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mainer311 last won the day on January 25

mainer311 had the most liked content!

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About mainer311

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    Senior Member

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  • Cars
    1968 SPL311 Roadster, 1971 PL521 Pickup
  • Occupation
    Mechanical Engineer

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  1. Almost all old Datsuns have the same steering shaft diameter/spline. I know for a fact that my Roadster and 521 are identical, and I think someone mentioned that Z’s are the same as well. That might help with your search.
  2. Are there any custom exhaust shops around? We have a chain out this way (in Massachusetts) called Lou's Custom Exhaust. They'll slap tubing on anything with wheels. There has to be something like that near you who will put an exhaust on an old Ford.
  3. Yeah, too bad I wasn’t on the wrong coast. I’d work on it just for something to do.
  4. Yes, that’s the right one for single points. I run that kit in my roadster.
  5. I get that error every time I visit this site. Bad ground is just as bad as a bad positive. It's all a big loop, and the batt is just a source of potential.
  6. What's your junction block look like?
  7. mainer311

    My 1971 521

    You had a thread back in 2017 about trying to determine your paint color. I still think it's 567. Back in '70, Nissan called it "Medium Blue," which I think is a good description of what your truck looks like. Unfortunately, you'll never match the sun faded look of your original paint. If it was my truck, I would touch up the bare spots as best I could to prevent rust, and then throw a bed mat in there. That's what my plan is for mine, I just haven't gotten around to it. Tractor Supply has them for like $50.
  8. Your problem reminds me of old glass fuses, where, if you check the voltage on both ends, you get ~12-14, but as soon as you connect something, the voltage drops way off. It's trickery though, because you can run a continuity test and the meter will still buzz. It's just that the fuse wire is broken on one end and the impedance is really high, so you can't pull any current through the fuse. Think of your 1/0 wire as a glass fuse. You may be able to read full volts at the distribution block side, but you can't pull any current through the wire. It's bottle-necked. Your assumption is correct about the wire being bad. It could be as simple as the connection to the junction block, or it could just be the connection on the + side of the battery terminal. It could even be some broken internal wires somewhere within the cable run. Best bet it to pull the whole thing out and meter impedance from end to end. I'm not sure what you used, but I like to run a high strand wire for the larger stuff. I used this stuff called arctic ultraflex for heavy gauge wire. It has a very thick rubber insulation, but the high strand count makes it very flexible. Since you're relocated to under the bed, I'd even wrap it with something extra, which maybe you've done already.
  9. mainer311

    Hood closing rubbers

    See what you guys did? Now I'm searching for my rubbers.
  10. Don’t use photobucket. Use Imgur or something. That’s what I use. It’s easy and free, and you don’t have to make any of your pictures public.
  11. The easiest thing to do is to remove the rear line from the junction block, then make a hard line that runs from the removed rear line to the rear output on the MC. (You'll need a female-female coupler.) Then use a plug to plug up the hole in the junction block. Leave the entire front circuit as-is. The junction block is tapped 3/8-24, so get a plug that is that size. You can use a really short bolt with a copper washer on it. To use the D21 front hoses, you'll need to cut the 3/8-24 tube nuts off of the ends of the front hard lines, and then re-flare the tubes after switching to M10x1.0 tube nuts. I found it easier to just remake the entire front lines. Here's a picture of how I have it setup:
  12. Voltage shouldn’t change much, regardless of load. That’s the regulator doing it’s job. A low battery will cause the voltage of the alternator to start high and then once it’s charged, the voltage will settle to a lower value. Your relocation of the battery might have some small effect on the voltage as previously stated. In my mind, 13.5 is perfectly fine.
  13. Yes. Trans output and diff pinion angle should ideally be parallel (for U-joint driveshafts only!) The carrier bearing complicates things because it sits relatively level. Luckily the bearing is supported by that rubber donut, so it has some play. Your best bet is to make sure that ALL input/outputs are as level to the ground as possible (or relative to each other) and that all the yokes are lined up. On a vehicle with all u-joints, sometimes a tapered rear block doesn't make any sense, since lowering the truck probably puts the driveline more inline than it was before. If the pinion sat level to begin with, you want it to sit level after the lift/drop. (And if you ever tinker with your Frontier, Nissan switched to a CV at the rear of the propshaft at some point. With a CV shaft, you want the pinion to be as straight with the shaft as possible.)
  14. Well, I’m fairly certain the line is the “I’m warmed up” line.
  15. I cruised over to grab some pizzas tonight. This is steady cruising at 30-40mph, 87 and humid:
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