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banzai510(hainz)

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Everything posted by banzai510(hainz)

  1. as stoff said I would pull the rockers out and mark where they go to and see if the cam spins freely otherwise you have to get the top flat also. I had a shop did mine years ago and while at it get the head welded for thet hole. Might be more that you can afford but thats a closed chamber head. I would save it myself, or least not throw it away yet
  2. you got a sway bar in rear? or not what the fuck I know. If I knew I be on the 510 realm
  3. put a weber on there and maybe youll get another 5 hp. 70HP is really almost dreaming
  4. banzai510(hainz)

    My 1971 521

    where that fuel pump arm go?
  5. some people get a Mk1 or 2 VW golf lip if your car is real clean I would not even get one as this one
  6. looking great!!!!!!!!!!! that intake gasket looks on the small side. the SSS gasket or Felpro is a thre 1.5 inch intake hole size
  7. rocker arms can be soemwhat noisey. you can tighten the valve lash up if too loose. maybe fuel pump arm ???
  8. put on jacks then put in gear and see if you can hear where it comes from
  9. MIke is any accessory is ON lights ect pulling one of the battery cables , this test will not work. Every thing has to be on and d at idle if that where the draw is Low. a volt meter is best
  10. I swear there wasd soem 521 ones for sale recently from Rock auto or Parts Geek had them. acdelco versions I got. 2 sets
  11. first gear is down left. this is a 77-79 200sx 5 speed. if not then could be from a later 620 truck I guess
  12. what you mean doesnt run for long? if you think pump pu;ll the ouput hose off and point in safe direction and should squirt out gas. If anything I think it would be the carb needle valve getting sticky. there is a banjo fitting inlet. get a small wrench or screw driver and tap on it and gas should fill up if you still have the stock carb. Weber dont have that but one way to tell if carb is empty is when this happens pull over the cycle the carb linkage and see if gas is squirting in the carb should be a strong stream. If not then the float bowl is getting on empty. if ignition bad or you swapped to a newer coil the points will burn up. keep the stock coil and ballast in there. do not just swap stuff out. esp with point ignition.
  13. I dont like running off the alt output my self as it look ghetto. the alternator goes thru the fusable link( I THINK) so maybe thats why it was getting hot. If at Starter lug the fancircuts should just be battery and ground via your relay Mike pretty much covered what I want to say. I would hook up at staterter lug and I dont know why it would melt the fusible like it you had hooked it up at the starter or right at top with the batter(since both really the same)
  14. why dont you use a relay to power the fans. I think the later 510s have a airconditioner wire on the bottom of the fuse box underneath that turn on with the key and use that to power the relay and use the stater lug to power for the +power this I dont get why would it burn up the fuseble link????????????? if the power is ran on a different circut to the fan I never use the output of the alternator plus to hook up another circut this is white trash ugly. Hope you didnt ruin the wire harness. Seems like 510 guys do this and make the car worthless after awhile. a 3 row and stock fan/pump should be fine also
  15. most time its the selinoid I would try to put 12volts to it staraight from batter in case its a weak starter signal wire
  16. MIke I also want to know this as My 280zx GR is a 9 tooth but the troy ermish starter the HITORQ ones are 11 he sells for the 510. I havent run it. but alwasy wonder wont fit on a 521 due to hitting the frame
  17. does the timing go between 0 ant to +25 BTDC when you adjust the dist retard and advance??????? If not then thats the proplem. I put the orginal dist back in and see what happens. ck the cam timing at TDC. UNless your not charging correcotly I think its a dist proplem, Unless the motor was pulled out for another reason
  18. it should be able to go from Zero to +25 on the Timing light. using the distributor timing slot. My experinece is when people put dist in and its clocked to one side to keep it running it will not adv enough when it speeds up and goes out of time. this is all what I can think of right now. Meaning the mount is wrong(doesnt match the dist) or the spindal is off a tooth I think in aussie you guys used local made Bosch only other thing I can think off is tha cam timing is off , but highly unlikely
  19. L18 have the 4cc dish. I think steward Wilkinson or something like that in Australia has L18 pistons. or one uses 280zx non turbo in oversize for the flatttops 86mm is standard size i think or 1mm OS in L18 L20
  20. if car runs and idles its fine on the selionoid switch on the carb. most later Datsun after 1972 in the states had a 123volt wire for this (USA) dont know in aussie. if it was on the car but I would use that one instead oof using the + side coil. it should run with the point coil and the ballast but I believe you want the + side of the ballast to power the module. Meaning not go thru the ballast reisitor. Only the coil needs tha ballast otherwise will get hot and cook it. Also is the distributor close to the center of its movment.? if you had to crank the distributor all to one side to get the 7 deg then maybe the dist spindal is off. Carbs usually work fine as they just work on vacuum and only really need to watch the accel pump when you push the gas does gas squirt in the carb. If not then that will be a issue of bogging out back firing also. also if out of time. Put motor to TDC. and look where the rotor points too and hope its pretty much on the #1 plug wire. and you have adjustment on the distributor. One should go ez between 0 and +25 Btdc with a timing light
  21. If I remmeber right one should go between - up to 25 BTDC with the light and means the dist is pretty much on correct. remember the 8mm bolt under the dist to get more or less movent in the direction you need if possible from the timing plate all elase fails get a small tiny winnie vise grap and get the timing what you need and drive it hard and adjust the carb. then get the right parts what you need if you really think soemthing is mismatched. Othesr move the spindal one way or the other to get it right if the parts didnt match up. the 11/28 is the factory setting with the factory supplied mount and distributor its like timing a clock you can move the face of the clock or the arms or even rotate the plug wires off one when starting out from 1 3 4 2 ccw to get with in the timing plate slot movment most time i can come up to a car put on TDC and I pop the cp and if the rotor is between 1 and 3 I know its off esp if the dist is cranked to one side all the way. cuae if you put if in the middle of the timing plate it will be more towards 3 if noton it thus not starting or hard to start
  22. I believe the 40mm will work for both weber and Mikuni/ Solex 44 mikinis 45mm Weber
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