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Dime Dave

Senior Member
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About Dime Dave

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 01/23/1957

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    New Hampshire
  • Cars
    Datsuns and Nissans, Many
  • Interests
    Road racing
  • Occupation
    Owner of FutoFab

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  1. Yes they are. Basically everything at FutoFab.com that is in stock and can be ordered online with shipping to the continental US is part of our sale. The only exception is VTO wheels.
  2. If you haven't been to our website in awhile, please check it out. We continually add items (with more to come). Latest New and In-stock Items: - Datsun 510 Quarter Panels, 2d & 4d - Reproduction Interior Door Panels, 510, 240z & 280Z - High Performance 930 CV axles for Z cars. Designed for cars with high output turbo engines and V8 swaps
  3. Help us celebrate our 10th year in business. FutoFab started as hobby back in the 80's with 2 guys building rollcages for their buddies. In 2009, under owner Dave Patten's guidance, FutoFab became a legit, tax paying business. Please join us in celebration of our 10th Anniversary Celebration with our sale.
  4. F/A, I'd go with a Kirkey road race seat. The low back seat may be period correct, but it is nowhere near as safe as a seat with an integral headrest.
  5. Hey Dave, any chance of still getting a shift knob for my 620?



    1. Dime Dave

      Dime Dave

      what are you looking for?

      cost is $39 + $8 s&h in us = $47


      drop me an email at futofab@gsinet.net 


















  6. Dollars spent DOES NOT equal worth. Worth is the number on the check when you sell it.
  7. After some recent email correspondence I thought it might be prudent to offer a guideline for installing wheel studs. First, let's discuss the design of a wheel stud and fitment during their original installation. When first assembled, the hole in the hub / wheel flange has a smooth bore. For proper fit, the hole ID needs to be .006" smaller than the OD of the knurl on the stud. The stud is then pressed into the hub from the back side and the knurl actually deforms the ID of the hole in the hub. This deformation is what holds the stud in place and keeps it from rotating. Now what about replacing the studs. Wearing my vendor hat, I must say that wheels studs should always be pressed into place. The reality is you can do this fairly easily on the front hubs. Pressing in studs on the rear isn't really viable unless the rear axle shaft is removed. Generally rear wheel studs are "pulled" into place by putting the stud thru the wheel flange hole and drawing it into place by tightening a nut onto the stud. The problem with pulling a stud into the hole comes from over tightening the nut. Even though the hub has a pathway for the knurls to follow, it still can take a significant amount of strain to bottom a stud. The OE torque for a Datsun M12x1.25 stud is 58-65 ftlb. Our long studs are 10.9 grade and should be fine to 85 ftlb. If you exceed this torque rating it is possible to damage the stud. If you choose to pull in your new studs, watch how much torque you place on the stud.You should keep it below the rates above to assure the stud is not being damaged. DO NOT use an impact wrench! A 1/2" Dewalt impact wrench with a full charge will generate 185 ftlb of torque and will stretch a stud if you hammer on it long enough. Trust me, been there done that. If significantly over torqued, the stud will be structural compromised and may break. It could be when you bolt on your wheels or when you are happily cruising down the road. Please use caution when installing wheel studs. Improperly done, the results could be devastating.
  8. Dime Dave

