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Stoffregen Motorsports

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Stoffregen Motorsports last won the day on December 29 2018

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About Stoffregen Motorsports

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    Datsun Mechanic

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    Cool, CA
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    http://www.4wdandsportutility.com/features/rover/0611_4wd_1957_range_rover/viewall.html

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  1. There's a guy on here that built a bagged crew cab 521 with a Ford small block (I think). I think he did a horrible job. Totally unsafe and hack work. Sure, call me an ass, but I wouldn't drive my kid around in anything like he built. But yes, a crew cab dually 521 would be very cool. For what it's worth, I am trying to figure out how to build a bed for my 1970 Chevy C30 dually. One that looks like it could be original, but as we all know, Chevy didn't offer beds on their duallies until 1973. Open to suggestions.
  2. Yes, make sure the motor is at TDC on #1 cylinder, then line up the dots on the oil pump and spindle. If you are careful, you should be able to guide the pump in place without disturbing the dot alignment. Fill the pump with oil before you stab it in.
  3. I dig it. Tough to come up with new engine swap ideas these days, and you nailed it. The heims on the tie rod...not a huge fan. Even the best heims get loose after only a couple thousand miles. Not so loose that things get scary, but just enough to start hearing clicking and thunking. I always try to find an OEM solution when faced with a heim situation.
  4. I wonder if the spring was going bad, causing the fluctuation. As Duax said, mechanical pumps cause the needle to jump. I'll try the gauge snubber next time.
  5. Did you not have the spring before? That will make a difference.
  6. Charlie, your brother probably already has a system to keep the frame/chassis flat and level while everything is cut apart, but I figured I'd share one of my methods. Using 1" Acme thread, I built four "jackstands" that are very sturdy and easily adjustable. On the top, I have a removable foot, but for most frame work, the u-shaped piece works great. Once you get the truck leveled out, mark the jackstand location on the concrete floor, so if you have to move them for any reason, you know exactly where they were before. Building or modifying a chassis has many similarities with building a house. It needs to be flat, level, and square. To help ensure this, I use digital levels, bubble levels, plumb bobs, even a laser level/transit like you would see on a construction site. Lasers are great for marking straight lines on curved panels, like rooflines or inner fender wells. Anyway, here are the jackstand pics. Note - I just recently built two more lighter duty stands to use under the motor and trans. They are adjustable too, but use 3/4" all-thread.
  7. OP isn't in South Dakota, he's in NorCal, so icing won't be a problem.
  8. Inside the master, there is the pushrod, a retaining washer and the clip that holds it all together. If you have any doubts, take it apart and check that there is freeplay between the pushrod and the piston. Sometimes the retaining washer is too thick and doesn't allow the pushrod to come back far enough to release the pressure on the piston all the way. The shape of the ball on the end of the pushrod can also be massaged to gain clearance. And as Mainer said, check that the pedal isn't binding with the pushrod. I've seen this happen many times.
  9. Chain guides are adjustable, sort of, and correct chain guide geometry is crucial. When installing them (curved guide, straight guide and even the tensioner), it is best to take some time and adjust them all to get the best fit, with no extreme points of contact and a smooth, flowing curve between the tensioner and curved guide. Sometimes, this means drilling the holes bigger or slotting them, with a file. Aftermarket guides have been known to have a bad fit. Also, some aftermarket guides are made of thinner steel and not as durable.
  10. Modifying any stock type air filter housing looks the best, in my opinion. Plus, you get the large filter with more surface area than the Weber style filter. This is the housing I made for my 320. I used a Chevy valve cover grommet and a slip in nipple from NAPA for the breather.
  11. There are only a couple ways to make a better disc brake conversion. Big rotors and custom calipers is one of those ways. Rear disc conversion? Needs parking brake.
  12. I have been using "rust mort" lately and it works great for neutralizing rust. Spray it on, hose it off, dry then prime. Seems to be working fine.
  13. I don't know if you've said, but what is your fuel pressure set at? How are you regulating it?
  14. Aren't the 520/521 bodies wider too? So your bed will be wider than the cab?
  15. There were two KA24E flat pistons. The very early ones were higher compression.
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