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Stoffregen Motorsports

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Everything posted by Stoffregen Motorsports

  1. Nice job. Farm trucks don't need return lines, but a vent may be helpful. If you still have the charcoal canister, use it. If you want t delete it altogether, make sure your tank doesn't pressurize or you may get a facefull of fuel when removing the cap.
  2. If you want to use the 620 column, you will have some machine work to do to get the lower portion of it supported in the tube. A few years ago, I did a write up on a balljoint conversion, and part of that job was making a new column/steering shaft. Check that link for how to make your -
  3. Every L 4 that we ever dyno'd while I was working for Rebello, made more HP with the right muffler than with no muffler at all. Even on the GT class engines. A straight through Borla was our muffler of choice.
  4. Nice! I don't know how much experience you have with custom engine builds, but I would take a minute to knock the sharp edges off the piston domes. Any little sharp edge can cause detonation and a simple smoothing with a cartridge roll or a flap wheel on a die grinder can knock those down in no time. Also, drill the #2 and #4 main bearing oil feed holes to 1/4", do the same with the #2 and #4 bearings. Chamfer all the holes before assembly. This gives much needed extra oiling to the rods.
  5. You could use oval tubing where it goes under the axle.
  6. While possible to use a power steering box with the ports connected together, it will have some drag to it. A non-power box would not have this drag. Electronic power steering is becoming very popular these days, with a few aftermarket offerings. Hot rod guys use them, so if you don't want a clunky OEM unit under your hood, try searching the web for aftermarket units. Here's a link to some steering shaft parts that may come in handy. 11/16 is roughly 17mm - https://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/borgeson-universal-steering-u-joints/shaft-end-2/11-16-in-36-spline Use a Borgeson collapsable shaft - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/brg-450024/overview/ And then to connect to the column, you could mill the Datsun shaft with two flats to utilize a 3/4" DD joint. I've done this many times. - https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/steering-u-joints/shaft-end-1/3-4-in-dd/shaft-end-2/1-in-dd?N=4294924069%2B4294894928%2B4294894936&SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=borgeson
  7. Someone obviously removed the choke.
  8. Why not out the side? How about up into the bed and out the tailgate? My 83 Toyota uses a muffler with inlet and outlet on the same end. this was so I could have a full length exhaust, but have it exit the side. I also used oval tubing to exit, just for fun as a nod to racing.
  9. I don't know if I agree with you. That first carb looks suspiciously like a "smog legal" Weber that was available for Datsuns for a long time. I believe Redline sold the kit, and it used that same carb. You're right that the carb was used on many other applications. I think guys used to call it a Fiat Weber.
  10. You're positive about the spline counts? There are no 28 or 35 spline joints in the aftermarket, at least that I could find. Are you sure those spline counts did not include a double or fat spline? There is a 17mm 36 spline joint available, and I use an 11/16 36 spline joint on the Toyota boxes.
  11. Mike was suggesting a 280zx steering box, which has a splined input. Does anyone have a box they could get spline count and diameter from? Either a 720 or 280ZX box? I am sure I could find an aftermarket universal joint to fit the box.
  12. I have a 720 column in back of the shop. It's gutted of everything, but the tube remains. I do recall it having a rather small OD though.
  13. It all depends on how thorough you are. It took me over 8 hours to remove an entire wiring harness from a Lexus LS400 a few years ago. I could have saved about 4 hours by cutting wires, but I wanted every bit of it to remain intact.
  14. RTV is a polarizing topic. Some people (Chevy owners) use it like Italians use olive oil. Others prefer it stay in the tube. I am of the opinion that it is a valuable tool in the toolbox. Front cover gaskets, if they are the good OEM type, don't need any RTV, except at the top corners (inside and out), where just a dab does the trick. I do use Gasgacinch to help glue them in place, but it's arguable whether or not it does any actual sealing. Nissan used similar glue on the engine assembly line. Oil pan gaskets - I've pretty much stopped using them altogether. The Right Stuff black RTV is way better than any oil pan gasket. It can get messy if you use too much, as it will squish out the bolt holes and onto the bolt heads before they are completely tightened. Don't be shy with it though. Just plan ahead the spots you want to avoid.
  15. Is the 720 column a bolt-in for the 620?
  16. Crazy wheel color. I love it!
  17. Oh boy... Steep learning curve, but once you've had to deal with it, you won't make the same mistakes again.
  18. If it's a 1976 620, it has the enclosed steering shaft attached to the steering box. Some fabrication will be required to make your column work with the 280zx box.
  19. I think they ended up installing individual LED headlights for actual road use. I found pics of the car having one on each side, which they did not show during the build process on TV.
  20. Right. The only time red loctite posed a real problem was on a set screw inside of a Borgeson steering joint. I had to heat the metal around the threads so much that it almost destroyed the seals around the u-joint. I did manage to get the set screw out without damaging the joint, but it was a close call. Throttle shaft screws that have loctite on them can be removed, but you will need a quality screwdriver (Snap-On) and you will need to rock them back and forth to work the screw out. Trying to get it on the first shot almost always leaves the head of the screw rounded out.
  21. That is a problem whenever repairing any structural body components. Exterior panels often hide structural ribs and those hidden parts are usually more deteriorated than the exterior panels. Getting to them is like peeling the layers of an onion. I always try to remove panels at the factory weld joints instead of cutting mid span, but this can be very complicated. I recently removed a pair of front fenders from a Sunbeam Alpine, and the only way to get them off was to destroy them. I had to come up with a plan ahead of time on how to remove them to minimize the destruction, but there were so many structural layers that it was impossible to get to the backside of any of the factory weld points. Luckily I had a donor clip that I was able to dissect ahead of time which gave me a layout of the structure. The removal of the replacement fenders from the donor clip was done differently as I did not have to be careful of damaging the structure. At the end of the day, what I ended up with was a scrap clip with usable fenders from the donor and a scrap pair of fenders but usable structure from the car we repaired. Fabricating panels is par for the course when repairing classic vehicles. Luckily, interior structure panels are usually simple in design and can often be made with a simple sheetmetal brake. So to answer your question - you will probably need to fabricate the inner parts or have a metal shop make rough panels that you can fit yourself.
  22. A billet grill with vertical bars would look very nice. It would need a perimeter ring inside the recess, but around the vertical bars. Did you guys see that Kindig built '67 Coronet with the custom grill and perimeter LED headlights? Wow! What a cool idea. They deleted the headlights altogether and made one perimeter headlight from about 200 LEDs. I can't find any pics of the headlights online, but here's the car - https://www.google.com/search?q=kindig+coronet&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiYk6vvyPjiAhWFLHwKHSL0DzsQ_AUIECgB&biw=1680&bih=908
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