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620slodat

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Everything posted by 620slodat

  1. DM, here are pics of the steering wheel. I am assuming it is a Datsun wheel because of the D in the center of the spokes in the first pic. The wheel is sideways in that pic as the spoke pointing to the right in the pic is actually the vertical center spoke at the bottom of the wheel. The second pic is of the back of the center spoke. I am used to screws showing up here and on the other spokes, and having to remove them to get to the nut on the steering shaft, but there are no screws. In the second pic you can see the dividing line between the front half and back half of the spokes. These are two separate pieces, and will be the assumed place where the front half comes off to expose the steering shaft and nut. What I am needing is someone who has experience with this type of wheel and can tell me how it comes apart. Don
  2. I have a 1979 King Cab that I need the steering wheel removed. I have removed the steering wheel on many different cars, but this one seems to be different. I just have removed the screws on the back of the spokes to remove the front of the spokes/horn buttons to get to the nut on the steering shaft. But, this is different, no screws on the back of the spokes. The steering wheel is different in that it has three spokes instead of the two like I am used to on early Datsuns. There is a dividing line between the front and back of the spoke, making two pieces out of the spoke, but no screws holding them together. Are the front and back just snapped together? I need somebody with experience with this type of wheel to give me some pointers as I don't want to damage this wheel. I am going out there to the pickup as soon as I finish this post and will get some pictures, if they will be needed. Don
  3. Thank you for the offer! I have pulled the instrument cluster out as of yesterday (a whole story in itself). The tach was wired in with a scotch lock and a wire nut. One of these two was just barely long enough to get the cluster out just a little ways. The third wire is stretched out through the dash cavity. How it is hooked up is yet to be found out. I haven't looked very close at the wiring yet, but seems to be OK. The tach and radio are not stock with this vehicle. This was all done to figure out the fuse block. The wiper fuse is still intact, and the scotch lock was on that wire, between the fuse and the wiper motor. I had only 10.5 volts at the wiper motor, and 12.3+ elsewhere. I carefully squeezed the fuse clamps together, and one was just barely held together and broke. All the rest seemed to hold together alright (haven't cleaned them yet). The short story is that I either need a different fuse block, or a new fuse panel. I do have a blade style fuse panel, but it is not wired in yet. The quickest thing would be to repair the original fuse block. I will take a look at it and see if the clip can be replaced. If so that would be the quickest way to get it going again. I have been planning to go up to see wayno and get a ride in his pickup with the stock rear leafs to find out what the stock 720 rear suspension is like. The rain is here most of the time, and outside chores are almost out of the question now because of the rain ( i had to work rain or shine growing up and I am now against working in the rain). So, consequently I have been thinking very much about seeing when he is available. If so, I would be going past there on I-5. I don't know yet when though. I will keep in touch. Don ps-I need your phone number so I can put it into my cell phone. I have looked for it, but so far no luck. I have been getting a LOT of scam calls lately and have been ignoring any calls that don't have a number/name in my phone. PM me with it so it won't be on the internet.
