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Greaser2

70 Datsun 521 newbie

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28 minutes ago, Primerdimer said:

Do you know if this is a stock bench or out of something else?

Something else. No idea what however. 

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On 6/15/2019 at 9:24 AM, Greaser2 said:

Got my front smoothies in finally and mocking up. Fits fine. Thinking trim rings? Also taller tire as the gap is 1.75” now?  What do you guys think. MOYEnVX.jpg

jpBBNo7.jpg

US steel smoothie 510 series 16x8. Tires are just for mock up but they are 205/50

Maybe it's just me, but the wheel placement looks kind of outdated. It could be moved forward an inch or so to give a more aggressive look.

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Can’t disagree. These are 1950’s style smoothies. The tire was a mock tire and the tires I’m actually going to go with will be a bit taller and should change the look some. Also, the black on black is visually odd. If trim rings don’t change the look then I will likely change the wheel color to a grey or green. 

 

Got it a call that my last two rims are finally in. Will go get them Friday. 

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Yeah I do t think any tire is going to solve that except for maybe white walls.  Black wheels with a fat black tire just mold into each other making it look like one big tire. 

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Finally got all the wheel in so I put on these front disks.  Kit is from silvermine motors.  braking is much better.667NBvw.jpg

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After 4 months finally got new wheels and tires done. Went to 4 inch blocks on rear. SCFjoo8.jpg

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Sits nice. Can never go wrong with the hub caps. Did you raise the center carrier bearing to compensate for drive shaft angle from lowering?

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Truck looks great!

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29 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Sits nice. Can never go wrong with the hub caps. Did you raise the center carrier bearing to compensate for drive shaft angle from lowering?

 

I did not, the angle looks ok to me. Anyone feel I will have issues?  The carrier seems to be in great shape so didn’t want to jack with it. When I pull the engine and trans I can take another look. I may want to go with a 5 speed if I can find one and would expect some drive shaft mods. 

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6 minutes ago, Charlie69 said:

Truck looks great!

Thanks. Not positive why my doors are a shade darker then the body but will fix when I paint the engine bay.  Next project is reupholstering the interior.  Here’s a peak at the materials. zr6Io3w.jpg

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13 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

Looks great. How much was the brake kit?

 

$700

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1 hour ago, Greaser2 said:

 

I did not, the angle looks ok to me. Anyone feel I will have issues?  The carrier seems to be in great shape so didn’t want to jack with it. When I pull the engine and trans I can take another look. I may want to go with a 5 speed if I can find one and would expect some drive shaft mods. 

 

U joints have to speed up and slow down when turning around a bend so two are used that are 1800 to each other. The one accelerating cancels out the one decelerating. But only if the angles are equal.

 

 Note left side is constant speed but right has to speed up and slow down.

jD9eeG7.gif?noredirect 

 

Probably not able to see the change. Usually 1" spacer under the carrier for every 2" of drop... but this is just 'close enough'. Best way is a drive line level gauge. Borrow one.

 

How-To-Fix-and-Prevent-Drive-Shaft-Vibra

 

Angle in equals angle out. Measure with truck sitting on ground and if picky, a full tank and someone in the driver's seat. Measure the front and rear drive shaft angles and compute the angle at the front U joint. Now measure the drive shaft and differential angle and work out that bend angle. They must equal each other or vibration will be the result.

 

Two bolts to remove the strap that holds the carrier rubber doughnut. Place spacers between it and the frame to raise it and re check both angles. When the middle and differential angles  are equal, make something more elaborate, drill holes and get longer bolts.  The transmission and middle U joint are in a straight line so raising one end will produce equal angles on the front drive shaft. 

 

Some drop blocks have a built in wedge to tilt the differential, but again this is someone else's idea of what should work.

 

 

 

 

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Cool thanks, when I get to the trans I will check all this out. Can’t feel any issues as yet. If I go with a 5 speed which I anticipate will be longer can I go to a single drive shaft or will there be clearance issues?

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Hard to tell, but being lower effectively raises the differential relative to the cross member the carrier bearing is bolted to. Less chance of hitting it with the driveshaft on a bounce. Even if you do go to a one piece, the driveshaft angles must be addressed and corrected. 

 

On my car, I lowered and went to a longer 5 speed. I didn't notice the rumble and vibration till it was gone!!! What a difference! 

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Anyone have a fan switch knob. Or better yet, what are you replacing your pull knobs with. Just a matter of time before they break. MOtXTBG.jpg

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What's wrong with that one or is it just a photo of the one you need that you found a photo of?

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On 9/4/2019 at 11:30 AM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Maybe it's just me, but the wheel placement looks kind of outdated. It could be moved forward an inch or so to give a more aggressive look.

I personally like it & the black on black.

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A dude made some a little while back but limited run of them.   But i think thisismatt bought 2 sets and he doesn't use anything he buys so maybe you can get a set off him?  

 

36252692711_f721e02a6b_z.jpg

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30 minutes ago, wayno said:

What's wrong with that one or is it just a photo of the one you need that you found a photo of?

The back side behind the set screw blew out. 

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4 minutes ago, Greaser2 said:

The back side behind the set screw blew out. 

 

Happens to all of them.  

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8 minutes ago, d.p said:

 

Happens to all of them.  

Yep, looked around at billets but they don’t have symbols or markings to tell you what they do. 

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The odds are any knob that is sent to you is going to have cracks there if one looks close.

The screw holding it on should be on the bottom, you cannot see it when sitting in the seat.

 

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