What did you do to your dime today?

[benzo]

On Friday the short body shocks arrived. Got them installed. Here are some pics and part #'s for any that want to know. I chose two to decide. The KG5519 is for a Ford Thunderbird and the KG4616 is for a Suzuki Samurai front. Since I am using the Technotoytuning leaf springs this did change the shock mounting location or moved it up compared to a stock leaf spring. I decided to go with the Suzuki shocks as based on my measurements this shock will give the car full stroke. The Thunderbird model would work too and may be more heavy duty in case you carry more stuff or want a stiffer suspension. I am using at the moment the 2" lowering blocks as well. The shocks fit with no modification and initial feeling is it smoothed out the ride. I can tell I was probably bottoming out the stock dimension Tokicos at times. Since I am using the 2" blocks that did move the axle closer to the differential/drive shaft tunnel so if the road is rough or big dips it does hit or bang hard. I may go back to the 1" blocks or try a 1.5" block to see how it is but so far the short body shocks are working. If you live in an area with smooth roads or not too bad you will notice the difference. I chose KYB as these were inexpensive to test ( about 30-40$ each) but if you want to go Koni or Bilstein or QA1 sure those will be great!

[benzo]

Wanted some floor mats. Don't have time to search wrecking yards. Was about to buy ones from BRE but found these at local O'Reilly's parts store for 37.00. They fit pretty good or will do the job.

[datsuntech]

1 hour ago, benzo said:

Wanted some floor mats. Don't have time to search wrecking yards. Was about to buy ones from BRE but found these at local O'Reilly's parts store for 37.00. They fit pretty good or will do the job.

I bought similar ones for my 510 years ago. I always thought they fit the car well.

[benzo]

@datsuntech Sweet! Satisfied with the purchase. Was hoping to be more Ratsun and score something for extra cheap or free but this isn't bad.

[edekalil]

On 3/3/2023 at 12:53 PM, benzo said:

Wanted some floor mats. Don't have time to search wrecking yards. Was about to buy ones from BRE but found these at local O'Reilly's parts store for 37.00. They fit pretty good or will do the job.

I'll have to keep that in mind cause I have three sets of carpet for the two doors but I don't think they have mats. Nice.

[Icehouse]

This guy moved under it's own power for the first time since I think 07 or 08.   Pretty wild. 

 

[edekalil]

20 hours ago, Icehouse said:

This guy moved under it's own power for the first time since I think 07 or 08.   Pretty wild. 

 

Congratulations enjoy the ride

[benzo]

Attended the local SFOBHotRods meet and trying out some of these Westlake RP18 tires on some SSR MK3's I recently picked up. 

[damon]

Got my new L-18 installed into my car! Should be ready to fire it up on 510 day tomorrow! 
 

L-18 bored 1mm over

280zx 86mm flat top pistons

219 SSS head with 280zx 44 and 35 mm valves, Kameari bronze valve guides. 
Damb cam from Kelvin Dietz

fully balanced 

cam spray bar

mikuni 40phh carbs completely rebuilt. 
Kameari oil pump

new Roadster clutch. 
mall new hardware 

[benzo]

@damon looks good! Hope it runs good.

[benzo]