  4. I took a base out of my 1979 gauge cluster this evening and it measures about .610 across just above the electrical contacts that touch the board. So, .625, or 5/8ths, should be right. I didn't go out to measure the hole in the board, just about ready to go to bed. The one I took out looks like one on the far right in DM's picture. Don
  5. Thank you for replying DM and wayno. It is a big help to me to understand how the measurements were taken by the engineers. One thing I was wondering about was how the engineers did their measuring, and now I know. The disc is one size, and the pressure plate mounting surface adds to that size. I happened to think last night that I had the new clutch pressure plate and disc here, so I measured them this morning. The PP measures 11 3/8ths minus overall diameter with the mounting surface included, and 8 15/16ths overall for the contact surface. I happened to think that my computer should change inches to metric, so I tried. It seems to work! Anyhow, 8 15/16ths is 227mm, so DM you are correct in that the SD22 is a 225mm DISC. But, the pressure plate mounting surface needs to be accounted for also. This should take the flywheel, with teeth, out to about 11 15/16ths. I have had the flywheel surfaced,(the old clutch disc was badly stuck to the flywheel), so the flywheel was probably about 26 lbs originally (maybe only about 81K miles on the motor). I know that flywheels can vary in weight, even among motors of the same type. This was why I included the weight. This brings up a question that I was wondering about. Is the motor internally balanced, or externally balanced? I was wondering about the flywheel as it seems to be about the same all the way around it. I'm guessing that the motor is internally balanced. I know that the transmissions can be used among many different motor families, with a change of the transmission front housing to the SD22 housing (starter motor mounting is different). Consequently the flywheels dimensions had to have been the same among the different motor families. This information confirms to me that the flywheels are the same. Only change is the weight. Don
  6. First, I need to say that this is as much for helping me keep track of what I have as giving the information for somebody else to use. I used a Stanley tape measure, so the measurements are not in decimal inches. The outside diameter of the flywheel from outside of tooth to outside of tooth. 11 15/16ths minus (in other words, not quite 15/16ths). The outside diameter of the pressure plate face. 11 3/8ths minus. The inner diameter of the pressure plate face is 5 7/8ths minus. The center to center dimension of the mounting bolts to the crank shaft, and 6 bolts total. 3 11/16ths minus. The mounting bolts are 7/16ths minus, probably 10 mm. The center hole is 2 7/16ths (minus maybe? It's hard to measure these small items). The weight of the flywheel is 25.6 lbs. My scales wouldn't weigh the flywheel, so I had to weigh myself while holding the flywheel, then just myself alone, and 25.6 lbs is the difference. The flywheel has 199 teeth. I counted them twice to make sure, and came up with the same number each time. I'm not a metric whiz, but I did work with measurements, and fractions, every day of work. So, I'm pretty confidant that these dimensions are accurate. Does anybody recognize these dimensions? I know they correspond to something, maybe the L series. I'm not real good yet with the differences between the series. I'm primarily learning about the 620 and early 720 pickups. Don
  7. 620slodat

    Sd25 Fuel Adjustment

    With diesel a temperature increase is opposite of a gas motor. Increased fuel increases temperature for a diesel motor, and an IDI motor (SD25) will hold more heat in the head than a DI motor. Also, increased fuel will increase chances of black smoke, as you alluded to. If the motor spent it's entire life at a higher elevation it is probably set up with a leaner fuel mix. 1000f is not excessively high (do you have an EGT gauge?), but is not low for a diesel either, especially not turboed and on flat ground. If the motor is at a lower elevation now than it was set up for it is probably running a bit rich. A turbo probably would help you, but the SD22/25 is not easily turboed because of the vacuum controlled intake system. Contact wayno (on this site) for how he turboed his diesel motors. He is one of the few who have successfully turboed his motors. It really depends on how you hook up the turbo. He has at least two Datsun diesel SD25's that he dropped into 520/521 pickups and turboed them. Don
