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Everything posted by mklotz70

  1. mklotz70

    NM 521

    You can find those at Home Depot in the hardware aisle. Boring fact for the day.....the locking fuel doors with a finger pull bump were not the factory version....they were done at the dealer or elsewhere. The factory locking door did not have a finger pull bump.
  2. posting to follow. :)
  3. Did you ever get these installed? I'm curious how they fit.
  4. All the hubs...620, 720, and HB will all interchange. The only real difference is the diameter of the nose and which rims they'll fit in. Did you look at the pics of the rotors on the page I linked? If you think those parts are frontier, they're most likely early frontier, which would make them the same as the HB........from what I can tell. You seem to know that they're frontier parts.....so do you know what year? The rotor is probably the only part that may be different......take it to a local parts store and compare it to a new one before you buy it. The ball joint tapers are all the same.
  5. rockauto.com is a great resource for looking up this kind of info. According to them, all the '98 and up Frontier calipers were two piston. The rotors and calipers from 12/85 thru 1997 are the same. After '94, RA just lists "Pickup" and doesn't call it a Frontier until '98. They also don't call it a D21 after '94. 11/85 and older were 720....the calipers are the same but the rotors had a shorter top hat. I can't see the top hat in this pic very well, but they look like they have the taller hat. I have pics on this page that will show the differences and the year breakdowns for 620/720/HB rotors. http://www.bluehandsinc.com/hub-info.html If you're looking to swap these onto a ball joint 620, they should be fine.
  6. Sounds about right more than it sounds familiar. lol It's been quit some time. I'm sure more people than I remember have been over here for one reason or another. Glad to see you're back on ratsun again. :)
  7. In the states, back then, the date on the title was the year it was sold. If it was made 9/69, it would have taken a month or two to arrive in FL and probably sold after the first of the year....so it's a '69 titled as a '70. Mike already pointed out some of the "tells" that let us know it's a '69. :)
  8. Your memory is better than mine Aaron.......what did you come over for....maybe that will jog it. lol :)
  9. mklotz70

    NM 521

    The pin you're referring to is the same diameter for both...brake and clutch...... 5/16 or 8mm. It's actually 8mm, but if you can't find a metric one, the 5/16 is close enough. 8mm + .31496 and 5/16" = .3125 Did you check the pedal height from the floor as spec'd in the FSM? Could be your pedal is set too low. If you got a factory replacement, then it came with a non-adjustable push rod.....right? It's the captured type with the mushroom head on it. I'll be really surprised if it's not. Any scrap yards near you? You can get a pin from almost any older datsun....probably almost any Asian import.
  10. mklotz70

    NM 521

    Thanks Matt. :) I have lots of them on hand. Oilspot, what m/c are you running? If you're running stock, then the push rod has a mushroomed head and is captured behind a clip. My new push rods will NOT work with the stock m/c. If you're running a later m/c, where did you get the push rod? If it's one from the scrap yard, then refer to the measurements I show in the thread I'll post a link to below. When you adjust the push rod, you'll want a tiny amount of play.....which I think you already mentioned. Make sure the pedal is set to the correct height above the floor board....dims are in the FSM. The return spring needs to be in place too. here's some info from when I was figuring out the push rods.
  11. So true and I completely agree. It's why I'm switching my 311 brake kit away from Volvo calipers.
  12. Had to read what I wrote again....too funny!!! :)
  13. The tie rod taper is the super common 7 deg taper. At least it's referred to as that.....it's technically just a hair over 7deg, but it's the same as ford and definitely chrysler and of course....all of nissan. I haven't played much with chevy, so I'm not sure. It's not just the angle that matters, it's where it "seats", too......so even if it's the same taper, the ream may still be needed. They also have shims if the female hole is a bit big and I've also see taper adapters. I've thought about making them, but haven't had a real need to yet. Just pulled from the internet for clarity...... Typically you'd have 1.5" per foot (7°) and 2" per foot (10°) as the most common automotive tie rod and ball joint tapers
  14. mklotz70

