Jump to content

620slodat

Members
  • Content Count

    83
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by 620slodat

  1. 620slodat

    Power steering

    Thank you for this info and the links for Borgeson parts. I have the steering shaft and box from a 1973 620 (spear made to look like a steering shaft) a 1985 720 shaft and box with power steering, and the manual box for a 1982 720. Don't know yet what I will use, but likely some kind of combo of what I have. Because of this thread I have more ideas, and the more ideas I get the better for the final outcome. I am seriously considering electric power steering because the area under the hood of a 620 is at a premium. I definitely am going to leave room for an AC unit (to keep the wife interested in the final outcome) and a turbo on the diesel motor, which will take up most of the available space. Don
  2. 620slodat

    Power steering

    I went out this morning and double checked my counts. On the manual box, 28 splines is correct. On the power box, 36 is the corrected count. I still wasn't confident in my count, so I counted again and came up with 28 and 36 splines. I'm a cabinetmaker (started in 1968), so accuracy is important to me. I don't know where I goofed up on the power box, (OOOPPPS!!!) maybe because the shaft was dirty, and the light at that time in the evening wasn't very good. Anyway, both boxes had the shafts cleaned with lacquer thinner, sandpaper lightly run over the tops of the splines to make them stand out, and a sharpie marker used on the splines to help keep track of where I was in the count. The power box was out of the vehicle so I could get a much more accurate count on the splines. Anyway, sorry for the confusion, and the spline count is corrected. I haven't looked yet, but what you found out about the u-joint availability will make a big impact on my decision of which box to use (and steering column). The next big hurdle for me is can the power box be used as a manual if the box has power steering (transmission) fluid put in it. The fluid ports will be hooked together so the fluid could possibly travel in a complete circle through the box and the "lines" without restriction. I plan to eventually put electric power steering in the pickup. Don
  3. 620slodat

