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wayno

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Everything posted by wayno

  1. I looked at mounting the starter on the drivers side, but the exhaust is way too close to the block, no room for a starter there.
  2. It really doesn't make a difference anymore as the napZ case will not work, the stock J series starter works fine. Keep in mind guys the the J series starter is smaller around, the motor and aluminum front part(cone) are smaller, the hole they fit in is 2 5/8" round, the L/Z series starter hole is 3 1/8" round, I suspected the MGB starter was the same size as the J series starter. If the L series starter would have lined up with the J series flywheel I might have went that route but it didn't and I didn't want to add another part(flywheel) that someone needed to find to do a 5 speed conversion, so i kept the J series starter and that is something everyone already has on their J series engine already, I am trying to keep this simple, J series everything except the transmission and adapter plate, and maybe the throw out bearing collar if I can find a 240mm collar to see if it will work. The thing is that the short shaft 5 speed in the late 720 has the 240mm flywheel, so if you find the short shaft you also found the 240mm collar, right now I have the stock J series collar/throw out bearing in there with the pivot ball shimmed to put the arm at the angle I want. See this MGB starter in the link below, it has no nose cone on it, so it can be mounted at any angle as long as there is room for the mount holes in the plate, but again the napZ front transmission case will not work and the L case does work with the stock J series starter, so it doesn't matter anymore. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Heavy-Duty-Gear-Reduction-Starter-Motor-for-MGB-from-1968-1980/171522199941?fits=Model%3AMGB&hash=item27ef851185:g:Zb0AAOSwxCxT6lwI:sc:USPSPriority!97266!US!-1 I believe this starter above would have likely worked, but there is no point chasing it. I am thinking about seeing if this plate will work in my 1963 Datsun 320 kingcab I have before the Canby replacement event, maybe haul/drag it down there for the weekend with a 5 speed in it, I have everything I need except maybe the room, I am thinking about pulling the tunnel cover off of it and doing some measuring, this was the point of all this anyway I just had a J15 block on the stand instead of an E1 block, I believe the plates are the same as more than one 320 I know of has a J15 in it.
  3. Well the re-clocking of the starter a 1/16th inch was successful, I can now get a feeler gauge between the starter and the block, I can't see the space but it is there. I have just over a 1/16th inch clearance here under the distributor also. It could not get much closer to not being possible to make this adapter, I looked into the MG starter again and I have doubts the stock MG starters will work because the mount holes are clocked differently than the cone on the end of the starter, but they were selling expensive aftermarket starters without a cone that would likely work, but since the napZ front case will not work I don't see the point in even buying one as the stock J15 starter will work, well mine does and I have a couple of them from J13 engines and they are the same.
  4. I have no idea how to use a button to warm the glow plugs, remember I said use a large gauge wire to warm them with, well if your going to use a bypass button it better be heavy duty, as that is a lot of juice to run thru a button, that is why it has a glow plug relay. I would try figuring out what the issue is first, follow the wire that plugs into the glow plugs at #4 cylinder(white/red), trace it backwards to the glow plug relay and make sure all the wires are connected, check the wire on the opposite side of the relay(white), it should have power all the time, if it doesn't have power then follow that wire back to the fusible links plugs and figure out why it has no power, if that white wire has power then on the passenger side of the cab just under the dash under the glove box there is a glow plug electrical devise, make sure it has both plugs plugged in, if they are plugged in then unplug them and plug them back in, then turn the key on and quick check to see if the glow plugs are getting power at #4 glow plug, you have to use a test light or volt meter as once the engine has been started a couple times and is warmed up it will start even though the glow plugs don't work, you only need the glow plugs warmed up if the engine is cold. The glow plug timer will act weird(only stay on for a few seconds) if the alternator is not working correctly, so if the glow plug light in the dash only comes on for a few seconds instead of 20+ seconds when it is cold, then check the plugs/wires on the alternator, make sure the plug is in all the way. I do not know why so many things are tied together in these diesel engines, but Nissan did it that way, also the oil light sender/sensor in back of the oil filter at the back of the block on the passenger side can be a hassle, ,mine was, I had to unplug and leave it unplugged because my engine will not start when it is plugged in, I put an oil gauge in my truck and I have good oil pressure, so I have no idea whats up with that in my 720 turbodiesel.
