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Everything posted by datzenmike

  1. Adding shims evenly will add negative camber, removing an even amount will add positive camber. More or less shims on the front or back will adjust the caster.
  2. datzenmike

    521 vs 620 Tailgate

    620 and 520/521 tailgates are different. In fact, the closest thing about them is the Datsun stamping.
  3. These engines will never need the extra protection of a synthetic oil. Pretty soon you'll notice oil leaking from the front seal or the oil pan or around the fuel pump or who knows where. Stuff is too thin, too expensive and too damn slippery and made for new cars. Rather get a diesel oil like Shell RotellaT4. Its still got the same high ZDDP levels all oils used to have. I'm running 20w40 but I see that it also comes in 10w30. I would never run anything under 10 unless in Alaska.
  4. Is there a threaded hole for a power valve??? Because if there is, there needs to be one.
  5. Can't be driven so who knows what's right or wrong with it. Steering, brakes, suspension, drive train, engine, clutch, locking hubs, electrical...? If you do the wrench turning a blown head gasket is about $30 to fix... bet the owner didn't know to block the chain tensioner and it fell out and he gave up. You may luck out but doon't expect to be on the road soon. This is a long process of replacing what's bad, as you find out about it. Take a chance, we're here to help.
  6. Mine's my back yard. Slight roof overhang from a lean to stuffed with junk parts. Shade tree sometimes. Have a work table, vice, welder with an extension I run through the bathroom window to get to the laundry drier plug, small drill press, grinder, belt sander. I also have a 130 foot heavy gauge extension cord for power tools. Any work depends on the weather, mostly rain.
  7. I have all my photos and many on a hard drive. I only put photos that I wanted into a hosting site I would never store them there. In this day and age storage space is cheap and getting cheaper and larger and larger. Look at you-tube, they store 300 hours of viewing every minute!!!!!!! every friggin' minute. That's 12.5 days worth every minute. 432,000 hours a day. So fuck FB and their whining.
  8. datzenmike

    Egr valve

    EGR Exhaust Gas Recirculation. Yes you can most definitely run without it but you must make sure the intake is sealed against air leaks if you remove the valve. The exhaust end can be removed and a pipe plug used the seal any exhaust leak or trim to 2" and pinch closed with vice grips then fold over.
  9. Well I couldn't find anything wrong with Carburetor #2 so I made a gasket for it and traced out 4 more so I have one extra. The tiny O ring gaskets are flattened so I'll just put thee right on top.
  10. EI systems do not need them. All Datsuns have had EI systems since '78. Some California vehicles had them before this.
  11. datzenmike

    my 1974 dats

    One of the wires from the ignition is hot in the ON position and goes to one side of the resistor, the other side of the resistor goes to the positive side of the coil. The second wire from the ignition is only hot in the START position and it also goes to the positive side of the coil. It works like this... During start a full 12 volts goes to the coil for better spark during the cranking of the engine. When the key returns to ON it is disconnected and only the voltage that is dropped to around 7-8 volts going through the resister gets to the positive side of the coil. Don't think about running the full 12 volts through the coil as it wil over heat and the points will burn out in as little as 50 miles. The negative side of the coil is connected to the distributor and the points which make and break contact to ground to produce a spark. Buy a $5 test lamp. It has a small 12 v light bulb and a length of wire with an alligator clip on one end and a sharp pointy probe. Clip one end to ground and touch the pointer to any wire and it will light up if there is power.
  12. Experiment to find what works
  13. I click on your picture and select copy image then come to Ratsun and hit Ctr and V
  14. First year with the seamless outside bed and the inner liner. Look alright!
  15. Gas absorbs heat to evaporate. If near freezing it can chill the casting well below freezing and if there is high humidity it will collect frost just like a freezer. On my engine, the venturi was covered and that destroyed the vacuum signal that pulls gas in. Power drops off and your foot goes slowly to the floor till it quits. It will restart and idle just fine but you can't drive away. Within a minute suddenly it's fine and you drive away only to have it repeat again in a couple of blocks. The coolant warmed intake doesn't help as it can't warm the carburetor. The only way is to add heat to the intake air via the ATC. I find freezing rain, fog near freezing or melting snow near freezing provide the two things needed, cold and humidity.
  16. The engine ID is stamped into the right side of the block. I'm not sure exactly where. IF it was an A12 it has to be the later one from a 210. The early one was on the 1200 but not the B-210 and had the distributor nearer the front. I don't think it's an A12.
  17. Well, physical castration/amputation doesn't really serve a purpose after the fact, other than as a possible deterrence to others and some satisfaction for those who are wronged... which pretty much defines revenge. It can be done pain free so then wouldn't be defined as physical torture.
  18. A 14 from B-210, A15 maybe, from later 210. Fuel rail looks kind of stock so JDM import engine.
  19. Check the valve lash (hot) and the timing. Shouldn't cost much to do this and it eliminates them as a cause. As it is cheap and I doubt that you have ever checked, replace the fuel filter. If getting plugged it reduces fuel flow. Under full throttle high demand the carburetor may be emptying faster than the gas can get in to keep it full. If it doesn't help it probably needed doing anyway. Inspect the plugs, cap rotor and wires. NGK plugs only, B6ES 0.030 gap. High voltage ALWAYS looks for the shortest path to ground, ALWAYS. So you have to make the spark plug the only path by assuring that the wires cap and rotor are in good shape and highly insulated. Check the black plastic tower on the coil under the high tension nipple for any cracks or 'carbon tracking' which will present as looking like a crack. This is a spot where a spark has burned a path and will continue to leak voltage and jump onto the negative terminal nearby. This little crack caused me random just off idle sputtering for years till I accidentally discovered it.
  20. Not sure if I could pull off connecting all the runners properly or neatly. Hoses might blow off in a backfire. Also it might end up a one piece manifold while at the moment it's two pieces. A one piece might not align on the head or the carburetors but with two pieces there's some wiggle room. Manifold vacuum is usually around 22 Hg but the pump pulls over 25 so maybe a slight increase in braking performance. Maybe. With the new battery and only side posts now, my electric fans need to be somehow connected to a non switched source. So does my stereo and because my digital oil pressure gauge drops 15 pounds when the headlights are on, it could use a good solid power source too. Then there's the O2 gauge....
  21. Right, I wonder who's in SD. Does it get withing several degrees if freezing? Freezing rain? Near freezing and fog? It will still run better.
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