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wayno

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Everything posted by wayno

  1. Hello Roger, it has been a while, maybe close to 10 years. I look at this and cringe, I believe it has a J13, the fact is if you drive this truck across this country, if you make it you will be floored most the time except when going down hill then you will be riding the brakes as the engine compression is not going to slow it down, drum brakes do not last long when going down a pass, I suspect 50/55mph is going to be top speed on level ground with a tail wind. I am one of the few on here that knows what it takes to move weight on a daily basis with a Datsun and what the issues are moving it, I do not know about the J13 but I know about the L20b, I drove to central Florida and back to Vancouver WA with 5 hang gliders on top of the canopy and everything needed to exist camping for 1.5 months out doors, I had basically a race head built for the trip, the back of the truck was squatting, by the time I got home I had went thru a dogleg 5 speed transmission and I had run out of valve adjustment on a few valves, it turned out that the head was built without hardened seats, this happened because I was floored for hours and hours keeping up freeway speeds and my truck likely weighed less than this 520 as it was not a work truck back then. I would not attempt to drive this truck across the country unless you have a lot of time as my guess it is not going to make it without repairs, yes it has 4.8 gears in the rear as that is what it takes to get these early trucks moving, but 65hp is only going to move it so fast with all that front surface area trying to move thru the air, did I mention you will likely be floored most the time? An engine upgrade, well the L20b will likely not be enough, I do not believe I would be happy even with an LZ23, a VG30 will likely be too tight as it is tough getting that into a 620(ask Yello620), you see the 520 has around 3" or 4" less room front to back in the engine compartment than the 521, not sure about other engines but they will likely all be tight, I do not know if the LD20T would be good for this. If you want this have it shipped like you did the 521, sorry about being negative but that is a lot of truck for a J13, ask DanielC as I recall he used to haul a horse trailer around with a 520 with drum brakes, it takes a certain type for this kind of Datsun.
  2. I think your biggest issue would be sourcing Short shaft 5 speed transmission and an L block front case and plate, if I can make a plate with a J15 series plate and an L block plate then a lot of people can if they make the effort, here is a thread about this subject, both Andrew(banannahamock) and JJ(Von) are running around right now with 5 speed transmissions in their J13 powered 411s with plates I made. https://ratsun.net/topic/75435-a-5-speed-adapter-plate-i-made-for-a-j-series-engine/ I tried using the Z block transmission/plate but I could not make it work as you will read in the thread if you read it, I also had exhaust clearance issues on the J block exhaust manifolds, I did this just to see if I could do it.
  3. 6-170mm sounds about right for the Nissan dually wheel pattern, but I have never heard of it in 15" rims, I have 14" rims and I like it as I can keep my flatbed decks low, my deck is 30" off the ground so i don't have to lift shovel loads of debris very high. You might want to check the lug pattern and size of the Toyota dually trucks, they had heavy duty trucks with dually rims on the front so maybe they had 15" rims, otherwise I would find/buy 14" radial tires, I have used them for 20 years without tire issues and I have loaded my trucks up way past the dually axle capacity. The 1985/1986 Nissan 4wd trucks had the C200 rear axle in them(single rim/wheel), them carriers will work in the C200 dually axle as i have done it.
  4. You need to pull the complete wiper assembly out and find what is loose, I had one that got loose at the pivot/pivot arm where it is not supposed to be loose(pressed in assembly), so I welded it solid and have never had an issue since, I suspect it became loose because the arm was hard to move, but when I removed it I fixed that issue also, it is in a place where once installed it cannot be seen by anyone. The suspension may share parts with the early Datsun Roadster(thru 1970), if you have trouble finding parts you may want to look at them parts. If that is a positive ground car it is a rare one indeed, if you change to negative ground or keep it positive ground, MG Midget distributors will work in your J13 engine, and they came both positive and negative ground.
  5. wayno

    waynos 521 work truck

    It does not want to die now when I let out the clutch, that appears to be the timing that fixed it, before it was at 5 degrees BTDC, now it is at 10 degrees BTDC, then I changed the cam timing to where the groove is just on the right side of the notch and that changed nothing, it is not knocking so I may advance it even more if I get brave, it still turns over like crazy but I can keep it moving at 60mph in 5th gear on level ground without flooring it so it will work for now, I will likely clean up the old block and put the head back on it as i think that engine has more power, that engine will likely go back into the work truck and if everything goes well this engine may go in the 520 if I start driving it more, I put insurance on it recently so I will likely start driving it.
  6. wayno

