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Everything posted by yello620

  1. You are fighting a losing battle messing with that caliper piston. Just remove the caliper and use it as a core at the parts store to get a replacement. Even if you did get the piston to move back in, it will just stick again in the future and cause more problems later. I have no idea what you are talking about with a "spacer" at the piston. Never seen a "spacer before except in some custom "race" stuff. Are you just talking about normal pad shims?
  2. Any chance of getting pics of the calipers mounted on the car front and rear. I don't think that you have a master cylinder seal issue. I can think of three easily possible issues. Master cylinder pushrod length. Make sure it has some play in it as Mike mentioned. Generally, adjust as long as you can freely install and remove the pedal attachment pin. Rear caliper bleeder orientation. Could you unbolt the caliper and use the gravity method for bleeding and just tip the caliper around a little pointing the bleeder more towards up? I have had to do this before on a conversion that changed the bleeder position from the stock(280zx) position. Rear caliper parking brake adjustment. This depends on what year/style calipers you are using. This comment will not apply to early 280zx calipers, but the late calipers will be affected by this. The rear caliper pistons will retract far enough to give you a pedal that needs pumped up each time if the parking brake arm is not actuated repeatedly also. I have no idea really how to explain it though. Take a look at how much clearance you have between the pads and the rotor on all pads, inner and outer, top and bottom. They should all appear to be touching the rotor with basically only enough clearance for the rotor to turn.
  3. Post a pic of the one you are looking for. I believe that there were two different styles. I memory serves correctly, 75 is about the year that they changed. And I might have one too.
  4. Any chance that there was an error in your testing method? Or an inaccurate guage? Truck will do 90, just don't believe compression, tuning issue - yes. Most common thing to miss when doing a compression test is to make sure that the throttle body(carburator) is open so that the cylinder can get air. The cyclinders can only compress the amount of air that they receive. I think that the next thing would be the number of revolutions the motor is spun for the test. I was always told ten revolutions, but it usually maxes out around five revolutions IF you have pulled all the spark for the test. You could also have valves way out of adjustment causing low compression.
  5. Ratsun Classifieds :rofl: Sorry to hear of this unfortunate dealing with Adam, all my dealings with him have been positive. But, they were also all in person.
  6. I'm pretty sure that my neighbor would be getting handfuls of seeds to anything that could possibly grow thrown over the fence. He might not have a plum tree to deal with, but there will be plenty of other stuff for him to take car of now. :devil: Possibly followed by fertilizer to make sure it grows. B)
  7. My bet is on wrong calipers. With the pistons pushed in all the way and stock thickness rotors, there will be 1/8"+ of clearance between the pads and rotors until you pump the pedal a couple of times to get the pads touching the rotor.
  8. yello620

