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mainer311

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mainer311 last won the day on April 14 2024

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    Massachusetts
  • Cars
    1968 SPL311 Roadster, 1971 PL521 Pickup
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    Mechanical Engineer

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  1. Well, if anyone is curious, the Nissan/Datsun OHC book says to measure between the lobes and rocker pads.
  2. I set all of the valves cold under the cam lobes before I fired it up for the first time after the rebuild, and have only mucked with it once after it started ticking. I think I want to fix it before spring hits and it gets driven again. I’m going to dig into my L series book when I get home and see what they say in there.
  3. Okay guys, what’s the consensus on where to measure valve lash? I’m seeing between lash pad and rocker tip, and the usual between rocker pad and cam lobe. Which one is it? L20b has been ticking a lot lately, and never seems to get better no matter how many times I adjust the valves.
  4. mainer311

    NM 521

    Two things that people in New England use in late fall before winter hits: Fluid Film. They make black and clear. It’s made from natural lanolin and rust proofs the chassis by making it shed water. The lanolin soaks into crevices and keeps water out. It kinda stinks and needs to be applied every year. You can get aerosol cans, or spray gallons of it using a “schutz” gun. PB Blaster Surface Shield. Less stinky, does the same thing, and also needs to be applied every year.
  5. mainer311

    NM 521

    You were in Las Cruces, weren’t you? That must be culture shock. I used to work with a kid named Will Durant that was from there.
  6. I use teflon pipe dope on the sender nut. It’s thick enough to seal, but you’ll still get ground through it. Just hit it with a multimeter after and verify there’s not a lot of impedance.
  7. mainer311

    521 Wont Charge

    Yes. Both of the large positive cables to the starter solenoid should be large. The one from the batt to the solenoid, and the one from the alternator to the solenoid. The reason being is that all running accessories and the battery charging will be handled by that new large wire, and if the alternator is capable of supplying double the current, then you'll need it. It's also safer if you splice a fusible link into the wire between the alternator and the starter solenoid. Anything over 60A would be fine, with a little margin. 100A, or so. I think I ran 4AWG, which should handle 100A of 12VDC. The "stock" positive battery wire is usually much larger and obviously already sufficient.
  8. Acetone and textured paint. I’ll tell you what though. Those plastic column clamshells are often broken on many cars. Most people need a whole replacement anyway.
  9. There’s another way to do it without having to replace the whole trim. It’s a flared sleeve that epoxies into the original metal trim ring.
  10. There’s no Pertronix unit that is a direct fit into a dual-points dizzy, but it could probably be made to fit (and the “retarded” set of points disabled and removed). If you can find an early single-points dizzy, then a Pertronix unit is a direct drop-in. Else, you can find an EI dizzy and do it right with a lower impedance coil and no ballast. This is the best case scenario.
  11. Devon just sent this to me. Located in Middletown, CT. Asking price is a bit much. https://www.facebook.com/share/caXGE12tm4qsQS7M/?mibextid=79PoIi
  12. No problem man. It’s always nice helping out other people in our (small) Datsun community.
  13. Those stock L16's are so sluggish.
  14. Not sure about the fans, but I recommend a Koyorad for the radiator.
  15. Damn. I know someone who trashed a 302 mustang the same exact way. 😞
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