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DIY 1985

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Santa Fe, New Mexico
  • Cars
    '75 Toyota FJ40, '85 Nissan 720 rwd
  • Interests
    Woodworking, machining, welding, architecture, horticulture
  • Occupation
    Nurseryman

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  1. I fixed the upside down image problem in GIMP, maybe. I'm using generic M8x1 studs on the valve cover. On that stud, I needed to raise the air cleaner assembly to fit flat on the carb, so I put a M8 nut on it. On top of that, I installed these cool OEM-Toyota washer grommets, which were supposed to work on my 2F's air cleaner assembly, but, they seem small compared to the original ones. Then, I capped it all with a M8 fender washer, and a thin washer. Using a wrench from the bottom, I compress the washer/grommet, and it holds the air cleaner assembly with minimal metal to metal contact. This is the Toyota part number for the washer/grommet. And, the wing nut, for the air cleaner housing, is essentially the same thing, but, it has a captive wing nut on the same grommet/washer, again, minimizing metal-to-metal contact, but also forming a bit of a seal. It comes from an '82 Toyota 2F gas engine, I forget the part number, but it is available. @captain720 I like the fender fuse block for accessories. You mentioned a ground, on the fender or bib. I've been thinking that it would be nice to make a good connection to the horn(s) chassis, as the screw that grounds it, also attaches it thru the fender. This means that fender contaminate can corrode the back of the electrical connection, so it might be good to add a wired connection, from the horns, to something akin to your fuse / junction block - or, that is the plan for mine. Insuring the horn's reliability could do more for you than headrests and seatbelts, depending on the situation, just a thought.
  2. That whole subharness in the engine bay has no power. I was running a DGV - manual choke before. My truck also has a fuel pump hack for power. I figure that I probably should have a semi independent circuit for the engine-related electrical, at least until I figure out what actually needs fixing. But, the idea of running all new wiring for the carb and fuel pump means that I can do a minor move on the coil, and have a running engine before dark, if all else electrical fails on the trail. That, and I need at least a temporary, key-switched source to run an O2 readout, to verify the quality of the exhaust.
  3. Continuing on with seeing what I can do with the factory air cleaner before I address it with a HF Diablo cut-off wheel... I added a window to the maxpeedingrods-brand carb Humm, why is my image upside down? I broke (or shipping softened) the wire to the electric choke, I failed in its repair. So, I'm looking for an electric choke; I borrowed one from my electric Weber for now, but, it's not the same. Also, I managed to loosen the fuel inlet. The brass fitting for the needle valve hasn't enough clearance to fit a 19mm wrench or socket, so, I used the little screw at the top to secure it to a crush washer, I hope it is tight enough. Tons of details on a carb swap, starting with setting up a clean install of a relay switch to provide juice to a non-manual choked, idle cut solenoided carb.
  4. Anyone remember where the return spring goes on a stock carb set-up?
  5. @Stoffregen MotorsportsThe gasket between the air filter element, and the air filter housing - it is too close to the welding to not be toasted, and I don't think that it will be removed in one piece. Also, I'm going to hijack my own thread here, pardon me, but anyone know of electrolysis or chem bath for carb rebuild? I want to remove mineral oxide deposits in the internal passages of the old Hitachi, and a Rochester, and, an couple of Aisan. I believe that carb dip will only do organics, like gas varnish, am I wrong? My Aisan would have a lean symptom, I swapped out for an new Aisan, but with smaller jets that came with it, no lean symptom, better fuel economy, more power. There was rust and oxidized aluminum in the bowl, so it would be best to assume that it made its way past the jets. But, I would love to run the original carb in both of my trucks, and I don't think that Marvel Mystery Oil is going to help clean my jets. My Hitachi carb seems to be without the O2sensor enrichment solenoid-(?), so, aside from the five or so vac connections, it would probably be a candidate for a simple desmogged setup? I just ordered one of the Maxpeedingrods-brand clone carbs for the sake of science, and maybe a carb organ donor.
  6. What about the replacement gasket under the air filter?
  7. Yes, I can weld just fine, it is the cutting and fitting that poses the challenge. If it fits tight, it will be easier to control the heat of the bead. On an '85, the carb and the airfilter don't share parallel planes, so, this is going to be tricky / jig dependent. It is like making a flat plate fit into the hull of a boat.
  8. There seemed to be a design and physical weakness with our harnesses here. Datsun was trying too hard in using the battery positive post as a kind of junction block, and the connector that they came up with is too specialized to just swap in a new one. Something like this might be a bit less insane. My solution was to wire a couple of ring terminals at the battery, then branch those wires/fusible links - putting a couple wires on one side of a crimp connector. Although it is fixed, it isn't really ideal in conforming to standards for automotive harnesses Ultimately, I'd like to find good battery post terminals (without SAE hardware), and redo the battery cables, and grounding straps. Soldered battery cable terminals would be ideal. A few things that I do with generic wiring, as of lately. First is removing the nylon insulation from terminal ends (spade, bullet, and ring connectors). I hate not being able to see exactly how I'm joining connectors to wires. You can also buy them without nylon insulation. Nylon insulation is really overkill on something like ring terminals on a grounding strap, and it makes the crimping tool have to contend with all this extra material. Heat shrink looks so much better, and it allows a solder option if you have skills or the need, but, heat shrink only works within a range of diameters, so sticky and self-adhering electrical wrap are good in those situations. If you look hard enough you will also find bare barrel connectors as well - it is so nice to reduce the bulk that results with connections.
  9. I was just digging thru the parts stash. I wanted to pull the original carb so I knew how tall it sits. For the sake of it, I tested the idle cut solenoid - no good. When I started this project, the carb was a mess with RTV everywhere, a bunch of mud, and hacked wiring. Well, now I know how I got on this trail. I found the Weber to Toyota 2F adapter. It turns out that it allows the Datsun air cleaner assembly to basically work together with the Weber - might need a squishy gasket. The overall height difference is something that I'll try next, it is close. I guess that it shouldn't be too hard to get a used air cleaner assembly, if I modify my OE one. However, the OE air cleaner has a nice shape directing the filtered air to the air horn of the carb.
  10. Checked in, "Product (carbs) Currently Unavailable".

