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Stoffregen Motorsports

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Everything posted by Stoffregen Motorsports

  1. Stoffregen Motorsports

    A 521 in Massachusetts

    Hang in there buddy. It only gets worse from here... Family life has a way of putting the brakes on fun projects.
  2. Stoffregen Motorsports

    81’ 210, i broke her... HELP

    Come on zacc...what's the verdict?
  3. Stoffregen Motorsports

    Disc Brake Conversion on 71 521

    I was going to mention that exact thing. Discs are better at handling heat. I live in the mountains, and heavy, constant braking is common here even when just going to town. I use Hawk red pads on my daily driver (Dodge 2500 Cummins) just for that reason. Our family car also has vented/drilled/slotted rotors and Hawk pads. Fact is, disc brakes are much easier to own, drive, maintain...and they work better under harsh conditions. Drums work fine too in most situations, but I think we all agree on the cons of drum brakes. I haven't brought it up here, but how about the complete balljoint front clip install? Better geometry, better bushings/joints, better brakes too. Lots of work though.
  4. Stoffregen Motorsports

    Disc Brake Conversion on 71 521

    Both of you are right. Most projects never got off the ground floor. How many engine swaps have we all seen started but not completed? That kills me, because it's essentially deducting one good Datsun from the mix. Simple upgrades like a disc brake conversion should be encouraged though, so I am with Mainer on this one too. Keep it positive...but realistic.
  5. Stoffregen Motorsports

    78 Sr20det 620 Salvage title to boosted!

    I use the Tanks INC pumps. No, they don't look as nice as a cool billet aluminum piece, but they are much less expensive. Isn't it nice to find hoses that fit? I hate having to splice hoses with couplers.
  6. Stoffregen Motorsports

    A 521 in Massachusetts

    For final assembly, I put two 2x4s on the ground (one to support the bellhousing on either side of the input shaft), then stand the bellhousing on end. Apply RTV and lower the trans into the bellhousing/front case. Tailshaft comes last. You need the 2x4s or the input shaft will hit the floor.
  7. Stoffregen Motorsports

    A 521 in Massachusetts

    Yes, the pin gets removed, but the shifter assembly stays inside the tailhousing. Removing the pin makes it possible to rock it back and forth enough to get the fork lined up. Same goes for that "bolt". There's actually a detent spring and ball inside there so remove with caution, and maybe a small magnet to catch the ball. That should be all that needs doing to get the tailhousing off. Again, before you apply RTV for reassembly, try a couple of dry runs installing the tailhousing. This way you'll learn the tricks before you make a mess of the RTV. Obviously, you need to install both halves of the case upon final assembly.
  8. Stoffregen Motorsports


    When going with a much wider wheel, measuring the backspacing is more important than measuring the offset. https://www.americastire.com/learn/offset-backspace?cid=3b876a09-97eb-4b73-8580-0ff7e351324f&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIycDsi42Y3wIVhsBkCh3L9w9KEAAYASAAEgLu0_D_BwE
  9. Stoffregen Motorsports

    510 subframe/chassis upgrades

    Yep, been in Cool for about 12 years now. Came from the East Bay. Couldn't stand what the bay area was turning into...
  10. Stoffregen Motorsports

    I gots Chinesed!

    There are certain items that I will only purchase from reliable sources that I already do business with. In the case of U-joints, I only buy them from my local driveline shop. The owner there always knows which manufacturers are best and which ones to avoid. A lot of things are OK to buy online, but not everything. Not unless you have specifics up front.
  11. Stoffregen Motorsports

    510 subframe/chassis upgrades

    Basedon first hand knowledge that a stock, un-caged 510 body tub can split itself in half over a career of hard use, I will say that any bracing is beneficial. I wish I had the presence of mind to take pics of the first 510 I ever owned, when we tore it apart and threw away the body tub. It was literally falling apart at the seams. No, it wasn't from rust either. It was a street car that was track driven regularly. Another bit of valuable hindsight would have been to not throw the car away at all, but to stash it on the pallet rack to fix it someday. 510's were cheap back then.
  12. Stoffregen Motorsports

    Timing chain wedge

    Dropping a lash pad down inside the front cover is another of those angry moments.
  13. Stoffregen Motorsports

    A 521 in Massachusetts

    I'm a Chevy owner. Right now I've got at least three Chevy trucks. That doesn't make me a hack either. Maybe it's because I was a Datsun owner first then ended up with domestic vehicles later...?
  14. Stoffregen Motorsports

