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iceman510

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    Michigan
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    69 510 73 510 91 Galant VR4 88 Hardbody

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  1. I began using Redline products in my Mitsubishi FWD transmissions years ago. they offered a 75W85 GL4 (safe for brass synchros) that matched requirements. with that. For my older Datsuns (RWD), I have used mostly Valvoline, but I would have to confirm what viscosity. I will be using a 280ZX trans in my 510 here in the near future, but I have not researched yet what viscosity that requires. I will probably choose Redline if I find a match. I wouldn't really worry about synthetic leaks. This application is not pressurized, and you can certainly change the rear seal relatively easily if there is a problem.
  2. I live in Michigan outside Detroit, and closer to Lansing (liberal state capitol). All the falsely sincere news people this week were talking about how Michigan hospitals are "overwhelmed", but the Johns Hopkins numbers still show ICU space across the state. Not saying it might not be higher than normal, but not overwhelmed.
  3. "Run it up to marketing". Yes, because that is certainly "science". So why is "recovered" "still healing"? What bullshit.
  4. I don't have the full data at my fingertips, but the 2000's era R180 Subie diffs are generally either 3.90 or 3.54. they change depending on the front differential ratio used (some 1:1, some 1.1:1) There are also multiple types, for certain clutch and Torsen. I don't know of any 4.11 or higher R180s. You can do a CV conversion with shafts from other sources than Datsun Restomods, but most use stub axles and adapters (Futofab, Ermish, Driveshaft shop) not the OE type axle assembly with integral shafts like Restomods made (makes?). Looks like Futofab has both options. http://www.futofab.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id=38&Itemid=122 More info: http://www.futofab.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=173:subaru-wrx-sti-conversion-stub-axles&catid=38:datsun-drivetrain&Itemid=122
  5. I believe the Legacy/Forester/Impreza (including WRX) diffs are all R160s, not 180s. The STI is the only one that had 180s. As far as I know. all the newer Subarus use the clip-in/snap ring axles, no bolt-in stub shafts. I have a 3.9 CLSD R180 here that I will be using with the Restomod full CV axle kit (no separate stubs), and a R160 4:11 VLSD that I will use the Restomod clip-in stub shafts to adapt to stock half shafts. That's the reason to use stub shafts, to adapt to stock axles, but they are still all snap ring type. The stock Datsun stub shafts from R160 or R180 diffs are slightly too short to modify for snap rings. The Datsun Restomods stubs I have are made from Subaru inner plug-in axle cups from the original full CV axles.
  6. The factory full tach harness plugs into the stock dash harness three-pin connector that would normally plug into the clock (if so equipped, otherwise taped to the dash harness) to access the lighting wire and ground. then the individual tach lighting harness plugs into the full tach harness also. I rewrapped my harness (the right one), and I don't recall how those other two wires with the spade terminals were connected in. Do you currently have anything connected to the two spade terminals that come out the rear of the tach? Are they for lighting too?
  7. Should come pre-haunted with the souls of those who unfortunately perished there.
  8. Actual not legal for any state to restrict commerce between states. That is one that is specifically called out in the constitution, that Congress reserves the right to control that. (ICC). No shipper should legitimately be party to enforcing such a ridiculous attempt. https://constitution.congress.gov/browse/essay/artI-S8-C3-1-2/ALDE_00001058/
  9. Sorry for the delay. Here is the harness (left side) I have, not sure what it is from. I checked and it fits in the tach holes. One of the bulb housings has a broken tab, so it may need to be glued in or taped to stay put. The connectors are different from my tach lighting harness, shown on the right. The three pin connector plugs into the full tach harness. Do you have the full tach harness? I'm sure you could make this work if you do.
  10. So I saw your video of this. Maybe I didn't listen too well, or missed it. Is there a recommended tach? What about calibration between the tach itself and your facing, matching the needle sweep?
  11. I might have an extra of this subharness, or something similar. I will check tomorrow.
  12. So weak! Covid can't even beat sunstroke?
  13. Next time you come across it, think of me. I would still be curious to see it. Getting first-hand info on how this is set up from the factory has been difficult. It doesn't show in most build photos due to the location(s) in the c-pillar and under the rear deck. Seems the two branches should be separate on opposite sides of the car, unless they are somehow joined together under that rear deck. Factory manual wiring information is extremely generic. Thanks.
  14. Not really sure, confirmation I guess. I don't at this point know what harness you could really be referencing. The positive side is just a wire branching off the chassis/trunk harness (near the fuel filler) up the C-pillar to the glass. The other end "should" be just a wire from the glass grounding to the body. I can easily replicate the ground end, and I have already repaired the branch to the positive end. So I guess just curious what the "harness" would include, no real need. Thanks.
  15. Can you text or email me a picture of it? Pretty please? 😁
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