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Stoffregen Motorsports

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Everything posted by Stoffregen Motorsports

  1. Ive even seen washers welded to the top and the bottom of the iron shift lever, acting like solid bushings, but without the crush safety factor.
  2. The only aftermarket item ever for that transmission shifter was a pair of solid tapered aluminum bushing that replaced the soft rubber bushings. That mod firmed it up a bit, but the throws remained the same. There are a handful of small bushings in the strike rod and shift rod pivot mechanism that can wear out, leaving you with a ton of play. The plastic cross pin bushings can be replaced with bronze for a slightly firmer feel too.
  3. Checking to see if the cam spins freely should be done without the rockers in place. Since some of your valves look to be open in the pics, I would say your rockers need to be removed before you can check the see how the cam spins. Not super important, but keep the rockers and lash pads in order, so they can go back in the same spots (lash pads more important, if they are different thickness).
  4. Yes, there are advantages for CVs vs Ujoint axles. Vibrations caused by lowered suspension can be annoying in a 510, especially if the rear crossmember is not slotted o modified to allow camber and toe adjustments. Also, with some of the Subaru diffs, swapping out the 510 inner gears and adding the nut from the Datsun R160 makes it a simple bolt in job. But this requires tearing down the LSD unit to get inside. Not difficult, but there is a learning curve there.
  5. I was going to suggest a WD40 bath, but figured you already tried that.
  6. One issue without accelerator pumps is cold start. SUs are notorious for this, which is why I've always levitated towards Mukini side drafts or Weber DGV carbs.
  7. You know, I've never tried these motorcycle carbs on a car, but enough of you guys are doing it, it sounds compelling. And you're right, probably more bang for the fabrication buck.
  8. The A14 is a great motor with lots of potential. The first thing I would do is get a DGV or even a pair of SUs. The stock intake manifold isn't great, because of the tiny plenum, but if you can TIG weld and have some machining skills, it's not hard to double the size of the plenum by welding in a part of a DGV conversion manifold from a 240Z. One very quick mod is the distributor. You can re-curve it and maximize your timing advance to gain a couple HP and snappier response. A good exhaust system with an early A12 exhaust manifold (from a 1200 I think) will give you a few more HP. Good headers are out there, but stay away from cheap headers. You could always regear the diff too. Other than that, everything else is internal engine stuff. I used to build these with 160hp for SCCA GT5 and DSR racers. They revved to 10K+ and needed rebuilding after two or three races.
  9. The whole reason brass nuts are used on exhaust is so that they do not rust to the stud, so I would bet they come right off. I've never had a problem breaking them free. As a matter of fact, brass nuts are notorious for backing themselves off. I tend to use stake nuts on exhaust studs to keep them tight.
  10. Yes, you have to go low enough to clear the oil pan and other parts, but even on low cars, you can still find the room. And also yes, the tires do have bumps on the sidewalls, but if you fit the bar across an even surface, or even across the same bumps on either side of the tire, it's pretty accurate. At least within a 1/16 or so. Funny things is, I always set toe by eye first, and then check it with my toe boards, and I'm almost always right on the money. It's a personal challenge.
  11. Yes, the term is eluding my brain right now...scab plates? Funny, because I fabricate for a living. I would run them completely internal and then plug weld them to the existing frame. If you read the whole thread, you may have noticed the part about the torsion bar width, well when the 720 frame was narrowed to the right width for the 320 torsion bars to work, the frame widths were about 1/4" per side off, so there was a step in the welded joint, which is where I put the scab plates. I'm sure I could figure out a cleaner method now. And then there was the one pate on the front frame crossmember that stood out like a sore thumb. That could have been hidden completely by inserting it inside the frame. I have done frame shortening before without scab plates. If you do a z-notch, when you bring the two cut frame halves together, they fit together like a puzzle with a short vertical weld joint, followed by a long horizontal joint, and then finished with another vertical weld joint at the opposite end from the other vertical joint. This way is supposedly the strongest method of joining structural steel without and scab plates, But precise measuring, scribing and cutting are required to get it done right.
  12. To check toe, I use 3ft long pieces of aluminum channel, and since I work alone, I bungee cord each one to each front wheel (horizontally, just below wheel centerline), then use a tape measure to measure the distance between the two behind the tire and then in front of the tire. Example - If it's 59" in the rear and 58.75" in the front, you've got .250" toe in.
