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d.p last won the day on July 11 2019

d.p had the most liked content!

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About d.p

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    1971 521, 2018 M3

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  1. d.p

    A 521 in Massachusetts

    They make little rubber dust cover boots for those. I got some for my toe links on my M3 but they came with them. Where to get them I have no idea but I do know they are out there. https://www.google.com/search?q=spherical+bushing+dust+boot&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS894US894&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwin96Sxg9foAhU7l3IEHe16DjEQ_AUoAnoECAsQBA&biw=2145&bih=1106
  2. d.p

    My 1971 521

    Also note if you order the side seals they are sold individually so get 2. OEM has no nail either, they are just thicker and more robust then the fel-pro ones.
  3. d.p

    My 1971 521

    I ordered OEM side seals from the local dealer. Also got another rear main just in case. these are the part numbers of anyone needs them: 12289-W0400 - Rear main side seals 12279-R4611- rear Main
  4. d.p

    My 1971 521

    I got a tub of bearing grease, that will do?
  5. d.p

    My 1971 521

    Yes I did and along the side seals. I think for the most part I did everything right. The only thing I somewhat struggled with was getting the rear main cap in straight. That thing is a bitch.
  6. d.p

    My 1971 521

    Fuck it I pulled the rear main cap to take a look. Also when rotating the crank it developed this weird whistle which sounded like it was coming from the rear main seal. seal looks ok to me though? I am going to order new side seals and then install the OEM seal instead of the fel-pro. can I use assembly lube instead of moly grease ? Or something else? I don’t have any moly grease on hand.
  7. d.p

    My 1971 521

    One thing I did read is the fel-pro side seals suck and that’s what I used. So if I want to swap those out for OEM ones I would need to do it before I put the head on. I am just going to order OEM side seals so I have options. As far as TDC my pulley is all marked and slotted so I would feel better if I could time it as close to TDC as I can so I can mark the pulley accordingly. Besides a dial gauge is like $30 from amazon.
  8. d.p

    My 1971 521

    Can’t do anything now as it’s on the stand. So I can either take the rear main out or just wait to get it off the stand and swap it then. will wait and see if I get bored enough to re-do it. Got nothing but time for the foreseeable future.
  9. d.p

    My 1971 521

    yes. Not sure how that section got pushed out. I have another and am wondering if I can simply take the rear main cap off and pop the other seal in? I’ll probably have to get another set of side seals but that’s no problem. Or can I just wait and pull/pry the rear main out and press another one in? Just need to know what my options are at this point.
  10. d.p

    My 1971 521

    I know but I don’t know why or how that happened. I have another seal and it seemed to have an issue as well. The book says to install before installing the crank so maybe that is why. Sucks either way.
  11. d.p

    My 1971 521

    No idea came like that with the engine.
  12. d.p

    My 1971 521

    Got the pistons installed but when got finished with that I noticed the rear main seal was fubar’d. I’m not about to take it all apart to replace It so I figure I will just replace it when I get it on a hoist or off the stand. Now I need to time it ...can someone recommend a dial gauge? Or is there some other easy way for me to time it?
  13. d.p

    A 521 in Massachusetts

    Yeah it really is odd what they are prioritizing... shampoo a couple days, weed killer 4 days, Ethernet cables 1 month. lol
  14. d.p

    My 1971 521

    I agree its going to be wild for the foreseeable future.
  15. d.p

    My 1971 521

    Haha I know this man. You can lease Tundra/Tacoma's for under $300 a month right now and I always wanted one as a DD but doesn't make sense to have 2 pickup trucks. Crazy deals are out there and only more to come if you aren't worried about your future income.
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