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  3. Thanks for such quick replies! I'll be adjusting the timing sprocket tomorrow night. Strangely, when i pulled the sprocket off originally it was set to the number 3 timing hole. And i see my images didn't upload, so here are some links if you care to look. My timing mark is set to the left of the timing mark on the thrust plate. Those small degrees could be setting the timing off bad enough to spit through the carburetor? And to answer your question, yes i used a chain locking wedge that i fab'd myself out of some old plywood. Is there a problem if i dont? From what I've read on this forum, dropping the chain without a wedge can create some issue with putting the sprocket back on. Is that primarily the issue that comes to light or does that affect other things? https://imgshare.io/image/UGJXe https://imgshare.io/image/UGH5w https://imgshare.io/image/UGcL8 https://imgshare.io/image/UGTjK https://imgshare.io/image/UGqlS
  4. Scrapson

    Bent valve?

    I think it skipped a tooth because it wouldn’t idle at all and it might be the tensioner I don’t really know. That makes more sense now so I have to put the head back on and the sprocket to do it? Well I didnt think about the timing till I was like huh maybe it skipped a tooth or two or more. It idled at like what sounded like two grand to twenty five hundred but it just was just awful. It just started randomly it accelerated with some hesitation. Also it made clanking noise when it high idled like that. I thought it might be the valve slapping the cylinder or something in the timing chain area broke. I would like to think maybe it was just it skipping a tooth. I don’t plan on selling it either I have time invested into it and effort for me to wanna sell it maybe when it blows a rod through the block but otherwise no.
  5. Rays74

    L16 queries

    That's what I thought......pretty high for today's ethanol laced crap 🙂 The sinking valve issue I have delt with on another W53 (closed chamber) and it's a bummer to live with a good performing head that's slowing chewing through a valve seat. You mention the U67 Mike, would the open W53 be comparable compression wise? That number sounds on target. Hainz I will see about swapping the dist between my pick up and the wagon for a day just to see if there's diff..... and yes the lash pad is very close to flush level with the retainer bucket. Thanks fellas
  6. ill look for 1 but not finding many parts in my area.
  7. banzai510(hainz)

    Bent valve?

    You was Supposed to break the crank bolt same time as the cam spocket bolt for just this case if something went bad.in the vedio rubber thingy?? The tensioner w the spring? how you know you skipped a tooth? I’m
  8. I am winging it if you have another distributor. I finally wore out mine with excessive wiggle so I put another in there and I don’t have detonation going up hill anymore.So it must be a different adv weights in there or something .12 deg I have a L16 w U67 head. I do have run on with my Weber carb Is the lash pad flush on the retainer? the W53 would help and less prone to detonation plus you could match port the head and intake bigger
  9. Eric Schlichte mailto:eric.schlichte@comcast.net reached out to me looking for help putting on a Datsun or “Japanese Car Weekend” to support one of two SOVREN vintage car races at Pacific Raceways. This sounds like an awesome opportunity to build a really cool event in the NW. If you or your club would like to get in on the ground floor, or know someone (or another club) that would, please get in touch with Eric. Here is what he had to say: Thanks for getting back with this. We have two open dates on our calendar for next season. Spring Sprints is April 24-26 and Fall Finale is September 26-27. What I would like is to make is an annual Datsun or “Japanese car” weekend. You’re club would run and promote a car show at the track. Our club rents the track, so for now the venue cost is put in by us. (The bean counters will fight about this later) We take about 3/4 of the paddock at these two smaller races so initially we can fit about 200 plus of your cars. The track is making improvements and paving more space in the coming years. Please look at the CRC/ “all British field meet” in Portland abfm-pdx.com to get an idea of what can be done. It’s a successful SOVREN event. They have a rally, swap meet, Land Rover test drives, Jaguar test drives, music, guests, autocross, etc. we’re flexible on a lot of that. We could add a combined track day the Friday before to let your club members try lapping. In the future maybe even national convention? We’ve changed the requirements to let in newer cars so the field is getting more Japanese cars, especially Datsun, they seem to be the in car right now. Thanks again for your time, lots more to talk about if you’re interested. Eric PNWH vintage racing charities I hope someone picks this up and runs with it. I know I can’t personally give it the time it would need otherwise I’d already be working with Eric. --carter
  10. I have done the technique that mike has done as well, with good results. I used a beer can box though
  11. Scrapson

    Bent valve?

    So I know now that it’s just the timing chain skipped a tooth but it’s nice to know that headgasket has been redone. I’ve seen oil pan leaks and how to prevent them with some oil RTV by some I mean a moderate to large amount. I also do want to find where my timing chain parts went because the rail has a piece missing I think and there’s a little rubber thingy just floating around in the timing chain housing atleast it looks like rubber I couldn’t take it out. The garage mechanic does sound like a great option but I don’t want to pay that money and it’s my senior project as a requirement to graduate. I live in the sticks of the valley in Oregon so there not uncommon just pricey. I also like doing all the work myself it’s fun 9 times out of 10 but sometimes it’s a pain in the ass. How would I break the pulley bolt loose would I have to put the head back on? Because In the video correct me if I’m wrong I was half asleep but it looked like it was still on.
  12. @wayno Really appreciate the detailed info! Im working the night shift again. so i will try and work on this in the morning when i get off. Hopefully come back with some good news. Haha. Thanks again really appreciate it
  13. I would first do what Hainz said and try turning the engine over with a breaker bar, you only need to turn it one turn. If it turns then I would jump the starter motor to see if it works, get a big flat edge screw driver, there are 3 connections on the starter solenoid, the main power cable from the battery, the small wire from the ignition, and the other large post that has a large short cable going to the starter motor itself, with that screw driver I jump from the main post with the cable coming from the battery to the main post that goes to the starter motor, now you make sure the transmission is in neutral and the e-brake is on, if the starter motor runs/turns over then the motor is good, when it does run/turn over it may turn the engine over or it may not turn the engine over, it depends on what is going in inside the solenoid, if it does run/turn over then I would jump from the main post that goes to the battery to the small post the wire from the ignition goes to and see if it turns over the motor, if it does then the issue is somewhere else. This is how I get my engines to start when I have issues with the key making that clicking sound, but your truck has sat for a long time likely in a field, stuff starts to rust out in the weather, but clicking usually means the solenoid is not rusted up solid. Be very careful when jumping the starter this way above, you can accidentally ground out the screw driver if your not careful.
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