  13. Thanks Charlie. I will add that the difference between the stock 320 and the 320 with the 720 clip was remarkable. Not just the braking, but the steering was lighter and more acute, and the harshness from kingpin suspension was gone. The most difficult portion of this job was the steering column. If you may recall, I retained the upper 320 column, but made it self supported with bearings and seal from the 720 donor column and by welding on a plate that bolted to the firewall. It wasn't actually difficult, but the machining and measuring time was a lot more than I expected. Looking back, after all these years, I would do this swap again, but I would make cleaner frame plates or even try to hide them inside the frame.
  14. Is that an early Ford 9" in the rear? If so, what wheel bolt pattern is it?
  15. The truck in the pics looks pretty tired. But all that aside, I imagine owning this truck would be like owning a mid '70s Chevy Monza with a V8. Can't get my hands in there to get the spark plug out, so I'll just cut a hole in the fender well. Also, I bet the rest of the truck needs everything. Heck, even the long u-bolts they installed for the lowering blocks are rusted. It's been a while since any meaningful work has been done on this truck. Still kinda cool though, in a teenage dream sort of way.
  16. Almost forgot to get to the point... I do use Redline MT90 in all of my modern manual transmissions.
  17. I had a crash course in ATF a while back. Can't remember the specifics, but when I asked my auto trans rebuilder about the differences, he said that older ATF, ie- Dexron III and earlier, plus Mercon and some others, have a high gear oil content and are non-synthetic. Newer ATF is usually full synthetic can contains less gear oil. When I made a mistake and half-filled a new trans with older fluid, he said it wouldn't really matter. Also, for what it's worth, my Dodge Ram uses ATF in the power steering system, but Dodge relabels the ATF with a special power steering brand name, and it's literally identical. They are just trying to have you stock your shelves with both ATF and PS fluid. In a nutshell, branding and labeling of ATF is probably similar to inexpensive central CA wines, which are blended from the same stock in massive tanks and sold off to wineries for finishing.
  18. One other trick is to turn the wheel to full lock and hold it there for a couple seconds. The fluid takes a second to catch up to the steering box movement and holding it at full lock allows it to bypass and bleed off more effectively. Do this in both directions with the engine off and then again with the engine running. I use a pulley mounted on a spindle and then run it in a drill, then use a short belt to run the pump. This way I can run the pump more slowly than the engine can allowing for more precision in bleeding. Once you have air that tuns into bubbles, you need to let it sit a while before you can attempt to bleed again, like overnight.
  19. I've only ever seen that , well, never. The threads are massive and would require so much force to strip them, something else is bound to break before that happens.
  20. If it's a 320 based Bluebird, I am pretty sure they are the same. Wayno would know.
  21. An L18 crank, 87mm bore and L16 rods makes a great engine combo, and easy to build too. One of the 1900s I built years ago is still in my area and still going strong. Way more power than an L16 or even L18, but totally easy to own and maintain.
  22. None of the machine shops I have ever used for L motors have stamped anything on the block or crank. The L18 is different in almost every way from an L16, but most exterior pieces will interchange including the front cover and everything inside it, the cylinder head, manifolds, etc. I would have a look at the rod and main bearings (if accessible) to see if the crank has been ground and yes, measure the bores too. I'd rather have stock crank journals and stock bore, but if there are no scratches or cracks (or rust), and they aren't ground/bored to their max, who cares? Look for cracks around the middle cylinder head bolts. These are notorious crack spots, and may be hard to detect without a little sandpaper. Ideally it would not be cracked, but even those can be fixed.
  23. The tight fit means that when they rust over time, you need one helluva lot of pressure to get them moving again. I use a hammer and vise for u-joints, but when they become difficult, I resort to the press. Heat can also help and penetrating oil too. I heat then squirt with penetrating oil. Be careful of the fumes though. I've had them in the press with tons of pressure on them and heated up and not budging, so what to do then? Walk away and let the heat/penetrating oil/cooling do it's magic. Obviously you need to support the shaft somehow so it isn't dangling, but with the shaft supported, you can leave it there and you might just hear a loud pop later in the day. I wouldn't be concerned with hurting the caps by hitting them with a hammer. Presumably you're going to replace them, so smack away. I have never had them swell by hitting them too hard. Crack? yes, but not swell. I do, however, worry about damaging the yoke ears. They need proper support or you could booger them up or even bend them. Instead of a socket to support the bottom of the yoke, use a thick piece of steel pipe. You can even grind it slightly so it fits the forged contour and won't slip. There's no on-tool-fits-all for this job. Sometimes you need to throw everything you've got at it.
  24. It's not worth the effort. Custom pistons are not as expensive as everyone thinks. Try JE, Wiseco, Cosworth or even Arias for custom pistons. They all have Datsun L motor piston designs.
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