datsunfreak Posted July 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2015 Got the corner clips today. Gonna pick up the other bits tomorrow and see if I can make it happen. Link to comment
Mattndew76 Posted July 29, 2015 Report Share Posted July 29, 2015 What you gonna make happen? 1 Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted July 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2015 What you gonna make happen? Nothing special. Seriously. Just a crafty end-around to my door sill plate woes... At least I think that's what he's talking about... :rofl: 1 Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted July 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2015 Removed the old door opening windlace... Bought 24 feet of new windlace... Found some "traction tape" that has a similar sheen and texture to the new windlace. Trimmed it down to 1" wide, cut it to the length of the original step plate... Rounded the corners and stuck it on. Covers the old screw holes well... New windlace installed (goes all the way around now)... Corners cut square because you'll see... 510 wagon corner pieces trimmed slightly to match the 1200 door opening curvature and installed... Now I can stop laying awake at night thinking about how I can make some step plates... ^_^ 5 Link to comment
Duncan Posted July 30, 2015 Report Share Posted July 30, 2015 Great idea! Looks good from here :thumbup: Now I can stop laying awake at night thinking about how I can make some step plates... ^_^ Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted July 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2015 Great idea! Looks good from here :thumbup: Definitely a viable option for those with beat-up/missing step plates. Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted July 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2015 Picked up a pair of early S30 seats on the cheap because they were ripped up... But oddly enough, one seat had a back with no rips and the other had a bottom with no rips... :thumbup: So I unbolted the backs from both seats, reassembled the two ripped halves into one whole seat to keep as a spare, then starting working on the good pieces... Going to try and dye the seat blue, so I took the side plates off so I could repaint them satin black... Flipped the bottom over to see if the 1200 seat bracket I have will fit. Spacing of tubes is decent, but the holes in it are way off. Who knew a 1200 had a wider seat track than a Z... Took some measurements and drilled 4 new holes and here we are. Need to get some longer bolts and maybe some washers to use as a spacer between the rails and the seat... Got the bottom scrubbed clean and ready for the dye... Used this SEM vinyl dye because the cap color was a spot on match for my door panels... But in reality, it's a good bit lighter, and has a little too much purple in it... :crying: So before I paint the top half, I'm going to go back to the paint store and get some more dye that's darker to see what it does... :blush: 1 Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted July 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2015 Got some of the darker dye today... That's much better... Bottom and top halves done... Slider drilled, painted, and installed... Side brackets painted and installed... Funny that the factory used these plastic gaskets between the side brackets and the seat back... And yes, I put them back in... ^_^ Seat bolted in... Figured since I now have a passenger seat, a seat belt might not be the worst idea... :rofl: Got this vintage Pyrotect harness from the parts stash and cleaned it up... Never used it because the shoulder harnesses were missing, so it'll make a passable lap belt at least... I like how it sort of mimics the shape of the Kirkey, and the color is a pretty good match (looks off in this photo a little, but it's not), but I kinda want to put some spacers on the bottom bracket to make the headrests the same height... :P I was planning to put the battery in the rear passenger floorboard, but since I added this seat, I think we'll be moving it back to the back. Somewhere in this area, after I cut off that bracket... Got a box and some other bits for it today. So time to get it back up on jackstands and run the positive cable under the car... I like this darker blue on the seat much better as it's quite a good match for the Kirkey. Only problem now is that I want to go ahead and pull the door panels (and maybe the dash pad) and dye them to match the new seat... :rofl: 5 Link to comment
dimlight65 Posted July 31, 2015 Report Share Posted July 31, 2015 Damn, now I wish I had come to work today! All of that might have inspired me to do something with the Econoline. Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted July 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2015 All of that might have inspired me to do something with the Econoline. Probably not. I did the seat dye before work, the seat assembly on my lunch break, and put it in the car after work, so... :rofl: I need a full day on it soon to button up a few other things so we can drive the damn thing... :bye: 1 Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted August 1, 2015 Report Share Posted August 1, 2015 Looks awesome, top notch. The darker blue looks much better, i am surprised how well the finish looks. Any advice on which battery relocation kit to buy? That's my next job on the ute. Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted August 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2015 i am surprised how well the finish looks. SEM is good stuff. Not cheap, but super durable as long as you get the vinyl super clean, and give it a couple of days to cure before sitting on it. We did an entire interior on an F250 Crew Cab with this once and even after 6 years of use as a work truck it never chipped or peeled, and still cleaned up well. Also did the door panels and seats on one of the 510s I built and 10 years later it still looks great. :thumbup: Any advice on which battery relocation kit to buy? That's my next job on the ute. This is the one I got: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1200a/overview/ We've used it a few times and it always does the trick. The 20 foot positive cable is nice, as it's always more than enough to get from the very rear of the car to the starter. Same thing but with a metal box: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tay-48101/overview/ 1 Link to comment
