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Everything posted by Dguy210

  1. I've yet to actually see a gen2 in the wild. Just the gen1 (lightly used) at my old LGS in the Glock 19 mags I believe. Honestly, Glock 17 or the Beretta 92 and I'd probably have bought it as I already have both. Ugh, might have to move it on to the to buy list.
  2. I've almost bought one of those a couple times. Just couldn't quite bring myself to splash down the cash for it. I've heard the latest gen has some breakage issues. Might still pick one up in the future still, it definitely fits my odd gun need.
  3. Well as I have a love for old weird firearms, I recently found a 1920 Remington Model 10-A at what seemed like a decent price. Have it on hold as it was 5 minutes before closing. Edit: Now mine. In great shape too. 30" full choke, bluing and wood are in extremely good shape and it appears to function properly. Given the age I'll probably use it more of as a display piece then something I'm going to use often though. Will likely do a fire test with a light load from distance just to check function.
  4. This so much. Even on relatively easy to assemble low-cost to high-profit items it can be hard to make a decent wage. Also, sometimes you get less than happy feelings if you give someone a good deal or extra parts just to watch them flip it for a quick buck. Turning hobby time into a minimum wage job with responsibilities is just not how most people want to relax. Thanks for all the stuff you made over the years Mike, I even have one of your 1200 brake adapters I bought a few years ago, I might even get around to installing it at some point.
  5. Also, just because I really like Sabaton.
  6. I can't tell if you've checked this yet or not, but you should have a short piece of rubber fuel line between the gas tank and the fuel lines, this can fail causing a blockage. Wouldn't hurt to change either way too. Usually pretty easy to change and it lets you check the metal fuel lines isolated from the tank to see if that is the restriction. You can also use this to basically blow air straight into the tank to try and clear a pickup blockage, might want to pop gas cap off first though.
  7. Got removed. Updated link because Tom Waits
  8. Another debt they owe, or lest you forget, they are also Canadian:
  9. The 75 and later B210 uses an H150, I ran a 510 sedan driveshaft for my B210 63a swap with later 77 rearend. The H150 uses a 45 x 54 mm with an inner circle of 57 mm. As far as I know the R160 and wagon flanges are the same as swapping a sedan driveshaft into a wagon is done when using the longer 5 speed. Only the B110 and 74 B210 use the smaller flange for the H145. However, I am seeing some conflicting data online on the H190 as having a 50x60 mm flange (maybe different non-510 wagon axle), so I'm going to go measure mine when I can to confirm. Edit: Crawled under the car and measured mine and it appears to be 45x54.
  10. So that means you could use any 510 manual driveshaft then, not just goon. Or you could even use a 75' or later B210 automatic driveshaft.
  11. Check out their 2014 Good Company album also.
  12. Can you explain why you require the wagon driveshaft over the sedan? I have a H190 in my 1200 and a stumpy trans the same length as the 63 series (which I have in my B210) and by my measurements you should need a shorter than sedan length driveshaft due to the slightly longer H190 housing. I thought I would be needing to get my stock 510 sedan (similar to B210 auto driveshaft) shortened. So I would be really interested to know how the wagon driveshaft will fit? Or is this with the assumption that it will be shortened, in which case why does it need to be a wagon driveshaft then? What am I missing here? Edit: As far as I am aware the 510 manual driveshafts vary in length not in spline or rear mount setup. From some searching: The stock 2dr and 4dr sedan driveshaft is 42 & 9/16th or 42.5625" The stock goon is 48 & 7/8ths or 48.875
  13. Datsun Guy with a B210 = DGUY210, a name I came up with long before Ratsun for some other forum. But also those letters also happen to be part of my name too so it had some relevance.
  14. The B210 front suspension is extremely similar to that of a 510's with only very minor differences. Short answer is pretty much all the 510 front suspension stuff works with a B210. When it comes to finding B210 stuff, I've found thinking of the B210 as a short 510 wagon helps. Note: B210 only! The 120Y is very different.
  15. The mechanical fuel pump is relatively robust and unlikely to fail spontaneously. I'm not saying it might not have gone bad, but I would consider that lower on the probability list, especially as they tend to leak rather than just fail. Most likely would be a blockage in the fuel line. An easy way of blowing it out I've found is to use a piece of gas hose hooked to the metal line and a standard tire air inflator. Basically, put the longer gas hose on the metal line and then use the tire inflator with your hand and hold it on the fuel line to push air into the tank and blow out the crap. You can test the pump itself by throwing some gas line into a container with some gas and hooking it up to the pump and pulling off the line to the carb and crank the engine and see if any gas comes out.
  16. Sweet. I run uncut also so this is great.
  17. Per what Datzenmike says is correct. I actually did NOT adjust my steering box for this reason and that with the other bits replaced I didn't really feel like it needed to be messed with. However, I have also had the car for 20 years and I'm the second owner so I know what abuse it has been through and what maintenance it has had. I agree with Tom1200 I suspect the Idler arm is a large part of it for slop, I did my balljoints mostly as I was already under there replacing stuff and my boots were completely shot. If you get into to replacing major bits of your suspension I strongly suggest measuring the lengths of anything attached to a joint that is adjustable before you take it apart. I was lazy and just used a set of clamps to measure and then adjust the replaced pieces to the same length to get the adjustment in the right ballpark to do a realignment.
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