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Everything posted by thisismatt

  1. Not saying this is the case, but as long as the cam lobes are oriented so that they aren't pushing on the rocker and don't interfere with your feeler gauge, then it really doesn't matter.
  2. 🤣 No, there is no market for them. The J series was not used in many vehicles, especially in the US.
  3. The only thing that happened is Democrats continued to be spineless kowtowers. It's not really surprising.
  4. That question is beyond me. I would look up the factory service manual (FSM). Pretty sure you can find it with a Google search
  5. It depends how long they've been torn and if they've gotten crap in them (dirt, water). The reason the whole axle usually gets swapped is because you have to pull it either way and it's easier to just put a new assembly in, so most people replace it. But there's good reason that reman axles are $80 and oem are $400. I've put reman axles on that clicked around turns from the get-go. That said, they're are a bit of a pain to service 😅
  6. Why are you changing the CVs? If the boots recently tore, I would consider cleaning, repacking, and new boots. OEM axles are a lot better than remanufactured in my experience...
  7. thisismatt

    My 1971 521

    I wouldn't do the white/black 'cause it will look nasty pretty quickly 🤷‍♂️ You have the right spacer on that fuel pump?
  8. Might pull the strikes and see what it does, ie does it close fully without resistance and if not, what's interfering? If it does close flush easily, adjust the strike location as needed.
  9. Did you or previous owner replace the door seals?
  10. thisismatt

    NM 521

    Put some Noalox or similar on those joints, same with the bulb housing contacts
  11. They forgot to mention that the current admin also wants the IRS to real-time monitor all your financial institutions...banks, PayPal, Venmo, etc. Every dollar in & out to make sure you're paying your fair share!
  12. thisismatt

    69 Datsun 521

    69 is going to be the j13 engine, not the l16. Not as much support for the J engine. As far as rust goes... The typical areas are floor boards, cab mounts, rockers, lower leg of the front fenders, as well as the top fender near the headlights, and across the front of the hood edge. Check the seam at the bottom corners of the windshield and at the seam where the fender connects right there. Crap likes to collect in that seam and rust it out. Also the obvious areas of the truck bed along the floor seam. Really everything else is pretty straightforward. Cracked dash is common. Dented rear bed corners is almost ubiquitous. Tailgates also seem to disappear or get creased from dropping onto the bumper.
  13. I imagine the correct answer is to measure the axial play and shim accordingly. The axle tubes probably vary slightly in length, and possibly the axles themselves.
  14. I know guys that still use them in the field a little bit, but it's just one more thing to haul around and I have other, more frequently used tools that take their place. I don't have the patience/desire to make things 100% by hand.. like hand cutting dovetails, no thanks
  15. I'm a carpenter, but I rarely use planes. I have a couple Lie-Nielsen's but they are pretty specialized versions...a butt mortise plane and a chisel plane.
  16. Fix it, or get one from a rhd market so it's had less use (as the passenger window).
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