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iceman510

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Everything posted by iceman510

  1. It was Prince (who Nissan later bought/absorbed) did the design work on the L series engines. 'Tis true that they used Mercedes design as the basis. Current story line is that Pininfarina did not due any design work on the 510, though they did on the 410/411. 510 was done in-house. Referencing this link, though I won't personally vouch that everything they say is accurate either. https://www.motortrend.com/vehicle-genres/c12-0606-1973-datsun-510/ This one is decent as well. https://www.hemmings.com/stories/2017/09/25/datsuns-510-a-sport-sedan-for-the-common-man-marks-its-golden-anniversary
  2. He has the cool billet one already. I paint the lip on mine and the lines on the glovebox emblem to match the exterior of the car. I think I even did the lip of the heater control panel too on one car.
  3. For a 1975 620 they should be metric, not SAE, 12mm x 1.25mm thread (maybe 1.0 but unlikely. I would have to physically check one again). The pressure plate bolts should be 8 x 1.25mm, so not graded by SAE values like grade 5 or 8. Get metric 10.9 grade.
  4. You could go the 280X strut route, but that would include changing the brakes, as there would be no point to put 510 brakes on those struts. You can also lower it using the stock 510 struts. Best would be to shorten them instead of just shorter springs. Looks like you have a way to do down. Almost looks like Rallye springs may be in there. The rear height definitely does not look stock. Different springs or sagged?
  5. Well there was that little dustup called the 100 Years' War. 😉
  6. I need a local upholsterer this good.
  7. Photos working for me as well. You may want to look into sealing around the edges where the radiator meets the body. Gaps there allow air to pass through that does not go through the radiator and reduces cooling.
  8. What browser are you using? Maybe try a different one if you are not seeing it. It is plain as day normally at the bottom of the reply window.
  9. iceman510

    Building a L18

    Jeff Winter of Rallye-sport in Colorado used to make a nice high-rise manifold for sidedrafts. I don't see it on the website anymore, so not sure if he still has it in production. https://rallye-sport.com/
  10. I have to say, being in the business, if it was no longer needed, it would have been gone. Cost savings always win (sometimes over quality). That would have saved material cost and labor cost if it were removed.
  11. iceman510

    Building a L18

    Lots of great input in these two posts. I think the advice about getting out there before building (or while building) a killer engine is great. I have one of those cast aluminum oil pans too. Not sure I want to risk it on the vintage race car. Might put it on the street car, or just mount it on the wall and admire it. I had a set of brand new in box 44 Mikunis, but I sold them. Instead I have 45 Webers. Wish I had kept the Mikunis. The old parts are definitely fun to mess around with. My 69 street car has some Mullholland and Interpart parts on it. OP- I have multiple headers here. Not all perfect, but budget minded if interested.
  12. iceman510

    Building a L18

    Incidentally, if you are in PA, I am in Michigan. I have lots of L engine parts, including some L18 parts, and some to make L16/18 hybrid (frankenstein) combinations. If you need some things I might be able to supply them. I am planning on getting back into vintage B sedan type racing, and may need some of them, but the car I am likely getting has an L18 and a L20B already. Probably need to keep one L18 setup as backup. Also have spare oil pans if you need something to modify/get modified (DP racing makes these). Also heard of another guy, Armando's Racing Pans out of El Paso Texas, but I have never talked to him.
  13. iceman510

    Building a L18

    That is not a simple answer. All the factors need to be considered together. Piston shape/compression ratio Camshaft specs Carburetion and venturi size Valve sizes Spring specs Porting and on and on... get the How to Modify your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine book, and read it thoroughly. Or hire someone to build you one.
  14. iceman510

    Building a L18

    Not necessarily true depending on with whom/ what class he plans to run, but OP did not elaborate, so your point may be correct.
  15. I have spare 4 speeds, but way over here in Michigan. Available if needed.
  16. I'll have to look a positioning when on the car, but maybe a hold-down location for shipment?
  17. Loved those Thomas maps. I always used one when visiting LA. My brother lived there for 30+ years and still used it. Funny how with GPS and google maps people think you can't get anywhere without them. I have traveled all over the country and coast to coast a few times and always made it there without GPS for the first 5 decades of my life. The thing I hate worst is someone directing me with GPS. I hate not knowing direction or the general idea of where I am or going. That is why I scout out everything ahead of time. I have a pretty good innate sense of direction and know N from S usually.
  18. I work for a major Japanese auto maker. Vehicles that now have telematics require you to opt out of data collection. The company is building a big-data environment to collect usage patterns (especially charging station usage) for electric and other vehicles. Sound great to improve out customer satisfaction and quality, but how long until it is subpoenaed to track or review your whereabouts. I know it can already be done with your cell phone too in many cases. I personally never turn my location on and use paper maps rather than Google if at all possible.
  19. How long did you have to wait for the auction to get published?
  20. I began using Redline products in my Mitsubishi FWD transmissions years ago. they offered a 75W85 GL4 (safe for brass synchros) that matched requirements. with that. For my older Datsuns (RWD), I have used mostly Valvoline, but I would have to confirm what viscosity. I will be using a 280ZX trans in my 510 here in the near future, but I have not researched yet what viscosity that requires. I will probably choose Redline if I find a match. I wouldn't really worry about synthetic leaks. This application is not pressurized, and you can certainly change the rear seal relatively easily if there is a problem.
  21. I live in Michigan outside Detroit, and closer to Lansing (liberal state capitol). All the falsely sincere news people this week were talking about how Michigan hospitals are "overwhelmed", but the Johns Hopkins numbers still show ICU space across the state. Not saying it might not be higher than normal, but not overwhelmed.
  22. "Run it up to marketing". Yes, because that is certainly "science". So why is "recovered" "still healing"? What bullshit.
  23. I don't have the full data at my fingertips, but the 2000's era R180 Subie diffs are generally either 3.90 or 3.54. they change depending on the front differential ratio used (some 1:1, some 1.1:1) There are also multiple types, for certain clutch and Torsen. I don't know of any 4.11 or higher R180s. You can do a CV conversion with shafts from other sources than Datsun Restomods, but most use stub axles and adapters (Futofab, Ermish, Driveshaft shop) not the OE type axle assembly with integral shafts like Restomods made (makes?). Looks like Futofab has both options. http://www.futofab.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id=38&Itemid=122 More info: http://www.futofab.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=173:subaru-wrx-sti-conversion-stub-axles&catid=38:datsun-drivetrain&Itemid=122
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