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Dime Dave

Senior Member
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About Dime Dave

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 01/23/1957

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    New Hampshire
  • Cars
    Datsuns and Nissans, Many
  • Interests
    Road racing
  • Occupation
    Owner of FutoFab

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  1. Dime Dave

    New owner of 520

    The A series engines are nearly bulletproof and would make a great swap. They also made an A15 which might have a bit more torque. The killer will be finding a 5 speed. These were gobbled up by the Midget/Sprite owners for 5 speed conversions. The gearbox to look for would be a B210 dogleg 5 speed. These are 63 series and don't fit well in the Spridget tranny tunnels. I have been looking at doing a swap in my V520 . I've been looking at the CA18DE RWD engine. These come up at JDM engine importers quite often. I just can't find any info on the overall length. I believe they are slightly shorter than an L series engine. I was also thinking of the VG30E, which looked to be maybe an inch shorter than an L motors. It would be tight, but it sure would be a hot rod that AC could be added onto without any lag.
  2. Dime Dave

    The Mitty @ Road Atlanta

    I was in the outer paddock and didn't get too much time in the infield. The car handled well and with a 1.6l engine I was running with the smaller bore Group 2 cars. On track, photo by Gary Savage
  3. Dime Dave

    15x8 0 Offset Watanabe

    The 15x7 +12 fits on an S30 Z car. They clear the suspension just fine. The inner edge of a 15x8 +0 will sit at about the same position as the 15x7 +12 inboard lip does. IE you shouldn't have any issues at the suspension with your 15x8 +0 wheels. The traditional "best fit" on an S30 Z car is a 15x7 +0 wheel. The outer lip on the 15x8 +0 will be outboard of the "best fit" wheel by roughly 1/2". This, depending on the tire cross section and may create a some fender rub. My guess is you would not want to use over a 215 section width tire. And be prepared to roll the fender edge if needed. Enjoy your new mail order bride(s).
  4. Dime Dave

    Are ZCarDepot Patch Panels Any Good?

    Looks like a Wolf Steel / Alfa Parts patch panel. Z car Depot Image Wolf Steel / Alfa Parts patch panel image. I question if it will cover the area you need it to. As to quality, I'll let those that have used them reply. FutoFab has full 2d ($650) & 4d ($480) quarters in stock (not listed on website). Send me an email if interested.
  5. Dime Dave

    510 rear springs / roadster guys

    Here is another alternate. Buy a 3" ID offroad coilover spring and cut it in half with a fiber cut-off wheel. For an 800# spring rate you buy a 400# spring. They come in 18" lengths, 9" when cut in half. Just add a spacer to adjust the ride height. The rates are in 50# increments from 400 to 700 plus 200, 300 & 800 rates (double that when cut). Summit Racing has Eibach Springs at $100/ea https://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/eibach-coilover-springs?SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending&tw=eibach&sw=Eibach%20Coilover%20Springs&N=4294862828%2B4294862721
  6. Have you checked the droop at the rear? If the shocks are limiting droop it will create some really bad over crest issues. My 1200 has a panhard rod and is quite stable. It might be something to consider. Also try to reduce some of the oversteer. Having a stable car will make it more comfortable to drive and that in itself generally reduces lap times. You can't hit the apex of a turn on every lap if the car is twitching all over the track. The more stable a car feels the more repeatable you can drive it. When you can repeat the proper line thru a turn every time, the faster you will drive the car. Most of the fast drivers are very smooth. If the car is stable, you can work on being smooth. It's hard to be smooth when you are always sawing at the steering wheel to keep the rear end from passing you.
  7. Tom, As a guy who also likes oversteer, I'd say you have a little too much based on the video. It appears to be two things happening, oversteer and some suspension movement that is “steering” the car over crests and in compression sections. You can see the car moving around under you at these vertical transition points. One thing that might help your general oversteer condition is more roll stiffness at the front, either a stiffer sway bar or stiffer springs. Or less roll stiffness in the rear, softer springs and/or less bar. Another thing is the rear ride height looks like it could come down some. If you can lower the rear center of gravity, this may help as well. You mention that the car has a panhard rod. If it is height adjustable, it can also be used to adjust the car's handling balance by changing the rear roll center height. If you lower the panhard rod, it lowers the rear roll center. This increases the roll center to center of gravity moment arm length. By doing this it effectively reduces the rear roll stiffness and will help reduce oversteer. Leaf rear springs can also steer the rear of the car. As the spring arch flattens out under compression, it will lengthen the wheelbase of the car. In a corner one side will compress more than the other causing the axle to move further rearward on the loaded side, turning the axle so it is no longer at 90 degrees to the chassis. This will usually induce oversteer into the car by the axle driving the rear of the car into a larger corner arc. To limit this, use springs that are virtually flat (no arch) and limit the body roll as much as you can. Another factor with rear leaf springs is how the axle moves relative to the chassis. The rear axle in side view pivots around the forward leaf spring mount. If the rear spring eye is higher than the front, the axle will move forward as it is loaded in a bump condition. To reduce this you will need to have eyes of the spring, front and rear, at the same height off the road. By using a flat spring and having the leaf eyes at the same height off the ground it will reduce the amount of fore/aft axle movement during suspension travel. If the rear leaf eye is higher than the front you will need to have long rear shackles and thick lowering blocks to make the change. It may look strange, but it will help stabilize the fore/aft rear axle movement during suspension travel.
  8. Dime Dave

