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Everything posted by datzenmike

  1. Won't pass visual emissions. Actually easier to keep it in working order than remove it Good chance of causing problems removing it. Will run the same with poorer mileage. Gas smell in the cab. Oil needs changing more often and engine dirtier inside.
  2. Wow those heels are way out of style...
  3. datzenmike

    74 610 Goon

    It should, the mounting bolts are vertical. The zx master will move more volume than the smaller 610 master which has to travel farther to do so and may feel mushy. I have a 15/16" on my 710 brake booster with Maxima calipers and love the feel. The S13/14 calipers use a 15/16" master (horizontal mounting bolts) with anti lock brakes and 7/8" without. The calipers are larger than the stock 610 calipers so this should work well.
  4. L and Z series engines are interference engines so if valves are mistakenly at full lift or the chain breaks while running, pistons will hit at TDC.
  5. That's someones daughter, but not mine, so I guess it's ok.
  6. Feb '76 about half way into the '76 model year. 32,909 KCs were made through July '76.
  7. Consumables like brake shoes and pads and ball joints for suspension and steering can be ordered at NAPA, Bumper to Bumper any auto parts store. I bough some Centric rear shoes for my 710 from Amazon for $9 on sale. Body parts are much harder. Bumpers? no market so not likely to find any in a store. Try wrecking yards, e=bay or post an ad in out classifieds... ...https://ratsun.net/classifieds/category/9-datsun-parts/ For struts you can swap 280zx struts onto the A10. You may need 14" rims to clear the much larger vented rotor and massive caliper. It's a hell of a brake upgrade.
  8. Was it or could it be driven on the street? Not sure today if racing may be a safer way to spend the last 20 years.
  9. No. The large front two bearings do support the fronts of the main and counter shafts, and there are smaller bearings at the back that do the same. In the middle are the adapter plate bearings and they don't look good at all.
  10. Matt if you ever get up this way DO this road past Duffy Lake. Starts about 4 min in. I always try to include Hwy. 99 on my vacation. The pavement is as perfect as the scenery. It's just one of those roads the general public doesn't know about because there are faster and easier ways to get there.
  11. '73 through '77 all bolt to the bed. The '73-'74 probably didn't have a return line that the L20B needs. The '75 through '77 are the closest match iteration. '78 and '79s bolt to the frame but a smart person could probably make it work on the bed.
  12. I was stopped at a DUI checkpoint one night and asked what I was going. I replied that I was minding my own business. Where are you headed? I pointed to the windshield. For some reason the courts here allow the police to do this as long as they stop EVERYBODY. It's an illegal stop and a fishing expedition under the guise of stopping impaired drivers. I told them why not set up near the bar down the road to increase their chances. It's bullshit. BTW I don't drink and I don't like impaired drivers either, they're only slightly above child molesters, but I don't like being stopped worse.
  13. Well if fuel related we should eliminate the fuel pump relay. It's job is to only allow the fuel pump to work under certain conditions. In a accident the pump would keep pumping which could be a bad thing if a rollover or fire. They can be problematic so give this article a good read... https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/The-Datsun-and-Nissan-Pickup-Fuel-Pump-Relay-What-the-Haynes-Automotive-Repair-Manual-Wont-Tell-You ... There is a jumper wire you can make to eliminate the relay and keep the pump working. If the problem goes away it can be assumed the relay is working intermittently.
  14. OK..... 1.18mm installed and wow that's not good. idle mix is close enough but it rises when ever the gas is pushed. I'll try moving the needles higher to make it richer but 125 or 130 might be better. While it would idle reasonably well in the high 17s it sure doesn't like it when there's a load.
  15. Ray, was there a 283 in the Apache? First engine I ever worked on was a 283 although I was more eager that capable and was cleaning parts for my neighbor who was rebuilding his. This was in the almost mid '60s and it was definitely NOT new. I seem to remember it having small wrap around side/rear windows. I think single headlamps.... it was over 50 years ago.
  16. It might come with a bearing, I don't know, but there's only been one confirmed case of the bearing being bad. It has almost no load on it and allows the driveshaft to spin inside the 'doughnut'. It's a bother to change it. I would save the bearing and just change the 'doughnut'. Hell I had a bad doughnut and wrapped a strip of rubber conveyor belt around the driveshaft and clamped it in. It worked so well I forgot about it for 3 years till I took the drive shaft out.
  17. The stock steelies with shiny caps are elegant. Like a pearl necklace, evening dress or sweater, it goes with anything a woman can wear.
  18. 520/521 and 620 should work. Wayno or another 521 freak will know. 😄
  19. No... it should work fine.
  20. datzenmike

    521 on BAT

    Here... rinse your mouth out.
  21. datzenmike

    My 1971 521

    This would of course assume a perfect cylindrical, machined and honed cylinder wall. I've done a couple of quick hone and ring jobs on an L16 and L20B in the 70s using chrome rings because they were the 'best.' It reduced the oil burning but it was not at all 'like new' and within a year I was back where I started. I now know I should have spent time measuring the bore wear and maybe just used plain cast iron rings for a better break in seal.
  22. Everything is relative. I live vicariously through your posts Ray. 👍
  23. God no, anything but PB.
  24. You could also squirt Windex on the exhaust manifolds and compare how hot they are or 'shoot' with a borrowed IR gun.
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