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About jovial_cynic

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 08/10/1978

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Tumwater, Washington
  • Cars
    SR20DET 510
  • Interests
    welding, computers, building stuff.
  • Occupation
    Allstate Field Sales Leader

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  1. jovial_cynic

    What did you do to your dime today?

    Got the exhaust mostly buttoned up. i still have an exhaust leak somewhere, as I have rich exhaust fumes pouring into the cabin when I'm pushing the engine hard. It's coming up through the transmission tunnel... which needs to also be sealed up. But at least with it open, I can tell that there's an exhaust leak. Next up is trying to decide if I want to get the auxiliary idle valve installed, or if I want to just deal with feathering the idle until it warms up each time.
  2. jovial_cynic

    What did you do to your dime today?

    I began the process of re-routing some of my exhaust. It hangs pretty low as it has to jump over the janky transmission crossmember I made a while back. So... I'll probably have to fabricate something for that as well...
  3. jovial_cynic

    What did you do to your dime today?

    I settled in on an LDPerformance boost controller for my turbo. $160 for a fully controllable boost solenoid, with built-in pressure sensor, and ability to modulate the boost on the fly w/ gear or tach signal, or run a set-and-forget boost setting, AND be able to toggle between the two options? Yeah. It's everything I would have designed myself if I felt like taking the time to program it all.
  4. jovial_cynic

    Does anybody have good pics of front sway bar on 510?

    Looks like I may have figured it out! I got it the sway bar installed. Pics to come soon.
  5. I'm about to install the futofab front-sump sway bar on my 510. Because I'll have to re-modify my crossmember to make it fit, I'd like to see how it's supposed to sit in there so I can get a better of sense of where to cut/weld. I checked the futofab site and saw the pictures on there, but I'd like a few more visuals if possible. Thanks in advance!
  6. jovial_cynic

    What did you do to your dime today?

    Ok. Brakes sorted. A combination of "needs to be bled a bit more" and "not enough slack in the MC rod/pedal" creates a very strange driving experience. I finally got around to converting my HKS clone blowoff valve from vent-to-atmo to recirculate, so no more stumbling and idling out when I stop after hard boost. What a HUGE difference that makes. Also, I previously had my electric radiator fan come on at a particular temperature, but when I swapped radiators, I had to give up the thermo-switch that triggered the fan relay. So... I drove around wondering why my engine temp wouldn't go down. I may have to get something figured out there.
  7. jovial_cynic

    280zx struts

    Nope. No booster. I'm not sure there's room with the top mount turbo SR, though... Any other solutions?
  8. jovial_cynic

    280zx struts

    Aaarg. My brakes are still giving me issues, doing one of two things: 1. "Doesn't stop very quickly, but nice hard pedal feel. Just not gripping well." 2. "Pedal seems very stiff, and the brakes aren't releasing all the way!"
  9. jovial_cynic

    What did you do to your dime today?

    I cleared out room in the garage and squeezed the 510 in there. Very tight fit. But, I got quite a bit of work done. I pulled the exhaust manifold and set it on a bench belt sander (50 grit) for about 20 minutes and got it smoothed out. It took forever to get it all back together (I did have to unbolt the driver-side mount and lift the engine several inches), but I got it done and put back together. Now, the only exhaust leaks are down under the car, post turbo... In other news, I have a new issue w/ the brakes. I went 4-wheel disc, and now the brakes seem to operate in two modes: 1. "Doesn't stop very quickly, but nice hard pedal feel. Just not gripping well." 2. Pedal seems very stiff, and the brakes aren't releasing all the way! So... that's annoying. But at least today was an incredibly beautiful day to work on the car!
  10. jovial_cynic

    What did you do to your dime today?

