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Stoffregen Motorsports

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Stoffregen Motorsports last won the day on December 29 2018

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About Stoffregen Motorsports

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    Datsun Mechanic

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    Cool, CA
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  1. https://www.trick-tools.com/ https://lowbucktools.com/ https://www.grizzly.com/sheet-metal-machines https://www.baileigh.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8OOlhuWY4QIVQhx9Ch1IsgEoEAAYASAAEgI46_D_BwE These are some good suppliers. Most "cheap" equipment on the market these days is simply rebranded and painted to the sellers specs, so if you find something you like in a name brand tool, you can likely get it for less by looking for an off brand seller. That goes for inexpensive tools. Once you get into more expensive tools, each brand is different.
  2. Yep, a bead roller with different size and shape dies will be able to recreate just about any original contours in the sheetmetal. You can get a manual roller for little money, but one with an electric motor makes the job so much easier. Sometimes it's a two person job, depending on the size of the sheet. Also, the early sheetmetal is a lot thicker than late model cars/trucks. Probably close to 16ga. A bead roller that can shape 16ga steel is going to be more expensive. I can do 16ga on my Mittler Brothers roller, but it really stresses the machine. I'm sure you could find a fab shop in your area to make a patch panel for you. Then you wouldn't have to spend $1500 on a bead roller.
  3. My six year old son likes the sheep on your intercooler.
  4. I don't think this guy is planning a daily driver build. If done right, a SBC in a Datsun mini truck could be really cool. The SBC wouldn't be my first engine choice though. Any of you who know me know that I am all about LS motors. They are sooooo much better than the SBC in just about every way. Get yourself an aluminum block 5.3 out of an Escalade and save some serious weight. Yes, SBCs are becoming sort of retro-cool, and I get that. Something about the look of that engine can raise the hair on the back of your neck. But the compromises...? In a Datsun mini, there are a lot of compromises.
  5. Yes, I to have seen the caps cut out of the girdle, but I have not done this myself. The KA's had skinny bearings (like in Mike's pic above) which obviously take more abuse than any L4, because of their added 50hp. Using good bearings is always important. Try not to use aluminum bearings as they can actually chip off with hard use. A good tri-metal bearing (like the factory used) is preferred.
  6. My '63 320NL had a body colored dash, but my '65 320L had a black crinkle coated dash. I like them both.
  7. Yes, distributorguy. Yes, it it RPM dependent, but that doesn't mean that higher RPMs give you more advance. By adjusting the spring tension on the weights, you can get all the timing in at whatever RPM you want. There is a big difference between street and race, but as we start adding things like bigger cams, higher compression, dual carbs, we edge closer and closer to race, thus, the timing needs are going to be different.
  8. I think Jeff can answer that question better than I can. My fingers do work that sometimes my brain has a hard time translating into words.
  9. We've gone over this many times before. A properly curved distributor will have better tip-in throttle response than any vacuum advance can deliver. Plus, the known and limited amount of advance set at predetermined speeds is the best way to keep your performance engine safe from breaking rings. I think once you've installed dual side drafts, the vacuum advance option is out the window.
  10. Electric vacuum pumps with built in canisters are available too. They are popular in the hot rod world. - https://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/summit-racing-electric-vacuum-pumps
  11. Ok. Your call. Vise grips always worked best for me.
  12. Hang that tailgate on the wall of your shop. That's body art!
  13. But with the vise grip, you don't need another hand to hold the ratchet on the crank bolt or the ring gear tool. The vise grip does the work by itself, allowing you to keep both hands on your torque wrench.
  14. You do know that we're talking about a Weber, not an OEM carb, right? Some early DGV's had siamesed fuel ... ports... (having a brain fart and can't think of the right word) which caused a delay in fuel delivery when the secondaries opened. Starting with the DGV 5A, the ports/chambers/whatever were individual, as in one for the primary circuit, one for the secondary. This updated design all but eliminated the characteristic bog when the secondaries opened.
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