  8. I checked for Radio Shack on-line, but nothing about who took over was in this area close to me. Since It was raining this afternoon I used that excuse to spend the afternoon looking on-line at fuse blocks, mostly the blade type. I liked the quality of Blue Sea, but the price! I like the blocks that have a small LED that lights up when the fuse blows, but Blue Sea didn't have that that I could find. But, that probably adds something that will break down. Does anybody have this feature that can tell me if it is any good? What I was looking for was a split system, part will work without the key on, and part will need the key to be on and powered. Most that I found on-line was at least 12 circuits (6 and 6), and I don't think I will need that many circuits, even with adding a few. I don't need the negative strip that most Blue Sea blocks had. My negative system goes through the frame/body, as do all the Datsuns that I'm familiar with. I DO want a clear cover over the block. I may need to get two separate blocks to get the split system without having a large quantity of fuses. I need to go to town tomorrow to get some special chicken feed that I ordered, so I'm going to have to check and see what is available locally. I will also pull the currant fuse block to see if anything close in size can be found. Don
  9. I'm going to need another fuse block. The back left hand fuse was loose from the beginning several days ago. A couple days ago I tried gently squeezing the clips together and the clip broke. When I looked at the break area It was easy to see that the metal had been already fatigued and was very very thin at the break. Consequently, with the low voltage for the wiper motor I decided yesterday to get a new fuse block. I haven't decided yet what to get, but I'm leaning towards getting a brand new block, probably a blade type. I will need to spend some time. Then I will trouble shoot the voltage problem, if needed with the new block. I'm open to suggestions for a new fuse block. Don
  10. I checked both ends of the fuse, 12.4V+. I also pulled all the fuses and put one at a time into the fuse block until power went to the wire to the wiper motor. But, like DM said, power may not go all the way through. I need to check the brass part that holds the fuse. That is why I like this site. Somebody will say something that will bring to light something else to check. Thanks DM! Don
  11. I currently have the wiper motor working, with the park function (I think). My question now pertains to voltage. I get 12.4V+ at the battery I'm using, 12.4V+ at the ignition switch, 12.4V+ at the fuse block, but only 10.5V+ at the wiring connector at the wiper motor. According to what I'm seeing on the diagram there are two wiring splices between the fuse block and the wiper motor, but no connectors. What I'm wondering is for those of you who have experience with this circuit, is this correct? Without going under the dash (and spending a lot of time) I'm wondering what there could be between the fuse block and the wiper motor to reduce the voltage. Don
  12. Aluminum/veneer will probably be the least weight, but will be more difficult to glue. Not saying it can't be done, just more difficult. Have you thought about quarter inch Baltic Birch ply? Just a bit heavier than aluminum/veneer, but just as tough and you won't have gluing problems. It can also be sanded down a bit to make it just a little bit thinner and lighter. For those that aren't aware of Baltic Birch plywood, it is metric and approximately 5ft x 5ft and closely approximates the different thicknesses of american plywood, and every veneer ply is the same thickness and uses the same wood as the surface veneer. If you want/need experiences involving gluing wood to wood, or wood to plastic laminates PM me. By the way, I spent 35+ years in cabinet shops/installing cabinets, and most of the other jobs I had were in some way connected with woodworking. Don
  13. I didn't know about the Mustang yard. I knew about the Mustang place, but I never knew they had a yard also. Of course, I don't have a vintage Mustang either (my brother had two back when they didn't have much value). The Millersburg yard is one I never even thought about. In my mind it is only a scrap yard. It was there when I was in Millersburg Grade School back in the late fifties and early sixties. The Paul family actually lived on site at the time. The older son (deceased now) was about my age. We live on the property I grew up on, just north of the Grange Hall. The Goldfish Farm yard was there when I was in high school. It was family owned at the time, and I went to high school with the son of the owner. That yard is now owned? by a guy that is friends with somebody I used to work for (he has several throughout the Willamette Valley). There is another yard less than half a mile away (also several other yards), fronting on Hwy 20. It has also gone through at least one hand in my time. The yard at the end of Scravel Hill Rd used to be open as a wrecking yard, but has been a scrap yard for many years. So it is open only once in a while? It doesn't even look like it is open any more. Albany has gone through some MAJOR changes since I was in school. Don
  14. I was wrong. The contact points inside the transmission were not touching the metal plates. Also, the points may have been burnt. When I tried bending the contacts back into touching the metal plates the contact strips were not as "springy" as I thought they should be. Because of the softness of the metal strips I will see if I can find another wiper motor. I am concerned about future loss of contact with the metal plates. Because it is still dark here I will have to wait until later to try the wiper motor park function. But, I will try again. Don