    I've been ignoring an exhaust leak at the manifold on my SR20DET. The manifold isn't flat, so the center presses against the head, but the left and right sides are bowed out just enough to leave a gap on one side or the other. No good. But I've been busy, so I've just dealt with it. Anyhow, I tried to yank the turbo assembly out today, but MAN, it's a tight fit in the engine bay. I don't even remember how I got it out last time. I think I might have lifted the engine out a bit to access it... but that means disconnecting the radiator, disconnecting the transmission (possibly), etc., etc. And at the old house, doing this wasn't that big of a deal, because I had a shop. At the new house, there's no shop. And there's barely a garage... which is currently full of stuff that doesn't fit in the house. So... the 510 is outside on gravel, under a pop-up tent and rain cover. Getting under the car isn't a pleasant experience right now. Anyhow, whine whine, wah-wah-wah, I'll get over it and get it done. I have a Datsun 510 that I love working on, so there's no sense in complaining too much. :D
  11. jovial_cynic

    What did you do to your dime today?

    Pictures from the post above. It's not pretty yet. Most of what I've always done is just proof-of-concept, and then I end up sticking with it. The 4 lower gauges are all from the R33 skyline. For some dumb reason, I thought it would be a good idea to try to use it for my SR20DET install. The oil and fuel work just fine, but the SR temp sensor isn't compatible w/ the R33 gauge... so I have a temp sensor from an RB25 in my engine now. AF sensor is there on top. The dash is going to be built up to have the above instrument cluster tilted slightly towards the driver. I'm not sure what I'll install in the old instrument location or in the glove box location. Maybe a glove box? If so, I'll have to move my instrument cluster a little to the left. So... the only reason I wanted the R33 gauge cluster is because it had a built-in boost gauge that reads up to 7psi. I just needed the RB25 boost/map sensor. But it turned out that the boost gauge on the cluster I bought was BROKEN. So that sucked. Not to be undone, I had a 5v gauge sitting around, and a generic/GM 2-bar map sensor was cheap and easy enough to obtain. The GM Map sensor reads as follows. This is perfect. I did some image editing and made a background for the 5v sensor that correlates w/ the PSI and inHg. And voila. Boost/MAP gauge. I just need to build up a housing for the gauge so it fits w/ the rest of the random theme of my car.
  12. jovial_cynic

    What did you do to your dime today?

    Took it out for a spin for the first time in about a year. I decided to take a break from my massively complex telemetry system and just put it back together. However, I needed some gauges, so stripped the R33 gauge cluster I had been using, bondo'd up a new instrument cluster to put the tach, water temp, oil pressure, fuel level together, as well as leaving a spot for the AF gauge. On the trip out, I discovered that the cotter-pin holding the brake pedal up had come loose... and right as I was turning into Home Depot to grab some stuff for the house, the pin fell out and I lost my brakes. Fortunately, I was already in a parking lot and could down-shift myself to a stop. That was scary. Turns out Home Depot carries cotter pins.
  13. jovial_cynic