Dguy210 Posted August 1, 2015 Report Share Posted August 1, 2015 This is the one I got: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1200a/overview/ We've used it a few times and it always does the trick. The 20 foot positive cable is nice, as it's always more than enough to get from the very rear of the car to the starter. Same thing but with a metal box: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tay-48101/overview/ Nice link. I've got a shaved battery tray and was thinking of doing this. Link to comment
Z chopper Posted August 1, 2015 Report Share Posted August 1, 2015 SEM is good stuff. Not cheap, but super durable as long as you get the vinyl super clean, and give it a couple of days to cure before sitting on it. We did an entire interior on an F250 Crew Cab with this once and even after 6 years of use as a work truck it never chipped or peeled, and still cleaned up well. Also did the door panels on one of the 510s I built and 10 years later it still looks great. :thumbup: This is the one I got: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1200a/overview/ We've used it a few times and it always does the trick. The 20 foot positive cable is nice, as it's always more than enough to get from the very rear of the car to the starter. Same thing but with a metal box: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tay-48101/overview/ if you got the one with the metal box you could have maybe painted it to blend in with the rest of the trunk, but the vinyl dye could be used on the plastic box to make it match the interior. Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted August 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2015 Nice link. I've got a shaved battery tray and was thinking of doing this. Where is the battery now?!? ^_^ if you got the one with the metal box you could have maybe painted it to blend in with the rest of the trunk, but the vinyl dye could be used on the plastic box to make it match the interior. While that's a great idea, I'm not too terribly concerned about it on this car. I'm going more for a "survivor" look than a "restored" look. It's a lot cheaper. :rofl: But I can definitely see doing that on the next build... :thumbup: 2 Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted August 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2015 And honestly, I'm still a little pissed I didn't paint the floor black before installing the fuel tank... <_< <_< <_< :rofl: Link to comment
Dguy210 Posted August 1, 2015 Report Share Posted August 1, 2015 Where is the battery now?!? There is a aluminum mount in the frame rail for a small battery....I don't like small batteries. I usually use marine RV deep cycles for massive overkill, saved my ass more than once. Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted August 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2015 I usually use marine RV deep cycles for massive overkill, saved my ass more than once. Then you definitely want it in the trunk. :thumbup: And check dimensions of the aluminum box versus what battery you want. The plastic box I have will hold any size battery, but the aluminum box is a little smaller. 1 Link to comment
king bee66 Posted August 3, 2015 Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 Probably not. I did the seat dye before work, the seat assembly on my lunch break, and put it in the car after work, so... :rofl: it must be nice to be able to take care of things while still at work, its always amazed me how much stuff you guys can get accomplished. meanwhile im setting time aside on my days off, and its so damn hot outside all i want to do is go swimming. 1 Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted August 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 it must be nice to be able to take care of things while still at work, its always amazed me how much stuff you guys can get accomplished. It is nice to be able to work out of the same building where all your old Datsuns are stored. :thumbup: 1 Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted August 4, 2015 Report Share Posted August 4, 2015 Flipped the bottom over to see if the 1200 seat bracket I have will fit. Spacing of tubes is decent, but the holes in it are way off. Who knew a 1200 had a wider seat track than a Z... Curious to know how you attached the custom rails to the 1200 rails? Closer picture please. Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted August 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2015 Curious to know how you attached the custom rails to the 1200 rails? I did this: 1. Based on the spacing of the front-to-back bolt holes on the Z seat, weld two crossbars onto the 1200 rails while still attached to the 1200 seat, spaced apart to this measurement. 2. Measure distance of bolt holes side-to-side on the Z seat. Drill four new holes in the two crossbars you added to line up with the Z seat bolt holes. 3. Bolt modified 1200 rail "assembly" to the Z seat. 4. Bolt seat into 1200. Pretty simple really. Just measure a lot. :thumbup: Closer picture please. Too late. ^_^ Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted August 4, 2015 Report Share Posted August 4, 2015 I did this: 1. Based on the spacing of the front-to-back bolt holes on the Z seat, weld two crossbars onto the 1200 rails while still attached to the 1200 seat, spaced apart to this measurement. 2. Measure distance of bolt holes side-to-side on the Z seat. Drill four new holes in the two crossbars you added to line up with the Z seat bolt holes. 3. Bolt modified 1200 rail "assembly" to the Z seat. 4. Bolt seat into 1200. Pretty simple really. Just measure a lot. :thumbup: Too late. ^_^ Aaahaaa. I knew there was welding involved. Any way to do this without welding? Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted August 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2015 Any way to do this without welding? Oh, totally. But could I describe it over the internet? Who knows... :rofl: But here we go... Do as above, but... 1. Drill 4 holes in the 1200 seat track to correspond with the spacing of the 240Z seat mounting holes front-to-back. 2. Attach a two pieces of flat strap (1" wide, 1/8" thick steel) to the bottom of the 1200 tracks via bolts and nuts, going from side-to-side, one front and one rear. 3. Drill holes in the straps to line up with the Z bolt holes. Basically same as above but instead of welding a brace between the track, you bolt flat strap to the bottom of it. Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted August 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2015 And seriously, find a good welder in your town, or buy a Harbor Freight $100 wire welder and get busy. :thumbup: 1 Link to comment
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