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wayno

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Everything posted by wayno

  1. The last pan I had to change out was a SD25 diesel engine pan that had a oil temp sensor welded into the pan, it was weeping around the edges of the weld. The one before was a 1980 L20b oil pan that I had bought that the wrecking yard had punched a hole in to empty the oil instead of removing the drain plug, they do it that way now, I pound the punched hole as flat as I can and weld the rest of the hole shut with a mig welder, I am not the greatest welder and was weeping in the middle of the weld, I believe I took that pan off and re-welded it, but don't recall for sure how I fixed it. Your pan was not likely welded on so that is strange, I will say this, I seriously doubt you can weld on it and fix it in position, it will likely need to be removed, thoroughly cleaned, repaired, and then installed again as you likely do not have an extra oil pan. I have a few extras for a Datsun 521 with an L block, but they are used and I don't recall specifics about any of them except the one front sump modified one I pulled out of a 521, and it has a shitload of welding done to it, PM me if your interested in one and I will take a look at what I have.
  2. wayno

    Powerland 2020!

    Unless you have heard the story you likely do not know what he is talking about Jbirds510, count yourself lucky and do we really need to bring that shit up Mrbigtanker, it's in the past, lets not dredge up bad memories even if some think it is funny which I am not one of them. If you want to know what it's about ask some old timer next Powerlnd or at Blue Lake if you attend Jbirds510, lets keep this thread drama free.
  3. Is this event at the lodge, day use area??
  4. I am talking about the box on the back of the truck, it has a cab and a cargo box, they didn't get shipped to the USA with a box, that was made?? and put on here in the USA.
  5. They didn't come with mirrors or the box, that stuff was installed here in the USA, it had to do with tax breaks. A lot of the parts you are looking for I have seen on ebay, finding some of them in good condition will take time, if you buy parts do you have a US address or would they need to be shipped to Ecuador?
  6. Welcome As you live in Ecuador parts might become an issue, save what you have, we here in the USA didn't get the truck you have there in your country, the mirrors were put on by the dealer so there are a lot of different types, we didn't get them side marker lights, we didn't get them front marker/turn signal or rear tail lights either. You need to search Ebay everyday, a lot of the smaller parts show up there and they ship worldwide, the rust issues you have will need to be taken care of where you live, cut out the bad areas and replace them with good metal, good luck with your project.
  7. You have to keep in mind that 90 percent if not more of the members on here have never replaced or tried to replace any welded in body panel in any vehicle, and the ones that have likely replaced them in an early Roadster not a 520/521. I expect you would sell more rockers and rear skirt extensions for the box in the short term than you will rocker replacements for the cab. What you have made would work fine for them except for the ends which need a 90 degree fold on the ends(one angled one straight 90 degrees), they don't need to be enclosed, but they do need a brace on the inside when installed, and for you to do that you would also need to make them the proper length, keep in mind that I do not know if the boxes are all the same thru all the years, they look the same but that doesn't mean they are the same, even a half inch difference can mess things up on pre-made stuff.
  8. I do not believe the front and rear crank seals are made for synthetic oils, I sure would be upset if my clutch cover/disc got soaked with that stuff.
  9. I also had that as an obstacle to loading up Ratsun, I have all sorts of stuff to deal with now since I now have Windows7, I also use Google, maybe only folks with Google see that crap, I also see a black bar on the bottom of the Ratsun page when I am not logged in about how the site needs to install cookies for a better experience when it works just fine without me allowing the cookies, it's all about................................................
  10. The short shafts came in 2wd 1985/86 Nissan regular cab/short box trucks with a speedo drive in them, the later 4wd trucks(84?) also had them but they had no speedo drive, but one must look at all of the 4wd trucks as the transmissions are the same except for the speedo drive. Yes someone could have put a short shaft in a 1980 Datsun 720, but they would have had to change out the drive line also.
  11. I played with this photo a long time ago, before I made my 520 ute as I wanted to see what it looked like. This is what I did before the photo above. I have said the same thing for a decade, they should have come like the second photo in my opinion.
  12. When I have a chronic oil pan leak issue I generally just use another oil pan.
  13. The 1980 Datsun 720 has a long shaft, the short shaft didn't appear till maybe late 1984??? Short shafts and long shafts have the same transmission mount location, the short shaft ends about 4 inches past the transmission mount, the long shaft ends closer to 9" past the transmission mount.
  14. At the back near the windshield they are the same width, but that is about all there is that is the same, they narrow differently going forward and the 520 is slightly shorter, it will be difficult to make a longer 520 hood, same with the fenders, difficult to lengthen them and have them look proper, that is why I mentioned the engine compartment and how I would never do another 520, too hard to get a decent engine in one. You are attempting a very big conversion, my 520 box conversion was way easier than what you have in mind, and that took months for me to do and I was working with straight lines/curves for the most part, narrowing and widening angled parts is a headache, you have to do most of it from scratch, the 521 is easier to work with. The 521 hood only narrows 2" from back to front, much easier to deal with than the 7" the 520 hood narrows from back to the front. I would do a 521 double cab not a 520 double cab. I just realized what thread this was, but I am going to leave what I wrote above, why did you ask me about the 520 hood in this thread?
  15. Where in Washington do you live Jacob?