    waynos 521 work truck

    Geez guys, both them engines had the pistons about 1mm below the top of the deck, they both looked exactly the same without the head on them, this is the first LZ23 engine made with the Z22E block, the pistons do not look milled to me, the little dot is still there and if they had taken 3mm off them pistons that dot would not be there anymore. If you read this thread Mike you would remember me talking about knocking/pinging constantly after I timed the cam properly but not before that, before that it did not knock/ping, that is likely why the head had to be repaired, but this block did not have the pistons milled as I would have mentioned that way back then, that would have been something I remembered and been charged for, I certainly would have talked about it.
  7. wayno

    waynos 521 work truck

    OK, one block was a Z22E block, when it was bought it had the fuel injection intake manifold on it which I sold, the other block was a Z22S block, it had that intake manifold on it also, I do not recall what pistons the Z22E block had but I had both bored out to 89mm to except the stock Z24 pistons, the machine shop did not tell me there were any hiccups so I assumed both the blocks excepted these stock Z24 pistons so to me that means both blocks/cranks/rods were the same meaning the pistons had the same pin height. The heads are both modified, both are W53 castings(closed chamber), the old engine(Z22E block) has the head with the 280Z valves(42mm intakes???), both heads had the intake runners ported to match the dual SU intake manifold(1.5"), the exhaust ports were not touched on either head, the W53 head on the Z22S block which is in the truck right now was fitted with 44mm intake valves, I just looked at both casting numbers on the heads and it appears the space between the bottom of the letters/numbers(W53) and the face of the head is about the same, this does not mean they are the same but they appear to be about the same to me. Both engines used the same intake/exhaust, the only difference in break in was the oil, the Z22E block had 20/50 used to break it in, this Z22S block had 10/30 oil used to break it in, and the Z22S block I spun the engine over(without spark plugs) to soak everything with oil before starting it as this engine sat in my back room in my house assembled for 6 years??, I also squirted oil in each cylinder before I turned it over and covered the cam with assembly lube as the old stuff had dried out, the Z22E block had just been assembled so I just started that one without these extra things I did as it had not sat for years, both had the oil pump filled with oil(primed) before installing. I thought about how this Z22S block had sat all them years inside my house(climate controlled) and wondered if this could be the reason one is a better engine than the other. As for the valve clearances, as I already mentioned this new engine was set 12 thousands at the lash pad, the old engine was set by feel which I can tell you right now was way looser, it was likely 15 thousands or greater at the lobe, this made that engine a little noisier, but I had had them get tight before so I kept them loose. The RV cam happened a long time ago on an L20b block, that engine had no torque with that cam, I regretted having that head done afterwards, it was a waste of money, my thinking was defective, I thought if the valves stayed open longer or had a higher lift it could breath better on the freeway with stock valves and hardened seats, was I wrong about that, it had no torque and it was worse than my old wore out engine on the freeway(4 quarts of oil per tank of gas), 5th gear was not used as it would not maintain freeway speeds in that gear except down hill, that is when I built my first LZ23 to replace that engine, that engine went into my 520, since then I found a 219 head and that is on that engine now, the W53 head with the RV cam is on that Z20E block I have(flat top pistons) that likely has a 10.8 to 1 compression ratio, I have had that engine running on a stand, but it has never been in a vehicle, it would likely need race fuel to run properly, I should sell that engine. And let me repeat, my work truck now weighs 3900 pounds empty with me in it (which it is never empty), I am pretty sure with all my equipment in it the trailer weighs over 2000 pounds(has electric brakes), I ask a lot of these engines, they get a workout every time I drive them, I used to have a ton or more in the flatbed all the time(wet moss weighs a lot), this is why I had 1990 Nissan hardbody V6 dual piston vented rotor disc brakes on this truck, I do not pressure wash tile roofs anymore so I don't have wet moss in my truck anymore, back then I was rolling around over 8000 pounds all the time and it took that LZ23 to move the truck/trailer/wet moss and good brakes to stop it, this is why I am always talking about torque as I notice when I have less power.
  8. wayno