Had an issue about a week ago but seems I got it corrected. I was low on gas and was waiting at a light to U turn to head to the gas station. The wagon started to stumble hard and I got out of line and pulled over and the wagon died out and wouldn't start. I was stupid for not keeping my gas can as I was only a 1/4 mile away so called roadside service ( Hagerty) and in a little over an hour they came and put 3 gallons in. Car started but ran like shit. I filled up more gas but was still running rough. Got it to mellow out in the lot and managed to get it home taking street routes. I had a vacuum leak in the past and was able to tighten the intake manifold nuts but think this time the leak was so bad it made it act the way it did. I am running a Rebello motor with Mikuni intake and Carbs It was just the front carb with the issue. I pulled it and noticed there was no gasket and they used RTV and the RTV for cylinder #2 worn away and also one missing bolt/stud on the head which would add to the cause of the leak.  During this time I also checked ignition,distributor shaft for play and spark plugs and fuel pressure and all those items checked out.  Lucky O'Reilly's auto parts had the FelPro gasket kit, High temp header coating paint and exhaust manifold stud kit. ( also can use a dorman part, or nissan if you can get it or even Honda exhaust manifold studs and nuts they all use 8mm x1.25 thread pitch ) Took this time mask off the engine bay and cleaned the header and painted it.  The paint seems to work good and looks a lot better. Cleaned off the intake and head surface with carb cleaner, put two of the studs on the head and cut the intake gasket to line up and installed. I used Honda exhaust manifold nuts as the ones in the dorman kit are 13mm but all my other nuts are 12mm so wanted to keep it consistent. Also used the Nissan thick flange washer to put equal pressure on the intake manifold and header. Got the car running but was still having a miss but no more vacuum leak. Consulted with Dave Rebello and he and I agreed the carbs need syncing and also clean the pilot jets as we came to the conclusion as the situation happend so sudden I may have sucked up some debris from the tank and it got past the filter and into the carb. He said do this and if it doesn't work call me and he can maybe look at the engine for me. 

 

Put new plugs and cleaned out the jets with carb cleaner and compressed air and started the engine and it was running really bad and high idle. Was getting worried but stayed calm and got my sync meter and screwdriver and started to sync the carbs. Was super stoked as I could totally hear and feel the differrence. The carbs prior were 5 kg/h for cylinder 1&2 carb and 9kg/h for cylinder 3&4 carb. I was able to get them all at 5 kg/h and idle at just around 1000 rpm. I left it alone as it was running pretty good and no more stumble/miss. Also noticed the exhaust note was smoother and not running as rich as I used to get black soot coming out the tail pipe. Went for a drive and it was super noticeable. Lots smoother and may have gained back or gained some hp and torque as getting on the on ramp I was able to pull hard and get up to 90mph fast! Brought the car back and tried to fine tune a bit more and idle and response is a bit better. Going to swap fuel filter to a new one and pump in some more 91 octane as I think the person who brought me gas gave me lower octane fuel.  Feeling stoked and that I was able to sort this out and get to know the engine better and the carbs/tuning process. Here are some pics for any of you to reference. Sorry couldn't load vids of the engine running.

-Fel Pro intake/exhaust manifold Gasket kit was MS22693-1  $14.49

-Dorman Stud kit #03412 $39.54. Can get individual ones for around 4-5 dollars each

-High temp header paint $14.99

Edited June 1, 2023 by benzo

[datzenmike]

I give the header spray 3-4 months.

[benzo]

@datzenmike That's what I am waiting to see. 

[edekalil]

Picked up this tool, figured it would come in handy. 

 

[benzo]

Bought these Watanabe wheels for cheap but the offset was a bit too positive and was close to hitting the coil over perch. Looking at the specs of my SSR wheel ( 14x6.5 +7 offset) and the Watanbe's at 14 x 6.5 +14.5mm offset I needed to use a spacer. Bought two sets of spacers ( 8mm and 5 mm) as they were cheap and trying the 5mm first as that will make the wheel a +9.5mm offset ( Watanabe does make this offset and believe this is the wheel to use on a 510 with stock fenders). Since I am using 280ZX hubs the stock studs were a bit too short so I either had to use longer studs or use extended shank lug nuts. I chose the lug nuts as I didn't want to pull the hubs and install studs but in order to use the extended shank nuts I needed to drill out the lug holes to fit them. I used a Uni Bit which was perfect to drill it for square fitment but it did create a step so used a bit for porting heads and that cleaned it up really well and the nuts fit in clean. Seems i have enough clearance for the coil over perches but if needed I can use the 8mm spacers which would make the wheel offset to +6.5mm which is close to my SSR wheels which I know clears. Right now the nuts do thread in a 1/2" which is supposedly enough for secure mounting. What I like about this method is the shank does make the wheel sit square or hub centric and also that it is an angled seat it is a nice square seat. Just have to do a slow test drive in the neighborhood and check for clearance but pretty confident it will work out.