  16. It says the Heritage Park opens at 9am, but this is something separate from that part of the Park.
  17. If your temp gauge reads in the middle driving around town then I would call that good as long as the radiator is to the top with coolant, mine is in the middle also. I would get a pyro gauge before another water temp gauge, water temps rise slowly while exhaust gas temps rise very fast, I put one in my 521 diesel before turbocharging it and I was very surprised how fast it rose to 1400 degrees, floored up a slight incline it only took a little over a minute. Before turbocharging my 521 kingcab diesel truck I got 27/28mpg freeway and at least 25mpg in the city, since turbocharging it I got almost 31mpg on the freeway going 75mph, but I drive fast, my average rpm is 2800 to 3000rpms in 5th gear, I do not rev my engine over 2500rpms in 1st thru 4th gears, only in 5th do I rev it higher, I think if I could drive 55/60mph I might get near 40mpg but I cannot drive that slow on the freeway, I think if you got over 35mpg you are doing good. I only know of 2 guys that did 40mpg or better, one was a truck driver that drove 55mph everywhere, the others engine was turbocharged and he had propane injection, he drove 50/55mph everywhere, he also had this choke cable connected to the arm on the injection pump that he would pull on to make the engine run leaner, no one but him could drive that vehicle the way he had it setup, they would have blown the engine up in no time, when I test drove it before buying it it ran very hot(EGTs), when I parked it in my driveway he said I drove it wrong, well he didn't have it set up properly as I can drive it just fine now without it running hot, fact is almost anyone can drive it now without me worrying that it will come back behind a tow truck, the guy I bought it from didn't have it piped right for a turbocharger. I found I was going thru a shitload of oil, I also thought it was a tired engine, I got tired of it leaking oil everywhere and over a weekend I fixed all but one of the leaks, it doesn't use oil anymore, the leak I cannot get to is where the oil dipstick enters the block, I cannot get the dipstick tube housing off the block, the bolt holding it on is behind the injection pump and I don't want to remove it to fix that leak as it is not that bad of a leak. The SD22 engine is only 61hp, it doesn't have a lot of power, I drove one with an SD22 for a few years, I was not happy with it, I found a couple SD25 engines and now all my drivers have the SD25 engine, I still was not happy so I turbocharged my 521 and I figured out the issue with the one I bought already turbocharged, I would never daily drive a SD22 or SD25 diesel powered vehicle without a turbocharger again. We turbocharged my friends SD22 powered 720 last weekend, I was not impressed, it drove nothing like my trucks with SD25 engines, after driving home he messaged me saying it had more power but I have not talked with him since as he works on a dredge and is gone for 2 weeks at a time, he says he is going to order more parts and have them ready to install when he gets back home(parts to make it nicer under the hood), I drove his truck before he drove home, I was not impressed but it seemed to have more power to me, but no where near the power gain I had, but I had more power to start with being my engines are both SD25 diesels which have 71hp. This is the tach I like in the link below, but you have to glue 2 magnets to the harmonic balancer and mount the sensor, it's kinda a pain but I have not had any issues with this tach in the 8 years I have had it. https://www.ebay.com/itm/ISSPRO-Classic-0-4000-RPM-Tachometer-Gauge-R8503/323074026377?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item4b38b66b89:g:XAIAAOSwBV5ag-Re&enc=AQADAAACAKX%2FKt4E1xf3SDqEdBclaYacwEe3pC2vGTeaSQWPBPuYtun3HDc1Yjc%2BW4%2FabiwilKG3BOJ%2BCHvOgyWyyjGEgHNblUukf%2BJiLk8NugTgk8GjTuIcEP3lwdFFUsZej2wnGCH59gND%2BmswHf4F%2Fv70nrp8DbpGn%2F%2B5NVDJb08G2p4p3tMayd5Q%2FMMUk6m7Lkp7%2BmOtdqYU5lT6q222nvRyZUfYi1puwuXCm%2BjdEQ9%2BxHnzwFghE2V8kT%2BcX6Nw58xZfHf2%2F0hZa%2BB6J0A6fIi2E%2FcSL%2FMFhC1UMcb3QonTCqxTEWnN0cnK0U%2BVHv20opvGu4vuR8GkhW6xv6kg1nc2z2xPN5ETNGUlJ4W7Yy5YAX5MwenJ7T4DGRVvu9DLbVnSg2qz0ZbztN8pzC0vYz0s2EZWdkw6l5hDbeEEzDO4Gi5RGG2dhsoduOROWy%2BQFMa%2FT4wABmXdUFc%2BCss9U1%2F3iCG0v42NJ2W4ZpLCv2CarXRxqwidRD6mSAhLCjzc%2BG5N%2F01jSukMQ7BFxE6klZ%2FKvVEHxkT7aC5YI%2FQZE%2FISFvkSKG8hC2mxmC0VolAjQrJ%2FEWe8rLX5Ygou5jyRNp3gVK9Jt2eUmiJziqblEl4Y2jAAr53IOhRQDIl4WCeFixL%2Bq6k3G9CWwN1xaV6BKEw0yhkKn8IJU3AyUHcJr2tuLX6Z&checksum=3230740263776089a0dc4cf1489b8ca1ba557c34986e I also have a Tiny Tach in my red 720 dually diesel, and the SD22 powered silver 720 I had before, and one on one of my pressure washing engines, it worked flawlessly on the silver 720, it works great on my pressure washing engine, it does not work properly on my red 720 dually diesel, every time I let off the pedal it switches to total hours and then when I step on the pedal it goes back to RPMs, it's very annoying, and I called the manufacturer I bought it from and they would not do anything about the real issue, they sent me another sensor for the injection line but that was not the issue, the unit itself is the issue and they would not return my inquiries after sending the sensor, I will not buy another one again, but the first one on the silver truck worked flawlessly, it's the type of one in the link below. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Diesel-Engine-Tiny-Tach-HOUR-METER-TACHOMETER-with-6mm-Transducer-MDS-6-DTL-6/271251303964?hash=item3f27d66e1c:g:Z1AAAOSwstxVQTQT Just search "diesel tiny tach", keep in mind that they are internally powered by a battery inside of the housing, when that battery dies you need a new one. The diesel powered 720 with an SD22 engine doesn't go anywhere fast, but it seems to keep on running as long as you change the fuel pre-filter and main fuel filter every once in a while, I seem to go thru the pre-filter in a year or less(cheapo filter), and the main filter appears to last a long time when one uses a pe-filter, I now use a pre-filter screen type filter in the 521 turbodiesel, And I use a fancy pre-filter in my 720 turbodiesel.
  18. I would not rebuild that block unless I was in the middle of Alaska with no chance at all of finding another block to replace it. Personally I would find a Z22 block to make an LZ23 and rebuild that, but an L20b is just fine if no other choice. This guy has a couple blocks for sale. https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/pts/d/hacienda-heights-datsun/6901643482.html
  19. wayno

