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My 1971 521


d.p

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Alright so went to start the truck today after being on the tender for like 4 days or so.  Truck would not start…it would try to turn over but very slowly. 
 

My voltmeter read like 13.x with the truck off and when starting it would drop down to 7.x and the shut off because it wasn’t getting enough power. 
 

I take the stupid tender off and have to use my battery charger and it’s ‘engine start’ mode to get the truck going. But once I do that it starts and dives fine.  So it’s almost like the battery on the tender is draining it?  I guess I’ll just leave it off the tender for a few days and see what it does.  

 

Before with the standard acid battery it never did this. It would always start even after sitting for awhile. 
 

 

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On 2/22/2023 at 12:44 PM, datzenmike said:

 

Use booster cables to a known good charged battery to eliminate your 'battery' as the cause of the slow turning of the starter. Your battery may be the problem and a new starter won't fix this.

 

How cold is it where you are? Oil may be too thick so install a block heater.

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3 hours ago, d.p said:

My voltmeter read like 13.x with the truck off and when starting it would drop down to 7.x and the shut off because it wasn’t getting enough power.

this number is a common reading. I think the COLD cranking amps on the battery is important.  I went back to a lead acid battery myself. I had red Optimas and gave up on them after I left the lights on a few times they never recovered.

 

be honest I think your starter is fine if you jumper with another car.

 

 

I got my starter from here but I think it was sent from California straight to my house. IMI.  Just note I never installed it as I have about 5 extra nissan boxed starters.. But  TSI was cheaper in price than anywhere else. I figured more of these would be used here on Ratsun. But only Bigtanker seemed to use these. Its actualy a good price for this type of starter.   I would get only 8months to 1.5 years on a daily driver (O rileys or Autozone starters)

http://tsimportedautomotive.com/gearreductionstarters.html

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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Thanks for that link but I don’t think my starter is the issue.  I’ll reach out to them and see what their selling for just so I know. 
 

 

I paid a grip for AGM this battery but if this continues I’ll go back to a lead acid.  I got no interest in having to hook up a battery starter everytime I want to drive it.  Plus this AGM weighs a fuck ton.  
 

 

Edited by d.p
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5 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Not cold enough. My brand new '76 B-210 would turn just 3 times and stop. Switched to 10w and installed a block heater.

 

Boost and see if better cranking or not.


Once I put a battery starter on it it will turn right over. 

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3 minutes ago, d.p said:

Fucker did it again this morning, it wouldn't start at all until I put it on the batter charger/starter.  I don't understand why it won't start on its own less than 24 hours after driving it a bunch? 

 

 

 

 

 


Battery is toast.  Your voltage gauge says it all.  Started at 12 volts and then it flashed 8.2 volts while cranking.    Check for parasitic drains too.

Battery quality has gone way south in the last few years.  AGM's are great and all but your car can't quite charge it right so you can't expect the best life.  Lead Aa

Edited by ShutterMeShort
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AGM batteries don't like to sit. I know that from experience. I've had them go bad with regular use too. Odyssey wouldn't even warranty the last one that went bad. The fact that you've got a tender on it tells me that you're one of the unlucky ones who's battery just gave up the ghost for no reason at all.

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Yeah don't know what the deal is with it. 

 

Put the battery on the charger for 45 minutes or so just now and it reads 12.xx with the truck off.  When running its right around 14.2-14.3 so what does that tell me?  That it can take a charge but will drain overnight?  I guess I can disconnect it tonight and see if there is something draining it.   

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2 hours ago, d.p said:

Yeah don't know what the deal is with it. 

 

Put the battery on the charger for 45 minutes or so just now and it reads 12.xx with the truck off.  When running its right around 14.2-14.3 so what does that tell me?  That it can take a charge but will drain overnight?  I guess I can disconnect it tonight and see if there is something draining it.   

That only tells you that your alternator and VR are working correctly. 

 

The battery has a bad cell. It reads the correct voltage, but you see a huge voltage drop when it sees any kind of load. The battery is toast. You can charge it for a week, but it won't fix a bad cell. And the truck runs fine after it's started because the alternator takes over once it's spinning.

Edited by mainer311
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On your 2nd vid

Once you got it started it seemed your cig volt meter was still low reading like 12 while running. then 13 for a sec before the vid stopped.

does it go up close to 14volts with no load like lights and heater? if yes then your charging system is fine then put a load on there with heater and lights and say 1200rpm and see what the volts are

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Yeah it will go to 14.2 or so and appears to charge fine and when driving around even with lights and shit it would only drop down to around 13.x or so.  But I just had the battery tested which it failed..said it has 106CCA vs 765CCA its supposed to have.  I submitted a warranty claim with Odyssey so will see where it goes.  

 

Fucking learned more about car batteries in the past couple days then I have my entire life.  

 

Lol

 

failed-agm.jpg

Edited by d.p
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