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Everything posted by datsunaholic

  1. Ah, the joys of Autozone starters...

  2. https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PLR14MPF-Dash-FM-MPX-Shaft/dp/B004HJ3FH0 Has USB and SD card inputs. There are others out there. Search for "shaft style radio". Otherwise you have to cut up the dash fascia and the metal dash frame to fit a DIN type radio. Or, you can just leave the stock radio in place and get a floor console with radio opening, though 72- '73 has the shifter further forward than the 74+, so it might not quite fit. As far as speakers, both passenger and driver's side kick panels have the same speaker cutouts, and you can get speakers to fit them, albeit small ones.
  3. I have a factory black '82 (titled as an early 83, Z22 low taillight though) King Cab 4X4.
  4. 6000 pulses per minute is correct for a 6-cyl 4-stroke engine at 2000 rpm. (2000 rpm is 1000 pulses per cyl, x6 gives 6000).
  5. Issue I've had with Hitachis is a bit of debris ends up in the primary jet. The way the jet is positioned, stuff can get in there and stay there. When the engine dies, the debris falls out of the jet and the engine runs again, until the debris gets pulled back into the jet and repeat. It is possible to pull the jet caps off without removing the carb (they're under the float bowl), and sometimes the debris runs out with the fuel (it WILL drain the bowl when you do that!). It's just a lot easier to inspect it with the carb off.
  6. Did you remove the carb, or just open it up in place? - The manifold adapters, particularly the 2-piece ones have a nasty habit of having the bolts back out. Especially the ones that go into the manifold, and then they push the adapter up and cause a vacuum leak. Engine will run (lean) but only above a certain RPM, won't idle. I've had this happen numerous times. In fact, the truck I just got a few weeks ago, the prior owner gave up on it b/c it wouldn't idle. The adapter plate was loose. I tightened it up, only to have it loosen up 200 miles later. This time I put blue loctite on the bolts, which usually does the trick. - The main jets aren't what lets it idle, so did you clean just those or did you also pull the side screws that cover the actual idle jets? Since you don't have a cutoff solenoid it'd be a brass plug on the same side, in front of and below the choke heater.
  7. Problem is, most Datsuns in wrecking yards (when you can find one) already have the alternator missing, or it's an Oreillys rebuild. Sometimes that being the reason it's in the wrecking yard in the first place... I do agree that if you can find an original unmolested alternator then go for it, but finding them isn't easy anymore. It sucks having to run crap parts when nothing else exists.
  8. Napa filters are WIX. Just painted a different color and a NAPA logo. Same filter inside.
  9. That essentially releases the pressure in the entire system, as it's now no longer a closed loop. The pressure in the system is not created by the pump. Its caused by heat. My point was, however, that if you have a heater core leak it doesn't matter where the valve is. Unless you isolate the heater core entirely, which requires TWO valves, you'll still end up with a wet floor.
  10. When did 280ZXs suddenly become $20,000 collector cars? Sheesh.

    1. Dolomite


      They didn’t. People are asking a ton, but they stay on CL forever. I have doubts if the Leno effect will hit the zx.

    2. ArchetypeDatsun


      Like 3-4 years ago it had to do with sold prices on eBay and bringatrailer. Shoot I used to have 3 of them. One of them went to a member BLUE been wanting to buy it back be he no answer back.

  11. If the heater core leaks it won't matter which end has a valve. Not with a system pressurized to 10-15psi (or more). Even if the non-valved side is on the suction side of the pump- because the pressure doesn't instantly go away when the engine is turned off... but it does equalize in the entire system.
  12. Yes a body shop can do it, assuming that there's enough metal left to reweld the bracket in. These are a common failure. Gotta free up the hinge pin first, though, or it'll just rip it out again.
  13. My 91 Pathfinder does that occasionally going into third. The synchro is damaged. Also note that all 86-95 FS5R30A 4X4 transmissions had a design flaw where the fill hole was a inch too low, causing the transmissions to be underfilled by a little more than 1.5qts. It's pretty rare to find one that had the transmission case replaced by the proper one. I filled mine by jacking one side up on ramps to tilt it to get more oil in. I have 297,000 miles on it, so it seems to have worked. Certainly made it quieter. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/files/NTB97-009a%20-%20FS5R30A%20TRANSMISSION%20WHINE.pdf
  14. 4X4 only had center caps on the rear wheels, I believe. Fronts the hubs just stick through with no center cap, since it contains the hub lock. I know on my Pathfinder the hubcaps are different front to rear.
  15. I did say that. But I have all the manifolds and fuel rails too, just a few odd bits missing like thermo housings. And being he likes more modern EFI control I figured he could adapt a better ECU setup. But, I know Jeff likes to do the more wild swaps, whereas I've always been limited to what I can bolt in. ve
  16. You do realize that the L28 was not a carbbed engine, right?
  17. I have a couple L28 longblocks that are NOT seized up, but need to be gone through I could let go cheap.
  18. datsunaholic

    73 gas tank

    Make sure the bed mounts for the tank are still there. Usually the tanks get pulled because they rusted out, but sometimes it's because the mounts rusted and the tank fell off.
  19. My '78 510 has the same issue. Normally the high beams turn off after a couple seconds but not always. I just hit the flash to pass part (which energizes all 4 headlights) and usually the high beams shut off. It's the relay, it gets stuck in High mode.
  20. Its not mislabeled. The badged model is a 510, which was what they sold it as here in North America. It's just the late model one, with the chassis code of A10.
  21. Reverse lights might not be hooked up, but where does the wires to the switch on the transmission go? I had constant blown fuses on that circuit on my '76 KC- turned out the reverse switch wires had rubbed the insulation off on the torsion bar and were shorting out.
  22. They're similar, but there are significant differences if you know where to look. The cab rear is longer and more squared off, and the door hinges are exposed (that's the main visual difference between the 22x and 320s).
  23. Whenever I've bought them back it was under $100. Worth it. The insurance companies don't get retail from the scrapyards.
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