    What are these parts?

    OK, yes the PCV valve was the first real emissions device to limit hydrocarbons, but before the PCV valve engines were lucky to get a 100,000 miles on them, this is because with no PCV valve oil gets saturated with un-burnt fuel and water vapor, the oil turns to a sludge inside the engine and contributes to a shorter lifespan of an engine compared to an engine with a PCV valve. For the PCV valve to work properly the engine also needs a crankcase breather, the breather has 2 functions, to let fresh air into the block that the PCV valve is sucking out of the block, and to let air out of the block from blow-by so gaskets don't leak from excessive block pressure that the PCV cannot handle, so the crankcase breather(on the valve cover on an L block) needs to be routed to a filtered source like the air filter housing. A road vehicle can only benefit from a PCV valve, it helps keep the oil clean and helps the engine last longer. The PCV valve does nothing to hurt the performance of an engine, in fact it likely adds a slight amount of burnable fuel( hydrocarbons) into the manifold to mix with the un-burnt fuel already in there. The pistons on their down stroke pull a certain amount of air into the cylinders, by the time that air gets to the valve that PCV valve has zero effect on that moving air/fuel, fact is that turn it has to make to get onto the cylinder is way more of an issue, the fewer turns that air/fuel mixture/charge has to make the better off you are, down drafts are terrible.
  20. wayno

    What are these parts?