    waynos 521 work truck

    I forgot to mention, when I pulled the plugs yesterday to do the compression check and looked at them I was slightly puzzled, #1 was black except around the tip where it was tan, #2 and #3 were just black, and #4 was like #1, black except around the tip(to the curve) where it was tan, I have dual SUs, #1 and #2 are on the front carb and #3 and #4 are on the back carb, how can #2 and #3 be completely black, I can see the front two cylinders being tan and the back 2 being black(rich), but the two middle cylinders puzzles me.
  9. wayno

    waynos 521 work truck

    I drove it to a job this morning and it was better with the timing at 10 degrees BTDC, but I messed with the cam timing after I got home, I cannot get it the way it is in Mikes photo, so I removed the gear and took it off the chain and moved the chain to the side, I put the gear on it in all 3 positions and it just got uglier so #1 dowel hole was the best with the groove slightly left of the center of the notch, so then I put the gear on the chain one link over, turned the cam till the gear settled, then I removed the chain from the gear and tried it in all 3 positions and #3 dowel hole appeared to be the best which had the groove mostly right of the notch, there is no happy place, BUT this was without the chain on the gear, things will and do move around a little to get the cam gear to drop onto the dowel hole, but the groove did not move an 1/8" to the left, I did not take a photo but it basically looked like this photo below, but I had not even moved the engine. I drove this truck for years with that groove another groove width to the right, it was not even close to that notch and I had no issues after putting a head stud kit in it for a very long time. I test drove it and I could not tell any difference from the drive this morning after I had been re-timed yesterday, it did not knock/ping on either drive and the torque is a lot better, that complete dead spot where I thought it was going to die after letting out the clutch appears to be gone, maybe it was timing, but the day before yesterday when I let out the clutch at a signal it just kept bogging down to the point the truck was going to quit moving and die if I did not press in the clutch to get the engine revving again, it seemed like anything below 2000rpms was worthless. I am getting tired of messing with this engine, the only thing different between the two engines is one was a Z22E block and the other was a Z22S block, and this head has larger intake valves by a couple mm, oh and this one I am setting the valve lash at the lash pad, while the other engine was initially set at the cam lobe, but from then on(years) I just felt them to make sure they were not tight, they were not even close to 12 thousands as that seemed tight to me and that engine ran better, but this one is a lot quieter. I will drive it this way for a while and decide if I am going to put the other engine back into this work truck, the head has been repaired and I see no reason to not put it back together, it is a great engine.
  10. wayno

    waynos 521 work truck

    I do not recall having any rush of power in this truck unless I disconnected from the trailer, then it is like a different truck, I hardly use any pedal at all when I do not have the trailer, this is about torque and being able to go down the freeway at 60mph basically on close to level ground without without having to drop a gear or completely floor it. The way it is looking if things do not improve I am likely going to put the repaired head on my old block and put it back in the truck, if this is all about a few degrees on cam timing I do not see this working out, my old engine had more power timed at 0 degrees running regular pump gas with the cam a complete tooth off with the groove way to the right of the notch.
  11. wayno

    waynos 521 work truck

    Both these engines were basically the same, both have L20b cams, I tried the RV cam on my L20b and was very unhappy from the start, it had no torque, when one has 6000+ pounds to move I need torque, so I built my first LZ23 and the cam was timed wrong, I drove it that way for around 5/6 years and never had an issue after putting in a head stud kit, then I found out the cam was timed wrong and I fixed it, it had a little more power but it became the knock/ping monster, I expect that is when the head damage started, I had it timed at 0 degrees until I re-curved the distributor, then I think I had it around 6 degrees BTDC, but it would start knocking again, the engine started bucking when I got off the freeway and was stopped at a light(engine temps were up higher than normal but it idled fine), the bucking would go away once I got moving and stayed moving, I thought it was my SU bowls boiling from the heat, I now suspect that was when that fire ring was disintegrating and the bucking was actually knocking/pinging in overdrive because of the fire ring having sharp edges, this truck was so much better with the cam timed wrong.
  12. wayno

