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  2. Glad mine didn't have the center caps....arg !
  3. I would keep the phenolic? insulator if at all possible. Nissan thought it was needed for the stock carb although the Weber may not, I just don't know. If making gaskets get extra thick material. Don't forget to use Loc-Tite on the adapter studs.
  4. Take the little rubber cover plug off the middle and turn the screw anti clockwise to reduce the sensitivity of the BCDD. The BCDD is turned on by high intake vacuum when decelerating. Normally the mixture goes so lean that is doesn't burn. The BCDD is a little mini carburetor within a carburetor that opens to supply gas and air during this time. When vacuum returns to normal is it supposed to shut off but sometimes it doesn't and you have a slight runaway idle. If this fixes the problem then this was the problem.
  5. The bright links are only for the initial placement of the chain and sprockets. As soon as the engine is started the bright links become random and line up maybe every 20 turns so don't go by that. Set TDC exactly* and only by turning clockwise. If you over shoot don't just back up, but back up 1/4 turn and try again even if it takes a dozen tries. *This is absolutely critical so use the notch on the crank pulley and the timing scale for ignition. There is no TDC mark on the Z series head for cam sprocket checking so what I do is look through the top hole in the sprocket and directly between the two rocker arm towers for a small vertical casting mark... The back of your cam sprocket should have a V or U notch in it. Confirm that the V is below or perhaps just slightly to the right of the line and NOT to the left of it. Like below...
  6. The screech sound was only when the clutch pedal was down to the floor? This could be a dry release bearing
  7. good vid. didn't know the 720 had all that crap on ther
  8. Today
  9. Usasaly the person who removen the dist put it back in 180 off and the rotor locks stillits its orginal position in the spindal. so one can move the plug wires 180 deg and that will still work. Just the vacuum advance will be 180in the opposite direction. so more or less one can install the oil/dist spindal off and one can install the dist house 180deg off
  10. Also, after starting it up twice from being cold I heard a loud screeching sound coming from what could be the clutch after putting in first, the sound goes way and doesnt come back.
  11. Big vibration shakes the truck pretty violently for about 1-2 seconds. I started the truck today after leaving it parked overnight and the symptoms were gone, this is probably why I didn't feel the shaking during test drive . It seems like the symptoms come after a long drive, like when I drove it home it was pretty far then I drove to a friends house so I put some miles on it yesterday. Could it be the clutch heating up and not working properly?
  12. Here are some of the goodies I've aquired since this project started. Waiting for the right moment to add on. Not exactly as shown but leaving this option till last. Have another idea before this one. All of these items I bought separately but have fit them together for a visual. Not sure about the throttle linkage set up?Mock up in reverse. Will match port prior to permanent installation.
  13. I removed both to clean and regasket but I have no idea how to adjust it so I assume it didn’t change but I’d like to see how I can adjust it.
  14. Thanks for the suggestion. Funny thing, while I was walking the pouches in the back roads, I came across what looks like reminisce of an engine under armour rock plate, just lying there, so I picked it up and used it to cover the hole in the floor board. Custom fit over the floor board hole, drilled several small holes through both metals and glued in between to seal, then riveted altogether. Quite solid, but finished off by coating the under side of the floor pan with weather resistant spray in a can.
  15. There was a guy in the UK doing about the same thing. He used my old 510, lets see if i can find a few photo's of that
  16. My B210 has an insulator that went with the hitachi. I have been using it with my weber, but I have to make more gaskets when they dry out. My question is this: Will paper gaskets provide sufficient heat insulation between the intake and the weber so that I do not need to use the insulator? So instead of having a gasket-small heat shield - gasket - insulator - gasket - adapter - gasket - weber, I could just go gasket - adapter - gasket - weber? I do live in southern arizona, so that might be a considering factor. Thanks in Advance, az_rat
  17. Howdy folks I recently purchased this 720 and I’ve been chasing problems from the very start. I think I’ve narrowed it down to one final mistake from the previous owner. When I got the truck, my distributor would have to be fully advanced to get the timing at 0* tdc. I knew this was screwy so I went to the oil pump spindle to figure out why it was off. Sure enough, when at tdc on compression stroke it was almost 180* off from where it should be. I reindexed it to the proper position and was able to get my timing in a normal 5* btdc with the distributor pretty much in the middle of the adjusting bracket. After doing that the engine ran much much better but I’ve noticed a lack of acceleration on take off and a definite cam rattle. This was confirmed when I pulled the valve cover off and saw score marks towards the front of the cam between the lobes, petering out towards the firewall. I set the engine to tdc again and examined the cam sprocket in relation to the shiny link on the timing chain that the previous owner replaced. It is 2-3 teeth off where my manual says the “bright” link should align with the #2 punch hole. Is there any easy fix that wouldn’t require taking the front cover off and just reindexing the cam itself? Thank you for any response I’m losing my mind over this thing.
  18. OK, so here is what should happen when starting the engine cold. If you start with a cold engine, you step on the gas peddle in preparation to starting. This does two things. It squirts raw fuel into the intake from the accelerator pump, and it releases the choke which had cooled and reset itself. When the choke is released and closes by stepping on the peddle it also releases the fast idle cam which drops down between the throttle speed adjustment and it's stop. This holds the throttle open slightly and raises the engine speed during warm up, usually 5-10 min. depending how cold it is. While warming, the choke relaxes and slowly opens fully and at this point if you again step lightly on the gas the fast idle cam pulls up out of the way and the throttle can now close on it's warm idle speed stop and the engine idles normally. Did you remove or adjust the BCDD? This thing... Or that white set screw the the nut on it? BTW there's nothing wrong with reusing old gaskets if not torn. None of them seal in gas just vapors.
  19. Is this just a rattle/sound you hear, or can you feel it in the body of the truck as a vibration?
  20. I thought that’s what it could be but the cable is loose as it was before and it doesn’t do it when it’s cold.
  21. CS130 is that the output 30? Nissan are labeled this way like LR160 for a 60 amp.
  22. Here’s a fun fact.... the alternator that’s factory in my 1990 trooper (2.8 gm v6) is the same alternator I’ve installed in my 620. It’s a cs130. The fit was tight but it does fit and it does work.
  23. The truck is lowered on 3 inch blocks in the rear not sure how much on the front. I will check the rubber surround today. Any idea where I can purchase the rubber surround and rubber mounts ? In case that is the problem. Today is day two of owning the truck so I will give you guys an update. Thanks for all the help.
  24. That is why I passed on the 240z I was offered. WAY too much work for my old ass...
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