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  2. Which hoses are they supposed to be in?
  3. Been a crazy winter already with work and everything but finally got around to ordering my engine adapter and a clutch kit to handle the power level required to blow the transmission/rear axle up 🧐 Also got my Hands on some 3.70:1 gears to put in the rear diff to give me some highway speed. This spring I should be riding at my proper ride height and slaying some curvy roads again!
  4. I went out and messed with it earlier. It is cold outside right now, so vapor smoke is obviously normal, but on cold start it starts very rough. Quite a bit of smoke as well. Blue tinted, not white. Until normal operating temperature is reached, any normal amount of gas will kill it and make restarting very hard. I made a video to show. Once fully warmed up, the issues go away. I checked the fuse, it was good. Are you referring to the main distributor connector? Has red, black, blue, and red wire? Or the singular connector next to the vacuum advance?
  5. The little reducers retard the vacuum action so a sudden but transient signal doesn't signal the emissions on or off too soon. The California emissions must be a nightmare.
  6. Ok, I see that some vacuum hoses have little brass reducers inside them. Which ones? I don't trust the work that's been done by the previous owner
  7. @HOGIE has one of these now too. They are soo cool!
  8. Today
  9. banzai510(hainz)

    My 1971 521

    Like I said I would have just put the motor in and not touch anything else. BAM done!!
  10. datzenmike

    Weber Woes

    There's cam timing and there's ignition timing and in no way are they inter connected. #2 hole is a starting point, where the factory set it and will get you going. The actual check is to set TDC and look to be sure. If there is wear on the sprockets and chain or if the head was milled to flatten it the cam timing may need adjusting to the #3 hole. Again only way to know is to look at it. Ignition timing has 3 components. There's the initial timing, set with a timing light, there's vacuum advance above idle and totally related to engine load and there's mechanical advance which is RPM dependent and also above idle. Mechanical and vacuum advance should not exist at idle but if your idle is too high they may be present and this makes setting the initial advance a waste of time.
  11. You know my wife? Ha Ha, looks kind of overkill now. Especially since most of those taking part last week that live in their mother's basements are now grounded. It looks like there might be a couple of lefty fucktards in the group but definitely a majority Trump fucktards and some that don't care which side they are on so they can just damage property and act out because they didn't have a Daddy to teach them the difference between right or wrong
  12. Get another push on connector and crimp it on. The old one may have over heated and lost it's temper. Did you check the start voltage. Cause it it's low, a new connector, while a good idea, won't fix the problem.
  13. Yes. Done it multiple times..
  14. you squeeze it whoile ots off the tab then slide on?
  15. Time Left: 29 days and 21 hours

    • WANTED
    • USED

    Its a super sad day, I just lost my whole parts stash in a fire last night, Im looking for taillights for a 72 510 wagon. Thanks in advance

    $100.00

    - US

  16. It sat for six months. I had a hard time finding an engine replacement after my Z24 block cracked. The long block was rebuilt by the previous owner, but I did everything else. Manifolds, timing kit, etc. I did put some additive in the tank. Not a bad idea. I only added the regulator originally because it seemed like a problem with the Weber, but obviously was unrelated. I will not be adding it back on. I currently am running the Hitachi with no regulator, but if I can get it 100%, I'd like to put the Weber back on. Timing was properly set on the #2 mark on the cam sprocket.
  17. You can find the Nissan Factory Service Manuals (FSM) used on ebay usually.
  18. Thanks for the info! I'll check it out.
  19. An "LZ" is just a Z block and rods with custom pistons and an L head. If you're going to bore the block anyway, why not go big? Long rods are still easy enough to find and custom pistons are not as expensive as they used to be. Too much trouble for who?
  20. mainer311

    Just bought a 521

    Noted. I have the shims already, but would rather not use them if I don’t have to. I have the L series rebuild book, so I’ll refer to that for torque specs.
  21. I'm not sure what kinda female dominated household you live in but its become painfully obvious that this was a whitehat operation to catch larping lefty provocateurs, anyway, this is whats going on now Nap time for the kiddys
  22. Let's not forget the 1971 Plymouth Cricket. Keith
  23. Charlie69

    Weber Woes

    How long did this truck sit without being driven? This information would have been helpful in the first post. Run some sea foam through the gas tank to help clean up anything left from the bad gas. What carb are you running now. If you are running the stock electric pump and stock steel "Y" fuel line with the return lin hooked up, there is no need for a pressure regulator. Pull your dip stick and smell the oil on it. If it has a gas smell to it change your oil. As Mike is explaing something is still not correct because of how you have the timing set. Who put the rebuilt engine together. The "Z" engines and the "L" engines when setting the timing chain up time to the #2 spot on the cam sprocket. I had to reset my L20B when I got it back from the engine rebuilder because it was timed to the #1 spot. The rebuilt Z20 I got out of the junk yard was also set to #1.
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