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DIY 1985

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  1. As always, thanks Mike. I didn't know that Rotella had the greater wear resistance factor. Folks on the Land Cruiser forum report adding a bottle of Rislone Zddp (the Land Cruiser has a capacity of about eight quarts) to their Rotella T4. I guess that I could just get some additive for the Valvoline? The Rotella is less expensive, but again it isn't specified for gasoline engines When I replaced the valve stem seals in the Toyota, I soaked parts in gasoline, overnight. It was amazing how much fine red rust is under the black sludge. After the gasoline dried off, a wire brush would produce quite a bit of red dust that was hard not to breathe in a little of it. The worst wear on the four rocker assemblies that I've worked on, was the rocker arm shaft/spindle, on the friction side (bottom side of the rocker arm). All four have serious wear. These parts are also, NLA from the OEM. It is so bad that if the valve is adjusted to where the rocker arm could ride just outside the groove (factory specs in some cases) created from earlier wear, there will be an annoying click from the arm jumping around. For me, it is still the sludge factor, and the detergent that I'm after. Why, I've only put on 10K on the Z24 in almost five years of ownership, and much less since I put the Land Cruiser on the road, so it isn't like I'm running the camshaft much thru the modern oil's pencil sharpener treatment on my lifters, etc. I don't like the idea of holding on to the PO's sludge, and, I'm not firing up the 720 that much. My guess is that the Z24 is aging slower than I am, even with low ZDDP oil, but why not improve the situation - I have to change the oil anyway, so why not get out as much junk as I can? And, even better if I can prevent wear.
  2. Any opinions on which bottle for the crankcase on my Z24? Also, intend to use the same bottle on non-hydro lifter '75 Toyota 2F gasoline motor. Valvoline is listed for both gas, and diesel. Rotella is listed for diesel only. Is there any reason to not use Super Blue non-synth, particularly in the Land Cruiser 2F without a cat converter, and stick with T4? I'm kinda hung up on the print that is actually on the bottle. However, I'd like to deal with sludge first, and maybe get a bit more protection on the lifter/cam side of things, but, sludge is a particularly a concern.
  3. So, I finished the install of four new tires. However, on one of them, I tore the rubber that encases the bead. So, I ordered a replacement. I installed zero balancing weights on the four wheels. Haven't driven it on the highway yet. The install seemed easier when I wasn't working in hot weather. Maybe it was just my imagination.
  4. Got a gallon of RuGlyde from NAPA - no way I'm using all of that in my life, but, whatever. I must have used an hour or more to just determine how to mount the tire changer without concrete anchors. I figured that I would use my HF engine crane base. I ran to the hardware store to get some 3/8" eye-bolts, they are held by the eye of the outside leg hitch pin. I thought that I was going to weld pipes in for U-bolts, but it wasn't necessary. \\\ So, I was able to remove my 720 spare from a good wheel (gonna paint it), to a junkyard wheel that has minor blow-out damage (wish I would have known that before I bought it, oh, well, I made an extra 150 miles for another wheel and harvested a spare/trail starter too). The whole tire mounting process was super easy. The directions didn't mention removing the spring weights before starting, oops, lost some paint on that one. Now, on to tire shopping, finding plugs for the inside and figuring out balancing. I'm thinking Hankook Kinergy ST 195/75R14, harvesting a bunch of steel-rim weights from the local scrap yard, and fabbing a tool for weight removal. If I get a machine shop to make an aluminum insert for the Toyota 15" Land Cruiser wheels, I might get away with a bubble balance for both rigs.
  5. maybe mounting them to the front hub for balancing?
  6. Humm, the bubble balancers seem to only be up to 4" diameter, that will get the factory 720 wheels done, but not the Land Cruiser's.
  7. I like the plank idea, but, I also saw someone do it with a high-lift jack and the weight of the truck, on Youtube. The HF unit with the center spindle might be easier to lever off of - 40 USA dollars (ish), and it comes with the bar. However, it would be nice to have about two or three of Mike's tire irons / spoons just to hold the tire in position against the rim? @john510It seems like the nail gun compressor has the volume, and pressure, just not the volume delivery thru the blow-gun with rubber safety tip, or am I wrong?
