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Stoffregen Motorsports

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About Stoffregen Motorsports

  • Rank
    Datsun Mechanic

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  • Gender
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  • Location
    Cool, CA
  • Cars
    http://www.4wdandsportutility.com/features/rover/0611_4wd_1957_range_rover/viewall.html

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  1. Stoffregen Motorsports

    Charlie69's 66 520 Build

    Those are nice looking wheels.
  2. Stoffregen Motorsports

    Project Storage tub.

    That is a sexy beast. Have you tested your intake for vacuum leaks yet?
  3. Stoffregen Motorsports

    1978 620 vg30et

    I just noticed you're in San Jose. Maybe you've mentioned it, but how are you going to get by emissions?
  4. Stoffregen Motorsports

    1978 620 vg30et

    Tight is right.
  5. Stoffregen Motorsports

    Funtana Comes to the NW

    Squeaks, rattles and clunks. Those are my favorite things - to get rid of. After a complete build on an old vehicle, the best thing you don't have to hear are the squeaks, rattles and clunks.
  6. Stoffregen Motorsports

    L20B intake/exhaust gasket... help!

    One other thought I had, why run a gasket at all? On most of the high HP racing L motors I've built, we would use Threebond 1211 in the intake ports and high temp orange RTV on the exhaust ports. The 1211 has a very high bonding strength (we actually ran a motor on the dyno without bolts holding the intake on, before we realized they were missing) and the orange high temp RTV does an exceptional job holding on less than uniform surfaces. Just a thought.
  7. Stoffregen Motorsports

    620 Land Speed Record

    Well, at least they didn't rust to the bores. Or did they?
  8. Stoffregen Motorsports

    L20B intake/exhaust gasket... help!

    Glad you got what you needed. Doc is the man.
  9. Stoffregen Motorsports

    L20B intake/exhaust gasket... help!

    That's some funny shit right there. Right for the throat. Per the gasket, I hate those hard paper gaskets. They get brittle and break. One approach I might suggest is to buy a standard old Beck Arnley intake gasket for a 240Z. Cut it up into the pieces you need and then have a gasket that makes it possible to remove the intake without destroying the exhaust portion of the gasket. It also has large ports (usually large enough for a ported engine) and the split center exhaust port. Most regular parts store gaskets for L4 motors do not have the split exhaust port anymore. One application that I used to use when buying a gasket was for a '74 610. Since they came with larger intake ports, this gasket worked for large port engines. I doubt it's still available.
  10. Stoffregen Motorsports

    Front Disc brakes LOCKED 1979 620

    Yep, sounds like a case of the master being out of adjustment. You need about 1/16" of free play at the rod going from the pedal to the master. Any free play is ok, but 1/16" is safe.
  11. Stoffregen Motorsports

    A 521 in Massachusetts

    Nice. You got it figured out. Yes, the B6ES is not a resistor plug. I can't tell you how many resistor plugs I've taken out of customers cars over the years (and thrown away). Same with projected tip plugs and fancy split electrode or three electrode plugs. These old Nissan motors just like simple plain old spark plugs (in the right heat range of course).
  12. Stoffregen Motorsports

    620 A/C compressor mount

    Good info. Thank you.
  13. Stoffregen Motorsports

    common parts between engines

    " Is the bore spacing the same or close enough so I could adapt it to my Z-22 ?" You can't use an L exhaust manifold on a Z motor. If you mean can you use an L head on a Z motor? Yes, you can, but you need to do some engine math first to make sure your compression ratio is within range.
  14. Stoffregen Motorsports

    A 521 in Massachusetts

    If you don't have a good battery cable terminal crimper, there is a cheater way to get a good connection. Put the terminal in a vise with the barrel end facing up. Strip the cable to the needed length, shove a piece of heat shrink over the cable (push it back a few inches). Brush both the cable and the barrel end with flux then heat the terminal up with a torch and fill up with solder. While it's still hot, plunge the battery cable into the terminal and hold steady until it firms up. Then take it out of the vice and peen it with a dull punch (or a cheap hammer type battery lug crimper). Push the heat shrink over the end and shrink it. I did batt cables this way for years until I finally bought one of those hydraulic hex crimpers. For the junction blocks, I really hate those ones with the set screws (as in the pic above). They really tear up the wire and are not a permanent solution in my opinion.
  15. Stoffregen Motorsports

    620 A/C compressor mount

    Sanden is relatively compact and there are a million and one aftermarket parts for them.
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