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About ShutterMeShort

  • Birthday 03/12/1984

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Bishop, CA
  • Cars
    1983 Nissan 720
  • Interests
    Cars, trucks, photography, and snowboarding!
  • Occupation
    Owner: Shorty's Speed Shop

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  1. NGK for sure. OEM whenever possible if you want reliability
  2. I'm looking for a KA24DE for my truck. I'm assuming the crank is toast?
  3. This is pretty awesome! I love a good sleeper. If your new pistons are raising the compression ratio I'd be very careful of your AFR and timing. Do you have a good way to monitor for knock? That's what will break ring lands every time. If oil pooling is consistent and oil pressure is low at idle I'd check that $300 turbo. Pull off a boost pipe and see if there's anything in there
  4. I just had a customer with a 720 who went through some water crossings and afterwards was experiencing a dead battery after a day or two. It was the alternator.
  5. 😍 HOLY COW! This will be amazing! Keep us posted on progress PLEASE!
  6. Oil pump phasing and distributor timing. Check it 100 times. Really easy to get the pump 180 degrees off making the distributor 180 degrees off. TDC compression or you will be 180 off. Valves on #1 should be closed.
  7. Thats a start! I just went through this with my friends truck I'm getting ready to pass CA emissions - carb had several issues (float level and idle cut no ground to start). As Mike stated - make sure that solenoid is working. Should have 12v on red wire with key on AND a solid ground. You can pop it out and remove the needle and spring and put it back in as a test - with the guts removed it will allow fuel to bypass and get into the idle circuit but it will probably diesel when you go to shut it off. Good way to check if it's operating - 12v, ground and clicking don't always mean it's working. Once you know you have fuel in your idle circuit, try lowering your idle speed. Your underhood VECI sticker will tell you your proper idle speed. Once you get it close, check your timing to make sure its not off too much as it can also effect idle speed. One trick I use for telling if it is rich or lean is bring it to the point of bogging and not running right and spray some brake or carb cleaner in. if it runs better then you are lacking fuel. If it stumbles worse then you have too much fuel or not enough air. It's not the best test but it can give you an idea of what direction to start looking in.
  8. I have family in McMinnville. My truck lived there for years before I took it over. My grandfather is a WW2 vet and was a docent at Evergreen for several years. It's a pretty incredible place!
  9. Well this escalated quickly! LOVE the front end set-up. Super clean work. Inspiration to get my project back on track...
  10. Nice find! Should be a fun one! Love a good diesel!
  11. 15x8 ProComp 69 wheels 205/50 R15 Nitto NeoGens Sorry I dont have a better side shot!
  12. With what you have there I'd take as much of the system apart as possible and really clean the lines. Spray with brake clean and use air to blow everything out. Put it back together and fill the system and bleed at least a full 32oz bottle of fluid through it. Dirt obviously can be really bad. Water compresses, can boil, lead to mold growth, and lots of other fun stuff. Seems excessive maybe but we are dealing with brakes... Let's stay safe. Let's also not have to tear it all apart again because you missed something! Let us know how it all goes! I see sooooo much bad brake fluid... it's the one fluid everyone seems to forget about
  13. Holy cow man.... The amount of work put into this project!!!! I bow to you! I really can't wait to see it finished! Soooo much metal work....
  14. definitely sounds like a carb adjustment issue. Compression is always worth checking before you pull you hair out!
  15. I applaud you on your efforts an results, Michelle! This is coming along so nicely!
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