    Is your valve cover vent plugged off?
  21. wayno

    Hot LZ23

    I had several doglegs in my work truck, I found it hard to go from 1st gear to second gear when I would make a turn onto a road that went up hill right after the turn, I had an L20b in the truck at that time and with the trailer with all my pressure washing equipment in it and a half ton or more of debris in/on the flatbed it was tough to keep that truck moving up hill, once I moved away from the dogleg 5spd to the 71B I found that I was hard on the second gear syncro as I mentioned in my last post being I was slamming it into that gear trying to keep the truck moving up hill when shifting, the LZ23 sure helped with the hill issues, but that truck and the way I drive is hard on transmissions, it takes power to keep sometimes 7000lbs moving, that is why I had 1990 D21 V6 front disc brakes on my modified 521 work truck, it takes good brakes to stop sometimes 7000lbs also. Now maybe everyone understands why I went thru 4 doglegs in 5 years and why I had to figure out how to make a 71B shortshaft 5spd out of the 85/86 Nissan truck that fit my L block, I was very tired of replacing that transmission. The dogleg 5spd is really not a good transmission for a truck, it's not a good transmission for a car either if that car spends a lot of time on the freeway, 5th gear starts howling if your in 5th gear for hours on end.
  22. If you keep the stock drive train in your 4wd truck you will need to make or buy a custom oil pan, they had 4wd diesel 720s in Australia but I have never had any luck getting a response from any wrecking yard over there about any part, make a oil pan or convert over to a solid front axle, oil pan seems easier. The 720 with an SD22 had 3.89 gears in the rear stock, but I would not expect it to push a heavy 4wd truck down the freeway at freeway speeds, it just doesn't have the HP. I helped my friend turbocharge his 2wd 720 with an SD22 engine last Saturday, I was not impressed, the result was not even close to the result I got when I turbocharged both my SD25 engines, he says he has more power now, but I was not impressed, I need to talk with him more and he still needs an exhaust system. It appears you have thought about this from your first post, I know a guy that has a 4wd diesel with the stock front diff as I recall, if you need photos I suspect he will let me take photos if he still has the truck, he had some health issues a few years ago and had to buy an automatic vehicle so he could drive, let me know. I can say this for sure, the 4wd diesel oil pan is very strange looking, but so is the gasser 4wd oil pan.
  23. wayno

    Hot LZ23

    I wrote a how to article on how to make a short shaft 5spd for your 521 because I hate them dogleg 5spd transmissions, having to change out 4 of them in 5 years kinda sucks/didn't help my attitude about them, the transmission I made lasted 5 years and it still worked fine except for the 2nd gear syncro and it popped out of first under compression, but that was my work truck, dogleg 5spds are fine in a car that doesn't haul weight or tow anything.
  24. I don't know what form a gasket is, but if I use anything at all on the stock type gasket, I only use high tack on one side because I want it to stick to the valve cover or oil pan, I don't want it to stick to the block. Normally the first time I put gaskets on dry, but the second time I use a gasket if it came off clean like on the intake/exhaust I put a little something around the coolant holes, used gaskets sometimes need a little extra help. I hope it works out for you and doesn't leak anymore, it sucks when one works so hard to do something and it doesn't work out, it happens all the time to me, but I usually am doing something weird like making a kingcab or trying to lower something and cannot get the angles right, then it turns out it was something else and not the angles at all, and that happened because I totally changed everything when I extended the frame and had a custom drive line made, stuff comes back and haunts me all the time.
  25. I think(my opinion) that the Z24 sounds over revved above 4000rpms, but you have a Z22 and that block is different, I have never been in a Z22 powered 720 that ran so I don't know what they sound like, I have a LZ23 but that is a Z22 block with an L head on it, so it is more like an L20b, but they start sounding over revved at around 4500rpms, but that is going thru the gears, not in 5th gear going down the freeway, I have had my work truck up to 5500rpms in 5th gear and it didn't sound that bad, but it sounds terrible in any other gear.
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