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My 1971 521


d.p

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Fucking A thanks my dudes.  I actually found the missing nut so I am all set.  Heat,fan and all that shit works.  I guess my valve was stuck in the heat position for all these years.  When I went to test it all I was getting was cool air and I couldn’t figure out why.  I realized I have a working switch so switched to heat and it worked no problem. 
 

A way went to Home Depot tog eat some trees and woods to hide my trash cans.  
 

Truck runs like a top.  
 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Having been doing much with the Truck other than letting my son learn to drive on it.  Frist car he has ever driven is this fucker and he did great, only stalled once too.   I asked him he wanted the truck when he turned 16 and he said he didn't know what he wanted.   Even if he doesn't want it I got great pleasure out of seeing him drive it and him asking me if he can 'whip it' all the time now.  2

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1 hour ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

let him have the BMW its safer.

 


Without a doubt.  I think he will get his own safer car but I will let him drive the truck if he wanted to.  

 

 

Edited by d.p
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  • 2 weeks later...

When you turn the key and the fucker just clicks that’s the starter right?  I vaguely remember it when my other starter shit the bed.  Anyways went to start it and it turned over but didn’t start( take a couple tires after it’s been sitting then it just clicked.   About 5 minutes later it started right up.  
 

Someone give me a reason to buy a Troy Ermish starter.  

Edited by d.p
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54 minutes ago, d.p said:

When you turn the key and the fucker just clicks that’s the starter right?  I vaguely remember it when my other starter shit the bed.  Anyways went to start it and it turned over but didn’t start( take a couple tires after it’s been sitting then it just clicked.   About 5 minutes later it started right up.  
 

Someone give me a reason to buy a Troy Ermish starter.  

How long do you constanty crank it before giving the starter a rest....

What you described almost sounds like you are over heating the starter... 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Crashtd420 said:

How long do you constanty crank it before giving the starter a rest....

What you described almost sounds like you are over heating the starter... 

 

 


Maybe 3 seconds or so?  I mean I went to start it and it usually takes a couple turns of the key (holding it) along with me pumping the gas pedal to get it running. 

 

Today same thing but after two key turns it stopped trying to turn over at all. Just clicking while I held the key.   Then five minutes or so later it turned right over.  Battery is fine and got volts so I know it’s not that.  

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Costs nothing to find out which thing is causing this.

 

Clicking is the starter solenoid not getting enough start signal from the ignition switch. Now this could just be a low battery but if you use a booster cable from the positive terminal and directly touch the solenoid terminal and it starts every time then the signal was weak and you need a hot start relay.

 

If no change....

 

Use battery cables and clamp to the cables on your battery terminals. This is basically the same as a new or fully charged battery. If it works fine then your battery is low or bad. If it doesn't then it's possibly the cables or the starter. 

 

Shift the battery booster cables to the starter lug and a good ground on the engine block. If this fixes the problem then one or both of your battery cables are bad. Check the ground is clean and tight on the side of the head and the same on the starter lug.

 

If still bad then the starter is at fault.

 

 

 

Just order a 280zx or Maxima starter. They are gear reduction. Specially the '80 and up 280zx as they had to turn an over heated 2.8 liter turbo engine.

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I crank mine for a lot longer than that if it's been sitting a while, full choke & pumping the gas.  Never have an issue.  

You got a replacement battery not too long ago, right?  What is your voltage when running these days?  Got a pic of your battery terminals?  If they are those stupid wire clamp kind, those are trash

Edited by thisismatt
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I put a battery starter on the battery to no avail.  It didn’t help at all.  I’ll try on the starter and see if it makes any difference.  The truck did start eventually and started a couple more times when I got home 
 

Yes brand new battery and terminals are normal as far as I know.  Voltage is right around 13-12.x (drops a little when cranking) when I go to start it then around 14 driving around.   Nothing out of the ordinary there from what I can tell.  
 

I’ll order a new starter no problemo.   Is the Ermish one or the one hainz posted a link to worth ponying up for? 

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Those aren't the terrible ones I was referring to, so that's good.  Check the crimps for corrosion.  After I crimp I fill everything with solder so corrosion can't eat its way in. 

 

Battery should be charging above 13.25-13.5+ so you should be good there.  When the starter clicks is your volt meter still reading 12v?

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39 minutes ago, thisismatt said:

Those aren't the terrible ones I was referring to, so that's good.  Check the crimps for corrosion.  After I crimp I fill everything with solder so corrosion can't eat its way in. 

 

Battery should be charging above 13.25-13.5+ so you should be good there.  When the starter clicks is your volt meter still reading 12v?


Depends really.  At first yes but if it’s not turning over then it drops lower and lower (expected).  
 

 

36 minutes ago, six2ohyea said:

Awesome build! What wheels are on your truck?

Some 2 piece forged. Work, Lodio or something like that.  Got them from a guy in Poland awhile Ago. 

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Turning over is synonymous with cranking, so you're saying the engine isn't cranking/turning over at all and the battery voltage is dropping?  It shouldn't be dropping if the starter isn't turning and the engine isn't turning over.  Did you ever put an amp meter in series with the battery with everything off to see if you had a draw?

 

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On 5/8/2023 at 7:39 PM, d.p said:


Depends really.  At first yes but if it’s not turning over then it drops lower and lower (expected).  
 

 

Some 2 piece forged. Work, Lodio or something like that.  Got them from a guy in Poland awhile Ago. 

Did you paint/powder coat them? Is that how they came? 

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3 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Yes, if it's cranking and not firing, that isn't the starter. Unless the starter is so bad that it moves, but cranks really slowly.

 

It wasn't cranking at all, just rapid clicking...click click click click which leads me to believe it was the starter.  It wasn't turning over at all but eventually did.  

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  • 4 weeks later...

Trucks been starting without issue as of late. So not sure what happened that one day.  I needed an alignment and found out my passenger side toe was out by 2°.  Had the shop even out the center link and the tuck drives much better now. 

 

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I’d really like it to get the paint polished up but I’m afraid to touch it with anything. I had my wife’s car paint corrected and it turned out fabulous so I may see if I can get someone to do something similar with my truck.  
 

@mainer311 thread reminded me that wife got a new car.  She got a Mercedes GLC63  AWD twin turbo v8. 
 

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Edited by d.p
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  • 1 month later...

Does anyone know the thread/pitch and length of the rear diff studs?  Noticed the rear diff was leaking and looking at it one of the nuts was loose and would just spin. I got it off prying it with a screwdriver and socket but now I am stuck with a stripped stud.   I can most likely get it out but wondering if anyone knows what exactly I need to replace it with? 

 

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