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Duncan last won the day on June 29 2019

Duncan had the most liked content!

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About Duncan

  • Rank
    Beer Hound
  • Birthday February 17

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  • Interests
    Beer, beer, girls, and beer
  • Occupation
    Retired as of 6/18/15!

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  1. Found a spot of info on that van... https://www.hotrod.com/articles/1960-morris-j2-slug-van/
  2. I like the way binding looks, but top-bound guitars bug the shit out of me as it scrapes my arm. I have a natural Korina Robben Ford model that was made for me, and I have only played it once at a gig due to the binding. The natural binding looks good, and you can roll the edge ever-so-slightly so it doesn't irritate so much.
  3. That thing is fucking cool! Sign me up for one, too...
  4. Got this painted and looking sexy again. I was able to drive it out to Cars and Coffee in San Clemente last Saturday, and had a great time. I'm having more medical issues, so my plan is to drive the wagon more, and work on it less while the docs get me tuned up again. I just got my Medicare card the other day, so I must be getting old!
  5. Thanks for the report. My wagon is kind of on hold right now. I have another round of health problems I'm dealing with, and my wagon is running and driving well, I don't want to start messing with it. I'm very interested in seeing how your project turns out. Good luck!
  6. I just got a letter today telling me 2 of the 3 mags I subscribe to are now tits up. They are offering me a digital subscription to just 1 magazine, but I have to choose one from three that are available. You'd think they'd give me two, but I guess it's better than nothing.
  7. I have that same heater in my wags. Parts for it are always a major challenge. Yours looks like it's in decent shape. 👍 I'm liking the heater/cigarette lighter combo, too....
  8. I'm thinking I may have a Z fuel sender in my wags. It reads from 0 to 130 ohms. Anyway I made it work, and I'm using it. With a good light and an inspection mirror, I was able to see enough into the tank and bend the sender enough to where it moves up and down freely. I didn't need to cut a section out, thankfully. After some fine-tuning, (bending) when the tank has 1 gallon left, the needle is just slightly to the left of the first mark at the "E" side of the gauge. When the tank is full, it shows about 3/4 full on the gauge. I'm not overly concerned where it shows as full, but it's nice to know when it shows close to empty, that side of the gauge is accurate.. I helped contribute to California's water shortage after filling and emptying the tank multiple times today. I feel so guilty... I scuffed up the tank rather well sliding it in and out under the car multiple times, so I'm going to repaint the bottom half of it and reinstall it this week. I've been more-or-less dreading doing this project for months, and I'll be glad to have it done.
  9. Looks like it's ready for the track 👍 It's low and mean. How's it ride now?
  10. I do play a Fender, and my sender is in the bender.... I'm killin' me.....
  11. You really don't need to get to into the hatch area to take out the tank. The rear access plate is the rear one near the hatch opening. (The one closer to the back seat is my battery box and not factory) You really don't have to take it off or empty out the cargo area. You can lower the tank just a small bit and reach the sender easily enough. The various lines and tubes require a bit more work, and they can only be reached from under the car. When you climb under the car and check it out, it's pretty simple really. The hard part is fighting all the old stiff, brittle hoses that have been on the car forever...
  12. I've only worked on my wagon, and it's an import model, and mine doesn't have all the evap stuff on it inside the quarter panel. There should be a drain plug on the bottom of the tank. I would definitely drain it out and see how bad the fuel looks. I imagine if there's any in there, it would be pretty ugly and smell/look like varnish. If you're going to remove the tank, it should be empty, anyway.. Four bolts hold the tank in, two in the rear and two in the front. You have to disconnect the main filler tube on the side, and any attachments at the top of the tank. (fuel line to carb, vent line, and fuel sender) You can get to the fuel sender connections through the access plate on the cargo floor. It's actually not hard to to get it free, but you do have to fiddle with it a bit to get the various things free of the tank. I used my floor jack under it to drop it down just enough to get in there and undo the connections at the top of the tank. I got rid of the molded rubber filler tube a long time ago, and getting my custom one loose was a bit of a hassle, but it was doable. Fortunately, when I originally pulled the tank there wasn't really any rust in it. I stripped everything off of it, and put it in a hot tank for a day or two and called it good. That's all mine needed.
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