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What did you do to your truck today?


Madness

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And put new lenses in! BTW, the only reason I blocked the plate in the 2nd photo is so Photoshop would expose ir correct.

 

I had them silver first, but I didn't like them, so I did them again in gray.

 

Before:

dat_886.jpg

 

After:

dat_0914.jpg

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loaded the truck up and found out that since i had kicked in the fender of the 78, i now rubbed on right turns. the reason i kicked the fender is i was really pissed off because the new exhaust stud wouldn't go in. so..... i plyer rolled the drivers fender. i havent driven it since "fixing" the fender. i will drive it a little tomorrow so its all good.

 

other than that i DROVE the 73 today. not real far just basically moved it around the yard but god did it feel good!

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DSC_0045.jpg

 

made the back hella stiff.

 

wow thats realy thinking outside of the box...way out side...and upside down!

 

so how did that work out for ya? i flipped the leafs on my truck one time and it made to bad sounds from the driveline.

 

im gonna see what happens when i flip the leafs and drill a new hole in the leaf to offset the axle back like a 1/4 to 3/8in. maybe moving the axle back and putting some angle shims will make it work.

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wow thats realy thinking outside of the box...way out side...and upside down!

 

so how did that work out for ya? i flipped the leafs on my truck one time and it made to bad sounds from the driveline.

 

im gonna see what happens when i flip the leafs and drill a new hole in the leaf to offset the axle back like a 1/4 to 3/8in. maybe moving the axle back and putting some angle shims will make it work.

 

 

it was too stiff for me, if im going to drift the car it shud work but no. so i put it back the way it was. i might just take off 2 of the leaf springs and see what happens.

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i am 2 screws away from having my 73 back on the road. looks like ass, the bumper is about an inch and a half away from the body, but everything bolted up nicely. i just need 2 self tapping screws to secure the back of the fender. other than that i WILL be driving my 73 daily again. and the 78 SS RustOHMYGOD will become my backup untill she goes under the coroners knife. :D

 

 

edit:

 

she drives so smooth. I only used one screw in the bottom rear of the fender but it holds at 65MPH so its all good.

Edited by moparvwfreak
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Put on my pilot bushing, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, and Exedy clutch kit. Getting closer to getting it road ready. :D

 

I am right there with you. I would of least had the drivetrain together last night but I put the damn carrier bearing on backwards. All thats really left for me is the driveshaft and fix the right front brake drum.

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so how did that work out for ya? i flipped the leafs on my truck one time and it made to bad sounds from the driveline.

 

im gonna see what happens when i flip the leafs and drill a new hole in the leaf to offset the axle back like a 1/4 to 3/8in. maybe moving the axle back and putting some angle shims will make it work.

 

it was too stiff for me, if im going to drift the car it shud work but no. so i put it back the way it was. i might just take off 2 of the leaf springs and see what happens.

 

Don't bother drilling holes. The axle won't have moved forward just from a spring flip. What happened is you've messed up the drive shaft angle and the U joints are fighting each other.

 

When there is a bend at a U joint the U joint actually has to rotate through an ellipse (oval) shape and not a circle. This means it has to speed up and slow down while turning. Because the drive shaft is solidly connected to the tires and the pavement and the motor, the speed up and slow down becomes a vibration. The sharper the bend the bigger the ellipse and the more vibration.

 

The solution is to make the inlet angle equal the outlet angle. This way the accelerations cancel each other out. In the picture below, the angle between tranny spline and the drive shaft is equal to the drive shaft where it connects to the differential.

 

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/Tranny/transdriveline.png[/img]"]transdriveline.png

 

On a two piece drive shaft the same applies. As the rear axle moves up and down the pinion angle to drive shaft will remain very close to the drive shaft to tranny angle.

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I wired brushed the bed, then used Metal Ready from the Por-15 people. I was just going to POR-15 the rusty spots, but what the hell, it has so many scratches, I por-15'd the entire bed. I hope it sticks to the paint okay, as I will be adding Herculiner too.

 

The Herculiner people said their bedliner sticks quite well to POR-15.

 

After the POF-15 sets up, I will put a 2nd coat tomorrow on the heaver rusted areas.

 

Then I will caulk all the seams in the bed before the Herculiner.

 

I still gots a problem with it running, but sometimes I have to step back and do something else.

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Took advantage of this weekend to make my last points 620 a non-points 620. This leaves only the 520 with points.

 

What "sparked" this was after having the ignition cut out randomly on the freeway a few weeks back and thinking it may have been the loose tach lead grounding out the coil, the truck decided it wouldn't start anymore. Process of elimination showed I wasn't getting any spark from the coil. Points were fine, but even test firing the coil produced nothing.

 

I don't have any more functional points coils here, and I had my last spare matchbox dist on a shelf so I installed that. However, I couldn't get it into time- for some reason the matchbox (which was complete down to the base) was about 45 degrees off. I ended up swapping the adjustment plate from the points dist to the matchbox (they're about 30 degrees different) and that set it just about right in the middle. I've never had that issue before, the stock adjuster plates were always right.

 

Since I got that one running, I spent today getting the '72 510 back running right. Somehow the idle circuit plugged up, but after blasting out the idle circuit it idles like new again. The bad part was the car got "occupied" by yellowjackets in the last month (since last time I moved it) and I got stung when I opened the door to pop the hood.

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so its been a while since i posted in here

 

over the last month i have:

 

changed my oil and filter

 

removed my power steering system completely

 

removed the remaining pieces of my a/c

 

ceramic coated my headers

 

removed the dash and heating components (all that remains is my gauge cluster resting on top of my heater core until i drain the coolant and remove the core)

 

re-located my battery to where my passenger seat used to be

 

had a test pipe made and installed that

 

and just put in new heavy duty sway bar end links

 

more to come soon

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