    waynos 521 work truck

    Like I said before, I tried it in 6 different positions and that photo had the groove mostly in the notch, all the rest of the positions had it left or right farther out of the notch but the cam might not have been in the proper place as I cannot count links. I will play with it tomorrow, I never had so many issues in the past, I just set it at 10am/2pm and put the gear on the cam and it ran fine even though the cam was timed wrong, only when I fixed it did these issues I have had appear, although the wipe pattern on the cam was wrong, that has nothing to do with cam timing and knocking/pinging, it was just set up wrong by the machinist.
  13. wayno

    waynos 521 work truck

    I can mess with it again tomorrow, I had it here, is this good enough or is this going to make it knock?
  14. wayno

    waynos 521 work truck

    As I remember when I built both my LZ23 engines I used new timing chain kits(gears/chain/tensioner/guides), this is not a used chain. It is not a gear reduction starter, it is a used starter I picked up at the Brooks meet(Canby replacement) 2 years ago, it was on the other engine for a while and that engine turned over a lot slower than this one does, I do not know how fast it turns over now since doing the timing as it starts right up the moment I hit the starter when it is warmed up. As I said I cannot get the groove/notch to look like the photo you posted, I tried it in 6 different positions and number 1 dowel hole was the closest I could get it.
  15. wayno

    waynos 521 work truck

    I did use a different distributor as the one that was in it was wasted, so I used a 1980 Z block distributor(4 plug type) and I made my own plate to get it in the right spot, it starts great, but this LZ23 engine does not have the power my old LZ23 engine has after 8 years of beating the shit out of it. I have dual SUs on this engine, I have had SUs on it for over 20 years. It really does not matter about the oil pump as I made a plate for the distributor to Orient it to fit in the room I had as the vacuum advance was on the other side and my power steering hoses were in the way, today I timed it at 10 degrees BTDC at an idle but I have not drove it yet, it was timed at 5 or 6 degrees BTDC at an idle. I was watching the fuel filter bubbling away, it has an electric fuel pump now.
  16. wayno

    waynos 521 work truck

    OK, this is the closest I can get the groove to the notch on number 1 dowel hole. Number 2 and 3 dowel holes have it far to the right barely touching the groove, this was the closest I could get it to Mikes photo he posted, I ran the other engine for years with the groove way right of the notch, I only started having issues after I timed the cam properly. I did a compression check, 1 thru 4 as follows, 165, 175, 160, 160, I did not like the results as my other engine with a blown head gasket and head damage had higher numbers, so I checked my head bolts and the ones between 1 and 2 cylinders were really loose, same with the ones between 3 and 4, they were kinda loose, the rest were a lot better(middle and both ends), I torqued these last around 2013 when I put it together, anyway I do not know if these numbers above are good or bad or somewhere in between, before I started this engine after sitting all them years in my spare room in the house I squirted oil in all the cylinders and it sat for a while then I turned it over without spark plugs in the holes until I had oil pressure on the gauge and the top end was soaked when I looked thru the valve cover filler hole. I also checked my valve clearances, they were all where I set the gap a few weeks ago. This stuff kinda annoys me, it is the same engine/block, same pistons, and it is also almost the same head(larger intake valves), I just do not understand how that wasted head that had coolant get into the cylinders could have higher compression numbers.
  17. wayno

    waynos 521 work truck

    I expect I should have mentioned another thing, this engine using the same starter turns over way faster now, I do not expect I noticed it before as it started so easy/fast before, the moment I turned the key it would at least try if not start, now it turns over a little longer and then starts, but it turns over really fast, no L block I have ever owned turned over this fast. I am using the same starter as before, it was used for the other engine also, this was a Z22S block, it has Z24 pistons and Z22S rods as I recall, the head is slightly different, the intake valves are larger on this one than the damaged head, I am using the same intake, the only difference other than that is I am burning non ethanol premium gas right now, fact is I did not notice the power loss before I switched over to the premium, oh and It is not knocking now, when I was burning the regular pump gas it was knocking/pinging. The torque reminds me of that RV cam I used on that engine other head I built after my last L20b before I built my first LZ23, no torque and no HP at freeway speeds, I am having to drop into 4 gear on the freeway sometimes again just to keep it at 60mph, I thought I was past this, I have 4.6 gears in the rearend. I have an estimate to do, I will advance it a couple degrees before I leave, but the torque issue is a major issue for me, sometimes when I let out the clutch I think it is going to die/quit moving instead of accellerating, I have to push it the clutch and get it revving again and ride the clutch to get it moving at a much higher RPM.
  18. wayno