    New owner of 520

    The A series engines are nearly bulletproof and would make a great swap. They also made an A15 which might have a bit more torque. The killer will be finding a 5 speed. These were gobbled up by the Midget/Sprite owners for 5 speed conversions. The gearbox to look for would be a B210 dogleg 5 speed. These are 63 series and don't fit well in the Spridget tranny tunnels. I have been looking at doing a swap in my V520 . I've been looking at the CA18DE RWD engine. These come up at JDM engine importers quite often. I just can't find any info on the overall length. I believe they are slightly shorter than an L series engine. I was also thinking of the VG30E, which looked to be maybe an inch shorter than an L motors. It would be tight, but it sure would be a hot rod that AC could be added onto without any lag.
  9. I was in the outer paddock and didn't get too much time in the infield. The car handled well and with a 1.6l engine I was running with the smaller bore Group 2 cars. On track, photo by Gary Savage
  10. The 15x7 +12 fits on an S30 Z car. They clear the suspension just fine. The inner edge of a 15x8 +0 will sit at about the same position as the 15x7 +12 inboard lip does. IE you shouldn't have any issues at the suspension with your 15x8 +0 wheels. The traditional "best fit" on an S30 Z car is a 15x7 +0 wheel. The outer lip on the 15x8 +0 will be outboard of the "best fit" wheel by roughly 1/2". This, depending on the tire cross section and may create a some fender rub. My guess is you would not want to use over a 215 section width tire. And be prepared to roll the fender edge if needed. Enjoy your new mail order bride(s).
  11. Looks like a Wolf Steel / Alfa Parts patch panel. Z car Depot Image Wolf Steel / Alfa Parts patch panel image. I question if it will cover the area you need it to. As to quality, I'll let those that have used them reply. FutoFab has full 2d ($650) & 4d ($480) quarters in stock (not listed on website). Send me an email if interested.
  12. Here is another alternate. Buy a 3" ID offroad coilover spring and cut it in half with a fiber cut-off wheel. For an 800# spring rate you buy a 400# spring. They come in 18" lengths, 9" when cut in half. Just add a spacer to adjust the ride height. The rates are in 50# increments from 400 to 700 plus 200, 300 & 800 rates (double that when cut). Summit Racing has Eibach Springs at $100/ea https://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/eibach-coilover-springs?SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending&tw=eibach&sw=Eibach%20Coilover%20Springs&N=4294862828%2B4294862721
  13. Have you checked the droop at the rear? If the shocks are limiting droop it will create some really bad over crest issues. My 1200 has a panhard rod and is quite stable. It might be something to consider. Also try to reduce some of the oversteer. Having a stable car will make it more comfortable to drive and that in itself generally reduces lap times. You can't hit the apex of a turn on every lap if the car is twitching all over the track. The more stable a car feels the more repeatable you can drive it. When you can repeat the proper line thru a turn every time, the faster you will drive the car. Most of the fast drivers are very smooth. If the car is stable, you can work on being smooth. It's hard to be smooth when you are always sawing at the steering wheel to keep the rear end from passing you.
  14. Tom, As a guy who also likes oversteer, I'd say you have a little too much based on the video. It appears to be two things happening, oversteer and some suspension movement that is “steering” the car over crests and in compression sections. You can see the car moving around under you at these vertical transition points. One thing that might help your general oversteer condition is more roll stiffness at the front, either a stiffer sway bar or stiffer springs. Or less roll stiffness in the rear, softer springs and/or less bar. Another thing is the rear ride height looks like it could come down some. If you can lower the rear center of gravity, this may help as well. You mention that the car has a panhard rod. If it is height adjustable, it can also be used to adjust the car's handling balance by changing the rear roll center height. If you lower the panhard rod, it lowers the rear roll center. This increases the roll center to center of gravity moment arm length. By doing this it effectively reduces the rear roll stiffness and will help reduce oversteer. Leaf rear springs can also steer the rear of the car. As the spring arch flattens out under compression, it will lengthen the wheelbase of the car. In a corner one side will compress more than the other causing the axle to move further rearward on the loaded side, turning the axle so it is no longer at 90 degrees to the chassis. This will usually induce oversteer into the car by the axle driving the rear of the car into a larger corner arc. To limit this, use springs that are virtually flat (no arch) and limit the body roll as much as you can. Another factor with rear leaf springs is how the axle moves relative to the chassis. The rear axle in side view pivots around the forward leaf spring mount. If the rear spring eye is higher than the front, the axle will move forward as it is loaded in a bump condition. To reduce this you will need to have eyes of the spring, front and rear, at the same height off the road. By using a flat spring and having the leaf eyes at the same height off the ground it will reduce the amount of fore/aft axle movement during suspension travel. If the rear leaf eye is higher than the front you will need to have long rear shackles and thick lowering blocks to make the change. It may look strange, but it will help stabilize the fore/aft rear axle movement during suspension travel.
  15. I want to thank you guys for the constructive feedback. As yenpit points out the larger diameter bar makes it tough to install mounting brackets because of the narrow bolt spacing on the chassis. What we have done for future sales (based on this feedback) is include allen socket head bolts with clipped washers for the chassis mounting brackets. EastBay521, your bars shipped out last week and they have the new chassis mounting hardware included.
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