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Stoffregen Motorsports

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Everything posted by Stoffregen Motorsports

  1. I like to plug the holes even when using a non-stock manifold. Having them plugged makes it easier to remove the intake for maintenance, mods, etc.
  2. No, a Chevy in a Ford is completely acceptable. A Ford in a Chevy is not. I've got a 22RE in my '57 Land Rover, but I use the hell out of it, so...
  3. Heat and WD40. Heat it with a torch. Not overly hot, but maybe a couple hundred degrees. Enough so that when you squirt the ,metal with the WD40, it smokes like hell. After you've soaked the studs, try right away to break them free. If they don't budge, squirt them down good and walk away until it cools down, then try to remove them. Hitting the manifold around the stud with a hammer may also help to loosen them up. If they break...not the end of the world. Sucks, yeah, but nothing a grinder, centerpunch, drill and tap won't fix.
  4. Because it's the wrong Toyota engine. 😮
  5. No rev even at full throttle? Sounds suspiciously like improper cam timing. Could be distributor timing, but there would be popping or spitting associated with that.
  6. Aftermarket replacement distributors have a very bad reputation for being "junk right out of the box". I don't know what that means, but a lot of guys won't even touch them. Your distributor could probably benefit from a peek at the timing curve. On a KA with duals, you are going to want way more than the factory spec'd 3 degrees at idle. Somewhere around 10-13 at idle is going to help, but then you need to make sure your timing doesn't go over 32 degrees at max. Then, the speed at which the timing advances off idle could use some adjusting too. This process is called "recurving a distributor" and can make massive improvements on an engine such as yours. Maybe your tuning guy can help you do this.
  7. There is not easy way to tell if the nut is loose, but you should rule out the other possibilities before pulling the trans. If you do find that 5th gear is loose on the shaft, let me know and I'll give you some pointers and advice on pitfalls to watch out for.
  8. Tuning is not always easy, or everyone would do it. Take your time and keep records of the changes you've made. Unfortunately, you're in lonesome territory here with a street driven KA with dual Webers. You did mention the distributor curve. This is very important. Which distributor are you running?
  9. The nut holding 5th gear on the back of the shaft could have come loose. This is a very common problem.
  10. You could try to recess the firewall like they did back in the 50's by cutting out the section and simply moving it back, then fill in the gaps. If you have access to sheetmetal tools you could even build in a nice radius to the filler sections. If you do not have access to those tools, you could probably find the pieces you need in some old transmission tunnel, or even a trailer fender. There is room in the radiator support to cut in the radiator, giving you some extra inches at the front of the motor. What accessories are you planning? If you don't need power steering or AC, the drive setup can be quite compact. Lots of companies out there making tidy bracket these days.
  11. The Lucas headlights, buckets and trim rings were used in many different cars and trucks from the 50's all the way through the 70's. Ranging from Sunbeam Alpine/Tiger, Morris, Mini, Austin Healey, MG, Land Rover, even the AC Cobra used the same assembly. Considering the link between Datsun/Nissan and Lucas, smart money says the entire assembly is interchangeable with an early Datsun.
  12. Do you know how to balance the carbs? With a single carb, you only need to adjust the idle speed and the idle mixture (for each barrel), but with duals, you also need to balance the two carbs at the linkage. That needs to be done first thing. So to back track, set all the idle mixture screws at about the same, then start on the linkage balance. I don't use the balance tool, I just use my ears. If it is causing you lots of trouble, it may be easier to remove the setup from the head and look down each barrel for the tiny sliver of sunlight at the edges of the throttle plate. They should all show the same amount of light. On a side note, I have noticed you using the outside throttle lever to rev it up. By using the outer arm to rev the engine, it is possible to twist a throttle shaft, as the twisting has to now through the one throttle shaft and onto the next. This is a lot of twisting force on the first throttle shaft. Centerpull setups pull on both throttle shafts in the center, between the carbs, for this reason. Though I doubt this is the problem you are having, it may be worth looking at (the sliver of light trick), and don't do it again. On a dual carb setup with centerpull linkage, you want to delete the outside idle screws and one of the inner screws, leaving only one idle adjustment screw in the middle (there should also be one on the linkage arm). You also need to make sure that you never put return springs on the outer lever arms, as this can also cause the shafts to twist.
  13. Considering that the car in question also has chrome smoothies on it, I would bet the rings are simply from an MGB or a Rover.
  14. That has got to be the ugliest 510 I have aver seen. What's up with that front end? Motor sounds good. Suspension looks tight.
  15. What are you waiting for? Fire it up!!!
  16. My '65 had the same rings as yours, Steve. The ones on the blue wagon look British, like they couldn't source the correct ones and slapped something from an MGB on there.
  17. I found this out the hard way last summer while on a trip to the Rubicon. My coil had a crack in the nose, where the coil wire was inserted. During a very deep water crossing (halfway up the radiator), the water got in the coil and almost drowned me out.
  18. If you really so have the clutch hydraulic problem, you better address it soon. Constant pressure on the back of the crank can force the oil away from the thrust bearing and wear a groove in the crank, destroying it in the process.
  19. Right, squishing the pipe there will probably make zero difference in performance. I have a jig for my press brake to squish pipe sections just for this purpose.
  20. I like how they even scribed Nissan FJ20 into the torque plate.
  21. You tackled the rear section exactly as I would have. Nice work. I have seen this truck before. Instagram maybe? I am mstoffregen on Instagram.
  22. Can of worms time... While you're in there, you may as well remove the thermostat housing from the head take it apart, clean it up and reinstall it with a new thermostat. I know, don't fix what ain't broke, but it is right there. Just try not to break the bolts holding it to the head and the bolts holding the outlet to the t-stat housing. If they don't come free right away, hit it with some heat and penetrating oil. While it is off the motor, take this time to plug any un-used holes with pipe plugs. Same goes for the water inlet under the fuel pump. If you're deleting the water pipes (nice copper pipe by the way...), you may as well remove the inlet, clean it and seal up the outlet that you're not using anymore. You can do this with a small pipe tap and tapered plug, or with JB weld, or...if you know someone with a TIG welder, have it welded shut.
  23. Measure the C to C on the pitman arm. It should have the same measurements as the idler arm. If it doesn't, then the idler is incorrect. If the measurements are the same, then maybe it's an incorrect frame bracket or the holes aren't drilled correctly.
  24. 8 x 1.25 thread pitch. Not sure on the length. Studs from a L6 should work. For informational purposes - https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/15-8080
  25. I just saw that the one linked above is listed as an "auto trans" starter. Maybe that's the difference.
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