  5. OK, I pulled it apart for a couple reasons, one to re-clock the starter mount bolts maybe a 1/16th of an inch, the other reason was to see if a napZ transmission/case could be used, I just don't see any way of doing it, even though the block could be ground down where it sticks out into the starter hole, the starter motor will easily be into the distributor a half inch if not more, and to tilt the transmission away from it would likely have the shift lever way into the passenger seat and the transmission mount would be tilted a lot also. Here is a photo looking thru the starter hole. It just doesn't look possible to me, also the starter cannot be relocated without cutting a giant hole in the transmission case, I am trying to do this without anyone having to modify anything other than the transmission mount, changing the front case is a conversion not a modification and can be done with everyday tools most of us have in our tool box(screwdrivers/ratchets/sockets/wrenches). I did it with an L block case which is a miracle itself, it could have so easily went bad, I got lucky.
  6. I don't know what to say, I will not suggest using starting fluid. Just try warming the glow plugs up by using a thick gauge wire for 20/30 seconds and then hit the starter soon as you can, I normally use a jumper cable when the engine is on a engine test run stand(I have a couple of them), I don't normally warm them for more than 20 seconds or so as that is how long it takes for the glow plug to be orange/red hot when I test them on the bench, but it may take a little longer when warming all 4 of them at the same time. If it starts then you know the issue, the glow plugs have not been getting warmed up and that is why it has not been starting.
  7. There are still a couple months left, this is the reason I suggested leaving the "Canby 2019" thread open so it can be un-buried and people can find it and see what is going on, there is plenty of time left, but it would be beneficial if that thread didn't become a thread full of nonsense.
  8. Well it's not going to start if the glow plugs are not warming up. Check to make sure the wire to warm up the glow plugs is connected to the connection on number 4 glow plug. If you need to move the truck use a heavy gauge wire and jump it from the positive battery post to the number 4 glow plug post for 20 seconds, then start it, the guy may have warmed it up before you got there so it would start while you were there.
  9. Lets hope it's not true for the regular people just trying to get by.
  10. Sorry but that is the wrong type of starter, that is like the 320 starter, there are 2 types of starters used by MG, there is that type and the type in the link below. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Starter-Motor-16164-for-68-81-MG-MGB/293042048758?epid=179619009&hash=item443aaacef6:g:rzQAAOSwpCFcrMWn I need one of these type starters to compare to my J series starter that has the solenoid on the other side of the one in the photo above.
  11. I just learned something today, they are different sizes, I never even noticed this before, I just knew what end was what, although I have got a 4wd 720 leaf backwards before, don't know how I did that if they are different sizes.
  12. I guess craigslist will be history for me if they want to charge me for selling auto parts, we shall see what happens.
  13. OK, I have never seen a Datsun/Nissan leaf spring with 2 different sized eyes before, and I have had them backwards once, but switched it around once I figured it out.
  14. So I tried to see how much room I had before the starter cone hits the inside of the transmission, maybe a 1/16th of an inch, I am right on the edge, the starter is also on the edge, it mounts flat on the plate but the solenoid is touching the block, I am considering trying to re-clock the mount holes a 1/16th inch so I can get a feeler gauge in between the starter and the block in that one place, I would feel better about it. I tried using a 225mm throw out bearing collar again, it just will not work, there was no play in the clutch arm, it was jammed against the front of the case clutch arm hole, I need to try a 240mm throw out bearing collar as it is shorter, I shimmed the pivot ball over an eighth inch and this is what it looks like using the stock J series throw out bearing/collar. You can see that ear on the transmission just below the clutch slave in the photo above, I suspect that would make a good spring connection to keep the throw bearing off the clutch cover fingers like the early slaves had. I mounted the short shaft 5spd today just to get 5 inches of tail shaft out of the walkway, I started the engine again to make sure there were no weird noises. I need to get a 240mm collar and a MG starter before I can make much more progress, the MG starter could fix the issue of the starter touching the block but I would rather use the J series starter if I can.
  15. You have a drive line in this equation also, you cannot pull the yoke out of the transmission very far without major issues. Do you have the leaf spring backwards meaning the front eye towards the rear?
