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Stoffregen Motorsports

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Stoffregen Motorsports last won the day on July 12

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About Stoffregen Motorsports

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    Datsun Mechanic

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    Cool, CA
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    http://www.4wdandsportutility.com/features/rover/0611_4wd_1957_range_rover/viewall.html

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  1. It looks like his pump is mounted under the tank. At least that's what I saw in the pic.
  2. So you don't care if there's a delay between the reading and the actual vacuum? You just need a steady reading? for your software to do its job? That makes sense. BTW - I may be sending you another Lucas distributor. My hotrod Sprite that I just reacquired after nearly 20 years is in need of some work. Once I pull the motor, I'll send it your way.
  3. I have spent time in GA. My family had a place on the coast, and I do remember the lack of good shops. But in Atlanta? You can't find anyone there? That's surprising. I know of a couple good shops in SC. Hawks is one of them, They're in Easley. They do phenomenal work. Yes, mud bees. Same thing. The stuff they cram into small places is near impossible to get out sometimes.
  4. Not likely the cap had anything to do with it. I think Mike is right about the prime. Maybe it drains back overnight and has to prime again. Some fuel pumps have a check valve in them just for this reason.
  5. A pressure snubber can be used to smooth out the reading, but there may be a delay, and tuning around that delay would be futile.
  6. Do you have mud bees down in GA? If they get in and build their mud nest...game over. Good luck getting that out.
  7. I don't give a shit anymore. As long as I'm not out in the sun, I don't let the heat bother me anymore. Last year, I was interested in getting one of those big ass fans for the shop, so I called big ass to get a price. After about 10 emails back and forth I finally got them to tell me a number...and that number was pretty freakin high. No big ass fan for me!
  8. Two reasons I like to have a shop do my fuel tanks. - Time - the shop charges $60 to clean a tank. Another $60 to coat it. Money well spent. - Chemical waste - all that chemical cleaner (evapo-rust, etc) has to go somewhere. I know they say it's environmentally safe, but what? Pour it down the drain? I live in the country and I drink my own water, so maybe I'm a bit more picky about what goes into my dirt.
  9. I see now all the duplicate posts on the engine. Pick one!
  10. Yeah, I didn't even realize he had another post going on this topic.
  11. It's likely the distributor stand and plate don't match and they cut the slot to get the phasing back to stock. Someone other than the engine builder probably did this. Your game plan is good. Take the head off and have a look. At the very least, have a valve job done, replace the stem seals and maybe the springs (or have them checked). You can tell a lot about the bottom end by inspecting the bores. If you see any sign of scratching in the bores, the rings are likely trashed or broken. If the scratches are deep enough, boring the block to the next piston size may be the only way to get the scratches out...but we're getting ahead of ourselves here.
  12. This subject has been shrouded in mystery for decades. Casting shift over years of production can cause the casting number location to move slightly. Some factory stock heads have a third of the digits cut off. You should always measure a head (if you are looking to buy) because of this. Just because the numbers look cut, doesn't mean the head has been.
  13. It looks pretty old, like maybe from the 90's. Those aluminum spring retainers were very common back then.
  14. It sounds like rebuilding the engine is not something he's interested in.
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