    Metric U Bolts

    Probably better re-check your math on those conversions. You only got one out of three correct. And I agree, SAE u-bolts do not matter. I bet that the only way that you will get metric u-bolts is to get them made in a metric country.
  9. We are still missing a piece of the puzzle. What size tire are you running? You might get away with 3.73's IF you ran a really small tire, but that it.
  10. Super clean 620 you found there. Sounds like you started with 620's about the same time I did. Think I got my first in 87. I'll just leave this here. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/36703-the-bmx-bikes-of-ratsun/
  11. Only if they are painted to match the hood.....
  12. Your probably going to want a F-body oil pan for that conversion. It is one of the shorter(depth) pans that GM offered, and you are going to need that minimal depth to get that motor in the chassis without the pan hanging under the crossmember. The Fbody pan fit in my C10 perfectly. That 5.3 will be absolutely stupid power for a 720. Enjoy.
  13. Those are the factory harness grounds, and on the core support between the battery and radiator is the factory spot for them.
  14. OK, you got me, I would yank that TBI off of there too. But I still wouldn't put a carburetor on it. I would put a Nissan multi-port manifold on it and inject it. Absolutely hate carbs. I think that a fuel injection manifold looks cleaner than a carb. The fuel cut is in your tuning, and is there for a reason.
  15. The VG fits really nicely in a 620 engine bay with ZERO cutting of anything on the truck except a hole in the firewall for the fuel injection harness. Why anybody would throw away the injection and put a carburetor is absolutely beyond any thought process. My VG620 conversion build thread is linked in my signature. Feel free to ask questions.
  16. Incredible. That's got to be freaking scary.
  17. Weird, my phone has not rang. :poke: :fu:
  18. Those will fit no problem, just get your saws'all out.
  19. My money would be on a 3" block in the rear, and a torsion bar adjustment in the front.
  20. You are absolutely wrong on this one. Yes the thrust block "floats" a little bit, but not enough to just shim one side only. The proper procedure can be found in the FSM. I found it in my 1976 FSM on page RA-5. Good luck to the OP...
  21. Every single one I have ever taken apart had shims on both sides of the vehicle. For a reason too..... The end play is NOT one axle against the other axle. The end play is the axle against the spider gear crosspin in the differential carrier, thus needing both axles shimmed.
  22. I looked into this a bit when I had my 620. I had(might still) had a catalog from one of the major rack and pinion rebuilder that list all the rack dimensions for most of the power racks. I could not find anything that was anywhere near close enough to fit the dimensions of a 620 in a front steer power rack configuration. Rear steer I seem to recall something close to narrow enough, but you can't just swap spindles left/right to get rear steer. The Ackerman angle built into the steering arms would be all wrong and should cause handling issues. The book I had did't list much for manual racks( and I wasn't interested in that option). That book was also just old enough that the smart car would not be in it. Good luck in this research. I think it could be a good addition for the 620. I was never very fond of the 19:1 factory box or the solid steering column.
  23. Razomike, I have completed a VG30 swap in a 620. Build thread can be seen in my signature. I turned out to be an excellent swap. Truck ran great. Shortly after completing the swap I was able to do some measuring on a VQ35 motor for the swap possibilities. It would be a huge challenge to get the VQ into a 620. I would certainly not recommend it for a first time swapper. Few of my observations when I was measuring the 350z. 1. The VQ is not going to fit without an extremely custom(expensive) fabricated aluminum oil pan. VQ motors are front sump motors and the 620 needs a rear sump. 2. I doubt the factory exhaust manifolds will fit the 620 frame, which will require custom manifols/headers. Once again, custom and expensive. 3. The 350z trans is NOT going to fit into the floor tunnel of the 620. More custom work, consider that thought as you are cleaning rust and painting the interior of the cab and undercoating the underside. 4. The 350z trans shifter location is WAY too far back to be comfortable in the 620. 5. The VQ makes enough power stock that you will immediately feel the need for a limited slip rearend(research this, no options for the H190). Just the VG motor needed it, making tire smoke was easy. 6. Study the length fitment of the motor, A stock radiator isn't going to cut it. Then measure the space available for a custom aluminum radiator and you will discover that none of the "off the shelf" aftermarket ones fit very well. A custom sized aluminum radiator is expensive($800ish). With those items discussed, I do believe that the VQ is a doable swap, but definitely not an easy one or inexpensive, and certainly not a good one for a first timer. That said though, I would like to do one myself. Many of the other things mentioned by others are reasonably easy, but do require your research and more importantly, your wallet. 1. Driveshaft are no big deal, provided you have a yoke that fits your transmission. Not cheap to get made though. Lose the carrier bearing. 2. Wiring really isn't that big of deal if you can read wiring diagrams. Tuning of the computer(removing alarm and emissions stuff) is completely different story though. 3. Speedometer drive. I dont have an answer on this, I assume that hte 350z is electronic speedo drive, how are you going to integrate that to the 620. On the VG(Z31) trans, I used the stock 620 mechanical speedo cable. 4. Fuel systems have plenty of options, but do require lots of research to make it fit your application, and again requires digging into your wallet. This one also has a pretty serious safety concern with it. Where and how you route the lines definitely matters. Not a good place to cheap out. 5. I personally do not think that just having Pathfinder brakes is enough upgrade for this motor swap. You need a perfect suspension system to go with it, you are going to need to be able to make the truck handle properly too. That isn't cheap. Good luck in whichever route you choose(It will be needed for the VQ). Let me know if you need more info on the VG swap, but it's basically all in my build thread. I would highly recommend sticking with a KA motor that has been documented many, many times. Sorry, I'm not a fan of the SR motors.
  24. The VG30E fits incredibly well. See signature for a build thread. But also remember that the VG33E would fit just the same. I would build a combination of VG parts if/when I build another one.
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