mklotz70 Posted October 10, 2009 Report Share Posted October 10, 2009 I'll try to look at a 320 schematic and check the wiper stuff. As for the starter....it won't care about neg or pos ground....it will still turn the same direction. Quote Link to comment
purple Posted October 11, 2009 Report Share Posted October 11, 2009 I would not fix it and just crank it! You're not gonna keep this mill in the long run and I heard it's not that hard compaired to other hand crankers. Just have fun. Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted October 11, 2009 Report Share Posted October 11, 2009 pushstart the bitch just to see if she fires :D Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted October 11, 2009 Report Share Posted October 11, 2009 Quick check of the 320 schematic does confirm what Dave said about the wiper motor getting a constant 12v with the ground being switched. Quote Link to comment
Rubberman Posted October 12, 2009 Report Share Posted October 12, 2009 Here's a 1960's? T-15 motor on ebay. Looks similar to yours fisch. http://cgi.ebay.com/Antique-Datsun-Engine-T-15-1960s_W0QQitemZ140351803319QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item20ad9e8fb7&_trksid=p4999.c0.m14 Quote Link to comment
fisch Posted October 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2009 Dude that thing is crazy cool! I wonder what it came from? I've never heard of a T-15! Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted October 12, 2009 Report Share Posted October 12, 2009 Never heard of Datsun T engine. Isn't that just an E1 engine? Quote Link to comment
purple Posted October 12, 2009 Report Share Posted October 12, 2009 I'm thinkin J15 out of the fork lift. Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted October 12, 2009 Report Share Posted October 12, 2009 did ya push start this thing yet man with them 5.whatever gears it should be easy to push start this thing Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted October 12, 2009 Report Share Posted October 12, 2009 Common Bonvo... It probably has no working brakes. I dont want to see a nice Datsun ruined. Quote Link to comment
fisch Posted October 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2009 HA not yet Bonvo! This thing doesn't have a clutch slave on it yet! But I did use my home made crank and try to get a compression test. Unfortunatly hand cranking alone wasn't getting a read, so I hooked up a DeWalt drill to the crank! REST ASSURED I disconnected the battery and removed all the spark plugs and even the distributor cap for good measure. This worked great! Engine turned real smooth. No grinding noises. Got a read of 120psi on one cylinder, but by the time I got to the second, the home made crank broke. Guess copper tubing is not the best thing to make a crank out of. But it is what I had on hand. Tomorrow I am off the the hardware store to get some 1/2" rod. So hopefully we will get a full read! My budddy Joe running the drill crank! Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted October 12, 2009 Report Share Posted October 12, 2009 HA not yet Bonvo! This thing doesn't have a clutch slave on it yet! But I did use my home made crank and try to get a compression test. Unfortunatly hand cranking alone wasn't getting a read, so I hooked up a DeWalt drill to the crank! REST ASSURED I disconnected the battery and removed all the spark plugs and even the distributor cap for good measure. This worked great! Engine turned real smooth. No grinding noises. Got a read of 120psi on one cylinder, but by the time I got to the second, the home made crank broke. Guess copper tubing is not the best thing to make a crank out of. But it is what I had on hand. Tomorrow I am off the the hardware store to get some 1/2" rod. So hopefully we will get a full read! My budddy Joe running the drill crank! that works to lol hook everything up and pull the driveline and start it that way just to see if she runs Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted October 12, 2009 Report Share Posted October 12, 2009 Very sweet Scott! You'll be able to start it with that! No need to disconnect the driveline.....just make sure it's in neutral. 120psi sounds promising :) Quote Link to comment
JoeyB Posted October 12, 2009 Report Share Posted October 12, 2009 HA not yet Bonvo! This thing doesn't have a clutch slave on it yet! But I did use my home made crank and try to get a compression test. Unfortunatly hand cranking alone wasn't getting a read, so I hooked up a DeWalt drill to the crank! REST ASSURED I disconnected the battery and removed all the spark plugs and even the distributor cap for good measure. This worked great! Engine turned real smooth. No grinding noises. Got a read of 120psi on one cylinder, but by the time I got to the second, the home made crank broke. Guess copper tubing is not the best thing to make a crank out of. But it is what I had on hand. Tomorrow I am off the the hardware store to get some 1/2" rod. So hopefully we will get a full read! My budddy Joe running the drill crank! And yet... I get NO CREDIT for the drill idea. Scott, Scott, Scott...:fu: Quote Link to comment
fisch Posted October 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2009 And yet... I get NO CREDIT for the drill idea. Scott, Scott, Scott...:fu: Ha! But I used the photo of you cranking rather than the photo of me Joe! So you are the poster boy for the whole episode! That's something , right?:lol: Quote Link to comment
