d.p Posted June 18, 2019 Report Share Posted June 18, 2019 I don’t want to side track greaser2s thread so I’ll post in my thread we continue there? 1 Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted June 19, 2019 Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 4 hours ago, d.p said: I’d buy that head if had any clue what an optimal street setup would be? Meaning could I drop this on my l16 block? Its a 219 head that was just labeled backwards for the Nissan competition catalog. Some dish pistons and NIsmo head will fix you right up. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted June 19, 2019 Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 I built an LZ23, Z22 block bored out to 89mm, stock Z24 pistons, basically 219 head(made my own race head out of W53 closed chamber head) with stock L20b cam, I was told it worked out to 8.9 to 1 compression ratio, I burn regular pump gas so I re-curved my matchbox distributor to stop the knocking, very strong engine, even in my work truck which weighs 3900lbs it will walk away from a Z24/Weber in a 521. Best upgrade I have ever made was going from a L16 to an L20b. 1 Quote Link to comment
Greaser2 Posted June 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2019 Got the rear end pulled out this morning. New bearing, seals, and rubbers to add. 2 Quote Link to comment
Greaser2 Posted June 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2019 So, getting everything broken down, having problems with brake line fittings. Seems I can get the fittings broken loose but the fittings are rusted solid to the brake lines so I can twist them till the lines brake. 3/16 brake lines? Should I just go ahead and upgrade to something else? 1 Quote Link to comment
BrothersGarage Posted July 1, 2019 Report Share Posted July 1, 2019 If the lines are being pieces of shit an breaking on you then it may be time to replace / upgrade them. I can't tell you how many times I've gone to fix a single thing on my green truck already, and that single problem turns into "guess I'm re-building X". 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted July 1, 2019 Report Share Posted July 1, 2019 Either replace them or just cut them at the end and put a new end on if you have enough line. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted July 1, 2019 Report Share Posted July 1, 2019 try PB Blaster and let soak for a few days 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted July 1, 2019 Report Share Posted July 1, 2019 I use heat from a mapp torch to heat the threads. If there is corrosion around the fitting making it hard to turn the fitting on the metal line, try squirting it down and working it back and forth until it spins freely. Caution - this fusing of the fitting to the metal line could be bad enough to cause the metal line to fail, so it's your judgement call to use it or replace it. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted July 1, 2019 Report Share Posted July 1, 2019 I run new nickel-copper lines whenever I can. They’ll never rot out, are easy to bend and flare, and seal up almost every time. 2 Quote Link to comment
Greaser2 Posted July 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2019 This looks to be an original spare. Bridgestone made in Japan. Any reason to keep. I wouldn’t want to actually ride down the road on it. 1 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 3, 2019 Report Share Posted July 3, 2019 What and pass up a chance to breath Japanese air from 1970???? 1 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted July 3, 2019 Report Share Posted July 3, 2019 No reason whatsoever, throw that in the trash. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted July 3, 2019 Report Share Posted July 3, 2019 don't you need a spare? I got one that looks like that also. If you find 2 more you can get redone and make a full set and find some stock hub caps as these have the nubs to hold them. 1 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted July 3, 2019 Report Share Posted July 3, 2019 That thing is probably so dry rotted. I wouldn’t drive on it. 1 Quote Link to comment
Greaser2 Posted July 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2019 Anyone know where I can get new axel shims. Several are split, I probably can reuse but... 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted July 4, 2019 Report Share Posted July 4, 2019 They come split, that is how they are made. 2 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted July 4, 2019 Report Share Posted July 4, 2019 I made my own out of brass shim stock. I made a punch that cuts the bolt holes. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted July 4, 2019 Report Share Posted July 4, 2019 Try your local Nissan Dealer. I believe the 720 H190 rear differential takes the same shims. Nissan Parts Deal 720 Rear Axle Quote Link to comment
Greaser2 Posted July 5, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2019 On 7/1/2019 at 9:41 AM, banzai510(hainz) said: try PB Blaster and let soak for a few days I used WD 40 since I got multiple can but did this for several days. Cautiously twisted back and forth over several days till it finally loosened up. Patience is the key. 1 Quote Link to comment
Greaser2 Posted July 6, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2019 Waiting on a wheel hub seal to finish installing rear end back on so lowered my seat instead. Not sure what this bench came out of but with its brackets it was about 2 inches higher than stock. Removed the brackets and made new ones to get it lower and back. At 6 foot and 250 need every inch I can get. 7 Quote Link to comment
4perrev Posted July 6, 2019 Report Share Posted July 6, 2019 Very nice truck you got there. Good work and I like the wheels! Welcome to the house!!! 2 Quote Link to comment
Greaser2 Posted July 14, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2019 Got the rear end installed this morning. Test drive later today. 3 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted July 14, 2019 Report Share Posted July 14, 2019 What size blocks you got on there? 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted July 14, 2019 Report Share Posted July 14, 2019 My guess would be around 3 1/2" blocks plus a shim, close to 4", this may be an issue with 14" rims, either the shock mounts or ends of the U-bolts will drag on the ground if he gets a flat, in the end the shock mounts will drag if the u-bolts are trimmed. Some folks don't care if stuff drags, I have seen photos of the lower shock mount/shock stud almost completely ground off from dragging on the ground. 1 Quote Link to comment
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