  8. I'm thinking about removing and installing tires on steel wheels here at home. HF manual tire changer, HF bubble balance, clip-on spring weights. Is the tire lever powder coated as to not scratch steel wheels? Is there an issue with a small shop compressor (like for a portable nailing gun) setting beads? Do I really want tons of volume quickly, necessitating pro equipment? I realize that I'll remove the valve from the stem and use a safety-nozzle for max volume. I'm not interested in a flammable technique. How will I know which side of the wheel to place weights, axle side or hub cap side? Or, is the inside of the wheel for when the front gets kinda weighty? Do I even need to balance? I lost a small to medium weight installed by a pro shop on my 215/75R15 on my FJ40 with factory steelies, and I would never have known by driving it. I'll also be mounting 195/75R14 for my other ride, so these aren't what you might think of as truck tires. Is there a tool needed for weight installation and removal? Do I need dried compressed air, or can it be just New Mexico on a dry day? There has to be a preferable soap, and its ideal concentration? I'm thinking about corrosion, and compatibility with the tire, valve stem, patches, etc. My guess is that I'm probably overthinking this one.
  9. I had an exhaust plug loosen up once due to debris in the way upon initial installation. So, it could just be debris in the way of a properly torqued seal? For a head that is dirty, I scrape the outside of where the plug washer seats, gently, to remove gunky dust, wipe with a gasoline-soaked q-tip, use compressed air (if I have it), etc. For the threads, themselves, I rinse a plug in gasoline, install wet with the socket (by hand, no wrench). The gasoline allows the plug to clean the head's threads, and eventually go all the way to the seated spot without the torque of the wrench, ensuring that the threads are clean. Back the plug out again, wire toothbrush the threads of the plug, dip in gas, reinstall without wrench, repeat until clean and fully seated. Mop up the gasoline with more q-tips. When I finally install, fully torqued, I use nothing more than motor oil as an anti-seize. Clean threads will allow the torque applied to compress the gasket/washer which holds the plug stable against the head thru temp swings, etc. You might have bad plugs where the thread isn't up to proper tolerance? The rumor goes that there are fake ones out there, but, I wouldn't be able to tell the difference, and how true are rumors anyway? Some plugs have a gasket/washer that isn't captive on the base of the thread, so make sure that the loose plug actually has one. You might just need to install a thread-repair-insert?
  10. Anyone have success finding a set of center cap covers for OEM '85 2wd wheels?
  11. What is your source? I pulled an aftermarket one from a U Pull yard and it was separating under the weatherstrip, from the bottom, there were air bubbles between the glasses. I decided to leave it there. Also, it was a non-chromed weatherstrip, it had a gap from shrinkage.
  12. I think that the windshield leaks. I wouldn't be surprised about other leaks as well. I don't feel very confident about a windshield weatherstrip replacement, but it can't be much worse than where I'm at with the current situation. I did a bunch of driving today, and noticed that the floor on the back of the driver's seat (PO converted to buckets) gets quite hot. Still, I bet that I can handle the heat, and noise.
  13. Nah, I like the factory paint. Rhino lining doesn't add insulation, if I am correct, otherwise, it would be Lizard Skin.
  14. I just can't stomach having carpet, at home, or in my truck. My Land Cruisers have/had a minimal floor, and clean up is as simple as a dust pan or a sponge - no vacuum to plug-in, or listen to, required. Their floors turn to rust buckets from the factory rubber floor mats, and the usual water entry vulnerabilities. Finally getting rid of all of the PO hair, and pet hair, air freshener fragrances, and spilled beverages would be nice. The factory look is nice, but the carpet isn't just a flat piece that can easily renewed or replaced without some work and skill. Also, minimizing VOCs (from plastics) would probably keep the interior of the windows cleaner. I've heard of using Lizard Skin, or a paint with ceramic bits in it. The plastic part over the transmission hump seems to fit on the carpet and pad, I wonder if it will need support?