    510 Front Sump anti-sway bar

    I want to thank you guys for the constructive feedback. As yenpit points out the larger diameter bar makes it tough to install mounting brackets because of the narrow bolt spacing on the chassis. What we have done for future sales (based on this feedback) is include allen socket head bolts with clipped washers for the chassis mounting brackets. EastBay521, your bars shipped out last week and they have the new chassis mounting hardware included.
  9. Dime Dave

    Mattndew76 - 1200

    Mazdatrix says the 84-85 GSL-SE is a 4.076 ratio
  10. Dime Dave

    Mattndew76 - 1200

    The 79-85 RX7 GSL has solid discs and a 4x110 BC. The RX7 GSLE model was only made in 84-85 and uses a 4x114.3 BC. It had the larger 13B EFI rotary engine, pretty rare car.
  11. Dime Dave

    "Swamp thing" JBC enduro car!

    Those brake lines are so shiny, I figured they were new!
  12. Dime Dave

    "Swamp thing" JBC enduro car!

    I have a question. When you plumbed the engine bay brake lines, why didn't you delete the brake-fault idiot light switch?
  13. Dime Dave

    "Swamp thing" JBC enduro car!

    Heavy racing contact is a tough thing to deal with in a series, especially if it is ingrained in the group’s racing philosophy. Most every series has a level of racing contact that is acceptable. It can run from a spin the guy out to win mentality all the way to any contact, your fault or not, parks you for 13 months. How a race series is "managed" regarding contact has much to do with what is allowed by the officials. They will be the ones that determine what amount of contact is acceptable. As a new comer tto the series, you should have a conversation with the organizers to determine how they handle contact if it is a concern. Officials generally will work with the drivers to keep unacceptable contact out of the series. They do this based on the feedback (or lack of) that they get from the drivers. If contact escalates and drivers don’t complain, don’t expect the officials to reduce it. They have enough on their plate and will not go out looking for added work if no one is complaining. If the contact is unacceptable to you and the officials are not correcting it, you may need to work with other like minded drivers and reach out to the officials. Keep in mind that if the officials are not reacting to increased contact and no one is letting them know it is a problem, they will assume that the racers are willing to accept more racing contact. If you are looking to raise a concern to the officials, numbers matter. Concerns expressed by one driver/team may be passed over by officials as “whining” especially if there are no others and you are doing it multiple times. Your best bet for change is to find other drivers/teams that feel the same as you. You may be surprised that there are other folks feeling the same as you, but just don’t want to make any waves. When going to the officials, go as an organized group. Approach the officials in a calm and rational manner with your safety concerns. Do not make demands; just express concerns based on safety. You will have a better chance of creating change by letting them know it is more than just one driver/team that is concerned. For the best results, organize the group’s thoughts in advance. Appoint a representative for the group and have that individual approach the officials asking for a meeting with them and your group’s representatives (keep it small, 2-4 people). Maybe the group’s representative can catch the key official at the end of a driver's meeting and set up the meeting for later. You don’t want to bring this up unannounced at the driver’s meeting; it will put the officials on the defensive and likely end any possibility of change right there. If you can't find like minded drivers/teams or cannot get a meeting with the officials you may want to search out another series that better suites your racing style.
  14. Dime Dave

    510 Front Sump anti-sway bar

    Jeff, You mention that BRE ran their sway bar below the TC rods as a solution. These are still available thru DP Racing. I have one on my newest road race 510 (it came with it). The price on these are $465 but they will not work with a front sump engine.
  15. Dime Dave

    510 Front Sump anti-sway bar

    Low is as you suggest, a subjective dimension. I have used a standard configuration oversize bar on my hillclimb car without any issues. It is set-up with shortened struts (roughly 2") and runs old Datsun Comp road race rear springs. I would say it is 2-3" lower than stock. The images you posted show a car much lower than what I have personally run, so what has worked for me may not work as well for others with out a work around like you have done. This is the problem with questions like "Will it work on a lowered car?" Well yes it does on my lowered car, but if you are looking to run lower than what my car is at there may be issues such as you've pointed out and adjusted for. The other part of this issue is we generally run on 15" or larger wheels, which pushes the tire even higher into the wheel opening to maintain a lowered ride height. This makes the condition worse, especially when the cars were designed around 5.60x13 bias ply tires. I also have looked at placing the bar more forward (like under the radiator support). I haven't done all the math, but the bar diameter will need to be significantly larger than our 1.125" diameter due to the increased arm length. Maybe one of Speedway Engineering's 1 1/4" hollow bars would work, but I think you would need to bump up to their 1 3/4" NASCAR sway bars to have enough spring rate. If folks think $265 is too much, I'm not sure what they would think of the Speedway set-up. The Speedway 1 1/4" bar and arms is over $300 and that is w/o any hardware or mounts.

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