What did you do to your dime today?

[datzenmike]

 

Use the threaded hole in the center with something like a slide hammer.

[edekalil]

6 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

Use the threaded hole in the center with something like a slide hammer.

Thank you Mike, I kinda figured that out for the rear and center main caps. After looking around on line. I believe this Fel Pro rear main cap seal kit will work. It looks to be correct and can be hear sooner and a bit cheaper than the local parts places around here. There are other sets that go through later year l20b. Well I picked up one of theses kits witch I believe fits any L series engine. 

 

Edited November 30, 2022 by edekalil

[edekalil]

Just left my friends welding shop, he’s going to make an adaptor out of some square tube to use to pull the rear and center cap with my old Blackhawk body puller I got way back. 

Edited November 30, 2022 by edekalil

[edekalil]

Got the adapter and pulled the caps, now to start over when new parts come in.

 

here’s a pic of the seal nail I screwed up 

 

Edited December 3, 2022 by edekalil

[edekalil]

Found an old school set of camber plates to use on the Goon when I lower it.

 

 

Edited December 3, 2022 by edekalil

[datzenmike]

 

The 710 had off set top hats to help with the camber issues in that car. My wagon came with Moog camber plates on it. Fully maxed out just barely fixes it when I lowered.

 

510 guys would strip them from 710s.

[edekalil]

55 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

 

The 710 had off set top hats to help with the camber issues in that car. My wagon came with Moog camber plates on it. Fully maxed out just barely fixes it when I lowered.

 

510 guys would strip them from 710s.

I have another set that is different I have found and hid a couple of times now looking for them. I had a set of old springs so I figured I would use them rather than spend money and have stuff hanging around sitting. I still have a couple things to take care of before I lower the Goon but hopefully when it gets warm I hope to have it lowered by April next year. 

[edekalil]

Got the new cap bolts and rear cap seal kit. I’ll give it another go next Sunday.

[edekalil]

Cleaned up around the 2 door on the rotisserie to be able to get back on her.

[edekalil]

Crank is in correctly now and changed the amber lights on the 72 back to stock

[mrbigtanker]

Don't get cranky with me buddy boy. hahahahahahahaha

[edekalil]

Found this radio that was in my 72 Sedan when I got her in 79, it was in the box of the one I put in her back then. I figure I’ll put it in the 70 Sedan if I can’t get hers working.

 

Edited December 25, 2022 by edekalil

[mojojojo78]

I have been working on this for a few weeks just doing upgrades here and there. I had installed some relays for the headlights, ignition and radiator fans. These were just hanging on the firewall. So I bought a nice relay box with fuses and installed that near the headlights on the passenger side. It really cleans it up.

Before:

After:

I was also able to get my headlights wired up properly so that the high/low beams worked right. I don't know why, but they were triggering backwards. Now they are correct.

I moved the battery to the trunk.

I am using 1/0 gauge welding cable. I have it grounded under the back seat. I found a nice threaded hole. I think maybe for seat belts, but I have seat belts mounted in different threaded holes. So I am not sure what it was meant for.

I finally did the hood strut conversion. I tell you this is just nice. I really like these.

I don't have a picture, but I replaced the sealed beam with these guys:

https://www.amazon.com/Octane-Lighting-Headlight-Halogen-Headlamp/dp/B09ZJXDTWX/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2EW5HTBI8Q5GP&keywords=Octane+Lighting+5-3%2F4+OEM+Stock+Retro+Style+Glass+Metal+Headlight+Halogen+H4+Light+Bulb+Headlamp+Set&qid=1672159229&s=automotive&sprefix=octane+lighting+5-3%2F4+oem+stock+retro+style+glass+metal+headlight+halogen+h4+light+bulb+headlamp+set%2Cautomotive%2C111&sr=1-1&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.18ed3cb5-28d5-4975-8bc7-93deae8f9840

Although the set I got was all clear. No amber lights. I used a different set of LED bulbs. I like it much better than the sealed beam. Even with the relays, they just never seemed that bright. These ones are much brighter, and the beam pattern is very close to the stock sealed beam. Its not shining all over the place.