  15. The wiper motor was out of the pickup when I checked function a second time, yesterday. I used the wire colors to check high and low speeds, and they were there. Although it doesn't show there, I used some fine emery cloth to get the tips of the contacts bright. I never thought about the contacts showing that they might have been hot at some time, but I will check it. I didn't actually check for contact with the metal plates. Looking back I'm sure that contact was made, but I'll double check the contact this evening. I tried joining the two wires on the harness side, but I didn't get any park function. I will see what I can do about getting the park function from the motor side tomorrow. Don
  16. Since this thread has ended up including the wiper motor, I added wiper motor to the title. I made a little bit of time to do some checking on the wiper motor today. I used my Astro van as the power source and did some checking of the wiper motor. I got low and high speeds, but still never got the park function to work. I kept the power (12V+) and the ground (12v-) hooked up and tried several ways to get the park function to work. But no success with getting the park function working. The output shaft stopped any place it wanted when the power to the low speed was removed. I may be doing things all wrong, so I need someone to go over again what is needed to make the park function work. In all my checking I kept the power (12V+) and the negative (12V-) hooked up since that is what I though the pickup would do. I bridged blue and yellow, no park function. I bridged blue, yellow, and low speed, no park function. Can anybody help me out with ideas? Don
  17. My daughter was here and had to leave again, so I got my son's help. I don't know what he did, but in just a few clicks he had the picture uploaded (he is poor at explaining in simple enough terms for me to understand). He had it done so fast that I didn't even get to finish a post I had started. So, another post here we come. This is a pic of the internals of a wiper motor transmission for a Datsun 620. If you don't know what a wiper motor transmission looked like, now you do. If you put this picture together with my ramblings you might be able to understand what I'm trying to say. If anybody has questions I will try to explain. Since I got low and high speeds to work, and I get continuity for the park function, the switch is probably needing to be cleaned up to get the park function to work properly. I will check that out next. It may take me a few days to find time to check out the switch. We are having clear blue skies when it is usually raining and wet. So, "I have to make hay while the sun shines". In other words, I have lots to do around the place that is best done when it is dry. Don
  18. DM, I appreciate you and your abilities. I'm glad that you were able to understand my ramblings. But, because you are not the only one reading this thread I'm still planning to get some help to post a picture of the inside of the wiper transmission.
  19. I got the wiper motor back out of the pickup, took the cover off the transmission portion of the motor and did a continuity check. The plastic connector is riveted to the wiper motor transmission cover. Both the blue wire and the metal connector for the yellow wire (for the park function from the loom/switch) go through the plastic connector block using two copper springy strips on the inside of the transmission cover carrying the park function into the inside of the transmission cover, without using any visible wires to carry the park function into the motor. That is why I didn't see the yellow wire from the loom going anywhere beyond the connector. There were only four visible wires, not five. The copper springy strips that go inside the transmission cover touch against a short metal plate on the side of the nylon gear. This short metal plate only goes a small way around the gear, but this short metal plate is wide enough to connect the two wires together and exciting the park function. The metal strip (closest to the center of the nylon gear) that connects to the yellow negative park function wire (from the loom) also runs against a longer metal plate. This longer plate goes all the way around the nylon gear, except for where the short metal plate is and about 3/16ths on either side of the short metal plate. This longer metal plate keeps the yellow wire in contact long enough for the park function to work when it is called for by the switch. I know this is confusing, and a picture is needed. I tried to put a picture on here, unsuccessfully. My daughter has been gone all day, and when she gets home later this evening I will get her help. Don
  20. I just now took some time to look at the wiring diagram. The diagram shows a yellow wire on the wiper motor, but I don't remember any evidence of a yellow wire on the wiper motor. It's dark outside now and I put the wiper motor back in the pickup, so I will have to look at the wiper motor some other time. I don't think I will have any time to look tomorrow. Don