    Power steering

    I have both a 1982 manual steering box and a 1985 power steering box for a 720. The input shaft sizes are different. The manual box is .5675 inch (or there about) and 28 splines. The power box is .6750 (or there about) and 35 spline. I used my digital calipers to measure the diameter with. The splines I counted several times (not easy when dirty and greasy) and came up with the same numbers each time. I haven't looked, but Borgeson has a lot of choices for u-joints. Don PS- something I almost forgot about. The inputs are different also in the way they are configured. The manual box has a flat end on the shaft with a milled area on the side of the shaft for a bolt in the flex joint that pinches the flex joint onto the shaft. The power box has an end just like the 280ZX box that D.M. pictured. But, then it had a groove cut all the way around the shaft about the middle of the length of the spline. This means that a u-joint, or flex joint, could be put on, and bolted, in any location around the shaft.
  4. I definitely am technically challenged. My daughter was able to get the pic here, but I don't understand how she got it here. Anyway, here is the drivers side of the seat. The pickup is under construction so the other side of the seat (and elsewhere) is covered with parts. It appears to be the same configuration as in the first post. I hope this picture helps you. Don
  5. I have a 1973 620 that was my dad's, which he bought brand new. I know the full history on it, and the straight front seat is the original in it. If I can figure out how to post it I have a pic of the drivers side of the seat. I am surprised in how good of condition it is considering the age. Dad put some foam rubber and an aftermarket seat cover on it. Although I only pulled the foam and seat cover off the drivers side to get pics and to look at it, the drivers side usually gets most of the wear. There is one rip in it, in the sewn section, the full length of the rib, and the foam under the original seat cover is in good shape. I will try now to see if I can post a pic. Don ps-the seat shown in the first post could be the same as the one I have.
  6. I found it interesting what the pic showed for the front cable. I will have to crawl under Dads 1973 standard cab short bed to see what I can see the "trolley" and how it hooks to the rear cable. I wonder if the system used there is the same as used on the 1978 King Cab. I don't remember what the 1978 used there. It may have been gone when I first saw it in the pick-n-pull. The cable shown in your link #2 has the same style metal end on the right end of the sheath as the one I have that has remnants of the bellows on it. None of the links shows the strain relief that both of my cables have. Both of my cables have a strain relief (like is used on power tool electric cords where the cord goes into the tool handle) where the sheath goes into the backing plate. I've got to go now, but thanks for the three links. I found what each showed to be very interesting. Don
  7. I went out and measured them and got these dimensions: OEM sheath 56 15/16ths inch, OEM cable 66 5/8ths inch; aftermarket sheath 57 7/16ths inch, aftermarket cable 66 11/16ths inch. There were two swagged knobs on the brake end of both cables. I measured to the inside edge of the farthest one, which was about 1 3/16ths inch beyond the first swagged knob. A difference in sheaths of 1/2 inch and cables of 1/16th inch. I'm calling OEM the one that has remnants of a rubber bellows that protect the cable from moisture and dirt because of the way that the bellows attached to the steel end on the sheath. The bellows attached with a ring (like an O-ring) molded into the interior of the outer portion slipped over the metal end of the sheath as part of the outer rubber. The aftermarket bellows did not have the O-ring molded into the interior. It was held onto the metal end of the sheath just by friction. The sheath was measured from the backing plate mounting surface to the other end where the metal end of the sheath touched the frame. The cable was measured from inside the swagged end (that pulled on the brake mechanism) on the end of the cable) to inside the other matching swagged end. As noted above, there is about 1 3/16ths inch between the swagged knobs on the brake end of the cable. The cable lengths were within 1 inch longer (at the longest swagged knob) on my cables to 1/4 inch shorter if measured from the inner knob than you listed above. Depending on whether you look at the specs for the standard bed or the long bed the sheath lengths are 1 inch, or less, different in length. From these dimensions listed I surmised that the cables for the rear probably will fit your pickup. I think there is enough adjustment in the e-brake system to allow for these length differences. (by the way, I spent almost 40 years working with cabinets so measuring accurately is in my blood)
  8. Wayno (on this web site) is the SD-22 and SD-25 expert. He would be able to tell you if the oil pan will work with the stock independent 4 X 4 front pumpkin ((I don't thank it will work). He put an SD-25 (22?) into a 720 frame. I think that he went SAS though instead of independent suspension. He also put the diesel wire harness into the 521 cab, and put that onto the diesel frame. So, he is well experienced in what you are thinking of doing. The motor mounts for the SD-22 are in a slightly different location than the gasser motors. I started putting an SD-22 into a 620 standard cab pickup. Then I was given a 720 long wheel base frame that originally had the SD-22 in it, so I went that way. By using a piece of 1/4" plate I was able to put the SD-22 motor on the 620 gasser motor mount. I don't remember the exact dimensions, but the gasser mount is somewhere around 1 to 1 1/2" behind the SD-22 motor mount. However, if you are a better welder than I am putting the motor mount in the correct location would be better than the plate. I did not have the diesel wire harness, but I was able to get the SD-22 running, like from the factory, with a rotary switch from Radio Shack and the stock IP controller. I now have an aftermarket diesel ignition switch, which is still up in the air if it will work for me in the final set up. By the way, could there be a typo in your location? I couldn't find a Wilerville in Oregon, but Wilderville is just west of the Applegate River, and a little bit southwest of Grant Pass. I lived in the Grants Pass area in the early 70's. Don
  9. I got back home about an hour ago, and went out and double checked what I saw this morning. When I took the cables off the rear end I never marked them for right or left side (making a trailer out of the bed and back half of the frame plus using cab and under hood parts for other things). Both cable sheath's were about 1/4 inch from being the same length. And the cables were also within 1/4 inch of being the same. However, the longer sheath had the shorter cable, and vice-versa. Both cables and sheaths were almost identical in looks. The only difference I could detect was in the end that would have been attached to the frame, not the rear axle. That difference was in how the rubber bellows protecting the cable might have been attached. The remnants of the bellows was on one cable, while the other was completely gone. The biggest difference might have been because one might have been newer than the other, but I'm not sure. The possibility of being manufactured at two different times, and maybe being manufactured by two different plants, could explain the slightly different lengths. Going by what I saw I think that one cable could indeed be used for either side like you surmised. By the way, for those that are not involved in these measurements this is for a long wheelbase frame. The pickup was a King Cab and standard bed. From what I understand the frame is the same length whether it is a standard cab and long bed, or a King Cab and standard bed. Don
  10. I have a 1978 620 long wheelbase that I used for parts. The rear parking brake cables that I took off it are the same length each side. I compared the cables to a 1982 long wheelbase that I have, and they are different. The 1982 has different lengths for the left and right sides. I am short on time right now so I don't have time to measure the cables for the 1978, but later today I will get the lengths. Don
  11. Thank you all for your replies. It may be a little bit of time before I can get to this as i have a lot of projects to deal with now that the sun finally came out (garden, other plants, etc). But, you have eased my mind. I actually made a little progress yesterday. It was because I had to move the frame (now closer to the 620 that is supplying the bed) in order to access the huge pile of brush and weeds that have piled up in order to burn it. Don
  12. 620slodat

