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Everything posted by datzenmike

  1. datzenmike


    This. Yes, is the fan even working? Are the heater hoses looped together? A thermostat change won't fix that.
  2. You may feel a roughness in the clutch pedal when you push it down to the floor during the screech, maybe it is all the time.
  3. datzenmike


    Well where is the electric fan during all this????? IT should be doing all the cooling work when stopped. I have two Subaru fans that are too wide to fit side by side so one is in front pushing and one is behind pulling with about 3" of overlap. To regulate the water temperature I have a 200sx fan temperature switch in line on the return rad hose. It's wired to the relay and a fuse directly to the battery. Often it will come on at the lights for 20 seconds then off for over a minute then on again and so on. When I park the car the fan can come on after I get out and lock it. Again for about 20 seconds. This is fool proof and I don't have to watch the gauge constantly, and I don't have to turn the fans on and off by hand. This gives the rad the maximum time to cool the water from normal air flow from driving. Only when the return water gets above 190? does the fan come on.
  4. Don't forget it SHOULD have a fast idle on cold start up. If the idle remains high after a 10 min warm up perhaps the choke is not shutting off.
  5. A foot is roughly .3 meter so .0003 Km ... that was easy but a better and more to the point question is how much is a foot in miles. Carpenters here still use ft and in. I heavily use metric measurement and terms at work (can't get any closer because it's actually my job as a surveyor) but if something is about a foot away I say foot rather than say 0.3, if a few inches I say inches. If an old plan was in feet and says 150 ft. I have to convert to Metric for it to mean much. 150 feet sounds like a lot but it's about 45 meters and I know what that looks like! Weird how I grew up with ft and in and miles but working with metric for over 30 years and no mileage signs or anything in ft and in and you struggle to make sense of what 12 feet is.
  6. I would keep the phenolic? insulator if at all possible. Nissan thought it was needed for the stock carb although the Weber may not, I just don't know. If making gaskets get extra thick material. Don't forget to use Loc-Tite on the adapter studs.
  7. Take the little rubber cover plug off the middle and turn the screw anti clockwise to reduce the sensitivity of the BCDD. The BCDD is turned on by high intake vacuum when decelerating. Normally the mixture goes so lean that is doesn't burn. The BCDD is a little mini carburetor within a carburetor that opens to supply gas and air during this time. When vacuum returns to normal is it supposed to shut off but sometimes it doesn't and you have a slight runaway idle. If this fixes the problem then this was the problem.
  8. The bright links are only for the initial placement of the chain and sprockets. As soon as the engine is started the bright links become random and line up maybe every 20 turns so don't go by that. Set TDC exactly* and only by turning clockwise. If you over shoot don't just back up, but back up 1/4 turn and try again even if it takes a dozen tries. *This is absolutely critical so use the notch on the crank pulley and the timing scale for ignition. There is no TDC mark on the Z series head for cam sprocket checking so what I do is look through the top hole in the sprocket and directly between the two rocker arm towers for a small vertical casting mark... The back of your cam sprocket should have a V or U notch in it. Confirm that the V is below or perhaps just slightly to the right of the line and NOT to the left of it. Like below...
  9. The screech sound was only when the clutch pedal was down to the floor? This could be a dry release bearing
  10. OK, so here is what should happen when starting the engine cold. If you start with a cold engine, you step on the gas peddle in preparation to starting. This does two things. It squirts raw fuel into the intake from the accelerator pump, and it releases the choke which had cooled and reset itself. When the choke is released and closes by stepping on the peddle it also releases the fast idle cam which drops down between the throttle speed adjustment and it's stop. This holds the throttle open slightly and raises the engine speed during warm up, usually 5-10 min. depending how cold it is. While warming, the choke relaxes and slowly opens fully and at this point if you again step lightly on the gas the fast idle cam pulls up out of the way and the throttle can now close on it's warm idle speed stop and the engine idles normally. Did you remove or adjust the BCDD? This thing... Or that white set screw the the nut on it? BTW there's nothing wrong with reusing old gaskets if not torn. None of them seal in gas just vapors.
  11. CS130 is that the output 30? Nissan are labeled this way like LR160 for a 60 amp.
  12. Well if you close your eyes you will be driving an Evo basically. To keep the illusion of a 510 try to keep it as 510 as possible including the dash. A RHD and weird dash will call too much attention to it is all. But hey, it's what ever you like and will be great.
  13. Some funny thinks happen in the transition from stopped.... to motion, in either direction. The chassis will absorb a lot of torque in first and reverse because of the transmission ratios that you don't get in higher gears. Weight transfers to the rear and the front lifts and the rear lowers. Reverse is opposite. Drive shaft angles change. The clutch changes from slipping to gripping. Two things come to mind.... The clutch disc has a ring of coil springs that compress and release energy during engagement. One side connects to the center and the other the disc itself. If damaged, it can cause harsh engagement called 'judder'. The other is the driveshaft. Wrapped around the stationery part surrounding the carrier bearing is a rubber surround. These always rot away over time and without this support the driveshaft is unstable under load and will wobble around. Others are: loose or damaged engine and/or transmission mount rubber isolaters or their mounting bolts. Removed leaves* to lower the body or broken leaves in the spring pack, loose U bolts holding them on. A lowered vehicle with uncorrected and poor drive line angles. Bad shock absorbers, worn out or leaking. *a very bad idea.
  14. Working my way towards that. It's the rubber surround that goes bad on the carrier not the bearing. Only bad confirmed bearing was metalmonkey's 620. Without the rubber support the driveshaft will flop around. But more of the shudder or thump than rattle.
  15. First and reverse are high torque gears. Would you say it shudders? Rattle implies something lose moving around.
  16. I didn't know there were two stopper pins. On the engine side probably between the two reservoirs, on the side is another stopper pin. Have a look...
  17. Spent way over an hour power washing the mold off but looks better. Did under the hood and each time it looks a bit cleaner. Tomorrow I'll take the wipers off their pivots and take the plenum cover off and clean out all the crap that must be in there. Two tires needed a bit of air. If really nice I'll start polishing the mags. Put battery charger on. My rear view fell off. Clean and vacuum the inside and empty out... OH THAT'S where my ratchet went!!!. Put pass side carpet back on the floor.
  18. datzenmike

