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Thanks for the floor info guys. For the money, I think I'll end up making them myself. I have a good-sized roll of 20 gauge metal here, plus a mig welder and mini Hobart plasma machine. And hammers. But. I was hoping Futofab would have them so we could roadtrip our way down there to meet Dave in person. lol. Anyway.. I got a few peeks at the car last night, a few more things are tentatively 'figured out' for now. My next trick is to go grab a small pressure washer, and see how much of this flaky gray primer will fall off so I can have that mustardy patina back. Oh, if only those glass fenders had been painted the day I got this thing... haha... Hindsight. I got the other two SSR Formula Mesh rims dug out, part of today's plan is to squirt a can of WD40 on their bolts and wait real patiently for it to do some work.... The next big decision is 'do I buy or make my own brake and fuel lines?'..... For about the price of a set of pre-bent stainless brake lines, I can almost buy an Eastwood flaring station and all the materials I'd need to make them. I plan on adding a line lock, plus a proportioning valve as well. Which would require modifying at least a few of the pre-bent lines. While I'm thinking about it, does anyone here have any experience with the factory 'competition' suspension on these cars? Minus the sway bars, it's all installed on the car now. There were a few sets of bump steer spacers in with all the tuning goodies, but my understanding was that they weren't going to be needed with this setup? It's not like it's a big deal to swap them in later, I was more 'just wondering'... The battle continues...

Went to the Lynnwood PnP Friday just to check it out. I knew they had a 720 but they aren't cheap so I hesitated. The carb, reservoirs, etc. anything easily pulled were gone. But the gauge cluster (sorely needed), EVAP canister (will incorporate) was still there. Also pulled the plate for shifter boot. The interior is mostly there except driver seat is torn, no radio or center console or windshield so it will deteriorate quickly. Steering wheel, two light switches (extra), complete doors, rear seats (in the bed) and canopy are still there as of Friday.

17 feet long and with a max cargo hitch box its still under 20 so under the radar of bylaws enforcement in most cities. Just over 9 feet tall but it doesn't look the 1.5 feet overweight. Without the hitch box it fits nicely in a "small car" parking spot.

1/ Exhaust loudness equates to owner's age. 2/ Exhaust loudness does not equate to power. Sorry, but it's true.

I have pics and vids of the weber carb i installed and the interior but I can't figure out how to add them to this thread. I have big plans 1200watts of solar panels with 8 lifepo4 batteries fully electric 24v appliances and a propane Cinderella incinerator toilet in the wetbath. Paint job... right now I'm trying to find a regular and a dually rim for spares.

I get my LEDs from SuperBrightLEDs. They have a wide selection of quality stock that won't just be whatever crap from eBay and Amazon. Sadly the square cluster has the plastic of the gauges tinted green, so I don't get to choose what light color I get. I don't know about the round gauge cluster, but I can change all my illumination bulbs without removing the cluster at all, by reaching around under the dash. I have thin hands and I also know where all the lights are from having it out a couple times before. When you buy these, it's probably a good idea to buy dimmable, even if you don't plan to use the dimmer knob. Our electrical switches are flaky, and my headlight switch in particular is causing a flicker. Cheap LEDs would likely be hurt by the inconsistent current. But LEDs are a good upgrade, not just for the brightness, but the lack of heat will prevent your cluster plastic from dryrotting and getting brittle, even discoloring. Also saves you about .1 volt of alternator output. Since these old vehicles don't have headlight warning beepers to scream at you when you leave the lights on, I like running all LED since if I leave my lights on, it won't run the battery down. Additionally I can see my cluster lit up in the daytime now and remember to turn my lights off.

OK, so I think I solved the mystery of why the boot failed. I don't have bump stops. I used the old bump stop holes for the sway bar. So it bottomed enough for the boot to contact the pinch weld and the boot did the rest. I have the coil over conversion, so I am going to get some coil over bump stops and see how they work out. So in short, it was something I thought I didn't need that bit me in the ass.

I can vouch for the KF vintage floor pans, they are excellent for shape and hole placement, the edges overlap a little bit more than oem and you will have to trim or rework the tunnel side for fitment. I used the pair on my rust revival '72 510 and liked them so much I also bought the inner and outer rocker panels. The C2C ones look like they would be better for patching the floor back together.

I'm running 1 7/8 with a 2x24 cherry bomb and it's loud if I open up the secondaries but otherwise it's got a nice rumble. Old one was a Honda one like for a civic so similar size engine and it's about as big as you describe and it sounded like a tractor but wasn't insanely loud.

Gear and bearing puller plus massive 3 jaw puller, a buddy, and a good adjustable wrench or set of large metric wrenches, Hammer and punch, plus some t40 bits and snap ring pliers are all you really need other than normal tools.

Interesting............ Will be watching this. Thanks

I would not call that anti-theft, if one wants to steal your 720 just hit the area of the key with a hammer, plug in your own key assembly, start it and drive away. I believe I used a punch at an angle to loosen the screw, then used small needle nose pliers to get it out far enough to spin with my fingers, mine were not very tight.

