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DIY 1985

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About DIY 1985

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Santa Fe, New Mexico
  • Cars
    '75 Toyota FJ-40, '85 Nissan 720 rwd
  • Interests
    Woodworking, machining, welding, architecture, horticulture
  • Occupation

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  1. I just learned of an old Land Cruiser FJ55 wagon receiving Lizard Skin with awesome results. It was applied in the engine bay and bottom of the body during an engine swap. Both heat from the engine/exhaust and sound were helped significantly on a vehicle from an era of Cruisers with just painted steel bodies.
  2. Anyone have experience replacing the stock headlights in your 720 for LEDs? I'd prefer to significantly increase the stock range of lumens, achieve an even distribution of headlight beam, and not go too blue or green in hue.
  3. What about timing the oil pump on the cam?
  4. You could burn oil being pumped to the rocker shaft if the head gasket is toast?
  5. Sounds like a dwell issue, but you have electronic ignition. Check for good spark, and you might want to 'read' your plugs. EGR not closed, making it hard to drop rpms?
  6. DIY 1985

    Mystery tap

    But it doesn't sound like a ball bearing hitting the bottom of a paint can?
  7. I bought my '85 in Jan of 2017. I paid $1,000. Water pump, flush, center link, fluids, driveshaft bearings, lights, carb conversion, cat back exhaust, belt pulley, cap rotor wires, tires, bumper, used tailgate, shifter boot, door pull, clutch hydraulics, master cylinder, windshield washer, coolant overflow, a few others that I can't or wish not to remember. That is about $5,000, very short of a frame-off.
  8. The tabs don't lock on the two of mine either. The tabs on the cap allow it to snap over the raised ridge on the edge cylinder reservoir. The tabs on the reservoir really don't appear to serve a purpose because they are too big to fit under the tabs of the cap; aligning text on the cap, maybe. You are good to go as is, the cap is in place.
  9. I might have been a bit low on transmission fluid. However, unless I had some already in the catch-basin, then I measured 2 liters collected. The gear oil was changed early last year GL4 80w90, and was still kinda amber after 2,500 miles, not much synchronizer in the pan either, but the shifting seems to have become a bit easier after it was driven for a couple miles or so.
  10. Did you replace your fuel pump? Fuel filter? The relay for the fuel pump is controlled by a oil pressure switch, so that in the event of an accident, or no oil pressure, the stalled motor will turn off the fuel pressure. I believe that the windshield in my rig is leaking rain on the factory relay. A PO wired my pump by tapping into the ignition-hot circuit. I can hear my pump when the ignition is on but the motor is off.
  11. The FJ45 (pickup) did it from the factory as well. Its windshield is hinged. It is hooked to the hood when folded down, and when the windshield is up (without the hard top, or bikini top) it is hooked to the dash. See page 5 on this thread. https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/preserving-patina-how-to-tips-and-tricks.1097611/page-5#post-12080265
  12. Got the master and slave in. I was about to totally strip the flare nut, then it occurred to me that I could piggyback a vise-grip on the 10mm flare nut wrench to keep it from expanding open when torqued. Couldn't quite yet get a tubing bender to cleanly make a damper bypass/delete. Any suggestions on tools? Not enough sunlight during the day to do gravity. Just pump it like brakes, and bleed from the damper and master. I paid like $8 from Autozone for a bleeder kit that had the right 1/8"-ish tube, and $2 from Ace for 1/4" clear vinyl tube. Had the reservoir above the nipple with a hoop on the hose to catch bubbles. Didn't use the reverse bleeder. I put some teflon on the slave bolts going into the bellhousing because I get the feeling that the front seal on the transmission is leaking and sweating gear oil all over the slave via its mounting points. I should have got the shift fork dust boot because I knew that it was toast.
  13. The FSM describes, for the 4x4 model, to connect the propeller shaft at the diff flange 180 degrees and take a test drive. I'd mark the original location first. Is it possible that the u-joint techs got the slip yoke 180 degrees, or just a spline off?
  14. DIY 1985

    CA Smog

    Not every 720 came with a AIS. My federal spec. late '84 build had a non-reed-valve air cleaner and a cat.
  15. Did you check the head and block with a machinist straight-edge?
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