  15. So, the factory didn't spray an insulator under the cab, and I will be subject to not really hearing the radio that well on the highway and the at throttle?
  16. I'm thinking about getting to bare bones with my 720, and not trying to keep it looking original or factory. I think that there is a leak from the windshield, and when it rains, the truck smells funky. Plus the carpet is loaded with sand that never fully vacuums out. What can I expect from removal of the carpet? There is that spot next to the accelerator pedal where a wear-pad seems glued on, will it easily remove? Am I removing actual acoustic and thermal dampening? Is all the cab painted and primed?
  17. My Redline kit suggests that no more than 1.5 turns out on the idle mix screw. I understand that as keeping the first progression hole balanced with the idle mix feed. Closing the idle mix will enrich the rpms above idle. You might remove the idle mix needle, and purge that hole with compressed air just to make sure. What is your float drop setting? My DGV is running 55s on both idle jets, 165 on the primary air corrector with 160 on the secondary, a 140 primary main and 135 secondary main. My idle speed screw is maxed out at 1.5 turns in. I'm at altitude, 7,000'. You might make sure that the stop screw on the secondary is closed by looking from the top with a flashlight? It seems like there is air coming in from somewhere, if you really are at .5 turns in on the idle speed screw, and the stock jets for a Z24 kit are so lean that it is observable with street performance?
  18. If your valve lash is excessive, your engine can't breathe. If the top of the intake, or exhaust, valves are caked with burnt-on oil, same problem. An A/F readout isn't a substitute for an old-school vacuum reading. Plugs need to be tan on the insulators, not black, white, or shiny black. I'm assuming this is a 32/36 progressive Weber? The pump jet for this carb is offered in only one size, but you might be able to drill it out, if necessary. Is this the stock 86 exhaust manifold? My Nissan exhaust bung seems fine, but on my Land Cruiser, I put one behind the collector of the header, it is too sensitive to temperature, and I get inconsistent readings with different O2 sensors. How many turns on your idle speed screw, and idle mix screw?
  19. I'm pretty sure that I'm running idle jets at 55, air corrector at 165 main, 160 secondary. 140 main primary, and 135 main secondary.
  20. Oops, I forgot, I have a 1mm hole in the throttle plate, opposite the progression holes, as per Pierce Manifold's video. I have achieved as high as 32mpg with the Weber on my Z24. I've also hacked harness so that both coils fire regardless of the computer. I'm a bit advanced for static timing at idle, but I'm not running ported vac advance. The AFR readout is a nice thing, apparently, it is just a super fine reading of voltage. It works with repeatable results on the Nissan exhaust, with original O2 sensor. Are all the vac sources in good shape, PCV system, brake booster, adapter plate, gaskets, etc? Have you taken a vacuum reading at idle?
  21. 1/2 to 3/4 turns-in on the speed screw is 3/4 to 1 turn less than mine is set. I'm at the max 1.5 turns in. I'm probably far less than 800 rpm. Where is the air coming from? Is this a used carb? I'm at 6,800'
  22. Make sure that you have good vacuum. The brake booster can cause issues, so see if depressing the brakes changes anything. Try plugging vac sources to isolate problems, and make sure that everything is secure that connects to the manifold. Pull your spark plugs and 'read' them. Your symptoms kinda sound like a stuck open EGR valve.
  23. The DGV has a bit to be desired for fast-idle at choked - it doesn't adjust, and is set kinda low. The DGV lacks a vacuum actuated choke breaker - one less potential failure along with the wire that the mice will chew. The choke cable that came with my DGV kit was kinda tough to operate, especially screwed into plastic on the dash. I used a generic cable from O'Reiley. The DGEV is fine, but I prefer the manual choke for simplicity. Go with the DGEV if it is important that a mechanic will be able to actually get the truck into the bay on a cold day without having to get three other guys to push it from the tailgate.
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