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'73 1200 Coupe Project, aka Timmy


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Got the pedal out, rebent, and then back in. Then made an adjustable stop for the pedal so I could not only set the height, but also keep the pedal from banging into the wiring harness. Then hooked up the cable to it finally...

 

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Got the bracket cut off the floor and tried to install the box. Because of the rear inner tail light panel, it doesn't exactly fit the way I want it to...   :sneaky:

 

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Since I'm using a smaller battery...

 

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I'm going to shop around and try to find a smaller box that will nestle into the corner better...   :thumbup:

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  • 2 weeks later...

New smaller case versus old larger case...

 

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Fits much better. Narrow enough to get it tucked all the way up into the corner. So much awesomer...

 

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Should have it bolted down and have the cables ran next week. Then it's on to installing the gauges and bleeding the brakes...   :thumbup:

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  • 1 month later...

Positive battery cable ran from the starter, along the driveshaft tunnel, then up through vent tube hole in floor...

 

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Cable was completely wrapped in the plastic tubing you see on top of the fuel cell there, then wrapped in tape. Don't want to rub a hole in it...

 

Attached it to the old false floor mount to keep it from flopping around...

 

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Tim helped me out and installed the negative cable, grounding it through the rear seat belt mounting hole...

 

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Still need to run a short negative cable from the block to the frame. Will do that next week, then try bleeding the brakes...     :thumbup:

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Still need to run a short negative cable from the block to the frame. Will do that next week, then try bleeding the brakes...     :thumbup:

No need for that. Your throttle cable will act as a ground strap (once or twice).

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No need for that. Your throttle cable will act as a ground strap (once or twice).

And there's all that water in the cooling system... might need to add some salt to make it a better conductor though.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Been in a bit of a slump on this lately, but will get banging on it soon...

 

Did do a little more work on the battery cable routing yesterday. And finally fixed something that's been nagging me for awhile. Every time I shut the driver's door, the handle rattles. Took the door apart and found out that the nuts holding the handle on were only finger tight. Tightened those up, now no more rattle. That would have been annoying on the test drive...

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  • 4 weeks later...

Finally nutted up and ordered a TS rear spoiler from Pit Road about 3 weeks ago. So if you want my current one, speak up now...   B)

 

Came in the post today! Much excite!

 

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It is this style...

 

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How much?

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Still need to file on the sides a bit to get them to match the shape of the quarter panel better, but she's on there...

 

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Six stainless bolts across the top and six on the bottom. May seem like overkill, but it's a little flexible and I wanted it to draw up nice and tight. After filing the sides, I'll give it a good finish sanding and drop it off at the paint shop to be color matched.  :thumbup:

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Specificity is important.  B)

 

$50? It's not perfect, but it's in decent shape. It is the same one that FutoFab is about to start offering new, if you'd rather wait for theirs?

 

But I'm guessing theirs will be $150-200, so...

I'll take it, My car isn't perfect, lol, let me know how much to ship to 80013, and I'll paypal the money to you.

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Side edges reshaped to match the quarter profile. Came out nice, and I can just slide a business card between the quarter and spoiler.

 

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And the trunk still closes with just one finger...  :thumbup:

 

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After that I took the spoiler off and cleaned it up so I can drop it off at the paint shop this week...    :thumbup:

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I got it back up on jack stands and started looking at the driveshaft situation. With a 63A dogleg trans and 510 diff, I basically need a 510 driveshaft that is 6" shorter. Which I do not have and cannot find. 

 

I do happen to have a spare 620KC driveshaft, though...   ^_^

 

After confirming it would bolt up at the back, and work well at the front, I split it in half...

 

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At this point, my plan was to take both pieces to the driveshaft shop, have the front and rear bits cut off, a new tube made of the appropriate length, and off we go. But something happened in the middle of that plan... 

 

To see how long I needed the new tube to be, I took the rear half of the driveshaft and bolted it up at the diff. Then when I lifted it into position to measure it, I noticed the tube on the back half of the driveshaft is already EXACTLY the right length.  :lol:

 

So actually, all I need to do is swap out the yoke on the leading edge of the rear half (remove the carrier bearing flange and swap on the input flange). Then it'll bolt straight into the car.   :thumbup:

 

I will probably take it to the driveshaft shop anyway so they can go ahead and install new joints and check the balance on the tube. 

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