    NM 521

    It goes between the bearing and the wheel seal as a spacer. It was used to make sure the seal wasn't seated in too far. Most have been lost or removed over the years. If you take note of where the seal is in relation to the end of the hubs before you remove it....then put the new seal in that same amount, you won't need the spacer. As seal manufactures varied the width of the seals, I'm sure those were left out on purpose at times. It's item number 5 in the pic.
  15. I thought about starting another thread, but there's already a lot of info in this one, so I'll dump everything here. I bought a set of left and right outer tie rod assemblies back in June. They've been sitting on my bench, waiting for me to take these pics and post them. There is definitely a left and right. I took a bunch of pics of the ones I have with some of the purchasing info. I've ordered from Kentigo in Mexico several times before. I decided to put these all on my photobucket account. Had it just been one or two pics, would have just uploaded them here. As for the angles at each end.....if you're running stock ride height, then the angles are a lot more necessary than if you've lowered the front suspension. I've ordered a set of these to check with my ball joint conversion. The bar in the center would be a lot easier/cheaper to create in a shorter/longer version than it is with the HB tie rods. Here's the page with the info I have for the tie rod setups I've used with the ball joint conversions. I don't recall the thread size/pitch, but it might be possible to find an existing turnbuckle that is longer. I needed shorter. Midwest Control Products would be a good place to start looking for one if needed. http://www.bluehandsinc.com/ball-joint-infoparts.html
  16. mklotz70

    NM 521

    If I remember right, there's a reinforcement bracket/plate behind the backing plate that the studs also go through....plus any flat and or lock washers.
  17. The rubber bushings(#8) have shown up on ebay several times. You should be able to look at the mechanism and it's pieces and see where the slop is. There's no easy way to make any kind of short shifter for it......at least not one that would be affordable. lol
  18. Just FYI....the two click function is a feature of all bear claw latches. It's a safety feature. It's still on new cars. :)
  19. When the door is fully closed and latched, does the door skin sit flush with the body panels?
  20. mklotz70

    NM 521

    Haven't read all the comments...... The factory carbs are great if they're done right and aren't worn out. The best running L-series engine I had at one point had a Hitachi on it. More torque and off idle response than a weber....by a mile! Typically, the Hitachi's are completely worn out at the throttle shaft bushings. If you can feel any wiggle in it, it's bad. You can spray carb cleaner or brake cleaner at the bushings while it's idling.....if the idle changes, they're bad. Biggest problem with the weber is they get tuned the same as the hitachi and that is NOT the correct way to do it. I don't have time to explain it all and I've posted it before....somewhere......but the goal with the weber is to get the butterfly as closed as possible and still run....then adjust the air mix.....if it speeds up, adjust the butterfly more closed to where it barely runs....chugs like a tractor....do this until there no change with the air mix. Close the air mix until the idle starts to drop.....open it back up a 1/4 turn? I think the tuning instructions found online say how much. If it's still chugging, you can now open the butterfly up a tiny amount. The hole for the vac signal to the dizzy is just above the butterfly, so if it's open even just a hair too much, you will get constant vac on that hole(and dizzy) and your off idle wil suck.
  21. have you checked the factory manual for the adjustment? http://www.bluehandsinc.com/manuals.html Maybe Mike and Charlie will remember....there was a swap at one point......Ranger door seals?? They made the door do that when they were used. Maybe the PO used those on your truck.
  22. mklotz70

    NM 521

    Oilspot and I measured actual tires......your chart was made by someone. The info I dug up supports the dimensions Oilspot and I have....ours are actually a bit small. I found two sites that list the 6.00-14-8PR LT tires. The 521 manual shows that the rears are the 8PR(8ply rating) and the fronts are only 6PR. Both sites list their tires of this size at 680mm overall diameter......which is 26.77" (26 3/4"). Tire Rack's site shows the 6.00-14 from 1965-1970 converts to 175/65R14. The line below that shows this size in previous years and gives different "current" sizes. 6" is only 152mm.....so the 175 listings are already wider, but at 70% sidewall height(times 2 plus the 14" rim only comes to 600mm....or 23.6"). A 175/80R14 would come in about 25", so maybe a 185/80R14 would be the closest....if they even make them. ***I just created a page on my site with this info to make it easier to find/reference later. http://www.bluehandsinc.com/misc-pics.html
  23. mklotz70

    NM 521

    in reference to the factory tires.....here's a pic of the height of a factory bias ply tire. http://www.bluehandsinc.com/misc-pics.html
  24. mklotz70

    69 Datsun 521

    There are other places to get manuals online, but this will get you started. http://www.bluehandsinc.com/manuals.html
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