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Everything posted by 620slodat

  1. 620slodat

    my 1974 dats

    Thank you for the reply. So you are somewhere between the community college and the end of the four lanes. Beautiful area. When I first moved there I was used to the open spaces of the Willamette Valley and didn't like the area, but it didn't take really long for it to grow on me. Good thing I didn't have the Datsun pickup at that time, I probably would have spent all my extra money, and then some more, on driving the area to get to know it (including the logging roads). Fuel mileage is why I am now SLOWLY building up the 1973 with a diesel motor, hoping to be able to afford spending a little more time on the roads in the state. Don
  2. G-Duax got some real good pics of the 1973 idler arm and the clearances to the lower control arm. Plenty of space between the lower control arm and the idler arm, somewhere around an inch. Isomswim, how much space do you have between the idler arm and the lower control arm? How long is your idler arm? What is the length of the movable part of the idler arm from the collar up next to the pivot? From that same collar, what is the distance to the lower control arm? Can you get pics of where you measured from? Don
  3. I have a 1973 620, and the orientation of your idler arm looks like what I remember for the 1973. I currently have the tie rod and idler arm off so I can't do a direct comparison. Don
  4. 620slodat

    my 1974 dats

    I just looked up the gauge install pics (pg 3, 14th post from the top, I don't have post numbers visible on my page on my computer). Thank you Farmer! Very good information there. Looks very easy. Does the 4th pic show the difference in reflection between the domed glass lens on the tach and the flat plastic lens on the speedometer? I am partial to glass as it won't scratch as easy as plastic, but there is a difference in reflectivity there. Maybe Frank will chime in and comment on the gauges. Also, the gas tank level sender was listed as 90-0 ohms which is good information. By the way (slight turn away from the subject), where at in GP are you located? I spent 2 years there from the summer of 1971 to the summer of 1973. For the first few months I lived in town, then I moved out to Murphy. At the time Josephine County was one of the poorest/lowest wage counties in the state. Since then the town has changed and grown a lot.
  5. Welcome!! I find your project fascinating. I have a 1973 620 that my Dad bought brand new, and since he is now gone I plan to put a diesel in it. I had a 1982 Datsun 720 diesel King Cab frame given to me. So far I have found that a 620 King Cab (and most likely the standard cab) will fit on the 720 King Cab frame with a perfect match for the body to frame bolts. I haven't got far enough to try the 620 bed on the 720 frame, but my measurements say that it will fit directly mount bolt for mount bolt. The biggest difference so far I've found is that the 620 steering box and the idler arm are on the inside of the frame, while the 720 steering box and idler arm are on the outside of the frame. This is a plus if you plan to add things to the side of the motor (A.C., power steering, etc), which I plan to do. The fact that the steering box and idler arms are mounted different means that the 720 and 620 front suspensions are different (king pins for the 1977 and earlier 620, and ball joints for the 1978 and later 620 and all the 720's).The fact that you have a King Cab means that you might have disc brakes. Don
  6. 620slodat

    my 1974 dats

    Thank you for the quick reply. That sounds like what i was hoping for. From the pictures I've seen it did appear that the Speedhut gauges had a screw on ring on the back, and it is good to know that the back of the Datsun bezel fits the gauges good. If it isn't very difficult for you pics of the back of the bezel with the gauges in place would be good. The wiring for the gauges shouldn't be very difficult. I'm not a wiring wizard, but if I have the time to build a mental picture first then wiring won't be real hard (I'm very vizually oriented). My 1994 Chevy pickup didn't have the wiring for power mirrors, and I added the wiring as close to original GM as possible (involved removing the dash). Don
  7. 620slodat

    my 1974 dats

    I like the speedhut gauges and the way they look. Do you have detailed pics of what you did to install them? It probably won't happen right away, but doing that gauge conversion is something I have been thinking about for a bit now. Don
  8. Wayno, I don't have the fans in front of me, and in my mind I couldn't picture the whole thing. But, if the fan on the left was flipped over would it work on the SD22. You just posted as I was pecking (two finger typing) out my question. You answered my question before I even got to ask you, which was exactly what you posted. Thank you for answering my question. You are a wizard. Don
  9. 620slodat

    620 on a 720 frame??