    510 subframe/chassis upgrades

    Seam welding will help immensely, but I would also consider a strut tie bar (home made or bought) and a steering box brace. A good roll cage will help a ton also, but it sounds like you aren't too excited about adding one. You could do a low profile cage. Something that pokes through the dash to the strut towers, but then runs low across the front door openings and ties into the rear suspension/rear bulkhead. I have never considered under carriage strengthening, as I would normally build a cage instead, but some well placed square or rectangular tubing might help a little. The problem with that approach is that the gained strength would be for-aft strength, and maybe some twisting strength, but there would be no additional suspension mounting point strength gains, which is what the 510 needs the most. BTW - you don't need to fully weld the seams in the engine bay (or anywhere else for that matter). A simple stitch weld about every 3 or 4 inches will do the trick. Include the box section of the "frame rails" in your stitch welding for maximum results.
  15. Stoffregen Motorsports

    A 521 in Massachusetts

    Removing the tailhousing is not a big deal. You will have to wiggle it around a bit to get it loose, but once you do, you can now see how it goes back together. It's always easiest to assemble everything while the trans is not in a gear, then the shift rail fingers all line up, making it easy to install the tailhousing. This is not a corner I would cut.
  16. Stoffregen Motorsports

    240Z LS Swap - Advice Wanted

    Approached by a customer the other day about some upgrades to his wide body '73 240Z. It's not a particularly special car, no need need to keep it stock, so I suggested an LS swap. Questions: does anybody make anything in kit form for this swap? If so, are the parts good quality? Do they look nice? Function well? Fit well? transmission - we'd like to run a 5 spd manual. Any advice on which trans fits best and handles the horsepower. motor - truck vs car. Truck intakes are taller, which may cause hood clearance issues, but the truck accessory drive may work better for the 240Z. Or is there a custom accessory drive that works well in these cars that doesn't look like the 1980's CNC factory threw up? Yes, we want to run A/C. That's about it really. LS swaps are not new to me, but I do them mostly in trucks and older Land Cruisers. This will be my first Datsun LS swap. Any input would be great. Anything except how we should keep the stock L6 😬. As I said, this car is not special, so the door's wide open for mods. Here's a pic of my last swap so you guys know I'm serious.
  17. Stoffregen Motorsports

    A 521 in Massachusetts

    I think if you are removing the front case, you should also remove the rear case (tailhousing). Most times when trying to save the time, you actually create more of a job because now the rear section is likely to leak since the RTV got disturbed by all that banging. FYI - I use a putty knife to split the cases, and if any burrs arise from that, I simply file them down before reassembly. Use the right stuff RTV when putting it back together, and do not use a gasket on the front cover.
  18. Stoffregen Motorsports

    Timing chain wedge

    That was another one of the tools I used for that job, but I had a slug of solid round steel stuffed inside the hose.
  19. Stoffregen Motorsports

    Timing chain wedge

    No, but it's on my list. I think it's time I get up to speed and buy one.
  20. Stoffregen Motorsports

    Timing chain wedge

    I use a long Snap-On screwdriver for keeping the tensioner in place. Never let me down. You could always cut the spring. We've discussed it before, but none of you guys seem to like the idea. Too bad too. I've cut the spring on many, many L engines, and as long as the guide geometry is set up properly, with enough tension on the chain, there are never any side effects as some of you have proposed.
  21. Stoffregen Motorsports

    2.3l ford ecoboost in a dime

    I am always on the lookout for an interesting swap. I like the idea of a turbo motor for a 510 because of the easy horsepower, but other motors have caught my attention too. I love the old GM Quad 4 motors. Though they are difficult to find performance parts for, the packaging is tidy. I forget the name of the website, but there is a site that specializes in used racing engines for sale. Some of the factory only offerings are high on my list of wants. I definitely want to swap an SB2 Chevrolet or a Toyota Nascar V8 into something someday. A while back, I found an old Prince V8, like Nissan used in the IMSA GTP, GTO and GTS cars. That would be an awesome Datsun/Nissan swap.
  22. Stoffregen Motorsports

    78 Sr20det 620 Salvage title to boosted!

    Nice work.
  23. Stoffregen Motorsports

    After market mirrors move too easily

    It seems all aftermarket mirrors suck whether they are on a 2003 Dodge, a 1998 GMC, a 1987 Land Cruiser, or a vintage Datsun. I don't know why these manufacturers can't figure it out.
  24. Stoffregen Motorsports

    mrbigtankers 521

    Have you considered remote mounting the reservoirs? Tilton used to sell a kit for Datsuns and you can get that same kit from Wilwood. I've used them plenty. Here's one 510 I installed them on.
  25. Stoffregen Motorsports

    Looking for a rear 4x4 differential

    Yes, good point. Check your u-joint phasing. They should be inline with each other. Read - http://www.managedmobile.com/driveshaft-phasing-importance/

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