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Stoffregen Motorsports

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Everything posted by Stoffregen Motorsports

  1. I feel that a properly sized master would negate the need for a booster. Not just a simple booster delete, but some trial and error, or math may also be involved. Agreed on the killing of innocents. I explained that to my daughter once while we were driving and I got mad at a stupid driver. She asked why I was mad and I explained that his actions could kill us. So yes, agreed.
  2. I would not use antiseize because it has abrasive qualities and can wear something like that out. For the boots, try looking in the desert race community. I would try Poly Performance, Off Road Warehouse and Kartek. The hose idea os a good idea, but grease may actually attract grit, which could cause premature wear. WIthout the grease is probably the best compromise.
  3. I spent 6.5 hours welding yesterday and thought about you guys the whole time. I like welding, but with all the calisthenics, twisting and bending around the frame I was welding up, I was sore last night. Glad to not be welding today. Threadjack over...
  4. There are only a few spots inside a vehicles mechanical systems that really make me nervous when modifying them. Certain steering parts are on that list. If there is no back up, meaning, if the part fails, you lose 100% control over that system, I try hard to come up with other options. Yes, I have built my own steering shafts and even my own steering wheel adapters, but lots of care goes into the design and execution.
  5. I agree with everything except the booster delete argument. Downsizing the master can give you the leverage required for ample brake pressure. Sure, there is a risk of running out of pedal travel, but not likely if you go down one or two bore sizes.
  6. Even the small jump from 7/8 to 15/16 can make a huge difference. I don't think Wilwood makes a 15/16 master though.
  7. Yes, you learn the settings for the different thickness metals. Also, welding in corners or upside down takes different settings than a flat butt joint. A weld bead is ideally supposed to be as wide as the thickness of the material. Run the bead in a circular pattern, with the first pass to cross the gap and then back up to fill it in. Make sense? We had a Lincoln 110v MIG for years as our only welder. I built four or five complete vehicles with that welder before we upgraded to a 225 amp 220v Lincoln. A 110v welder is good for most people and they are small too, which makes them easy to stuff in a corner.
  8. One other aspect of a sway bar that most people don't at first understand - they help keep you even just going in a straight line. Preload (or lack of) on the end link bushings is another aspect of sway bar tuning. If you want more initial turn in, and then a set for the turn, have a small space between the bushing and the bar end. This is more race car stuff and may not be what you want on the road. Try different preloads on the end links and decide for yourself. Note - on tall trucks, I want some preload on the end link bushings to keep roll steer to a minimum.
  9. Glad you found that. It's a major part of the puzzle.
  10. This quote - "Most OEM master cylinders are still single feed internally and have the same assumed “risk” to our Master Cylinder. " What they are trying to explain is that most new OEM masters utilize a single reservoir. If the reservoir leaks, you lose fluid to both circuits, got it. What they fail to explain is if the reservoir fails, you will still have enough fluid in the system for a panic stop. This is not the same as having a leak or failure with the cylinder or any other part after the cylinder. Their logic is faulty.
  11. Not arguing, just pointing out the dangers of a single circuit master. I don't care what the company tells you, a single circuit master is simply not as good as a dual circuit master. I get why they make it that way, because racers used to do it that way, and it looks cool. Sometimes looking cool is not good enough reason to make a modification. Besides, I'm sure there are plenty of dual circuit options that would bolt to that firewall plate. Like a generic Wilwood master. Wilwood bought Tilton years ago and folded the Tilton lineup into their brand. Tilton and Datsun have massive racing history, so there's your racing precedent. Don't misconstrue our advice for bashing. I like what you're doing, but I'm offering ways for you to do it better with advice learned the hard way. Yes, I've blown single circuit masters before and coasting to a stop after blowing through a stop sign is not a lot of fun.
  12. If you don't want to use rivets, you can buy plastic push fasteners that are similar to the originals at your local auto parts store. They are easier to remove than rivets and look a whole lot better. Plus, if you get the right size, they work just fine.
  13. This can be a problem. I've seen people accidentally mix and match pulleys and timing pointers. They varied from model to model and over the years. Best way to be 100% positive is to verify TDC by pulling the #1 spark plug and bringing the piston up with a socket wrench on the crank pulley bolt. Once it's there, check the pointer. Is it close?
  14. Why is it not a problem with that system? Is it in fact a dual circuit master? It looks like a single circuit master.
  15. I don't have a problem with deleting the booster. Many much heavier vehicles did not come with boosters. I've even deleted a few myself. What I do have a problem with is the single circuit master cylinder. That's a flat out safety hazard. You really couldn't fit a dual circuit master in there?
  16. Yeah, anything to do with steering is not something I take lightly. Can you imagine if the steering wheel adapter broke while you were on the freeway? Do you guys remember that sectioned crew cab 521 with the V8 a couple years ago? That guy made some errors in judgement that were safety concerns. When we called him out he sort of bragged about hacking on purpose. That's what gets me about these types of builders - they're proud of the bad decisions they make. I should look at it as a form of population control.
  17. Can you cycle the injectors in Megasquirt? Are you sure you have fuel flow? Have you bled the fuel rail?
  18. Or was it 500 in shipping?
  19. I just watched the vid. Nice $1200 tubing bender, but then notching the tubing with a grinder? Nothing distorts a tube structure worse than bad joint fit.
  20. I would give my neighbor's left nut if this truck ends up looking anything close to the digital image they started with. These guys are hacks, and they still are able to produce some decent quality work, but I would be surprised if this truck lives more than a few years. Prove me wrong. I'd love to see it.
  21. Oil pan gaskets leak. Period. Either now or eventually. I have given up on gaskets and use only "The Right Stuff" RTV on all old tech engines. Ditch the gasket.
  22. I've seen them with and without that inner panel on the tailgate, but never questioned if it was original or aftermarket. I did find this though - https://allmusclecarparts.com.au/datsun/1200-sedan-ute/ute-tailgate.html
  23. I've seen both professionally applied and DIY spray in bedliner failures. I suspect the failures are due to bad prep. If you're going to use your bed for hauling heavy things that you need to slide in and out (ie- engine blocks, etc) I wouldn't use any spray in or rubber bedliner, as it makes it near impossible to slide things in and out. I do like the rubber mat idea. You can buy bulk matting on Amazon. Last year I made custom floor mats for my restored CJ5 that I auctioned on BaT. I couldn't find any mats so I ordered a roll of bulk restaurant rubber floor mat and cut it to fit.
  24. At least the new cars equipped with them upside down, have a sort of tray to allow them to drain into something without making a huge mess.
  25. I've never understood why given the chance to mount a filter so it's easy to remove, guys still insist on mounting them upside down.
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