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datzenmike

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Everything posted by datzenmike

  1. Unlikely you'll find one. A flair kit is $30 and you can always hope you need it again. Just pull the old one off and measure the length. Take it with your to check the threads and the flair matches a pre made brake line and get the same or next larger one. Make any size bends around a tapered baseball bat handle. Use a rubber mallet to 'hammer' into place and form around things.
  2. Maybe just the covers. What do the lenses say on them? Oh... Bosch Halogen and clear so probably driving lamps rather than fog.
  3. Do you have a round plastic 6 wire plug at the back of the carburetor or an O2 sensor in the exhaust manifold?
  4. He said the ball joints were replaced. Yes on the idler arm bushing wear. Another thing is steering box wear. There is an adjustment bolt with a lock nut on the box. Raise the wheels off the ground. Loosen the lock nut and turn the bolt in (IIRC) to remove play. Quickly turn the steering lock to lock with the engine off looking for any tightness. Have a care doing this as most wear or slack is in the middle. If you adjust it out it can be tighter a you turn off center. This must be avoided as it will just wear out the box faster. If you find any tight spots back the adjustment off. Don't forget to tighten the lock nut and check again. Worn or badly adjusted wheel bearings can also introduce some slop. Worn upper and lower control arm ball joints. An inch either way from center isn't too bad.
  5. This is positive camber. Yours are more negative off set like below and poke out too much Yours is just a poor choice in wheel width and off set. You want a rim that sets farther back into the car so the 'fender' can be lowered down over it or the tire go up inside the well on bumps.. Something with zero offset, or perhaps some positive off set. A 9" or 10" tire might not fit anyway. You could select more conservative tire width and a rim to match that has an off set that centers the wheel in the wheel well.... Or.... If keeping them and lowering, slice away the offending fender lip and cover this mutilation with wide flairs. There's no other option.
  6. Rubbing the fenders? wings?? that the correct word down there? Removing the positive camber would move the tops of the tires in towards the center away from the body. Lowering usually induces negative camber on struts and IRS. The stock suspension should not have positive camber, instead it should be fairly neutral. 14X 9 and 14 X 10s are not only too wide but probably the wrong rim off set making them stick out of the wheel wells.
  7. Do you have... cruise control
  8. Agreed. It's just a shock absorber most useful on a 4x4 that hits obstacles. It reduces sharp inputs to the steering wheel making it easier to hold onto.
  9. Bedda. These are the fusible links connected to the positive battery terminal. . Someone has replaced them and used crimp on terminals. Just look how crappy those connections will be. Check for 12v on the end of the Red wire and the White/Black stripe and the other one. If no power clean and re tighten those connections. Fixed, this should give you power to the two 10 amp fuses.
  10. There's more culture in a spoonful of yogurt than all of TVdom.
  11. Sorry I certainly do NOT use f/b. Some do but I don't. Get a picture hosting site account, (ANYONE BUT PHOTOBUCKET) there are free ones. Download you picture(s) there. When you want one, go there, copy the picture information, come here and past it into your post. So everyone can see it. Replace the fuses with 10 Amp. I'll have to wait for the pictures of the fusible links.....
  12. Cab/Chassis models (engine tag starts with an E) use an E 78 14 tire on a 5" wide rim or 5.5" aluminum mag. E78s are 7.65" wide and 26" tall. 195 /75R14 are 7.68" wide and 25.5" tall.... just over 2MPH at 50MPH 195/80R14 is 7.28" and 25.65" tall............... same 205/75R14 are 8" wide and 25.3" tall.......... almost 2.5 MPH fast at 50MPH
  13. Wish I hadn't. When I entered high school in the mid '60s there was a 20 something around town with a '55 409 that was a legendary street racer. The car was absolutely insane and every Monday at school there would be rumors of races he won out on the 4th concession road out of town that past Fri and Sat nights. The car was black like the one in American Graffiti and well known on sight. He would drive around town and if you caught his eye, pointed your finger at the car and made a circular motion he would oblige with a chirp of the tires. I saw him once just before graduating, working as a gaffer on our high school stage lighting climbing ropes and swinging around. He wore leather pants like Jim Morrison and was cool as shit. So when I saw that 409 I googled Ken Zayette and found his obit. I guess he worked at the nickle mine in Sudbury for 40 years and retired in 2010 and passed in 2014 at 69 making him about 5 years older than me. I guess you never really die for as long as you are remembered.
  14. Pump brakes to release any stored vacuum. Press down on the brake and hold. Start engine. What you should experience is the pedal will drop about an inch as manifold vacuum rises. This is normal operation. There is a one way valve in line. The intake side should allow you to suck air through it. The booster side should not. The booster is sealed and with the one way valve should be capable of storing vacuum when the engine is shut off. Vacuum hoses should be split or crack free and securely clamped to the intake and one way valve. Engine stutter or stall at idle when brakes applied would indicate the diaphragm or a seal is bad inside.
  15. Disconnecting the hose(s) will de-activate the EGR valve. You can plug the hose barb on the carburetor but not really a concern as this is not connected to intake vacuum and is not a vacuum leak. You can also remove the belt on the air pump. The air enters the head near the thermostat and is piped internally to the exhaust ports to combine with and provide oxygen to ignite hot unburned hydrocarbons in the exhaust. If you remove pollution devices save them, just in case. Take the valve cover off and see what casting you have. Probably this H72. I can't find a specific 'California emissions head'. I think they were all the same and only the emissions controls changed added.
  16. datzenmike

