Crashtd420 Posted December 27, 2019 Report Share Posted December 27, 2019 23 minutes ago, Greaser2 said: I’m seeing several rebuild kits and figure a majority of the parts in the kits are fine but then a few I should get special like the Head gasket. Opinions? Banzai hainz just posted a couple good links to head gaskets in my thread.... I found felpro was good for the rest, and theres nothing wrong with their head gaskets either..... Oil pan gasket will get mixed reviews.. I ditched the cork gasket and went the liquid gasket route.... I had no luck sealing my oil pan with just the gasket... 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 27, 2019 Report Share Posted December 27, 2019 If the block and head surfaces are clean and flat any $25 Felpro gasket will work. If they are not clean and flat even an $80 one won't work. The last pan gasket I put on was granulated cork in a rubber matrix. Again for best results clean both surfaces and check for dimples around the bolt holes from over tightening. Hammer them out with a dolly and check flatness with a straight edge. I got this finish with 150 sand paper on a sheet of glass. 1 Quote Link to comment
Greaser2 Posted December 27, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2019 My oldest came over for Christmas so I had pull the engine. 4 Quote Link to comment
Greaser2 Posted December 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2019 Anyone know where to get trans pan and trans tail shaft gaskets? Can’t seem to find them. 1 Quote Link to comment
Greaser2 Posted December 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2019 (edited) Well, found the speed drive gear, nut backed off and the gear slide back. I assumed someone forgot to put it back on or it was in pieces. Edited December 30, 2019 by Greaser2 Spelling 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 30, 2019 Report Share Posted December 30, 2019 Well get that back on there. The nut torques to 100-120 ft lbs and probably wasn't tightened properly. Blue LockTite? Unlikely these are still available from the dealer but maybe these numbers can be used to cross reference them to a different maker. 32134-14810..... Rear extension gasket. See below for sealing 32162-14810..... Bottom pan gasket. If none available, clean both surfaces thoroughly and use a tube of Permatex gray sealer. Follow directions and let set up, install pan bolts finger tight, wait 20? min and finish tightening. 2 Quote Link to comment
Greaser2 Posted January 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2020 Going to make a new fuse box label but what is the first slot? Flasher/Reverse/Meter I think What is Meter? 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted January 6, 2020 Report Share Posted January 6, 2020 Meter is gauges. 1 Quote Link to comment
Greaser2 Posted January 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2020 Ok guys. My block and head are at the machine shop. My opinion is the cylinders and crank look great and likely a hone is all it will need. My issue is the 210 head, should I rebuild it as is or find another/better head like a W53. Will there be issues putting a non-210 head on a L1.6? What head do u recommend? FYI, plan to go with EI, header, and thinking a 32/36 or 38/38 Weber. Concerned that the 210 head will be an anchor to these upgrades. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted January 6, 2020 Report Share Posted January 6, 2020 (edited) AFAIK I know it doesn't make sense to do anything on an L16....look for an L20b bottom end or KA. At least thats what I did with mine, had my L16 head redone, installed a weber 32/36 ,el dizzy and been driving it like that for the last couple years. Bought an L20b to build up and eventually swap in. Edited January 6, 2020 by d.p 1 Quote Link to comment
Greaser2 Posted January 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2020 7 minutes ago, d.p said: AFAIK I know it doesn't make sense to do anything on an L16....look for an L20b bottom end or KA. At least thats what I did with mine, had my L16 head redone, installed a weber 32/36 ,el dizzy and been driving it like that for the last couple years. Bought an L20b to build up and eventually swap in. I wouldn’t have hurt my feelings if the L1.6 was not good, and still may not be but I’m inclined to keep it if it’s good. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 6, 2020 Report Share Posted January 6, 2020 The L16 was likely a great engine back in it's time, a great upgrade from the J13, but the L16 has its limits, it came out just before the oil crisis, it drove great at 55mph, it's not so great at 70mph, it also has no real torque to crawl up steep logging roads as I found out one day, I was following my friends up the hill with my friend in my truck so we could fly our hanggliders, well my friends in the trucks ahead had 4wd Dodge Diesels and other such sized trucks and they were driving at 10/15mph, we came to a 180 degree hairpin turn and my engine just didn't have the torque to keep moving up the hill, so I came to a stop floored, we unloaded my friends hangglider onto another vehicle and off they went up the hill while I turned around and started back down the hill, this was the first time I had ever driven this truck to fly my hangglider, I came to a flat spot an decided to try again, I turned around and waited for a little while to make sure my friends