    Arduino + Raspberry Pi = 510 Telemetry System

    I gave that some thought. However, I've got another 20 wires that I have to solder onto the board for the JST clips, and I'm going to put those under the board. That way, I'm keeping my circuitry design and my sensor wires separate from each other.
  14. Between upgrading all of my brakes (discs all around), fabbed up new intercooler plumbing, and finally dumping the R33 skyline gauge cluster, I decided that the next major project to tackle would be the big electronic project: the Arduino/Raspberry Pi telemetry and custom gauge cluster system. It doesn't sound like much, since I haven't seen many overly complex Arduino or rPi builds, but this has been a pretty significant undertaking. The basic premise of this project is this: Use the Arduino to pull data from no less than 16 sources. On a standard Arduino UNO, this is not possible; there are only 6 analog inputs. However, using the magic of multiplexing, there's a way to quickly poll multiple sources over a single analog input; with two 8-channel multiplexers, we get that 16, plus the remaining 4 on the board itself. Once the data is pulled (either direct 0-5v values or values drawn from a voltage divider circuit), it is neatly organized into a (name:value) pair, and sent as plain-text serial data via USB into the Raspberry Pi. On the rPI, I'm using Perl/Tk to pull in that serial data and display it graphically on a custom instrument cluster as well as saving the data for future analysis. And then all of that is displayed on a 9x5" LCD screen. Easy, right? Well, then there's the whole project of packaging it all up. So, that's where the 3d printer comes in. I assembled an ANET-A8 3d printer, learned how to use Blender, and printed out some bits to bring it all together. The first thing I needed to print was an enclosure for the LCD driver. It came as a PCB board attached to the LCD screen with a power supply line and a ribbon cable; boxing it up meant printing a custom enclosure that I found and modified on thingiverse.com. The model online didn't include a lid, so I used Blender + my 3d printer to build one. Fits like a glove. Perfect! The next thing I needed to do was to figure out a way to mount the LCD. It's going to sit in the Datsun 510, so I can't just have it sitting on the dash. I printed these corner brackets, and they seem to work just fine. It's not beautiful, but it is very functional. Again, using blender to design it. I've used the bracket in several of my 3d prints, as it's perfect for small screws. Fits the LCD screen. It's a little loose, but maybe I'm compensating for heat distortion? Test fit. And screwed down to a piece of plywood. The next project was to build a custom Arduino. Because I have a need to take things apart and put them back together, I wanted to do one of those custom "minimalist Arduino" projects where I just use the atmega chip, a few resistors, a crystal, and some capacitors, and voila - homemade Arduino. Here's a standard arduino UNO. It's the one I used to test all of my code. And here's the Arduino connected to the two 5041 multiplexers. Perf board with the chip plugs. Always use these things; soldering down (and then trying to remove) a chip sucks if you have to re-orient later. Here is my minimalist Arduino board, together with the two multiplexers and a USB interface board. In case you're nerdy, here's the multiplexer pintout. And here's the Arduino atmega chip pinout. With 16 inputs, I didn't want a bunch of loose wires everywhere, so I decided to use some JST clips to organize my wiring. I couldn't find any 16-terminal JST plugs, so figured having 4 sets of 4 would work just fine. This is a 4-wire JST clip set. Not satisfied with having the clips dangling about, I did some test printing and built a holster for the clips. Perfect fit! However, this holster was just a proof-of-concept. I wanted to make sure they would fit properly so I can build an Arduino housing model that would incorporate the design. And here's a shot of the prototype of the Arduino housing. You can see the brackets that I've reused from the LCD clips, as well as the JST holster. And the arduino+multiplexer perf board fits perfectly. And here's a tall lid for the enclosure. At the time of this writing, I'm still trying to figure out how to pull it all together neatly. Right now, I've just thrown it all onto a piece of plywood. It works, but this is not likely the final product. On the left is the Raspberry Pi, connected by HDMI to the LCD driver housing in the center. On the right is another project - it's going to be the power supply for the whole thing. The LCD screen requires a 12v power supply - no problem. The Datsun 510, like most cars, has a 12v battery. I'll need to include a voltage regulator circuit to address voltage spikes and reversals, since that'll destroy my electronics. The Arduino and the rPi, on the other hand, only need 5 volts, so I have a switching converter to create a 5v power supply. This is particularly useful because several of my sensors need a 5v source as well: the MAP sensor (boost sensor), for example. The Arduino also accepts 0 to 5 volt inputs, so building voltage divider circuits from here is also important. Here, I have the Arduino hooked up and ready to go. The Raspberry Pi is loading... And we're in X-Windows on the Raspberry Pi. And here's the Arduino IDE serial monitor, and it's correctly reading the values from the rPi and multiplexers. There's no sensor data at the moment, so all the inputs read high. They would read low if they were grounded, and they would read correctly if they were connected to sensors properly. And lastly, here's the custom gauge cluster I coded. The tachometer is from an image of a Nissan Skyline tach; the Fuel Level, Oil Pressure, and Water Temp gauges were just cobbled together from some generic images online. I drew up the Boost gauge, and it may change to fit the scheme better. Once I have some data coming in from my accelerometer, I'll have the "g-force meter" working properly as well. This is all done within Perl/Tk. Stay tuned. More to come.
  15. jovial_cynic

    280zx struts

    I had a hunch that I should probably release a bunch of the pressure at the calipers, so I did that, re-bled the lines, and I think we're good to go. I'll drive it around and see if I notice any issues. Thx!

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