    AC install 83

    I like what you are doing. I hope to be able to do something similar in my 620 someday, so I will be watching closely. We will see what actually happens. Don
  13. Thank you for the reply DM. Don
  14. What is the weight of a standard length bed for a 620?Just curious as I need to plan ahead for pulling the bed and want to choose how to do that. If three people can handle the task I have myself, my son and my daughter. Otherwise, I will need to rig up a lift of some sorts. Don
  15. I am putting a 620 cab onto a 1982 long wheel base frame. I'm busy with other stuff now so this swap is temporarily at a stand still. But, what I have found so far is that the cab mounting points for a 620 King Cab and a 720 King Cab are the same on the long wheel base frame. Measurements for a standard 620 bed mounts and the mounts on the long bed 720 frame seem to be the same. The big question currently is how much gap will be between the King Cab and the standard bed when on the 720 long wheel base frame. I don't think it will be much different than the stock gap going by my measurements. The reason I'm going with the 720 frame is that it is set up already for diesel and disc brakes, and I am going to be using an SD-22 diesel motor and transmission (different placement of the motor mounts). Also, the steering gear box and idler arm are outside the frame (620 are inside the frame taking up part of the space), leaving more space for extra stuff hanging on the side of the motor (most likely AC, and maybe power steering). As far as the OP is concerned, finding a stock 4 X 4 720, and modifying it to carry his tools, will be the most the most cost effective. However, if he finds a 720 4 X 4 frame and a 620 body the swap will be easier than putting AWD into a 620. Don
  16. My son has a Subaru WRX STI with all wheel drive (you could switch to 4WD also). Between all wheel drive, super wide tires (I think they are stock with that particular vehicle), and a very stiff suspension it will corner like it is glued to tracks. So much so that if you are not used to it you will be scared of sliding and crashing. I don't know what all wheel drive that doesn't have super wide tires or as stiff of a suspension will do, but I would think it would still corner better than most 2WD vehicles. Also, I don't know how hard, or difficult, it would be to put all wheel drive in a 620. All wheel drive is most likely not cost effective, but 4WD (like came stock) with Datsun/Nissan (not SAS) should be. It might be even more cost effective to find a 720 series that was a stock 4WD instead of what you are looking at right now. Modifying a stock 4WD vehicle to haul tools should be much less expensive, and more cost effective. I have a full size 4WD pickup (not the first one for me), so I do have experience with 4WD, and I do occasionally use it to haul tools (or firewood) around. They are harder on fuel than a stock 2WD, but the trade off is worth having it around for those times when 4WD is needed. Don
  17. In Oregon the only places that do smog checks on vehicles is the Portland metro area, and Medford, at opposite ends of I-5. Subaru's to me are like a Tmex watch, "takes a licken' and keeps on ticken'" (one of their ad lines from many years ago for those that are too young to know what that line means). If I had the funds I might be interested in the Subaru if it was a wagon and all wheel drive. Many years ago we got a beater 1973 2wd Subaru station wagon that was like that Timex watch. The first vehicle we had that would consistently get over 20 mpg. Don
  18. I can understand where you are coming from Wayno. I have read too many bad reports about aftermarket fans that have gone bad.Sometimes it is the fan, and sometimes it has been because of the wiring components/way they were installed (questionable components). Because of these kind of reports I have decided that if I go to an electric fan it will be a stock electric fan (better quality). The car companies put much more effort into making sure that the quality in the fan, and the wiring/switches are the best because their warranty and reputation around the world is on the line. It's not just amazon pushing the sales, it's the reputation of the auto manufacturer. Do the auto manufacturers make mistakes? Sure, but they stand behind the products better. Don
  19. Use a stock Nissan fan as stock fans seem to hold up better than aftermarket fans from everything I've read. A 2000-2001 Sentra fan seems to be about the best size for a stock SD-22 radiator, it has two fans (a five blade fan and seven blade fan) and it appears to have four speeds available. The big questions are, did I try the correct wire combinations for the fan, and how best to fit the fan to the SD-22 radiator as I have yet to do that part. The biggest problem that I have yet to get an answer for is that the upper right fan mount and the coolant return to the upper right tank of the stock SD-22 radiator occupy the same place. A possible solution that I am currently looking for information on is a radiator for 2000-2001 Nissan Sentra along with the cooling fan. The fan and radiator would work together correctly, but would the Sentra radiator be adequate to cool the SD-22. Also, I don't have any answers yet about mounting the Sentra radiator. The Sentra radiator (aluminum) is thinner than the stock SD-22 radiator which leaves more space for an AC condenser, but does thinner work with the SD-22. Don
  20. 620slodat