had made it to the top and I gave it the gas and up the hill I went, I went around that hairpin turn as fast as I could and floored it, I came to another 90 degree turn that was a true cliff on the outside of the turn and the road is still steep in this area, after the turn I was floored and I barely made it to the next flat spot, I made it up the hill. That next Monday I went to the wrecking yard(before U-pull its) and found a used L20b/dogleg 5spd for $400.00, I installed it that week and drove to Lake Chelan the next weekend(329 miles), we loaded up a couple of my friends hanggliders/harnesses and up the hill we started in my truck, that truck went right up that hill, there are sections that are way steeper than where I normally fly, I made a hairpin turn onto a very steep section in 2nd gear and it went right up that hill in 2nd gear, my L16 would not go up a less steep hill in 1st gear, what a great upgrade that L20b was, way better engine, I basically put a fresh 219 head and dual SUs on that used block and drove it for 15+ years in what is now my work truck, then I built an LZ23 and have been driving it since, that dogleg 5spd lasted longer than any dogleg 5spd as I had yet to buy my trailer and make that truck into my work truck, dogleg 5spds are not good transmissions for trucks that haul weight or tow trailers, I went thru 4 of them in 5 years. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 6, 2020 Report Share Posted January 6, 2020 1 hour ago, Greaser2 said: I wouldn’t have hurt my feelings if the L1.6 was not good, and still may not be but I’m inclined to keep it if it’s good. Nothing wrong with the L16.... but if you put anything other than a 210 head on without doing anything else you will lower your compression..... You need to either install flat top pistons or have the replacement head milled to bring back the compression ratio.... 210 head 38.5 cc combustion chamber Other heads. 45.3 cc Peanut heads 41cc 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted January 6, 2020 Report Share Posted January 6, 2020 Like I said not worth it IMHO. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 6, 2020 Report Share Posted January 6, 2020 15 minutes ago, d.p said: Like I said not worth it IMHO. I'll agree there.... you can spend half the money and build a stock L20b and get the same hp..... I only built my l16 because no one really does... 2 Quote Link to comment
Greaser2 Posted January 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2020 So nothing makes sense doing to a 210 head? What head then? Compression loss concerns? 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted January 7, 2020 Report Share Posted January 7, 2020 14 minutes ago, Greaser2 said: So nothing makes sense doing to a 210 head? What head then? Compression loss concerns? No head, get an L20b or KA24DE. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 7, 2020 Report Share Posted January 7, 2020 21 minutes ago, Greaser2 said: So nothing makes sense doing to a 210 head? What head then? Compression loss concerns? The 210 'number' head has small combustion chambers and is exclusive to the L16. Any other 'letter' head, like A-87, U-67 or W-58 will have larger combustion chambers and will lower the compression. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 7, 2020 Report Share Posted January 7, 2020 41 minutes ago, datzenmike said: The 210 'number' head has small combustion chambers and is exclusive to the L16. Any other 'letter' head, like A-87, U-67 or W-58 will have larger combustion chambers and will lower the compression. On an L16 block. 1 Quote Link to comment
Greaser2 Posted January 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2020 I will investigate the L20b direction. Will looks for a source. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted January 7, 2020 Report Share Posted January 7, 2020 I use this website all the time - http://www.car-part.com/ 1 Quote Link to comment
Greaser2 Posted January 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2020 Just heard from machine shop that the block will need to be bored so kind of good news. Need a L20b then? What else will I need to plan for? Plan to stay with the stock 4 speed for time being. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 7, 2020 Report Share Posted January 7, 2020 There's one for sale in the ratsun classified for $400.... looks like it's in cali.... not sure how the shipping would be .... 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted January 8, 2020 Report Share Posted January 8, 2020 Truck freight on an engine is not expensive. Maybe a couple hundred bucks. Where it gets tricky is in the packaging. Will the seller put it on a pallet and strap it down secure enough to make the trip? I would offer the guy another $100 to make it worth his time. Quote Link to comment
Greaser2 Posted January 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2020 After 50 years my steering column boot is a bit iffy so wanted to find a replacement. Got this 87-93 Mustang boot for $40. You can see it’s to big. Thats ok cause remove the 5 staples and remove the smaller one off the back. Remove the foam and the hole is now a pinch smaller then the column diameter. Use your stock boot to trim off the excess. Remove your old boot from the mounting ring and your ready. Mocked up. 5 Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.