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Everything posted by banzai510(hainz)

  1. take a photo of your rad. I know the first gen 620 are be different. the have the return on the pass side. Datzenmike will chime on this and know for sure. I got a 521 and its same as a 510
  2. my experience is that the dist was clocked installed off a tooth and its to one side where it cant go anymore and cuts out. I had springs exploed and stuck vacuum advance and still run ok enough where the average Ratsuner might not know the difference. Most of mine where the dist bushing wearing out causing the shaft to wiggle at higher speeds( or causing point bounce when I had points. glad its working get a spare dist where you can trouble shoot faster next time. I always swap a dizzy and if no change I look at the carb(fuel delivery ) in most cases
  3. I would say your fine on the springs 480is close to stacking but just put one on and see. a machinist can cut down the seat area 5-20 thou if worried. I would get the Isky springs and only use one of your stock one and one of the aftermarket. inner or outer depends which one you want. but youll not need to overload the cam on just a daily driver stock motor. a place in australia has cool lash pads that use the stock reatainers so they dont pop out. if you know the size you need. If you can take a photo of the cam close up we can see if its new or a reground http://www.precisionshims.com.au/products/slotted the recessed shims on the bottom!!!!!!
  4. I would get a min of 460 to 475 lift cam if you have a closed chamber head like a w53 would be good also. but need to port out the intake maybe a 38/38 weber carb since it flat down in texas
  5. I see it I see it, weird never seen that before
  6. I dont see it this vid with the motor running and sit with timing light
  7. Personally I dont think the dist is bad. a video of the motor running with the timing light on the crank would have helped better to see whats it doing. at idle and rev up and adjusting the dist adv and retard
  8. no not stock. how hard to trace this out? if car runs then get rid of it
  9. I would go to the switch and ohm out which is ground. then the other side trace back to the fuse box and find where the power droped off or work back to the switch if you dont have a diagrame. if goes to the glove box area maybe reseat the the connectors also soemone told me there is a ground wire by the hood release lever but I cant remember
  10. 5-30 too thin unless you live in Iceland Delo should be fine
  11. banzai510(hainz)

    My 1971 521

    the wheels you have right now hide your drum brakes better.
  12. I never had good luck with the vacuum bleeders also
  13. find a good L16 that somebody swapped out might be ezer. People give them away
  14. thats why I use a long plastic clear line in a bottle and push thru till no bubbles
  15. It seems to work. I dont know how or why other people have proplems Learned most by watching my Dad doing brakes while holding the Flashlight
  16. I would pull the parking brake then see how far or how many pumps it takes to brakes to harden up more on the top. really the brakes should act better if the parking brake is pulled. Loosening the cable will be oppisite wont it? means you have to tighten(expand) the adjuster even more where the drum barely fits on As for the claim of bench bleed the master to itsself.??? whats the differece if I just keep refilling it. once the fluid leaves out the bottom of the master who cares. the air in the lines will, get pushed out along the way till it come out steady with no airbubbles. You got to hook it back up to the brake line anyways and still have to bleed that air out that might get back in there when screwing the nipple back on. I never have bench bleed a master brake or clutch. only time I had proplem was i had to put my finger over the hole inside when fluid to get it to suck then it worked. just my thoughts only other thing i can think of is the aftermarket Brake masters I always have to cut the threaded rod as its too long. it usually engages the pedal arm to soon pressing on the master as its mounted to the firewall. . not releasing its the common part. dont know if it can affect the mutiple pumps to get the brakes going right tighten up the adjusters then drive and then do it again
  17. YES this first soemtimes the bowl has a hole and fill fill up thus sinking
  18. dirty needle valve staying stuck closed
  19. I had them stuck also but it will advance and retard if you move the dist by hand
  20. you sure you have TDC right? when you installed the dist? was this running before the rebuild so why would the dist go bad? Vacuum adv, of set right the dist should be able to go from zero to +25 deg BTDC at idle
  21. Or is it Super stack or Super stockstock Accell ?????? these now made in China. The THe Big Yellow SUPERcoils are the good ones and hase a spare .7 ohm resisitor in the box. whats wrong with the old coil????? if you not converting to EI conversion as HotSpark or Pertronix modules and just useing the points in the distributor i wouldnt do anything. best improvement would be to convert to a point less ignition so you dont use the points. just changing to another coil is limited at best or Bad if you but the wrong one in there https://studylib.net/doc/18163198/troubleshooting-hot-spark-electronic-ignition-conversion-...
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