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'73 1200 Coupe Project, aka Timmy


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E-brake mounted, but no lines yet (more on that later)...

 

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New lines connected to the caliper via late model Maxima banjo bolts...

 

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Was able to pop the lines into the factory clips for the original 510 hard lines...

 

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Routed both lines up over the top, then mounted a new junction to the floor (more on that later)...

 

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Will probably reclock it slightly to aim it at that hole on the lower right (original hole for e-brake cable)...

 

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So, here's why I couldn't finish the job...  :crying:

 

Turns out the hydraulic e-brake I bought uses a master cylinder that is not metric. So my original plan of rerouting the stock hard line up into the car to the master, then a new metal line from there to the junction will not work...   :sneaky:

 

Apparently they don't even use the same size fittings on both holes?!? The output is 3/8-24 and the input is 7/16-20. So plan b...

 

Going to order two more stainless braided lines. one to go from the master cylinder output to the junction, and one from the master input to the stock hard line. The upside is, instead of some ugly hard lines in the car, it'll have some nice pretty stainless lines. And with banjo fittings, they should be a lower profile as well. So...

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You could put a T in with a bleeder just higher than the bore to get all the air out...

 

Sort of flies in the face of chasing a cleaner install, doesn't it? 

 

I'm okay with it being right side up. Seems like you'd also be fighting gravity with it upside down, and yes it would be more difficult to bleed. 

 

As it is, bleeding may be tough, but we have a pressure bleeder that pushes the air out of the system. Hoping that makes quick work of it...

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20151003_082453.jpg

 

 

 

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Wait, wait, wait.  These calipers have provision for a parking brake cable.  Why are we doing all this retarded hydraulic parking brake BS?  On my B-210 it made sense because we were using front calipers on the rear.  THESE HAVE CABLE CONNECTIONS!

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That is a knockoff Wilwood MC. Which is basically a copy of the 90s civic Clutch MC. But the Honda uses metric threads (one is m10, the other m8).

That probably 'splains why the one we bought for the B-210 was metric and this one is standard... wait, no.  No it doesn't.  Not really.  T'is kooky at the very least.

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That is a knockoff Wilwood MC. Which is basically a copy of the 90s civic Clutch MC. But the Honda uses metric threads (one is m10, the other m8).

 

That's funny. I totally forgot I had a Honda clutch master at the shop that uses metric fittings. And would probably fit right onto this.   :rofl:  :rofl:  :rofl:  :sneaky:

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That probably 'splains why the one we bought for the B-210 was metric and this one is standard... wait, no.  No it doesn't.  Not really.  T'is kooky at the very least.

 

No, what happened was that when we bought yours, I made 100% sure it was metric. 

 

When I bought mine, I didn't even bother to check. Just assumed they were all metric. 

 

:blush:

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I wonder how many sets of tires it took to do that video?

 

I can't imagine. Had to be quite a few...

 

In one of the other videos, it actually shows him completely shredding one...

 

I think you are going to be about 700hp and 2 drive wheels short!

 

As much as I hate to admit it, a little short on car control talent too...     :rofl:

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More new lines and fittings...

 

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Fittings ready for the master cylinder...

 

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Mocked up to see how I want them to run...

 

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Tried to run both lines out through the hole for the e-brake cable and just couldn't make it happen. Sadly, it's about 2mm too small for both. So I put one through and wrapped it in some fuel line for abrasion resistance and to seal up the hole. Then drilled a hole next to it, and shoved the other line (also rubber wrapped) through it. Then connected up the fittings underneath...

 

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After those were snugged up I went back to the inside and tightened up those fittings at what I think is a pleasing angle...

 

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That job finished, I moved onto the next thing on the list, installing the urethane ball joint boots...

 

I had been dreading this so I had put it off forever, but it turned out to be way easier than I thought. First one took about 20 minutes, second only took 10...

 

Best thing about having rose jointed control arms is that you undo the two bolts holding the steering knuckle to the strut, then take out the two bolts holding on the TC rod, and the control arm just drops straight down...   ^_^

 

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Pulled the cotter pin and nut, used a ball joint separator to pop the steering knuckle off, and looked inside to see brand new ball joints with completely destroyed boots...

 

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I had known for awhile that the previous owner installed new tie rods and ball joints but never greased either (never drove it that way obviously). So you may remember that awhile back I replaced the tie rod boots with urethane since they were also rotten. The kit I used for those also contained two ball joint boots...

 

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Even though they are for a 240Z, they fit straight onto the 1200 bits...

 

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Fitted them back up to the knuckles, and bolted it all back together. Then shot some grease into the joints...   :thumbup:

 

 

 

Thankfully, the list is getting pretty short...

 

1. Throttle cable - that's 90% done, just need to rebend the pedal a bit (too high) and then attach cable to the pedal

2. Bleed brakes - should be done next week

3. Finish exhaust - just need to build a hanger under the spare tire well

4. Install gauges - last BIG job

5. Clutch master seal - just went ahead and bought another new clutch master, hoping that will fix the leak

6. Battery box - need to remove a bracket in the trunk to mount that 

7. Battery cable - after the box is installed, run that underneath the car

8. Have a driveshaft built (not on the list, but still needs to be done)

 

After all that, it should just be fill'er up and go have some fun...   ^_^

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