My 1971 521

[mainer311]

@d.p Did the Troy Ermish oil pan brace fix your leak? I’ve got one too, although I don’t know if it’s my pan or the rear main.

[d.p]

Nah man, still leaks ever so slightly after sitting.   So more than likely not the pan but the rear main, buts not anywhere bad enough that I would take the engine out to replace it.  

[mainer311]

How much did you pay for your rear brake brackets?

[d.p]

$275.

[mainer311]

And also, can you confirm that the stuff you bought was for an early 90's Isuzu Trooper?

[d.p]

5 hours ago, mainer311 said:

And also, can you confirm that the stuff you bought was for an early 90's Isuzu Trooper?

Yes and I was told any of these would work:

Rotors, calipers, pads, and lines: 1989-1993 Isuzu amigo, 1988-1991 Isuzu Trooper, 1988-1995 Isuzu Pickup

 

I bought these specific calipers that came coated so no rusting which is cool. 
 

Cardone 19-B1191 and 19-B1190

 

and I pulled the residual valve out of my dual master and didn’t install a proportioning valve.  
 

 

 

[mainer311]

Word, homie.

[datzenmike]

You need a disc brake residual valve to keep the pads against the rotors. You may need a proportioning valve later because who knows what the rear bias is now with miss matched parts that were never intended to work together. The rears may lock sooner than the fronts.

 

 

[d.p]

28 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

You need a disc brake residual valve to keep the pads against the rotors. You may need a proportioning valve later because who knows what the rear bias is now with miss matched parts that were never intended to work together. The rears may lock sooner than the fronts.

 

 

[mainer311]

I plan on keeping the drum valve in there and seeing what happens.

[d.p]

5 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

I plan on keeping the drum valve in there and seeing what happens.

more than likely nothing lol. 

[mainer311]

Typical operating pressure of a disc brake is 1 ksi. A drum brake residual valve is typically 10psi. Fuck it.

Edited September 9, 2022 by mainer311

[Crashtd420]

They do sell the inline one....

Only like $20.... 

I believe stroffgren said you could even put it in the back just before the tee on the axle so you wont even see it... 

 

10psi residual valve on rear will create extra wear, drag and heat... 

[mainer311]

Hardly. The surface area of the rear piston can only be what? 2-3 sq-in? I'd rather not crack open the MC and have a mess everywhere if it's not needed. I'll probably put a prop valve in to tune the brakes, and leave the residual valve unless I have issues. Anything is better than the rear drums I have now, which lock up from time to time. 

[datzenmike]

4 hours ago, Crashtd420 said:

 

 

10psi residual valve on rear will create extra wear, drag and heat... 

 

This. Disc residual valve is 2 PSI to just keep the pads gently against the rotor to keep them clean. 10-12 PSI is 5 to 6 times the pressure and can easily cause over heating and wear. Pull the front disc brake residual valve from any spare Nissan master cylinder and swap it into the rear circuit of your current master cylinder. It's as easy as that.

 

Have a care as they look identical, don't mix them up.

 

 

[d.p]

Taking it does make a mess but I was told better not have it but who the fuck knows.  
 

 

[mainer311]

Is there a spring or something behind that disc? Certainly that can’t be the whole thing…

[datzenmike]

 

This is from my 76 and I used it in an '81 ZX master. I don't know what that thing with the holes is but not a residual valve I think.

[d.p]

Yeah I have  another pic but don’t remember what was what.  Either way my brakes work fine no issues. 

[d.p]

Still got the fucker.
 

But I have had my truck on a battery tender and when I go to drive it as of late the first time I turn the key it’s like the truck dies.  If I start it again it starts right up.  It’s like the exact opposite of what I expected from having it on a tender all the time.  
 

I got an AGM battery if that matters. 

[thisismatt]

Starts, then dies?  Doesn't crank at all first try?  

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

AGM batteries don't like to sit and some tenders aren't compatible with AGMs.

[d.p]

11 hours ago, thisismatt said:

Starts, then dies?  Doesn't crank at all first try?  

 

Doesn't crank, I turn the key and the A/F gauge and voltmeter (in the cig lighter) turn off like the battery is completely dead.   If I turn it over again it will start, if not 1 or 2 times after turning the key.  

[d.p]

24 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

AGM batteries don't like to sit and some tenders aren't compatible with AGMs.

 

This is the one I got which says its compatible with AGM:  https://tinyurl.com/499brznn 

 

 

 

[mainer311]

Bad ignition switch contacts, maybe?