  21. Thank you DM!! I've made some time and started doing some checking, and so far I have high and low speeds, but I haven't found any park function yet. To get the park function you say to jumper the blue and yellow wires. Are you talking about connecting the blue and yellow in the switch? My wiper motor does not have a yellow wire. There is a yellow wire in the wire loom from the switch. But, it dead ends in the connection block at the wiper motor. I only have four wires on the wiper motor side of the connection block. Red (12V+, connects to blue/red stripe in the loom), White/Blue stripe (connects to blue/white stripe), Blue (connects to blue), empty spot (connects to yellow in the loom), Black (ground, connects to black). I haven't had time yet to look at the wiring diagram. Don
  22. To start with I've spent several hours searching and can't find what I need. I recently purchased a 1979 620 King Cab for parts. It appears that the pickup was equipped with at least the delayed wipers (I found the delay set up, and it seems to work), a 5 speed transmission, and maybe more. The following are the first set of questions I have. There will most likely be more to come as I may not get all the information needed between the wiring diagram and my searching. 1 & 2--There is no cover over the fuse block, and I need to know what size fuses are needed, and what each fuse goes to. A pic would be ideal if you have a cover over your fuse block. The fuse block in there has one flat edge and one edge with a semi-circle for part of it. I have 12.6+ volts up to the fuse block, but only about 10.5 volts at the wiper motor. Is this enough? 3--Is there a relay in between the fuse block and the motor? I can't find any on the wiring diagram, and searching under the dash is very time consuming, and hard. 4--The motor appears to work when I test it out of the vehicle, but the motor will not park. If anybody has experience with the wiper motor testing I want to hear it. 5--Will the park function work properly if the motor is rotated where it mounts to the firewall, but the wiper arms are put back on compensating for the different park position? I think it will, but have no experience with doing this. Don
  23. Just out of curiosity, where did you get your information? There are not two wrecking yards on Queen St, only one. The wrecking yard on Queen, although quite small, is the first place I check when I am looking for something. There used to be a yard (several years ago it closed) on the very west end of Queen, but small and very messy, and located between the old OE Line railroad and the end of Queen. It actually fronted on Riverside Drive, and close to where the east end of Riverside ended Queen crossed the Calapooia River, turned south and became Oakville Road. The rest of the yards in the area (that I did not include) may have Albany addresses, but are several miles out of town. Also, if there is a yard in the Millersburg area I would like to check it out as I live about a half mile north of the north edge of the "town". It is a very spread out, and rural, "town" that has the north/south main railroad as it's eastern boundary. Don
  24. I have my Dad's 1973 that he bought brand new, so I know it is the original seat. It was manufactured in July of 1973. It doesn't have any cutout in the center of the seat. And, as you can see the metal slider appears to be the same as your 1974. I didn't take very much time to see how the seat frame was constructed, but maybe the seat frame could be lowered some without changes to the slider mechanism . If this could be done you might get anywhere from 1 to 2 inches. You might be able to modify the seat mounts slightly to gain another 1/2 to 1 inch in height. This might get you enough clearance to the steering wheel to be able to get into the pickup without touching the "new" seat (it looks too good to do anything to). While doing this you might be able to move the seat back just a little bit also. Moving the seat back would depend a lot on the distance between the gas pedal and the seat cushion, and the length of you leg. The original seat cover is there, as is also some foam that my Dad added, and the aftermarket seat cover that he added on top of the foam. The original padding seems to be just "horsehair" padding, and the foam he added would reduce the height of the seat to steering wheel distance. However, the steering wheel and column is not in the pickup, otherwise I could measure that for you also. Don
  25. 620slodat

    L16 to L20 swap

    I don't know the Datsun motors very well, but from your description (backfiring through the carb) it sure sounds like it is out of time. Double check, and triple check your timing sequence. Maybe 180 out? I know you brought all these symptoms up, but my experience is that sometimes the simplest things that will cause the problems. Once I spent several hours on Dad's 1973 620 (died in downtown Albany) and once I replaced the rotor it started right up. We had been to Ukiah, Oregon the day before, which happens to be many miles from the nearest town with any parts stores. Don
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