    Just to add to the fact that 620 cabs will fit on 720 frames, I currently have a 620 KC cab setting on a 720 KC frame. Although not bolted down, the 6 bolts for the cab to frame are setting in the holes in the 620 KC cab and centered in the holes in the 720 KC frame, and the front wheel appears to be real close to centered in the front wheel opening. The big thing with this swap is that the front suspension has the steering gear box and the idler arm outside the frame allowing more room for add-ons to the motor. Also, disc brakes and ball joints are stock.
  10. I am interested in details on this as I want information/costs, etc. I might want to change to a tunnel mount to get the cable away from going through the firewall. Currently the cable angles down through the firewall and almost directly into the exhaust manifold on the SD-22 diesel motor. Too close, it will probably cause major problems with the e-brake cable because of the heat from the exhaust. A different angle for the cable going through the firewall (maybe the 720 series?) has been mentioned also. Can't make a proper decision without good information.
  11. Neat! An old friend has come home.
  12. The squeak (problem #1) could also be the contact point for the horn button. I don't know for sure just how the horn contact in the Nissan/Datsun is, but I have seen this in other older makes of vehicles. They have a spring loaded brass button that slides on a brass "washer" as the steering wheel is turned that has a potential for squeaking. If you look at other areas and don't find anything that could possibly cause the squeak then pull the steering wheel and investigate this area.
  13. 620slodat

    How to remove a bed?

    Knowing this information is real good. Fortunately I have a cutting torch just a few feet away if needed, or a side grinder available close by also. I plan to get the gas tank out of there anyway, so I will need to do that first.
  14. 620slodat

    How to remove a bed?

    As DM said, only the nuts for the 6 or 8 bolts holding the bed to the frame are visible from under the vehicle. I'm not sure about access to the top side of the bolts as I didn't check. I didn't have anything with me to measure the size, so I just guessed at it. I'm not used to metric sizing as my whole life I worked with inch sizing instead. The nuts were somewhere close to 11/16ths inch.
  15. 620slodat

    How to remove a bed?

