mainer311

As everyone said, it's part of the system that activates the retarded set of timing points for emissions purposes. It was also on '71 trucks. A lot of us ditched all of that crap.

The fast idle is part of the choke linkage. It should just activate when the choke is pulled. If it doesn't, then part of the linkage could be removed/missing. You jumped through all the hoops to get an FID in MA? My guess is that it's not too hard to get one out that way. It was a nightmare to renew mine when I lived in Watertown. Now that I'm out in the sticks, no one cares again.

It doesn’t work that way. Especially if they’ve been installed for a long time. I removed the pivots from my W58 head, no issues. Used a 6 point socket that I machined flat in the end (no internal chamfer left) and a breaker bar.

I'm going to put this into my mental locker for next time. Surprised I never tried that before.

Ray, what is there left to do on it?

34 isn't really tiny. I'm running 34's on my built L20b with ported head and bigger valves. 28's are tiny.

The problem I had was that it would be going fine, and then all of the sudden, one of the flutes would take a huge bite and leave a gouge in the bushing. With such a small bore tolerance, these things are better off honed. Technically, they're supposed to be line-honed anyway, to get the bores of both bushings to be completely in line with each other. Most of us are capable of getting everything pressed in and ready to go, but the equipment needed to do this the right way is left up to a shop.

Those adjustable reamers from Amazon are trash. I tried to use one to ream bushings on a steering box and it didn't work for shit.

Just picked up a new daily. Hearing turbo noises through a snorkel is ridiculously amusing.

8” is fine as long as you have negative offset to get the wheel away from the tension rods when turning all the way. If they’re 8” wide and 0 offset, you might have rubbing issues when turning. Of course, you can always add spacers.

Well, if anyone is curious, the Nissan/Datsun OHC book says to measure between the lobes and rocker pads.

I set all of the valves cold under the cam lobes before I fired it up for the first time after the rebuild, and have only mucked with it once after it started ticking. I think I want to fix it before spring hits and it gets driven again. I’m going to dig into my L series book when I get home and see what they say in there.

Okay guys, what’s the consensus on where to measure valve lash? I’m seeing between lash pad and rocker tip, and the usual between rocker pad and cam lobe. Which one is it? L20b has been ticking a lot lately, and never seems to get better no matter how many times I adjust the valves.

Two things that people in New England use in late fall before winter hits: Fluid Film. They make black and clear. It’s made from natural lanolin and rust proofs the chassis by making it shed water. The lanolin soaks into crevices and keeps water out. It kinda stinks and needs to be applied every year. You can get aerosol cans, or spray gallons of it using a “schutz” gun. PB Blaster Surface Shield. Less stinky, does the same thing, and also needs to be applied every year.

You were in Las Cruces, weren’t you? That must be culture shock. I used to work with a kid named Will Durant that was from there.