It's legal there,but they still bust a lot of illegal grows. I hate to say it,but I think it worked better when it was illegal - lots of money flowed into a lot of rural communities, now there's been a lot of businesses shut down due to that.

(Sigh) That"s what i fingered would happen and I suppose it's inevitalble, but... ...in the late 60's-early '70's, "head shops" used to sell cool posters, and one of 'em was this: A weeny lil mouse giving the finger to a huge screaming eagle that was swoopin' down to eat him; "One Last Futile Gesture". So I am going to try it with what I have hopes is the correct tool (for the first time in my life); then whack away with hack saw, drill bit, cuss words, more cuss words, a BFH... Eddie

These two vendors offer floor pans. I've never used either of them so I can't comment on the quality. https://www.c2cfabrication.com/products/1969-1973-datsun-510-front-floor-pan-rh?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21611687206&gbraid=0AAAAAD-uWS8_95_Zdx0TU-yfp9OfUDXBn&gclid=CjwKCAjw56zWBhB0EiwAdPOQOUUQVh9yGa5RThArPRqv0IGbKtDVU8HIZZJIZLH22cNUEYLPTBJHQBoCmBsQAvD_BwE https://kfvintagejdm.com/product-category/datsun510/page/3/

Those rotors only came on the 1200 I'm afraid. They can be turned down by a shop and re-used as long as they don't drop below a minimum thickness.

Sorry to have you write that guide up but it's good for others. Datzenmike sent me an extra one he had. Very happy with them.

Hi, new 1200 owner here, recently purchased a 1973 sedan U.S. car. Planning to freshen up brakes, but trying to find a pair of rotors. Any ideas other than ebay? Such a fun car to drive! Thanks, Frank

Yeah that wouldn't work around here. Is California a state than allows you to have grow and smoke pot legally? I'll bet it isn't.

There are two sizes if you are replacing all of the bulbs. I did pink and blue in mine for everything other than warning lights and turn signals. For those I just swapped in pure white. Super easy upgrade if you pop off your steering wheel to get the gauge cluster out. It's also a good opportunity to clean the gauge cluster really well. I would avoid using gloss clear coat as it will shine when the sun hits it. Links below to the brand and size led bulbs I used in my 84 720. https://www.amazon.com/EverBright-Replacement-Interior-Clearance-Dashboard/dp/B00JDL96TI/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1FX8XPANURLZV&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Nl3R4jcAWrX4cmPgomhyMBFXf5BP-hnfUZhnf_XmzuptYNZS7TkVvL3HwZrwJTjpMd8CjvIUe_4Xk3BilfdXXQ6B4oMdFVLlC2X94fxsU9gErkK6Zkqzne0TyBiDsk7FulMvdSF7yNHENPAMzuxf0oH9xtrFbXrixATm_qdVhsra_KIWT5UP7doAuD-wBl1wohK3TuRbkPETIpwJhfIPINt5aSAhT0qxccNFM-h87tU.1IbDeDkeMI_omCg_5w8lfb_4URlUiXsrbWAhYQ6IFzw&dib_tag=se&keywords=led%2Bgauge%2Blights%2Byme%2Bbright&qid=1791722392&sprefix=led%2Bgauge%2Blights%2Byme%2Bbrigh%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-4&th=1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HMH13YJ/ref=twister_B07RBLS6QB?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

That’s a cool looking RV. Do you have any interior shots?

Those rings look fairly fixable. You'll need a light hammer, and a heavy smooth 'anvil' to work on. I make my own shaping tools to fix stainless brightwork, each piece's profile is different. The closer you get your 'tool' to the actual shape you want, the easier the shaping will go. You'd most likely want to use a wedge-shaped tool first to open up those really bent ones. The 'really bad' creases might split if you work them too much. Stainless has this fun tendency to harden up when it gets bent out of shape... If it does, it can be annealed, but you're getting into a big can of worms when it comes to that thin of material. Once you get them as straight (or 'round', in your case) as you can, it's time to break out the sandpaper. GO LIGHT on the pressure!!! I start around 800 grit with dish soap and water on most trim, and take it out to 3 or 4k. If I was doing a show car, I'd go out to about 10k. There's no real visible difference after about a 4k grit finish, but the pieces will feel like more and more they're made of liquid metal to the touch as you go higher and higher... I'll snap some pics of my process next time I start straightening some trim. I just did the headlight rings on the 510, they came out pretty OK for some pieces of stainless that have been buried in rotting pine needles for <gulp> 25-ish years now...

Thanks! There's a few pics up top of what it was a few years ago, after a little over twenty years of sleeping under a ripped-up tarp in the woods. More to come as I get into some sort of groove with this thing. I've got the floor situation sort of figured out now, I had wanted to puzzle-piece it back together, but I think it's past that now. I was really hoping Dave down at Futofab would have some floorpans. Oh well. I'll be out there with the car later this afternoon.

If you're referring to my post,it happens all the time in Northern California.