[KELMO]

So, do you have Wat's all the way around now? Or did you move the rears to the front.

 

If all the way around, I think that calls for a side shot of the car. IMHO

[benzo]

@KELMO Not the best pic but here goes. I also did a YouTube Vid/IG Vid. Should be able to find it on YT under Benzosf or longrodlseries but pretty much details what my post was about.

Edited June 14, 2023 by benzo

[edekalil]

Ordered a set of these for when I lower the Goon.

 

 

[KELMO]

I see it says they are 2" wide, how tall are they? The description says shims, I would be looking for blocks.

[rosso]

Details getting ready for Powerland:

Front spoiler

 

 

rear "510" emblem

 

Hood adjusters:

 

Packing up tomorrow and leaving Friday morning. 🙂

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

On 6/8/2023 at 9:51 AM, benzo said:

stock studs were a bit too short so I either had to use longer studs or use extended shank lug nuts. I chose the lug nuts as I didn't want to pull the hubs and install studs but in order to use the extended shank nuts I needed to drill out the lug holes to fit them.

I just installedsome SSR Mesh on my 510 w 510 struts. the wheel hit the strut. I called Icehouse on here and he told me to order 510 rear (Doorman brand)studs ad put them in the fron hub. I had a extra set of hubs and had a machined billet 5/16 spacer and fits perfect with lots of threads.

 

I used a vise and a fat socket to push the studs out. installed new studs fine and fell the slines line up Wack with hammer to its set then I revered it using the Socket to push them back in.

 

Just me here I think I would have like to see more threads going thru that wheel NUT.

 

 

I think zcardepot has machined 1/4 spacers look under 280zx

https://zcardepot.com/collections/wheel-related/products/wheel-spacer-1-4-4-lug-pair-240z-260z-280z?variant=39935287754865

 

 

280zx like closer to 0 offset as the hubs are 3/4 closer in the fender

Edited July 6, 2023 by banzai510(hainz)

[shlammed]

On 12/27/2022 at 11:42 AM, mojojojo78 said:

I have been working on this for a few weeks just doing upgrades here and there. I had installed some relays for the headlights, ignition and radiator fans. These were just hanging on the firewall. So I bought a nice relay box with fuses and installed that near the headlights on the passenger side. It really cleans it up.

Before:

 

After:

I was also able to get my headlights wired up properly so that the high/low beams worked right. I don't know why, but they were triggering backwards. Now they are correct.

I moved the battery to the trunk.

 

I am using 1/0 gauge welding cable. I have it grounded under the back seat. I found a nice threaded hole. I think maybe for seat belts, but I have seat belts mounted in different threaded holes. So I am not sure what it was meant for.

I finally did the hood strut conversion. I tell you this is just nice. I really like these.

I don't have a picture, but I replaced the sealed beam with these guys:

https://www.amazon.com/Octane-Lighting-Headlight-Halogen-Headlamp/dp/B09ZJXDTWX/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2EW5HTBI8Q5GP&keywords=Octane+Lighting+5-3%2F4+OEM+Stock+Retro+Style+Glass+Metal+Headlight+Halogen+H4+Light+Bulb+Headlamp+Set&qid=1672159229&s=automotive&sprefix=octane+lighting+5-3%2F4+oem+stock+retro+style+glass+metal+headlight+halogen+h4+light+bulb+headlamp+set%2Cautomotive%2C111&sr=1-1&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.18ed3cb5-28d5-4975-8bc7-93deae8f9840

Although the set I got was all clear. No amber lights. I used a different set of LED bulbs. I like it much better than the sealed beam. Even with the relays, they just never seemed that bright. These ones are much brighter, and the beam pattern is very close to the stock sealed beam. Its not shining all over the place.

 

 

 

What fuse/relay box is this?

[mojojojo78]

5 hours ago, shlammed said:

 

 

What fuse/relay box is this?

I got it on Amazon. I have used these before and they just make things nicer.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GT3VKB8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[edekalil]

Got the pistons installed in the L20B. 

 

 

[edekalil]

Found some goods for the L20b.

Edited July 10, 2023 by edekalil