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Stoffregen Motorsports

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Everything posted by Stoffregen Motorsports

  1. That would solve many problems.
  2. Yeah those hex crimpers are super cool. Using the right cable is important too. The cable I use has fewer strands than a welder cable and they seem to hold the crimp better. I do a double crimp with the hydraulic crimper and do not use solder anymore. A double wrap of heat shrink keeps the connection dry. The only thing I dislike about the tool is that all the dies are labeled in metric. Writing the AWG size on each die with a sharpie was my solution. This is the one I bought - https://www.ebay.com/itm/16-Ton-Hydraulic-Wire-Terminal-Crimper-Battery-Cable-Lug-Crimping-Tool-w-Dies/131890182285?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 But there are others available.
  3. Does it have any give or is it rock hard?
  4. Love to. We've often toyed with the idea of opening up a Nissan/Datsun line of parts, but there are too many reasons holding these trucks back. Transmission and t-case options being chief among them. I did come up with a way to get a Dana 300 transfer case behind a Datsun L/Z/KA motor, but it involves the ultra rare 280zx turbo T5 bellhousing.
  5. Here's a 70 series Land Cruiser trail rig I built. This truck works as it should on the trail.
  6. In case you missed what I said about using them on rock crawlers. They can be beneficial even on a rock crawler. I'll explain how. If you have sturdy rear springs (strong enough to carry all your camping gear) and soft front spring (for nice ride), your articulation is now un-balanced by the differing spring rates (weight distribution and other factors come into play too). Now install a front sway bar and notice that the articulation is more even from front to rear. I've built many trucks this way with instructions to my customers to not disconnect the sway bars on the trail.
  7. That would be a fun swap. How about converting it to rear wheel drive?
  8. I install sway bars even on just about every vehicle I build here in the shop. From road going SUVs to the most aggressive rock crawlers, they all get sway bars. Sway bars should be looked at as just another spring. If the torsional spring rate is factored into the actual spring rate, then it does not upset the balance from front to rear of the truck. Sway bars can actually help just going straight down the road too, by limiting the body roll and thus limiting the roll steer. This is also a huge factor in building a trial rig that's safe to drive on the road.
  9. Oh boy. That truck is crusty. Got your work cut out for you there.
  10. 4ga wire going into the cab? That's basically small battery cable. 90 amp alternator needs a 4ga wire for anything 6-12 feet from the alternator post to where it ties in to the positive battery cable.
  11. Cool, so you got that base covered. The shims/blocks have a built in angle and can be installed with the angle to the front or to the rear. I don't do lowered trucks, so I am not sure what other guys with lowered 521's are doing, but maybe you need a block with no angle, less of an angle or take them out and turn them around. Coilovers imply you will be doing a link suspension. Links won't use shims or blocks, but you will have to know about suspension geometry. Google search for "3 link calculator" to find an XLS program to help you with your design. And please don't do a parallel 4 link rear. That's just so unimaginative and you can get far better results with a 3 link or a triangulated 4 link. Here's a front suspension I designed and built for a BJ74 Toyota Land Cruiser a few years ago, so you can see how the calculator works.
  12. 1 to 3 degrees is perfect, 4 is getting outside the acceptable range. One theory is that if they are exactly matched, there can be a flutter. For some reason, I tend to agree with that theory. 2 degrees down on the pinion? I would not want my pinion shaft pointing towards the ground. If you raise it, can you also make adjustments to the trans height? Or is that fixed? When I build trans crossmembers now, if there is any doubt as to future driveline angle needs, I install a couple 1/4" plate shims, which I can remove as needed. Also, on a truck, you have to decide if you want the angles to be set when there is no load in the bed or with it loaded. Some guys plan on carrying loads on a regular basis and will want the angles set with that in mind. You can also split the difference, but then you have the worst of both worlds.
  13. Whatever you do, hang onto it or pass it along to another Datsun freak. They aren't making new heads anymore... I'd have it welded.
