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Stoffregen Motorsports

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Stoffregen Motorsports last won the day on September 5 2019

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    Cool, CA
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    https://www.fourwheeler.com/features/0611-4wd-1957-range-rover/

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  1. I'm glad you left the gutters. Trucks look goofy without them, unless you're doing flush glass.
  2. If your F250 is full time four wheel drive, then that probably has more to do with it than anything else. One other thing, wheelbase. Vehicles offered with different wheelbase lengths don't have specific steering arms between them. If you buy a long bed, extra cab truck, is has the same steering arms as a short cab, short bed truck. Since wheelbase also plays a part in ackerman, it's such an inconsequential detail that even the engineers don't make adjustments. For ackerman to be noticeably bad, something has to be very wrong.
  3. Sure it does, but you can't have it all. The only way to fix that would be to heat and bend the steering arms. COnsider this, the 320/521/620 suspension and steering are horrible. The 720 has improved geometry to begin with, so it's a massive improvement. Besides, have you ever actually noticed bad ackerman? The only vehicle I have ever built that had ackerman so bad that it was noticeable was a custom suspension, custom axle BJ74 Land Cruiser. The issue was that the tie rod wouldn't clear the diff on full steering lock, so we had to run the tie rod on the front hole of the steering arms, and even then, the ackerman was only noticeable when doing a tight u-turn. So yeah, theory is one thing. Reality is different.
  4. Here's a link to the 320 balljoint conversion thread -
  5. The strap is a good idea. It's nice when it finally clunks into the clutch and onto the back of the block. That's when you know it's home.
  6. See my 320 balljoing conversion thread. I clipped the frame just behind the motor mounts and used the original torsion bar mounts. I did this on a 320, which is narrower than the 620, but all other parts for the job should be the same. I chose that cut location because I wanted to keep the original frame numbers, which are on the passenger side, just behind the motor mount. The problem with just removing the individual suspension mounting points and replacing them with the later parts is that you need to be 100% perfect in your measurements and absolutely 100% accurate on your fitting ans welding on the new parts. Doing a whole clip is simple by comparison. The most important part of doing a clip swap is setting the truck up on jackstands that won't move, then make the truck perfectly level (use shims on top of the jack stands to level it out). Use a plumb bob to measure and mark your wheel centerline on the fender and if possible, use the plumb bob to mark all important locations on the concrete floor. DO NOT MOVE THE TRUCK at all until the job is done. You should even avoid leaning on it or getting into the cab during the job. Unless you have it rock solid on the jack stands. Here's a pic of the custom stands I made for doing these types of fabrication. They are adjustable with 1" acme threaded rods and I can level out a chassis with the turn of a nut.
  7. I did a clutch on my 510 race car in 20 minutes once. I was on pre-grid for a race and noticed that the clutch was shot. Pulled into the shop, dropped the trans with one hand holding it (510 4 speeds are very light), replaced the disc and re-installed the trans, and made it back to pre-grid before the race. You should be able to install the driveshaft in a day. The nice thing about transmissions is that there's no break-in. If it works on the first drive, you're done. Unless something catastrophic happens...
  8. The real work is done by the tapered cone on the inside of the synchro. Those teeth help just a tiny bit.
  9. Core shift happens and I've seen stock, uncut heads with casting numbers cut off at the bottom, so relying on that is not an accurate measure of CR. As we've discussed before, the cam has a lot to do with how much timing and what type of fuel you need to use. I had a 2200 in my first 510 which had 11:1 and ran on pump gas with 28 degrees of timing. Eventually we installed cut down KA24DE pistons to lower the CR to just over 10:1, and installed a smaller cam. After those mods, it dyno'd at 210hp.
  10. Great article. I do like that they focused on your efforts to get parts made. The whole reason I sold my 320 was because I couldn't find window rubbers and didn't want the winter rains to ruin my interior. No problem finding those parts now, thanks to you guys.
  11. Not to sound patronizing or anything, but I wish for a time when problems were that simple. I moved to the country to have the simple life, but the way my business has gone, the problems are anything but. Do a bench test to shift the gears before it goes in, and hell, if you have the rear slip yoke available to plug the tailshaft, you could even fill it with fluid before install. Aside from those issues, what else is there? You got this.
  12. I was thinking a possible fusible link, in anticipation of a charging system that isn't functioning. Duh, I forgot the electronic ignition... Thanks for clarifying.
  13. Did you leave the key on too? This can overheat the coil and/or the ballast resistor. A bad ballast resistor can cause hard starting as the ignition is not getting full voltage during cranking. Another thing to check for is burned out fusible links.
  14. Those hardware store grommets don't always look right, nor are they good at keeping water and smells out of the cab. Z car depot has a bunch of the original types, but I notice some of what they sell is aftermarket - https://zcardepot.com/collections/rubber-grommets#
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