  16. OK, I will try to answer your questions, no I didn't rotate the transmission case, I rotated where the J13/15 starter mounted, the J series starter is not as large as the L block starter, when I centered the J series starter in the L series case starter area the starter hit the distributor and the J15 block, since there was a little room left in the L series starter area, I welded up the original J series starter holes I made and I rotated the J series starter hole down as far as I thought I could without hitting the inside of the L series case with the cone part of the starter, now the J series starter is not centered in the L series starter hole/section in the case anymore, since I don't have a loose L front case I cannot see in there to see if there is anymore room to rotate the starter hole to get it farther away from the distributor, I will figure it out before I am done. All this above has nothing to do with the exhaust/transmission interference, nothing can be done about this, the mount bolt is not the issue, the case is just slightly too big around, I suppose the case and adapter plate could be notched in that area to clearance the exhaust pipe, but I cannot sell front cases with the adapter plates, I just don't have the cases to do that, I could notch the adapter plates so those who used them would know what area of their transmission case to grind away before installing the plate/transmission as it appears there is enough meat to do just that as the transmission case is ribbed in that area, but I suspect it is ribbed for a reason. Now the napZ case is another story, I just roughly measured them, keep in mind that the L case starter area/bulge, what ever you want to call it is at a certain height sticking out on the side of the transmission case, with the J series starter centered in the lower part of that area/bulge, the starter solenoid is an eighth inch away from the bottom of the distributor now, well to have the shift lever pointed basically straight up in the cab when in the neutral gate of 3rd/4th gear, the the starter will need to be rotated at least an inch and a quarter higher, this will put the stock J series starter solenoid way into the distributor even if I re-clock the starter itself to keep solenoid out of the block. All this said above I am not done looking at things yet, maybe there is a way to use the napZ case that I have not looked into much yet, the MGB starter appears to have the starter solenoid clocked/rotated down instead of up like the J series starter, I have already called a MG guy about this but I received no response, I really just need a cheap used functioning MGB starter with the solenoid connected to the starter as there are 2 different types, I don't want to put a lot of money into this, time is not a big deal, but money is as I am semi retired now, if I can find a cheap MGB starter I will look into seeing if the napZ case is an option, keep in mind that I am assuming the MGB starter is the same, as the J and MG blocks are very close to being the same in that era as the J13/15 and E1 block is basically a copy of an MG block, at least that is what I believe.
  17. You have to have the 3 prong part the plug connects onto also, do you have that? You should also unplug the white connectors and test each wire connection at the white plug for power, if they all have power then I suppose it will work for now.
  18. How loose was the clutch lever when not depressed? If it had more than just a little play then you should make a longer rod, it should only have a 1/16th inch play after you force the rod into the bottom of the slave with your hand.
  19. I just looked at the napZ case, no way to make that case mount pattern work, it puts the starter into the center of the distributor, good thing I didn't get fixated on that case as it would not have happened at all, the L case is it, but that case makes it possible to do the conversion.
  20. I only made this plate over the last couple days(part time), I have not put it in anything other than the engine test stand, in the end I thought this might interest 320 owners, as when one changes out the rear gears you lose the grunt power 4.88 gears had, but if one has another gear maybe it would be a more friendly driver with the stock gearing. I didn't think about this till just now, but the 1985/86 Nissan 720 5spd came with a napZ front case, I might be able to make an adapter plate for that transmission as the one I made is for a L block case, but if I can not get the starter position as low with the Z case as I did with the L case it will be impossible to do, right now the starter is not centered in the L block starter position, I put it as low as I could get it without having to start grinding away on the transmission case, I made this so no modifications would have to be made to the block or the transmission case.
  21. Thankyou Andrew Yes I used 1/4" plate for this one, stock is 3/16", after I made this plate I thought about it and concluded that it really doesn't need to be 1/4" as the engine has no more power with the 5spd, there are so many bolts so close together that I doubt it would bend id 3/16". I actually had to weld the starter holes closed so I could re-clock where the starter was located, welding the plate that much slightly warped it in the starter area, but not enough to cause an issue. The clutch slaves are connected to the transmission cases on both of the transmissions, as for the arms I have not looked too close at them yet, I believe it will work as there is 3/4" of an inch left before the arm hits the case at the hole in the case, so that is likely over an inch at where the push rod is in the arm, I think it will work. But I was thinking about seeing if I could use a 720 collar/throw out bearing, the J series one is flat while the 720 surface one is not flat, right now I don't have a 240mm collar to try a fitting, the 225mm collar was too tall. If I have to I expect I could shim the ball the arm pivots on, an 1/8" would be quite a bit at the push rod, I would try a 1/16" first. The engine came with a 3/16" adapter plate to mount the 4spd, I only used a 1/16" thicker plate on this one. This plate I made is what I would use to make more plates, I am thinking that 3/16" is enough.
  22. The reason you don't have the black plug is it likely melted and would not work anymore, mine is barely usable, I had to work on it for a while to get it to consistently work, like I said before my alternator would not charge because of a bad connection in that black plug, it was so melted that the 2 connectors inside were missing each other inside the plug when I plugged it in.
  23. I posted a photo of the diesel fusible links a couple posts back Charlie, they have 4 wires, the gas engines have 3 wires as I recall. Here is the photo.
  24. wayno

    new member, first post.

    Was it just as hard to pull the lever with the old rubber bumpers before you put the new ones on?
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