70 Datsun 521 newbie

[Greaser2]

10 hours ago, wayno said:

That is the second photo he posted to this thread D.P, he likely relocated it after that but he just posted that photo again when starting a new phase of his build, some times it's easier to just re-post a photo rather than taking a new one.

Personally I would leave that engine in there and build an L20b on the side, then change them out and only worry about cleaning up/painting the engine compartment during that phase, but I am speaking from the point of view of a person that has only once thoroughly cleaned/painted an engine compartment before, I just get the outside nice and drive the shit out of them, I cannot own something that clean because then I would never drive it in fear of getting it dirty, I end up selling them when they are really nice before they get dirty and scratched up.

No, I took the photo yesterday. The old battery back is the confusion.  If the original L16 has issues I will likely switch to an L20B. Giving myself 2-4 months to get everything done. Biggest reason I bought this truck is to work on. 

[Greaser2]

These two switches, what are they doing? The top one mounted on the fire wall is operated when pedal is WOT.  The one below it in the pic is on the back of the carb again seems to be activated by the throttle cam rotates at WOT.  One or both could be for retard?  

[DanielC]

If you have the original dual point distributor, and the original four speed transmission, and I see you have the original Hitachi carb, the carb, firewall, clutch, and transmission switches activate the second retarded set of point in the distributor when in third gear, at part throttle.

The second set of points should be set to open 5 distributor degrees after (late, retarded) from the primary points.

This results in ignition timing being 10 degrees retarded when the second set of points is activated, and if the initial ignition timing is set at 10 degreed BTDC, in third gear. part throttle, the engine runs at ignition timing of 0 degrees, or TDC for the spark to occur.  

This was done to reduce exhaust emissions.

Edited December 22, 2019 by DanielC

[datzenmike]

Late or retarded timing causes a lot of heat to go out the exhaust port instead of doing work, like turning the engine at low speed. This does three things. It dumps a lot of heat into the water jacket around the exhaust port so the engine runs hotter that it should or needs to be. The low speed is not as good as it could be because efficiency is wasted and the hot exhaust more easily combines with the air injection to burn off any unburnt hydrocarbons.                                                 ./

[Greaser2]

Ok, didn’t know about a fourth switch on the carb. Will be going with an Hot Spark Performance EI so no need for all these switches. 

[datzenmike]

Yeah, take it all off and run the proper advance full time. There is also a relay for the dual points. Disconnecting it will eliminate the retard set, so will removing it.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Th switches are usually for the duel points distributor

if one has a single point dist one can use a Pertronix ignition conversion which have been great for me

the HotSpark is a Chinese Pertronix Clone and they make whole distributors also I seen on EBay.Those distributors (Amazon)might not be a exact drop in due to the timmimg plate not matching the original to match the mount since over the years the L16thruL20 there was a a few versions .So one might have to make or mod or mismatch parts or even move the dist oil spinal reclock to get it at TDC

Just remember they use the stock point coil and the ballast otherwise you can pop the module. Unless they supply a higher resistance coil with the kit.

[Greaser2]

Thanks. I got a ballast and coil to match the EI. I did see that there can be physical differences but mine looks to be correct. Fingers crossed. 

[mainer311]

You don’t need to run a ballast if you’re running a matchbox, or pertronix/hot spark. The ballast is there to drop the potential across the points to prevent premature wear from arcing. If there are no points, then there doesn’t need to be a ballast.

[banzai510(hainz)]

 Pertronix says use the ballast and stock high resistance coil in the kit or the 3ohm Flamethower coil.Says in kit to keep under 4amps . Module may pop sooner.This was a common problem on Mallory Unilite conversions also people swap in higher voltage low ohm EI coils or removing the ballast resistor

[mainer311]

Ah, that’s right. The coil needs to be 3 ohms.

[Greaser2]

Got distracted by this high tech black box so cleaned it up. The valve was stuck and the knob set screw was broke off so had to deal with those. 

[greenthumb]

Ha! The shutoff valve is classic. Love it!

[bilzbobaggins]

3 hours ago, Greaser2 said:

Got distracted by this high tech black box so cleaned it up. The valve was stuck and the knob set screw was broke off so had to deal with those. 

\

Any wisdom to doing that job?  The dick on mine is mangled from using pliers to open and shut it.   And its been 7 years since that was done.

[BrothersGarage]

Damn that heater came out fantastic! Nice knob! I have been digging around looking for a suitable close to OEM replacement. 

[Greaser2]

25 minutes ago, BrothersGarage said:

Damn that heater came out fantastic! Nice knob! I have been digging around looking for a suitable close to OEM replacement. 

I have a replacement knob but even if a set screw was not broke off in the valve, it probably would have broken eventually.  I drilled the set screw out, this left me with a  hole through the valve post. Picked up a cast iron looking water valve in the hobby lobby draw pull isle.  Drilled out the center to accept the valve post, shorted it’s length a bit,  then drilled a cross hole for a screw that intersects with the hole I drilled in the valve. 

Edited December 25, 2019 by Greaser2
Add pic

[Greaser2]

1 hour ago, bilzbobaggins said:

\

Any wisdom to doing that job?  The dick on mine is mangled from using pliers to open and shut it.   And its been 7 years since that was done.

Take the front cover off and disconnect the hoses on the back. The core will slide out.  I sprayed WD40 in the valve side pipe and let it soak I’ve enlightened. then used a 3/8 wood dowl to knock it out, make sure to remove the worlds smallest screw first.  Clean up your “dick”,  fine sanded the brass valve and receiver till it slides nice. New #9 o-ring.   Add your new knob. 

[Greaser2]

Can anyone explain how to separate the distributor from its base.  Looks like it should slide right off??  Oh, and that screw u see is sheared off on top so it’s holding nothing  

[datzenmike]

Should slide off....

 

The broken screw simply locks that plate to the pedestal baser. The screw that hold the top part to the plate is just to the right. the screw goes up into the case.

[mainer311]

There’s an o-ring in a small counterbore in the base. They dry out and get stuck. I always put anti-seize on the boss of the dizzy before reinstalling it into the base. If I remember right, the first time I ever worked on the 521 dizzy, I had to clamp the base in a bench vise and then rotate the dizzy as I pulled up on it. Put a new o-ring in.

Edited December 25, 2019 by mainer311

[datzenmike]

[d.p]

Knock it off with a rubber mallet.  

[Greaser2]

3 hours ago, d.p said:

Knock it off with a rubber mallet.  

That didn’t work.  Had to use a hammer. It was on good.  

[Greaser2]

I’m seeing several rebuild kits and figure a majority of the parts in the kits are fine but then a few I should get special like the Head gasket.   Opinions?  

[d.p]

You can buy the felpro kit for like $70 IIRC and it comes with every gasket you could think of. I used that when I hade my head done and sealed up fine. No leaks anywhere. 
 

 

Edited December 27, 2019 by d.p