  14. Yeah, I was confused about that. Thanks for clarifying.
  15. Sorry if I missed it but have you checked to see that the pedal isn't running out of travel, ie - hitting the floor?
  16. You all have to understand that Jeff the distributor guy is a 1%er. He's at the top of the distributor game. He knows his stuff and he's proven it time and again. Arguing about points vs electronic needs to be apples to apples, not apples to donuts. Argument 1 - points require more maintenance than electronic. Argument 2 - points can make more horsepower than electronic. Argument 3 - most people want reliability now days, hence the mass of available electronic conversions on the market. Keywords here - maintenance, reliability, power. We all know what maintenance is, and some want as little as possible while others are willing to do more to be able to go to eleven. The word reliability as relates to engines should not be used in a negative way. More reliability can often lead to less horsepower (think valvetrain). Power, some want the max, some just want enough. Don't argue that one is better than the other, because all things are not equal.
  17. Well, no one uses distributors either, so...
  18. You need to get a vise, a torch and a grinder. I bent my own wrench a very long time ago and I still use it to this day.
  19. Everything looks great. Glad to hear she's a healthy baby and mamma's alright too (?) Complications suck. On the fan shroud, you should make some holes in the areas where there is no fan. Why? I spoke with a tech at Be Cool a few years back, when I was building my own fan shrouds for a specific engine swap I do, and he told me that if the air comes in and has nowhere to go, it will bounce back and disrupt the cooling. If you look at their dual fan with built in shroud, it has holes covered with rubber flaps that open when air is blowing through them but get sucked shut when the electric fan is pulling. Even if the holes aren't covered, they will help with this situation. I have cut holes in the corners of the shroud (1.5"-2") and left them open and that seems to work fine too.
  20. Everything looks good so far, as long as the pistons match what you have. I like the idea of using the KA oversize pistons for two reasons - as Mike mentioned, you can raise the CR by over a point, and second, they use a better, more modern ring pack (steel top ring and a more compact grouping).
  21. It's not likely that in your lifetime you will ever need to bore the engine again, so I would go the max bore size, which is usually .040", inches, or 1.0MM metric. Cranks on Nissans are very stout and often times only need a polish. I would tell the machine shop to polish only if possible and use standard size bearings. One word of caution- on the pistons, since there were a few variations of that engine, be sure the pistons you are ordering have the same dish/dome/flat top, whatever. If you want to increase the compression, look into one of these variations as a possibility. And be sure to do the engine math to calculate the compression ratio too. Around 10:1 CR is great for a Nissan street engine.
  22. The rear main engine seal is one that I don't fix if it aint broke. Factory Nissan rear seals last a long time and aftermarket rear main seals are not always the best quality. Unless you are also planning on dropping the pan to seal it up too. Can of worms time...
  23. @RustedRails - if you plan an engine swap that needs to pass emissions, the most effective way to get it done is to buy a donor vehicle. The donor will have all the components you will need for a legal swap. You will need every component that makes it run, plus a lot of the wiring and yes, the fuel tank. I don't know if you can bolt up a D21 fuel tank in the 620, but I like to use the donor tank for its pieces. The EFI pump, vapor return ports, etc all get cut off the donor tank and welded onto the vehicle's original tank. It is possible to piece together all the parts required for a legal swap, but the donor vehicle is like a road map, helping you find the way. Here's how I did a tank for a 3RZ Toyota swap
  24. Engine kits almost always use inferior components. Right, that sounds like a huge generalization, but in the case of the Datsun/Nissan kits, they almost always use aluminum engine bearings (as opposed to tri-metal bearings), the rings are usually cast iron (sprayed chrome would be better, chromoly is best), and the gaskets included int he kits are thin cardboard (not the compressed fiber gaskets like OEM). Sourcing the individual parts is more time consuming, but well worth the effort.
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