    Which head

    The L20B and the Z20 had the same crankshaft and basically the same block, bore and stroke. From crank center line to deck is 227.45mm so the L20B rod, 145.9mm and piston pin height 38.1mm plus half the stroke 43mm add to 227mm. For the Z20 the pin height was reduced and the rod length increased. 152.5mm + 31.75mm + 43mm = 227.25mm. A Z20 engine with an L20B open chamber head becomes a long rod L20B and has a 10.18 compression
  17. For pictures get a free account at any picture hosting sit, other than Photobucket. I use imgur but there are lots to choose from. What you do is download a picture there and save it. When you want to use it, you copy the picture information there and bring it here and paste into your post. This is very abbreviated but you can experiment to get it exact.
  18. Use a piece of wire to go from the master to near the slave where the flex line will meet it. Or string or tape measure. Be generous.Get a length of pre-made brake line with the correct threads that is the same length or next size longer. I'm almost positive that a Datsun brake line will work on a master / slave fitting. Take the slave with you and make sure it screws in. You can make rounded bends by forming around a tapered baseball bat. The round plastic reservoirs should all interchange. What I do is stand them up in hot water to warm and soften them, quickly dry and clamp them on. Have a care, no water must be allowed into the braking system hydraulics. Just to confirm.... this is a pilot bushing that fits into the end of the crankshaft... It's very soft and easily damaged, so place a block of wood over it when you hammer it in.
  19. datzenmike

    Which head

    The Z20 and the late L20B are within a hair of being the same blocks and they use exactly the same U60 crankshaft. The Z20S was used in the '80-'81 A10. It had the N8500 6" or 152.5mm LONG rods. The Z20E was used in the '80-'81 S110 200sx also with the N8500 LONG rods If your Z20 has a head casting #W04 on it then it's from an '84-'86.5 720 Mileage option truck and has the N8500 LONG rods. Did I mention that all Z20 engines use the LONG rods? The Z series heads are worthless unless you have the W04 casting which has a smaller combustion chamber. Someone with an A10 or S110 who want's a 9 to 1 compression might want it. They were designed for high efficiency with low pollution at low RPMs and not for performance nor does it lend itself to being improved much.. Why would you re-invent the wheel when you have the better forged rods you want? 12100-N8500 at the dealer $100 each, if they still have some. Cheaper to buy up Z20s and pull them out.
  20. 14 appears to bolt into the intake. Not likely a temperature sender for the dash gauge.
  21. The '79 through '81 zx will bolt in, the '82-'83 have a horizontal bolt pattern and will not. Vacuum boosters rarely go bad. Make sure the hoses are snug and leak proof. The one-way valve can be sucked on to determine direction. If you can such air through it that is the intake side. You should not be able to suck air through the booster side of the valve. It's normal to hear a slight hiss sound when pumping the brake. To test operation of the vacuum booster, step on the pedal several times to remove any residual pressure. Step on the brake pedal and hold. Start the engine. Here's what you should see. The pedal will drop towards the floor about an inch as intake vacuum rises on the running engine. It's working normally. The slave flex line is 260mm long. That's 10 1/4" in American measurement. Too long (within reason) os OK. I've used brake flex lines before. The manual flywheel bolt part number (all I have) is 12315-H6200 same on all A14 / A15 and the A12 only used in the 210.The automatic ones are a different length. You have a pilot bushing for the end of the crank? Have to have one to support the input shaft of the transmission. You've removed the automatic flexplate spacer on the end of the crankshaft???
  22. Check the last two fuses on the far right of the fuse box. They are both 10 amp. They should read battery power on both sides. If not, find the 3 fusible links attached to the positive battery cable. They are about 4" long with plastic connectors on the ends so they can be removed and replaced. There is a Green and a Red together and a single Green by itself. The single Green by itself it the one you want to check. It may be burned and crispy, or it may look OK but test it for +12v.
  23. We all had return lines on our 720s. It was for extremely hot weather that causes vapor lock. After shut off, the under hood temperatures get so high the gas boils in the line and/or the carburetor. The return line allows cooler fuel to circulate past the carburetor. It also keeps the tank cleaner as slowly all the gas in the take is circulated through the in line filter.
  24. You can't lower indefinitely. On a stock strut, even a zx, you can get so low you have bottomed out the insert. Once it's bottomed out the tire becomes your suspension.
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