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  1. Today
  2. I just had a customer with a 720 who went through some water crossings and afterwards was experiencing a dead battery after a day or two. It was the alternator.
  3. They both need one of those "I'M WITH STUPID" t shirts with the pointing fingers.
  4. That one of my thoughts too.If it's as good as the pictures look,I don't think I could go wrong.A Friend of mine near Sacramento has one.His odometer died with something like 450,000 miles on it. I was thinking about a 1985 Celica GT that I looked at,but it's an automatic.
  5. Rusty Dawg

    Gauges

    This is what is installed on my engine currently. I thought everything on this Datsun J13 engine was metric, but I shouldn't have assumed.
  6. Rusty Dawg

    Gauges

    IMG_5097.HEIC This is fitting I plan to use to install the temp gauge. This photo is of fitting on the (cracked) head that was on my truck when I bought it. The tube will have to be no more than 3/8" thick with standard thread size of 5/8". I will in fact go with teflon on both.
  7. I call bullshit on those claimed MPG's. Vehicles are thru the roof. Its a truck and a Hardbody. Looks ready to roll. You could easily do worse.
  8. My '95 Dakota has major rust underneath,& looks like it'll be a parts truck. The steering box pulled off of the frame. I'll need transportation.What are your thoughts on this? roanoke.craigslist.org/cto/d/cloverdale-1995-nissan-truck/7415799878.html
  9. Get a name brand Dexron ATF. It's in the factory service manual FSM... anything else, like a Haynes isn't really a manual. Try to fine a 1980 Nissan published FSM on line. It's the bible on your 720. Should be replaced along with the filter every 30,000 miles or sooner if over heated. Never tow with an automatic. You need about 6 US quarts. Drain and replace the filter. Clean the pan and magnetic drain plug. Install pan with new gasket and fill to the full line on the dip stick. Remove the return line at the transmission and direct into a container. Start engine and idle till about one quart is expelled and shut off. Add a fresh quart to the fill tube to top up the transmission. Repeat this to rinse out the fluid trapped in the torque converter and coolant lines till the new bright clear fluid comes out. Expect at least 2 or three extra quarts. You'll never get all the old oil out, best you can do is get most of it.
  10. Clutch is still being made, it won't be sprung which sucks if you want to use if for more of a street car. We are also re scanning the block tonight, need motor mount hold patterns.
  11. Somehow it's just not low enough. They're politicians for god's sake.
  12. Yesterday
  13. How about dumber and dumbest ?
  14. Hey All, I have a 1980 720 and I am about to change the transmission fluid. I have a couple questions 1. I don't when the last time the transmission fluid was changed and it has 171,000 miles. I heard if you drain all the fluid you can do damage to the truck. Any thoughts on how I should tackle this? 2. The manual isn't telling me what kind of fluid to use so I am curious on what you guys prefer? Looking for fluid that is found at Autozone, Orileys, or Nappa
  15. Now you're just insulting dumb people. Don't you have a 3rd option? Something a little lower. Like the dopey duo?
  16. Look, it's dumb and dumber. Not specifying left to right. Choose your own order.
  17. No it connects to the stock air filter. Under certain conditions flow is reversed and the fumes are directed inside the air filter where they are sucked down through the carburetor and burned. I know the little blue filters are very trendy and cute, but the fumes just empty into the engine compartment and enter the cabin. Also any oil just drips off it onto the engine. Trust the original design.
  18. its a 1971 521 im a little slow on the up take (me) not the car so much but ill get the plugs and slow walk the info, is there a filter that goes on that pcv ill keep you posted thanks for the pictures and info
  19. Transmissions are not cheap to have another one installed. I got a Jasper remanufactured one from a Jasper installer. It came with a 3 year or 100,000 mile warranty just like my Jasper engine.Another installer had one for a year warranty but it was about the same price.I also got a new yoke installed.Hard to find any one to go in your transmission and fix it cause it's hard to find parts and more easier for them to just install another one.A lot of people won't put that kind of money in a old 720.But I will in a New York minute.My wife had a Jasper transmission installed in her 2004 lincoln LS.
  20. Generic but has correct number of terminals. It's not the wrong one. So where are the sparks coming out of the bottom????
  21. Oil should be selected based on the lowest expected temperature till the next change. From 0F and up 10w30 is fine. If never below 20F any 20w oil will do. Never run a 5w or 10w oil above 60F. I run only in the summer with temperatures above 60F so 15w40 works well for me. New oil has reduced their ZDDP levels to about half what they used to be when our Datsuns were new. Diesel oils are the cheapest easiest way to maintain the correct ZDDP levels and is universally available. There are others but I use Shell Rotella T4. Synthetic is too expensive for protection you will NEVER need. In my experience it leaks out of old engine seals. If the synthetic lasts 12K between changes you will probably have added 4 quarts in that time to keep topped up, so what have you really saved?
  22. It's hard for the synchros to squeeze the cold thick oil out of the way for engagement. I think you'll find the synthetic really improves down shifting. I don't down shift coming to a stop using engine compression, I just slip out of gear once slow enough and let the clutch up. This lessens the wear on the synchros and the release bearing. Brake pads and shoes are way cheaper and easier to change than clutch discs and release bearings. I start in neutral, clutch up to lessen the wear on the crankshaft thrust bearings and also the release bearing. Of course there are times that conditions change, like a light turning green, or where you might need to accelerate and are in too high a gear and a quick down gear is necessary but overall brakes are for slowing down not down shifting.
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