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A guy named Rick

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Everything posted by A guy named Rick

  1. I wasn't even thinking the starter is the problem.. and yes it is a recent problem. My battery is from Walmart, less than a year. My alternator looks to be original, it had been tested earlier this year and was fine (according to O'Reilly auto parts) but I will have it tested again. I read somewhere if a battery is charged 80% or less, acid stratification can occur. This means that the electrolyte collects at the bottom of the battery, causing the upper half to be acid-poor. Acid stratification reduces the battery’s performance and may cause it to fail. I'm wondering if the cables I have neglected could have caused that to occur.
  2. Forgot to mention I have lights, fuel pump runs, I hear relays clicking on, but not enough juice to turn the starter at all. No stereo or clock, definitely no amp or alarm system. You may be right, time for new battery but why so soon? Something with my charging system must be killing the battery too early.
  3. So I had started noticing that the battery in my truck would get weak, especially after not driving it for a day or 2. Now it has gotten to the point that it dies completely overnight, even after having it charged up at Autozone and not driving it for a couple of days after. I had it charged Thursday night, only started it that day and the day after but didn't drive it, now it's dead again. I can hear the relays clicking off when turning the key, so I don't believe any relays to be sticking on. I have a corroded positive cable and the negative is a little corroded where it mounts below the thermostat, and also the thermostat does seem to leak a tiny bit (it causes the cable to get very sticky for some reason). The battery is only 6-8 months. Any ideas why this drainage is happening?
  4. Forgot to air them up >.< I probably was at 35 on a tire with max of 50, but the rims aren't as wide as the tire so they kind of bulge out over a little bit. Also I was about same height as with 800lbs. Not far off the bump stops either. The bed right behind the wheel opening was about 5 inches off the ground, maybe just shy of 5. Afterwards, I was about 9, 9.5 inches. Brakes? What brakes? My booster is bypassed. Hell I don't even know what the pads look like. Yeah, it was a bit scary 😳
  5. I just loaded up 1300lbs (mostly dirt) and took it 5 miles down the road to the dump. It did pretty well. Takeoff was a bit shakey if I didn't give it enough gas but I'm not used to that weight. I was 3960 in, 2660 out. It just cruised through town like it was on a Sunday drive.
  6. A guy named Rick

    0-60

    Looked at the tag. I have HF37
  7. A guy named Rick

    0-60

    Yup I keep forgetting to do that. I'll look after work in a bit. I think it's 38
  8. A guy named Rick

    0-60

    Yup. Probably a little down on compression too, or at least a little leakage past the rings for sure. Only 130,000 miles, but I think the previous owners (most likely original owner) didn't treat it right. I don't think 10 seconds is insane. Gearing plays a factor. I have no clue what my rear ratio is. I wouldn't be surprised if it were 3.90ish. I also have i believe 205/55/R16's or 215/55/R16's.
  9. I know this post was a year ago lol. But yeah, I was having same problem here in Northern California. If you aren't first, you're last when it comes to the 720's. Hell, sometimes there are picked clean when they get to pick n pull.
  10. A guy named Rick

    0-60

    All my piping is stock including original cat, which passed smog so it should be in good shape. The only thing is the muffler was replaced. I had hacked the exhaust off when doing the clutch because I couldn't unbolt and remove to get the transmission out. It was my understanding, and looked that way too, that the exhaust is in the way of removing the transmission (though I got it out alright the second time i removed the transmission when the retaining clip came loose for the throwout bearing 🤔) I had it welded back and told them "give me a muffler with some sound to it". well, idk what they gave me, but it doesn't give it much sound over stock. I would say it is also a larger than stock muffler.
  11. A guy named Rick

    0-60

    Especially for mine not being 100%. Would have been a little stoked if it was in the 9's on 0-60. Hell, i think I was only running mechanical advance at that time before realizing I had the outer hard vacuum lines crossed, so there was no vacuum to the distributor advance. May have worked in my benefit or balanced out because I was running higher timing at idle. I noticed more torque at lower rpms after fixing the vacuum advance.
  12. A guy named Rick

    0-60

    my best 0-60 was 10.2, about 17.5 1/4 mile @ 76 mph. All stock, weber 32/36, 2wd, 2.4 napz. 5-speed. I launched it too (idk how many rpm), and let off the gas a fraction of a second after clutching in to gaim some rpm before shifting up to help it lurch forward on the next gear. But yes these are not performance vehicles lol. i just wanted to see what it was capable of.
  13. Yes. I currently don't have it connected and just capped off. No popping in the exhaust. Possibly (most likely definitely) a little oil consumption
  14. Ok. I'll eventuallly rebuild. hopefully before it blows up. The noise i was hearing, what i thought was a pinging, is in fact engine pinging >.< it doesn't do it when cold. And it's new. It's because i had messed with the float level a little. i had noticed somehow some fuel was getting onto the rubber vacuum caps on this piece in the pic that is screwed into the intake with 2 smaller ports on it: I thought maybe the float level was too high, so i adjusted. what prompted me to do this? well, one day after work getting into the truck, it idled horrible. i was lucky to get it home. i found out the large cap on that piece was cracked, upon closer inspection it had fuel on it, and same with the smaller one on the lower side. I'm going to put it back, recheck the idle speed and mixture, also timing. I'm thinking now that i lowered the float level, i'm lean, so the pinging is a lean issue.
  15. Is it even worth it? only plus i can see is maybe a shorter throw (it seemed like the throw was shorter on the 280z trans).
  16. So from my understanding the 280z transmission is longer right?
  17. So i measured, it looks like i do have the shorty. weird, i didn't think it was that small. i measured from the front of the bellhousing to the back and it was about 26. from the joint between the front and back half, it's about 14 inches or so to the end of the tail shaft?
  18. I doubt i will be towing anything at all with it, especially not in the near future. I also have plans to swap to a KA eventually. Also, it is a 2wd, regular cab, running 215/55r16's I'll crawl under the truck and measure tonight.
  19. oh. yeah. totally missed that. Wait. do i have a 71B? 1986 720. Did they have a 71C also used?
  20. If my memory serves me, the middle transmission looks like mine that's in the truck.
  21. sorry, just edited previous post. i was just saying if i were to do that. i haven't measured yet, i need to, just busy with work. i would of course do that before going through the trouble.
  22. I would be pulling the L series to swap the Z series case onto. But same concept, except knowing the Z series needs attention i would probably just get a new 62mm bearing to be safe.
  23. 👆 Also this too would pose an issue wouldn't it? ☝️ I may as well just rebuild what's in the truck 😔
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