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Stoffregen Motorsports

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Stoffregen Motorsports last won the day on September 5

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About Stoffregen Motorsports

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    Datsun Mechanic

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  • Location
    Cool, CA
  • Cars
    https://www.fourwheeler.com/features/0611-4wd-1957-range-rover/

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  1. I made one and installed it on the green 320 I sold to (ol'320). Mine did not wrap completely around the top back to the door jamb, but it was a very simple piece to make and super easy to install.
  2. Depending on how long it has been sitting, I would plan on replacing the entire brake and clutch hydraulic systems. New masters, slave, wheel cylinders, hoses and blow out the hard lines. If the wheel cylinders popped and got the brake shoes wet, you'll need to replace those too. Even if the brakes work now, if it has sat for a very long time, they will eventually blow out on you. Like Crash said, throw away nothing! You probably won't be able to find original master cylinders anymore, and those original master cylinders can be rebuilt. I have a basic rule in my shop. Nothing gets thrown away until the job is done.
  3. Pull the valve cover and look for loose lash pads. Then rotate the engine and look/feel for loose valves. If you find one that is REALLY loose, it may be bent. If you don't find anything odd, adjust the valves while you're in there and button it back up. If you do need a valve, an engine machine shop can get one for you. (Surprised more people don't know about machine shops...) But yeah, valves don't just bend. A lot of shit has to happen before a valve gets bent.
  4. I recently read an article in one of my many magazines I get and it talked about cheap alternators. The metal used in cheap alternators is poor quality and can cause voltage drop issues. I'll see if I can dig up the article and maybe post a link to the online version. If I need an alternator, I either buy the best quality available, or have them rebuilt. Luckily I have a local shop that is well known for their quality of work and if I have a good core, I almost always have them rebuild it instead of buying a new or reman unit. If I don't have a good core, and can't find a good quality reman alternator, I will buy a cheap one and bring it to them to have it gone through with quality components. The shop name is Boyle Future Tech in Auburn, CA, if you're interested.
  5. Nissan/ Datsun engines of the 60s, 70s and 80s were equipped with notoriously horrible distributor curves. Set up mainly for economy and emissions, they had a wide curve that was largely affected by vacuum advance. Simply advancing the timing is a cheap trick, but can lead to too much total timing which can be very harmful to the piston rings. You could get away with adding a couple degrees under normal conditions, but if you drive hard or travel over steep hills, you may consider making some adjustments to the distributor curve.
  6. Did you touch any of the roll pins while you had it apart? It is possible to drive them in too far to the point that they can contact moving parts. That would make the shifting hard and could also be the noise. I can't think of anything else that could affect the noise and shifting both.
  7. Is the noise on throttle, off throttle or both? Maybe you never heard it before because the countershaft bearing was so loud...? Did you check to make sure the nut on the back of the mainshaft was tight? A bad driveshaft joint or misalignment in the U-joints can cause the trans to make noise. Check those two things before tearing into the trans again.
  8. I can't believe I don't have any pics of my 320 at work. I used to haul my Triumph Bonneville up to the Berkeley Hills in the back of the 320, unload and ride the hills for a few hours then load up and go back home. Perfect vintage truck/bike combo. I miss that truck.
  9. I used to install Optima batteries in all of my builds, but now that Optima is junk, I use Odyssey batteries. Not cheap though at over $300 each.
  10. Vacuum bleeding is not the best method anyway for finished product. It works well to get the system filled with fluid, but finishing with two-person pump-and-bleed is the best method.
  11. You cut into the OEM wire shielding? What wires were they? I do know that messing with wire shielding can cause problems. Have you done a hard reset on the ECU? If you have, it may be that it needs time/miles to reset before it runs well again. I know this from experience. My Land Rover with a swapped in 22RE has a battery kill switch that I switch off every time I park it, and it always runs rich for the first few minutes after starting it up. It's in a sort of limp mode until it resets the monitors. Have you cleared the codes? Is this OBDII or pre-OBDII?
  12. Hard to believe the bracket broke. I wonder what caused that to happen.
  13. Are you using the flywheel that came with the engine? And the trans that was bolted originally to the engine? Just making sure you don't have a mix-match issue.
  14. If the bolt broke, an old trick is to drill it out from one end to the other (so the bolt goes clear through) and use an L series head bolt (or other 10mm bolt). You will need to drill out the alternator lower bolt holes too. Broken lower alternator mounting bolts are common.
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