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Removing Carpet From Interior


DIY 1985

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I'm thinking about getting to bare bones with my 720, and not trying to keep it looking original or factory.  I think that there is a leak from the windshield, and when it rains, the truck smells funky.  Plus the carpet is loaded with sand that never fully vacuums out.

 

What can I expect from removal of the carpet?  There is that spot next to the accelerator pedal where a wear-pad seems glued on, will it easily remove?  Am I removing actual acoustic and thermal dampening?  Is all the cab painted and primed?

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I buy my carpet and pad from the local automotive upholstery store.  I buy the 1/2' pad and put 2 layers down.  Been doing my truck floors this way long before all these high dollar Dyna-mat type solutions even existed.

 

I use contact glue spray cans or pneumatic sprayer.

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I just can't stomach having carpet, at home, or in my truck.  My Land Cruisers have/had a minimal floor, and clean up is as simple as a dust pan or a sponge - no vacuum to plug-in, or listen to, required.  Their floors turn to rust buckets from the factory rubber floor mats, and the usual water entry vulnerabilities.

 

Finally getting rid of all of the PO hair, and pet hair, air freshener fragrances, and spilled beverages would be nice.  The factory look is nice, but the carpet isn't just a flat piece that can easily renewed or replaced without some work and skill.  Also, minimizing VOCs (from plastics) would probably keep the interior of the windows cleaner.

 

I've heard of using Lizard Skin, or a paint with ceramic bits in it.

 

The plastic part over the transmission hump seems to fit on the carpet and pad, I wonder if it will need support?

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After you fix the leak, take the carpet out and pressure wash it, if it’s still in good shape and put it back in. I did this with my ‘85 KC, should have seen all the dirt that came out of it, and it turned out great. I let it dry a few days in the hot sun. I did the seats while they were out as well. It took them a little longer to dry, they’re cloth.

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I hate rhino liner. The texture on it traps dust and it always looks dirty. Plus, if your prep sucks, it can trap water and lead to metal rot. I had a customer's FJ60 interior rhino lined (or line x) and even the pros who sprayed it did not do the kind of prep I like, but luckily I knew this ahead of time and did my own surface prep. I still hate how it looks though.

 

If you want to make your own rubber floor mats, or even a one piece rubber mat that covers the entire front floor, including the trans tunnel, buy some generic restaurant floor mat in bulk and cut it to fit your floor. I've done this a couple times and I like the look, plus its easy to remove and clean.

 

If you're removing the carpet because of a water leak, make sure the leak isn't getting the firewall padding wet too. That padding traps mold. Is there a cowl vent/air intake up under the windshield? I know on the Land Cruisers, that area tends to rust from leaves sitting in the cowl vent area. If there is a leak there, it may be a bitch to get to for a permanent fix. You can use a wire brush and some evapo-rust to get a clean surface and then apply some epoxy as a temporary fix.

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I think that the windshield leaks.  I wouldn't be surprised about other leaks as well.  I don't feel very confident about a windshield weatherstrip replacement, but it can't be much worse than where I'm at with the current situation.

 

I did a bunch of driving today, and noticed that the floor on the back of the driver's seat (PO converted to buckets) gets quite hot.  Still, I bet that I can handle the heat, and noise.

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On 6/30/2021 at 8:53 PM, DIY 1985 said:

I think that the windshield leaks.  I wouldn't be surprised about other leaks as well.  I don't feel very confident about a windshield weatherstrip replacement, but it can't be much worse than where I'm at with the current situation.

 

I did a bunch of driving today, and noticed that the floor on the back of the driver's seat (PO converted to buckets) gets quite hot.  Still, I bet that I can handle the heat, and noise.

 

That's about where the catalytic converter is, if equipped. Yeah that would get pretty hot right there. 

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To lessen the heat transfer to the cab, you can apply some peel and stick heat barrier to the underside of the cab, just above the exhaust. You can also get material to wrap your muffler and/or cat too. I use these products regularly and the difference in interior temps is measurable.

 

Here's the peel and stick kind - https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/heat-barrier-and-sound-deadening-mats/brand/design-engineering-dei/mat-use/heat-barrier/installation/self-adhesive?SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending&N=brand%3adesign-engineering-dei%2bmat-use%3aheat-barrier%2binstallation%3aself-adhesive

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I just pulled the carpet out of my parts truck to put into my non-functioning daily (I got it without carpet originally). Relatively easy to pull out, there is insulation underneath as mentioned. As for the harder, padded insulation - take some broken up dry ice and lay it on top of it for 10-15min, take a plastic mallet to it and it'll break right up.
I'm planning on putting in some Kilmat 80mil on the floors, then carpet on top.

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Bigleague, if you are serious about taking on the repairs yourself, i suggest looking up Fitzees Fabrications on youtube.  The guy does amazing metal repair with only basic tools.  He is working on a datsun 620 and hand builds all the patch panels, including body mounts.  All that will translate right to a 720 pretty well.  I'll eventually be building new body mounts in my 720 quad cab project but I'm still a long way from there.

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I just today watched a video of Fitzee making a partial floor pan for a 620 standard cab, and also another video of him making a rock panel for the same cab. It seems to me like he made mention of another video of him doing a body mount. Very good information!! 

 

Don

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On 11/9/2021 at 6:41 AM, DIY 1985 said:

I discovered that both of the body mounts, about at the door hinges, are rotted fully.  I'm going to have to look into the integrity of all the body mounts.

 

Discovered this same issue myself on my passenger mount this past weekend.
1/4" stainless angle - bolted to the cab with a 1/2" hole drilled for the mount. Worked perfect.

 

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I didn't know that there is tar-like insulation.  I've removed it before with a gasoline and a chisel like tool.  I've heard dry ice as well, I might try that route.

 

1478088513_driverfloorpan.thumb.jpg.8cfad2694b3003f578a0d22824dfeeb3.jpg

 

It is rotted like that on both sides, driver and passenger, about the same amount.

1524863823_bodymount.thumb.jpg.0c0ee6fedbcc1dcb003cf05c621120e3.jpg

 

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