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Stoffregen Motorsports

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Everything posted by Stoffregen Motorsports

  1. Why not? Try here - https://www.roughtrax4x4.com/toyota-4x4-parts/axle-rear.html
  2. Look here for all the different types of clevis pins - https://www.mcmaster.com/pin-fasteners/
  3. You can get generic un-threaded pins at any hardware store. Some have a single split pin hole and others have multiple holes. You can cut the long ones with multiple holes to length. Don't use a bolt. That's hack.
  4. For the cost of a ultra-rare used Datsun LSD, you can do an entire Toyota axle swap and have your choice of limited slip, Detroit, air or electric locker or even a spool. Gear sets for an 8" Toyota diff cost about $200 and bearing kits around $100. Disc brake kits are available too, but most are junk, though there are a couple kits that work well and have a price to match.
  5. There are different overdrive ratios between the 5 speeds. The most sought after is the ZX box with the barely noticeable overdrive, but for a truck, any wide ratio 5 speed will do the trick. It may be personal preference, and also have something to do with where I live, but I don't mind having a deeper diff ratio. These small motors can run all day long at 4000 rpms. They don't care at all.
  6. No, the new fuel here in CA is sticky. Even new fuel can cause things to jamb up. Disassemble a carb or fuel valve or even remove a fuel line and you'll see a white calcium-like residue. Motorcycle and other small engine carbs are the most affected because of the tiny orifices inside them, which don't take much to clog up.
  7. I was always under the impression that the cup type and the concave type of freeze plugs were interchangeable. Am I wrong? Either way, I always put a thin coating of super weatherstrip adhesive on freeze plugs when installing them.
  8. In the future, the easiest way to diagnose a stuck float is by smacking the carb near the needle and seat, with the blunt handle of a screwdriver. This usually jars the float enough to unstick the needle valve. There may not be any grit causing it to stick. It could just be from the additives in modern fuel. I have noticed over the past couple years sticking floats becoming more of a problem, even on vehicles that I use regularly.
  9. Hoses do go bad. They swell up on the inside and can trap pressure or restrict flow, or both. With the entire parts package costing only about $150, I'd replace everything. And flush the hard line while you're at it. No sense chasing a problem when you can have an all new system for less than a couple hundred bucks.
  10. I installed a two piece lip seal conversion in my dad's TD engine. It didn't work very well, so we converted it with the full seal kit.
  11. I doubt anyone has built a modern engine using this head, and lots of power has been found since then. What I mean is, if this engine (in GT trim) made 260hp back in 1974, it is probably capable of 325hp now. Or more. When BRE was building the L16 for SCCA or Trans Am, they made 175hp on a good day. When I left Rebello in 1999, we were getting 230hp from a GT4 L16. I don't remember the hp numbers from a similar GT2 L28 in the late '90s, but it was definitely over 300hp. With a production based cylinder head.
  12. The boot on the master inside the cabin is only a dust boot and does not seal any fluid or air, so replacing the boot won't fix the problem. Did you notice if there was fluid leaking inside the cab? Black fluid is a sign of serious crud inside the system. If it's black at the reservoir, then the inside of the master is likely the problem.
  13. The LY head is a single cam crossflow head. I believe it was originally used on the 240z rallye cars. https://www.viczcar.com/forums/topic/4286-overview-of-l6-engine-heads/
  14. I learned how to install a rope seal on an early Chevy small block. Proper installation is easiest when the motor is disassembled. Basically, you need to be able to feel the amount of drag caused by the crushing of the rope material. I believe all rope seal material is covered with a graphite coating, which aids in not only the sealing, but also acts as a lubricant for the crank, allowing it to seat in place without destroying the rope. Since it does cause so much drag on the crank's rotation, it's wise to mock up the rest of the rotating assembly before you install the rope seal, otherwise the drag could hide another underlying problem. Obviously the ends are staggered in the block and cap, and they are left a bit long so they can crush together. I don't remember if a sealant is applied to the tips of the ends, but it seems logical. Once you have the rope seal in place, then the rest of the short block can be assembled. I have never replaced a rope seal in a running engine. The crank needs to come out to do the job and this is the opening of the worm can.
  15. If I recall, the noise can be repaired by simple lubrication, if caught early enough.
  16. I doubt it. Rope seals actually seal up quite well and last for a loooooong time, but knowing how to install one is the first hurdle.
  17. Nice work. Yeah, leave the guy's name out of it until the problem is resolved. Or not resolved...
  18. Isky 287 cam is a good, yet dated street cam. The design goes back to the '70s. There are a couple simple custom engine recipes, but if you just want a good runner, build the L20B and call it done.
  19. Get a timing light on there and check the timing before you damage the motor. Too much timing can cause piston rings to break and in extreme cases, rod bearing to get squished and fail.
  20. I don't think this motor accepts a rope seal. I think it's a reverse scroll like on BMC motors. That said, there are a few companies that make lip seal conversions for A series and XPAG motors. I wonder if one would work on the Datsun - https://xpagdevelopments.com/products/crankshaft-rear-seal-kit https://www.spridgetmania.com/part/RIC777/Crankshaft-Oil-Seal-Kit---1275--Sprite--Midget
  21. Clicking sounds from a speedo usually mean imminent death. These guys have repaired speedos for me in the past - https://www.dicksspeedotach.com/phoenix-az/ Usually around $200 for a completely repaired gauge.
  22. We had a bad wasp problem here in NorCal last year. So bad that I even called my bug guy to see what he could do. Yes, bees make nests just about anywhere. So bad that bees have made the diagnostic check list. EVAP problems? Check your purge solenoid vent for mud bees, and so on... Do not take apart a booster. Leave that to the rebuilders. There is a shop here in Sacramento that rebuilds boosters - https://powerbrakes.com/ I don't mess around with parts that could kill you if they fail. Stock brass radiators last a lot longer than aluminum and are repairable. Aluminum/plastic radiators are throwaway.
  23. I just showed my nine year old son this thread. He's all into car crushers and snowrunner, both games you get to build your own crazy vehicles. This one's pretty crazy and I wanted to show him that people actually build stuff like he sees on the video games.
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