    I will be watching this thread as I need to do the same. My problem isn't having the correct tools, it is space and weather. I could be working on it now, but it is windy out there and blowing the rain and cold clear through. I grew up working in the raspberries rain or shine, cold or warm (usually in the winter so you know what I dealt with), so now I'm a pansy when it comes to cold and rain. I spent just a little bit of time looking things over and it looks like either 17 or 19mm box wrenches and sockets for the 6 or 8 bolts that hold the bed to the frame. There is also the electrical wiring to deal with, and the gas tank and lines also. I don't know for sure, but I'm guessing that a phillips screwdriver, flat screwdriver (or two for prying the gas filler off), and maybe a pair of wire cutters and/or pliers. If it is an early 620 the gas tank will be bolted to the bed and I think it is with 10mm bolts (maybe 12mm). Most of this is guess work as I was getting cold and didn't take very much time looking things over, but it will be a start. ps---DM is faster at typing and beat me while I was hunt and pecking.
  16. I got a slightly damaged right front fender and hood with the cab to have something that might be usable for patching the rusted out rocker panels in the extra cab section. I put the fender on and the front wheel appears to be centered in the opening. No, I didn't get a title with the cab, didn't think about it. I figured I would take the roof and extra cab section and put on my standard cab. The floor in the extra cab is real rusty and has several holes rusted through, so I figured that repairing the floor would be more work than putting the roof and extra cab section on my cab. On a side note, I was real surprised at the lack of turn out for the memorial. The guy was a barber and had a shop in downtown Albany for 49 years and should have known a lot of people there. I found out that nothing was put in the local paper about it. This guy's brother was married to my Dad's sister, so I sort of knew him, besides being my barber for many years. I only found out about the memorial service because my niece saw it on facebook and told my daughter about it. He was 85 and ran his shop up until the last few months.
  17. It is a 12/1977 build date, so I'm assuming it is a 1978. I slid the KC cab onto the 720 frame, dropped the rear body bolts into the cab/frame, and then proceeded to make the cuts into the inner fender for the steering gear. I ran out of time to finish everything so I went back the next day and finished. I had to trim the length of the center body mounts just a little bit to get the KC cab to drop down onto the frame. At that point I dropped the center and front body bolts into the body holes, and they went directly into the frame holes. From my measurements I will have about an inch or a little more between the cab and bed. My measurements are rough, but I will know soon as I plan in the next day or so to temporarily put the 620 bed on the 720 frame. Got to leave now for the memorial service, but I will check back sometime this evening.
  18. Wayno offered me a 720 diesel King Cab frame, and because of the way it will make things easier for me I took him up on the offer. Also, I found out that the 620 cab is a direct fit onto the 720 frame. I picked up a rusty floored 620 KC cab and temporarily put it on the 720 frame. I don't know about the 620 bed yet, but I will find out soon. It may not be today as I have a memorial service I want to attend, but the 620 is now on jack stands which will give me enough room to wiggle underneath and get the bed unbolted from the frame.
  19. Wayne, there are not very many 720's in the local wrecking yards. The only ones I can remember are 4 X 4's with tilt columns, so I will pick up a complete tilt column and steering box. Needing to possibly modify mounts for the column doesn't bother me. I will have to see if that section of column can move/expand, and if so by how much before I pick whether I use the manual box or power box. It is good news that the part of the column protruding from the dash is the same diameter as the 620 column. I am used to multi-function turn signal stalks so maybe I can find enough parts with the 720 column to use the 720 multi-function stalk parts. If not, I have all the parts needed to put the 620 turn signal, key switch, and cover onto the 720 column. We will see what comes from this.
  20. Wayne, this thread was meant to be specific to the 720 rear brakes. But, it morphed into what it is now. That is why I'm looking at making changes. If I use the thread in the 620 forum as a build thread it will make for a better fit as I will be asking many and diverse questions. DM, can you merge this thread into the existing thread in the 620 forum? I'm not sure how to make a thread title change, but this thread title can be dropped. I don't know how to change titles, but "and his diesel build" can be added to the existing thread title. I have made changes to the first post in this thread to explain that it deals with the 720 rear axle brakes.
  21. Mods, I am considering making this into a build thread since I know I will have so many questions about other areas besides just backing plates. The big reason why I haven't made a build thread yet is that I expect this thread to be very slow at times. But, I just finally got to the end of Charlie69's thread about his 521, and it spanned many years. So I need opinions. I am putting a 620 cab and bed onto a 720 frame, and the SD-22 diesel motor in also, but because I am on a very limited income things may get very slow at times due to lack of money at the moment. Do I make this into a build thread, and if so should it be in the 620 forum or 720 forum?
  22. Thank you for the info about the 720 steering column. I definitely am going to get rid of the "spear". What I end up using depends on what I find. I've looked at a 720 tilt column, and have a question for you. Under the hood of the 720 is what is supposed to be a collapsible portion of the column. It looks like it is built to collapse, but it is tight enough that just casually trying I couldn't get it to collapse. Will that section collapse? Can the power steering collapsible section be extended any if I end up going with the power steering column and use the manual box? The manual box is shorter than the power box, and has a smaller input shaft also. Currently I am thinking that the manual box is what I will use, but I am looking at all options. Maybe manual box and electric power steering at a later date? The space on the motor for a pump is limited, it probably can be done but could possibly take up valuable space needed for something else (maybe AC?). The manual steering gear box is on the frame I got from you, but the bearings feel rough. If I end up going with rebuilding the manual box and using the power steering column I have a way to address the two sizes of shafts. If I use the power steering box instead can the power box be used as a manual? If it works to use the power box as a manual box I am considering looping the inlet and outlet hose to keep dirt out and lubricant in. If I don't have a power steering pump to work against can the power box be easier to use than if the pump is in the equation? I need information, whether I go with tilt or not, power box or not. More information will help me make informed decisions. There will be more questions as I think of them, but for now this is enough. These questions are not just for Wayne. If somebody else has some pertinent information by all means please chime in.
  23. I understand that it is much easier to build a longer bed, and that modifying the cab could possibly take longer. I am definitely going to put a canopy on the bed (I am a canopy user), and I already have one. So, this knowledge dictates everything that I do. All the parameters for bed size have to be within sizes available in canopies. Also, the extra space available in the King Cab is needed for me to be able to stretch out (I need to be able to stretch my legs occasionally because of my disability). Being able to stretch out was a big concern for me with the single cab.
  24. I realize that doing bodywork might take some time, however I have lots of that. It's been 10 years now since I had to go on disability, and sometimes I go stir crazy. Often I don't have the funds to do what I really want, so I usually make do with what I can afford. That doesn't stop me from wanting certain things though, and sometimes I can find a way to finagle a way around some of the larger costs. Knowing the information is very cheap, and having the correct information can help greatly when something wanted comes up at a real good price. That's the ratsun way isn't it?
  25. Wayno, I do have the brake drum that you show in your first pic, not the drum shown in your second pic. I would like to have self adjusting brakes, but that doesn't mean I can afford to do the swap. If I find something that I can afford I will swap, if it is physically possible. I will leave the brake rebuild until the last in case something affordable comes up. In the meantime I will continue to look and search to see if the swap to self adjusters is possible. In the meantime, I have found a 1978 King Cab, but it has rust through in the rockers and floorboard. So I will repair the rust in the rocker part of the King Cab, and combine the standard cab and King Cab. The process I will use is to be determined yet. I'm doing a lot of thinking about this, and since I live next door to a professional body guy who apparently knows the older cars real well I'm going to see what he says is the best way.
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