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Looks a lot better with the relays moved.

[r0p0doe]

Put my dash back in, not much in but I made some kind of progress😅

[benzo]

I had been having lock issues on the drivers side and finally bought a new lock set from Datsun Garage but after looking at my door lock cylinder and comparing the Datsun Garage kit I noticed a few issues. The OEM lock/One on the car had a lot of free play and also missing plastic holder for the rod connecting to it to control the locking mechanism. Also noticed the New lock kit has 4 tabs on it where the OEM one and the door has 3 tabs/notches so I would either have to modify the new lock to work or cut the door which I don't feel like doing. Also the new lock is not the type that can be rekeyed so I would have an extra key on my ring or would have to look at trying to rekey the trunk/hatch.( Not a major issue but more of preference). I ended up repairing my OEM lock cylinder by first going to the parts store and buying a Dorman Assorted rod kit and initially it helped with some free play but still wasn't better or perfect so next I got a horseshoe clip and put it between the lock cylinder and used the cotter pin to hold in place and it worked! Been testing it and so far the lock has been working and feels a lot better. Crisp locking.  Now for the Datsun Garage kit I am going to return it as I just don't feel comfortable of having to modify it or the door but if you are ok then the lock kit should work. Sorry not able to load vids but here are some pics. I assume others have had this issue so if anyone has another repair option would love to hear about it. For now I am looking for another oem lock as backup or a cylinder that can be rekeyed. 

[iceman510]

Good to know those Dorman rod bushings fit our cars.  I may need to get one of those kits.

 

[benzo]

@iceman510 Yeah it was about 6 dollars for the pack and glad it worked out. I did see online there is a larger kit that has more and various sizes. 

[edekalil]

Been fooling with the L20B pistons, like the whole motor they where sent to a motor shop way back. It’s all still good but two of the piston wrist pins were a bit tight so been squirting some Marvel Mystery Oil on them for a few week ends and they started to loosen up. The old Marvel Mystery Oil I had sprayed a ways back here and there must have got thicker from sitting for some time making two a bit harder to move today I sprayed them again as well as the ends of the wrist pins and they are way better now. They will be able to go in the motor now. 

[datzenmike]

They are extremely close tolerance and get very hot, a recipe for lubricant to coke and resist movement. I've had pistons that you couldn't move by hand from a running engine. Imagine how much power was wasted forcing them to rotate back and forth. Best thing is regular oil changes. S13/14 rod ends are bushed so the pin 'floats' on the rod as well. Clips are fitted in the pistons so the pin can't work itself sideways into the cylinder wall. The tops of the rods are drilled for oil

 

 

 

[edekalil]

Here is a shot of the pistons I don’t think they have clips on the ends of the wrist pins but they should be good to go now that they are not tight, they loosened up once I got the lube in the right areas. They’re smooth as silk.

Edited January 18, 2023 by edekalil

[datzenmike]

The rods are heated and the cold pin pressed in. I've pressed them out without heating and it took 1,200 - 1,500 pounds.

 

Only the S13/14 had this, the truck KAs didn't. It's a small thing that added to lots of other small things adds up.

[damon]

Finishing up restoring the entire front, stripped, repainted, reassembled with all new OEM fasteners. 

Edited January 20, 2023 by damon

[benzo]

Since I had swapped out the back leaf springs on the wagon with the Technotoytuning kit a few months ago the back seemed a bit lower so lowered the front Ground Control coil overs an inch to match up or make the fender gap measurements the same.  Glad years ago when I set up the car that I have enough travel in the front shocks. After a test drive felt the same and can go over speed bumps and up my driveway the same as before. Don't feel my camber and toe will be thrown off much but will see. Waiting on 2" blocks/ubolts from T3 and shocks and will play with the shackles as those have adjustments too. Going to try the shackles first and then go from there. So far so good. Here are some before and after pics. Like the way it looks and not too low or unbearable ride quality.

[KELMO]

^^^So the rear end ride height is just from the T3 spring kit? It looks very similar to what mine does as far as where it sits.

Are you running 14" or 15" wheels?