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wayno last won the day on August 27

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  1. wayno

    L16 queries

    My W53 head chamber looks a lot like a 210 head, I do not have an open chamber head(U67/A87) here to compare it to. The head with the valves is the W53 head, the one with no valves is a 210 head.
  2. Ratsun is not a club, it's a forum, but Datsun Club members and people that put on events do frequent this forum/site, like jbirds510 who chimed in. Carterb appears to have been contacted by Eric Schlichte about possibly making an already existing racing(???) event at Pacific Raceways into something much bigger like the All British Field Meet at PIR. The meet he used as an example is likely not a good example as that event is huge and likely draws in more of the general public than actual British car owners now, they claim to have more than 800 British vehicles at this event.
  3. wayno

    New 320 owner, 62?

    You don't understand, I have 2 wires that connect to the tank, one is brown but that wire was extended to reach the tank mounted in the bed, I do not know what color the wire is supposed to be, the other wire is black(also extended) is mounted to the sender body, that brown wire likely goes to the main harness, the black wire goes to the chassis/frame where I said in my last post. You can see the single black wire in the photo below going to the inside of the frame, that is where it mounts, the other single wire that comes from the tank(brown wire) goes into the wiring harness, everything is wrapped in electrical tape so it's all black. You can see where it is mounted in the photo below and the single wire going forward. I only have 2 wires going to the tank, one comes from the frame/chassis and the other comes from the wiring harness, I believe if you were to un-wrap the the wires between the tank and that ring terminal you will find you also only have 2 wires going to the tank.
  4. wayno

    New 320 owner, 62?

    I just traced that wire on my L320, if you follow the 2 wires from the tank you will see that one of the wires goes into the rear harness and the other one with the ring terminal attaches to the inside of the chassis/frame just above the rear e-brake cable mount for that side.
  5. Pacific Raceways is in Kent WA, I think he was using the British Field Meet in Portland at PIR as an example of what can be done, they have races or at least practice racing on the track, they have vendors of which some are swap meet type, food, they separate the different types of British vehicles(there are a lot of different types), there are hundreds of vehicles there, maybe over a thousand, if the British made it it is there, to actually look at every vehicle will take all day, the blacktop areas are the pits, and all the grass area south of the pits to the road/dike and west to the trees is full of vintage vehicles.
  6. I read or heard somewhere that the F4U Corsair was hard to land on the aircraft carriers unless they did a "U" shaped approach so they could see where to land as the fuselage was in the way of what was right in front of them.
  7. wayno

    L16 queries

    I also have one of them weird W53 open chamber heads, when I removed it and seen it was open I was stunned, but I bought it anyway, I figured if I ever built a flat top piston L block that would be a good head for it.
  8. wayno

    L16 queries

    I also had an issue with knocking/pinging when I built my LZ23(Z22 block, Z24 pistons), I was told it has a 8.9 to 1 compression ratio and it has one of my W53 super heads(closed chamber, 280Z valves, port matched to a dual SU intake manifold), at first I had the cam timed wrong and as I recall I had it timed at 6 degrees BTDC, keep in mind that this work truck of mine gets regular gas. One day I seen a photo if a correctly timed cam Dmike posted, I had a fresh rebuilt engine available that I checked and it was timed wrong, so I went out and checked my 520 ute engine(L20B with 219 head) and it was also wrong, I always wondered why that engine had no power, timed correctly it now has power, then I checked the work truck engine(LZ23 mentioned above), it was timed wrong also, I timed the cam correctly and that engine started knocking like crazy, I had to time the distributor(matchbox) at 0 degrees/TDC to get it to stop knocking, it was awful, and it didn't really run that great, I actually thought about putting the cam back to where it was before as it had been doing the job for 6/7 years with the cam timed wrong, anyway I mentioned a couple times that my engine was timed at 0 degrees and a member here that I had sold a rare part to mentioned I could re-curve my distributor myself or he could do it for me if I sent it to him, I asked how and he told me, I had to take my distributor almost completely apart and weld up one of the slots a pre-determined amount, I put it back together and installed it, I believe I have it set at 7 degrees BTDC now and it is a great engine, I have more power also, every once in a while I re-time it 1 or 2 degrees more advanced and it has not knocked/pinged yet, it sounds like a different engine also. You have choices, either buy the best gas available, try it at 10 degrees instead of 12 degrees, you can have your distributor re-curved and leave it at 12 degrees and buy the cheaper gas, you do have choices just like I had choices, I burn regular with a re-curved distributor and the engine runs the best it ever has.
  9. I would first do what Hainz said and try turning the engine over with a breaker bar, you only need to turn it one turn. If it turns then I would jump the starter motor to see if it works, get a big flat edge screw driver, there are 3 connections on the starter solenoid, the main power cable from the battery, the small wire from the ignition, and the other large post that has a large short cable going to the starter motor itself, with that screw driver I jump from the main post with the cable coming from the battery to the main post that goes to the starter motor, now you make sure the transmission is in neutral and the e-brake is on, if the starter motor runs/turns over then the motor is good, when it does run/turn over it may turn the engine over or it may not turn the engine over, it depends on what is going in inside the solenoid, if it does run/turn over then I would jump from the main post that goes to the battery to the small post the wire from the ignition goes to and see if it turns over the motor, if it does then the issue is somewhere else. This is how I get my engines to start when I have issues with the key making that clicking sound, but your truck has sat for a long time likely in a field, stuff starts to rust out in the weather, but clicking usually means the solenoid is not rusted up solid. Be very careful when jumping the starter this way above, you can accidentally ground out the screw driver if your not careful.
  10. This is link to the Red tails. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Red_Tails
  11. I am fine with paying for my 3 sets also, send me a Paypal invoice also. I have not received any invoice either.
  12. There was a movie about this unit recently on TV called the "Red tails".
  13. It does not have a slotted edge, but it is about the right size width wise but that is it as nothing else is right, the column hole appears to be too big also, this one appears to have around a 2" hole while are 320 pieces have a 1.5" hole/column. https://www.steelerubber.com/steering-column-grommet-40-0421-36 This is basically what I did to my 520 and 521 trucks but I made my own out of scrap rubber stock from the hardware store, but them gaskets were flat to begin with, it's really about if you want your 320 to look stock or if your looking for function.
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