    waynos 521 work truck

    I have a question about Z22 blocks, I have made/built 2 different LZ23 engines(I built them several years ago), the first one I made out of a Z22E block, that one was in my truck likely 8+ years and recently had the head issue, the second one in the truck now was made with a Z22S block, are these blocks different? I ask because this one in the truck now does not have the torque or power the old block has, it feels more like an L20b than an LZ23, it is gutless starting out on any kind of incline, I have to ride the clutch to get it moving. I have been advancing the timing a little bit, I do not remember what it is at now but I can go another couple degrees again as I have not heard any knocking/pinging.
  19. I do not believe you can use a 4wd column as the rag joint is on the steering gear and it will hit the upper control arm on a 2wd truck(I dare you to ask me how I know), you need the 2wd power steering column with the rag joint near the firewall and the knuckle on the power steering gear.
  20. I have a few dually axles, one is a parts axle now or an axle I could try to fit a set of 4.1 gears into, but I am not motivated to do such a thing as my work truck needs the 4.6 gears although I can use 4.3 gears if I want to smell clutch every once in a while, that truck weighs 3900 pounds now, but it weighed 3400 pounds before I made it a dump truck. I paid over $800.00 for my adapters I had made by an old school machinist(no computer) as the other places I tried looked at me like I was crazy, they needed a computer program to make such a thing, I suspect they could not find their way home if they had to use a map, the same machinist made me a custom center link at the same time so I could make a power steering assembly for my dually 521 work truck over 11 years ago. Did you get the lug nuts with the adapters also, or did you have to buy them separately?
  21. I believe that all 520/521/620/720 truck frame leaf spring widths are the same width wise, the axle itself is wider as the years have passed but the perches are the same width apart. The dually axle is a C200, the C200 only came with a limited number of gear ratios, I myself have only seen the 4.3 and 4.6 gear ratios, I heard there was a 4.8 gear ratio, that said I believe that you can put the 4.1 gear ratio in the dually axle as the later 4wd 720s also came with a C200 axle and they also had the 4.1 gear ratio, now I broke a shaft and ovaled the hole for the shaft in the carrier of my 4.3 in my dually and I found a 4wd with a C200 and I pulled the carrier and put it in my dually axle and it worked, so I believe the 4.1 will fit in the dually axle if you can find a good ring/pinion set, Nissan also told me there was a 4.1 ratio for the axle when I bought a set of dually axle drums from them(last ones in the USA), they also had dually axle lug nuts but they were expensive. I have no plans on putting a dually rim on the front of my 720, I do not drive it anymore so I do not see the point, mine has a diesel engine anyway and need 3.5 or 3.3 gear ratios and that is why I had my adapters made, what did you pay for them adapters bluexl?
  22. I always looked for MG Midget distributors as I knew they fit as I had an MG Midget engine in my garage and when I went to part it out as no one wanted to buy it when I pulled the distributor I looked at it for a long time, I really could not believe what I was seeing, it looked exactly like my Datsun 320 distributor, I had just made up a matchbox distributor for my 320 but it would only work negative ground and my truck was positive ground, this distributor was set up with a Crane electronic ignition wired negative ground so I pulled the distributor out of the 320 right there, wired it for negative ground(bypassed all 320 wiring), got in and it started better than it had the entire time I have owned the truck, later I read some literature about the Crane ignition system and read it could be wired positive ground and the rest is history. I believe that I learned about what they would fit on ebay, the sellers would say what that distributor would fit, I took their word for it as I know very little about MGs, I was focused on positive ground as I knew the matchbox could be fitted with the early distributor drives/key from the 320 E1/J13 distributors, but it was way easier to use the Datsun 320/MG distributor clamp as the J13 clamp needs to be modified to work on the matchbox distributor, the MG clamp works the best. If you were able to find a 1978 thru 1980 Matchbox distributor you can make that fit with a MG Midget clamp and the key drive on your old J13 distributor, it is easy to do, but the MG Midget distributor will work also with the MG clamp.
  23. wayno