    Intro 1st post

    Stock L20B are around 280.
  19. datzenmike


    Not enough coolant flow or not enough air flow. Coolant flow... Vertical rad tubes are crusty with hard water scale and blocking flow through them. Soft lower rad hose will collapse from water pump suction... mostly at higher speeds and RPMs Thermostat should be (185F is fine) or not opening fully. Usually affects higher speed than idle. Heater is leaking and heater hoses joined together in closed loop sending hot water back into the system without any cooling. Air flow.... Exterior radiator fins between tubes are damaged or blocked with dirt, bugs. Rad shroud was removed and forgotten to be put back on. Shrouds increase fan efficiency. Clutch fan excessively slipping. Usually more of a problem at higher speeds. Grill, bush bar or fog lights blocking air. Crusty tubes can be seen through the open rad cap if you lower the coolant level. Remove rad and with the cap on, lay face down with in and outlet up and fill with CLR and top with water. Let sit over night to dissolve the lime and calcium deposits. Never top up with tap water use distilled water and a good antifreeze/coolant. Clutch should turn by hand but be very firm. If you can free spin it the silicon clutch fluid has leaked out. If you can't turn it and bearing has seized. A heater is either removing heat from the coolant or is shut off. Never join hoses to by-pass without plugging one first. Or hot water from the block just goes right back into the block un-cooled. Probably 20% is by-passing the rad and it puts a strain on the cooling in the summer. Power wash the exterior of the rad to remove bugs and dirt. Rev it up way up and look at the bottom hose. If it tries to collapse the rad is likely part blocked with scale. This is my guess from hot top and cold bottom hose.
  20. datzenmike

    Datsun 620 Help

    The choke heater? This thing... Maybe unplugged at front of carb? It gets it's power from a relay that is only on when the alternator is charging (engine running) What you can do is connect the Blue choke heater wire to the Red idle cut solenoid wire. Both will have a Black covering but are Blue or Red underneath. Both wires travel around to the front of the carb and can be jumpered together there easier. The idle cut solenoid is powered any time the ignition is on. .
  21. http://www.infamousnissan.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37775
  22. Stanley is so lucky to have you for an owner. The new '80 720 went to 4 rectangular lamps as did the '80 A10 and the '80 S110 200sx. The 810 switched for '79 and the 210 in '79 1/2 the 280zx never did.... and so began a new design era that round lamps would clash with. Cars and trucks became more boxier less coke bottle swoopie.
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