. I just don't see manufacturers pointing out a flaw in their engines in the factory service manual.
  14. wayno

    70 Datsun 521 newbie

    My guess would be around 3 1/2" blocks plus a shim, close to 4", this may be an issue with 14" rims, either the shock mounts or ends of the U-bolts will drag on the ground if he gets a flat, in the end the shock mounts will drag if the u-bolts are trimmed. Some folks don't care if stuff drags, I have seen photos of the lower shock mount/shock stud almost completely ground off from dragging on the ground.
  15. wayno

    J13 engines

    I don't know a lot about the 411 vehicles, some had kingpin front ends? with drum brakes?, while others had Roadster type ball joint front ends with disc brakes? and the R16? I did not know there was an SS version. The dual SU thing is where you need to look at the early MG parts, the dual SU manifolds bolt right on to the early Datsun head, not sure about the exhaust manifolds clearing Datsun fuel pumps though, there are a lot of MG parts that can be used on the E and J blocks.
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