    waynos 521 work truck

    OK, I put this head back together and looked at the wipe pattern now and how it was, they are the same which is terrible if it is supposed to be in the middle, but it has been terrible for the last 9 years, it is opposite of the way it was in the engine in the truck now before I found better lash pads, now it is more or less in the middle, I got lucky, after thinking about it now I am surprised the cam did not get ruined, maybe it did and I just don't know it yet. Anyway this head has the lobe basically pushing on the rocker arm at the edge of the pad at the post end, when I think about angles this way basically pushes the valve farther down/opens it farther, it has been this way a very long time/since I built the engine, when I thought about it I would need taller lash pads to make me turn the posts the rockers sit on down to move the wipe pattern closer to the valve end. Here is the issue I have, I have never had an issue with the wipe pattern this head has, all my issues have been head gaskets blowing in the last couple years and detonation/knocking/pinging which likely caused the damage to the head that required welding now and a new head gasket a year or so ago. Now I have more than one set of lash pads, but what is weird is the taller lash pads I have sit deeper into valve spring retaining cap, so it changes nothing, this is not my area of expertise, should I leave it alone since it has worked fine for 9 years or should I guess how much thicker a lash pad needed should be and order a set from somewhere or someone on here? You can see it has a sliver of dark area on the left so the lobe is not travelling off the pad when the valve comes to rest again as the cam is rotating clockwise. Does anyone have an idea how many thousands thinker the lash pad would need to be to move the wipe pattern over a 1/16" to 3/32" of an inch? Stoffregen Motorsports mentioned checking the wipe pattern, I only did one rocker/lobe as the head is on the bench with a 2X4 on each end to hold it up away from the bench surface, the one I checked appears to be the same as before, it is not running off the pad but it is close.
  24. wayno

    waynos 521 work truck

    I do not know what they did exactly, the piece of paper(receipt) says "V/Grind", "Surface", and "Weld", another thing to keep in mind is that all the things the guy mentioned when I left the head there had already been done, hardened seats were one of them, so they did not have to do all the stuff necessary to cope with the fuel they sell today, here is the receipt with their info on it in case anyone wants to talk to them. Fact is I have an extra W53 head(open chamber) that I have no need for right now and nobody would pay me what the head was worth if I had it rebuilt, I would never use the head as it is on an engine either, it has 42mm intakes and all my heads have 44mm intakes or larger, it also needs to be port matched to the dual SU intake manifold, I already have a W53 head done mounted on a Z20 block with flat top pistons that I used in my work truck very briefly on a L20b block which is in my 1966 Datsun 520 ute now that has a 219 head on it at this time, with the RV cam that W53 head had and the smaller intake valves on that L20b block it did not have the grunt/torque to move this work truck at any RPM, I was always floored and I am spoiled now since using an LZ23 for all these years, fact is if I were to build another engine for this truck it would likely be a KA or a VG30 as I already have one of them but I see no need to do that as I am semi retired now and I put 1/3rd the miles on this truck that I used to, this engine in it now will likely outlast me. I believe I mentioned before that I put a straight edge on the tops of the 4 valves in the middle 2 cylinders of this engine head in the truck now after the rockers and lash pads were removed, it appears that this in this head all the valves are the same height, the head I just had fixed the exhaust valves are slightly taller and I kept the rockers and lash pads together in order so they would go back in the same places, I will put the head together in a little while so things do not get mixed up.
  25. wayno

    waynos 521 work truck

    Seems like JB weld would just come out, I thought about how the engine ran fine until coolant started escaping the coolant jacket, there was a huge trench in one of them cylinders for who knows how long and I could not tell, so I though maybe use a drill to take off the sharp edges making a small smooth dimple, but then I thought about that I cannot really see how deep it is, so I went and got a pin and it appears to only be maybe a 1/16" deep, the guys at the machine shop did not seem to be worried about it other than it not be under the fire ring, I do think that that hole has sharp edges, do you think JB Weld would stay in there? I do not want this cylinder to have detonation issues, I did not even see that tiny hole till it was pointed out to me, I did not see the head was damaged until it was pointed out to me either.
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