  11. I'm thinking about just having a winter/summer situation, like it is on the Toyota F in '74, and how I have mine setup. Just to take the edge off of winter. Right now, I can drive around, and the air cleaner isn't too hot to touch, but it is well above body temp. Almost no need for choke after start-up. I think that my initial concern, about melting an air filter in September, was guided by my lack of comprehension of just how much air is pumped thru the system. Now I have headers, but Toyota originally bolted the exhaust manifold to the intake manifold on the same side of the head, exhaust gas would be directed, with a temp controlled flap, to the underside of the intake. And btw, it used what Datsun refers to as ATC. Sorry, I'm got a little sidetracked here, but, also, by going back to Hitachi, I can install that heated carb insulator, yet an other way of getting cold weather performance. I'm afraid that I'm going to be a dork, sporting a 9x13x3-inch steel cake pan covering my existing Weber air cleaner this winter.
  12. Yes, the 'snorkel kit,' but, for cold air intake. Kinda expensive, and I would have to fit an air filter somewhere between the kit and the exhaust manifold. Also, the valve cover, which reminds me, I have two of those tiny filters, and they both dry rotted and one has holes.
  13. Has anyone done this? There is a bit of a shape issue - making a rectangle fit into a circle. I bough one of those stock air cleaner to Weber carb adapters for my Toyota 2F, but it was miles off from actually fitting, much less directing air in a performance kind of way. The Weber air cleaner assembly is cheese. It is a bit small, the accompanying air filter is cheap. One got holes it it, probably being sand blasted from road salting that leaves a red sandy substance on the oil sweat around the front of the valve cover (and it is in a direct line from the engine fan), the other is brand new, but I stored it assembled, and it kinda got distorted from the pressure from one of the six clips that holds the top to the bottom. My real motivation is to add the hot air intake, this fall. The other rig got it (adapted to a header) and it is making a huge difference for those first few minutes of driving. Should I consider the OE carb, or its clones? They'd do it, and I wouldn't have to fabricate something that wasn't engineered for efficient air delivery?
  14. As always, thanks Mike. I didn't know that Rotella had the greater wear resistance factor. Folks on the Land Cruiser forum report adding a bottle of Rislone Zddp (the Land Cruiser has a capacity of about eight quarts) to their Rotella T4. I guess that I could just get some additive for the Valvoline? The Rotella is less expensive, but again it isn't specified for gasoline engines When I replaced the valve stem seals in the Toyota, I soaked parts in gasoline, overnight. It was amazing how much fine red rust is under the black sludge. After the gasoline dried off, a wire brush would produce quite a bit of red dust that was hard not to breathe in a little of it. The worst wear on the four rocker assemblies that I've worked on, was the rocker arm shaft/spindle, on the friction side (bottom side of the rocker arm). All four have serious wear. These parts are also, NLA from the OEM. It is so bad that if the valve is adjusted to where the rocker arm could ride just outside the groove (factory specs in some cases) created from earlier wear, there will be an annoying click from the arm jumping around. For me, it is still the sludge factor, and the detergent that I'm after. Why, I've only put on 10K on the Z24 in almost five years of ownership, and much less since I put the Land Cruiser on the road, so it isn't like I'm running the camshaft much thru the modern oil's pencil sharpener treatment on my lifters, etc. I don't like the idea of holding on to the PO's sludge, and, I'm not firing up the 720 that much. My guess is that the Z24 is aging slower than I am, even with low ZDDP oil, but why not improve the situation - I have to change the oil anyway, so why not get out as much junk as I can? And, even better if I can prevent wear.
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