    my 1974 dats

    Thank you for the reply. So you are somewhere between the community college and the end of the four lanes. Beautiful area. When I first moved there I was used to the open spaces of the Willamette Valley and didn't like the area, but it didn't take really long for it to grow on me. Good thing I didn't have the Datsun pickup at that time, I probably would have spent all my extra money, and then some more, on driving the area to get to know it (including the logging roads). Fuel mileage is why I am now SLOWLY building up the 1973 with a diesel motor, hoping to be able to afford spending a little more time on the roads in the state. Don
  21. G-Duax got some real good pics of the 1973 idler arm and the clearances to the lower control arm. Plenty of space between the lower control arm and the idler arm, somewhere around an inch. Isomswim, how much space do you have between the idler arm and the lower control arm? How long is your idler arm? What is the length of the movable part of the idler arm from the collar up next to the pivot? From that same collar, what is the distance to the lower control arm? Can you get pics of where you measured from? Don
  22. I have a 1973 620, and the orientation of your idler arm looks like what I remember for the 1973. I currently have the tie rod and idler arm off so I can't do a direct comparison. Don
  23. 620slodat

    my 1974 dats

    I just looked up the gauge install pics (pg 3, 14th post from the top, I don't have post numbers visible on my page on my computer). Thank you Farmer! Very good information there. Looks very easy. Does the 4th pic show the difference in reflection between the domed glass lens on the tach and the flat plastic lens on the speedometer? I am partial to glass as it won't scratch as easy as plastic, but there is a difference in reflectivity there. Maybe Frank will chime in and comment on the gauges. Also, the gas tank level sender was listed as 90-0 ohms which is good information. By the way (slight turn away from the subject), where at in GP are you located? I spent 2 years there from the summer of 1971 to the summer of 1973. For the first few months I lived in town, then I moved out to Murphy. At the time Josephine County was one of the poorest/lowest wage counties in the state. Since then the town has changed and grown a lot.
  24. Welcome!! I find your project fascinating. I have a 1973 620 that my Dad bought brand new, and since he is now gone I plan to put a diesel in it. I had a 1982 Datsun 720 diesel King Cab frame given to me. So far I have found that a 620 King Cab (and most likely the standard cab) will fit on the 720 King Cab frame with a perfect match for the body to frame bolts. I haven't got far enough to try the 620 bed on the 720 frame, but my measurements say that it will fit directly mount bolt for mount bolt. The biggest difference so far I've found is that the 620 steering box and the idler arm are on the inside of the frame, while the 720 steering box and idler arm are on the outside of the frame. This is a plus if you plan to add things to the side of the motor (A.C., power steering, etc), which I plan to do. The fact that the steering box and idler arms are mounted different means that the 720 and 620 front suspensions are different (king pins for the 1977 and earlier 620, and ball joints for the 1978 and later 620 and all the 720's).The fact that you have a King Cab means that you might have disc brakes. Don
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.