fisch Posted October 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2009 Ok, armed with a new improved drill crank design, (essentially a steel 3/8 tube with the 't' cross point) we got the cold compression test. Man that DeWalt was smoking a bit though! Essentially back to front was 115, 115, 120, 115 all give or take as I only have the push and hold compression tester. That is actually just as good as my 521. And actually the 521 has a cylinder that only hits 100 so the '59 is better. Also, I don't know how much of a difference it makes, but the '59 is a 'destroked' design. So I am not sure how that would effect compression. The second thing I fixed was a little broken wire inside the distributor. Was the inner wire from the coil poll to the fixed half of the points. Now when I open and close the points, continuity between the two shuts on an off as I believe it shoud. I was actually contemplating crank starting it! BUT found a temporary hold up. The PO had tried to use 3 modern spark plug wires in the dist cap. This is the fixed wire design, where these set screws pierce the insulation of the wire inside the cap to make contact. Well, needless to say, you can't pierce modern wires. They are almost all insulation and actually have a surpprisingly thin insulated wire inside. The piercing point seems to just push that little wire aside rather than piercing it. So I need some old fashioned spark wires. Other than these things. It just might fire! Thanks for all the help today Joe! Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted October 12, 2009 Report Share Posted October 12, 2009 Great compression numbers. Sounds like a runner to me :D Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted October 12, 2009 Report Share Posted October 12, 2009 see if an l series distributor cap will work if ti does then you can use modern wires Quote Link to comment
purple Posted October 13, 2009 Report Share Posted October 13, 2009 Yes try the 521 cap and wires. My caps from the J look the same as my caps from the C and I have both styles in my J parts. I know many makes of vehicles back then used the same cap and rotor. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted October 13, 2009 Report Share Posted October 13, 2009 the '59 is a 'destroked' design. So I am not sure how that would effect compression.The C1 engine (Datsun 1000) is said to be destroked, because it was based on the Nissan-built Austin A50 engine which was 1.5 liters. For the smaller Datsun car, they re-engineered the engine design to use a shorter stroke to reduce swept volume to 1.0 liter. It doesn't affect compression, but the piston dish and head combustion chamber does. That compression reading is excellent. More important than the absolute number (i.e. different gauges can read different) is the fact that the reading are essentially the same on all four cylinders. Is the engine still good after all these years? It is said that Nissan sent word to Austin that they couldn't match the cast iron specification for the engine block. Austin replied back that it was OK to use the better grade cast iron that was available in Japan at the time. They couldn't match the lesser quality of British cast iron! Quote Link to comment
fisch Posted October 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2009 The C1 engine (Datsun 1000) is said to be destroked, because it was based on the Nissan-built Austin A50 engine which was 1.5 liters. For the smaller Datsun car, they re-engineered the engine design to use a shorter stroke to reduce swept volume to 1.0 liter. It doesn't affect compression, but the piston dish and head combustion chamber does. That compression reading is excellent. More important than the absolute number (i.e. different gauges can read different) is the fact that the reading are essentially the same on all four cylinders. Is the engine still good after all these years? It is said that Nissan sent word to Austin that they couldn't match the cast iron specification for the engine block. Austin replied back that it was OK to use the better grade cast iron that was available in Japan at the time. They couldn't match the lesser quality of British cast iron! Thanks for letting me know if destroking would effect compression! I had no idea. Heh, what I read about the difference between the nissan engine and the British one was that the Nissan one didn't leak oil! I guess the joke was, 'How do you know when Austin needs more oil? When the engine stops leaking!' This news is promising, and a good sign to keep pushing forward with this engine to satisfy my curiosity. Quote Link to comment
Dime Dave Posted October 13, 2009 Report Share Posted October 13, 2009 Try some solid core wires. They used to make actual wire core spark plug wires. NAPA used to sell a straight boot, steel wire core set that you cut to length and installed your own ends for the distributor. I used these on a Datsun racecar with points, back in the day. Best I can find looking thru the NAPA on-line catalog is: http://tinyurl.com/yg46nz4 Quote Link to comment
denveratsun Posted October 14, 2009 Report Share Posted October 14, 2009 Yep...I had to build my own wire set for the Simca and it was an "in-stock" NAPA item...lengths of solid core wire that I had to cut and trim to fit. They turned out pretty good...should be perfect for your application as well...plus...CHEAP!:D Here is a pic...not because it helps you make a choice on plug wires, but just cause this thread needs another picture:lol: My 1.3 Flash motor might even be pretty similar in size. Quote Link to comment
ezcruiser Posted October 19, 2009 Report Share Posted October 19, 2009 Found you a Chilton's Service manual! 1958-1968 Chilton's Datsun Repair Manual Quote Link to comment
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