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Everything posted by captain720

  1. I'd say you have 20 minutes with the aviation grade make a gasket and 30 with the gasgacinch. Depends on ambient air temp and humidity a lot
  2. EMPI is currently selling idle cut solonoid on Amazon, I ordered one gonna test it out. Could be nice on 115° F days cause sometimes I get a little dieseling on those days
  3. Make sure to not over torque and check your Weber adapters for flat with a straight edge
  4. Yes loctite, aviation grade permatex make a gasket is a beautiful product and perfect for this application, but your window on it is small before it starts setting up not super beginner friendly. Gasgacinch is more new user friendly and does a similar task with less residue, I go gasgacinch on Weber adapter plates but I think the aviation grade permatex makes a better seal but it's not as easy to clean up later. As far as how much to apply it's a pretty thin product so just coat all the surfaces evenly in a thin layer
  5. Maybe your hazard flasher has been switched for an electronic flasher instead of a manual one? Every mechanical flasher rig I have ever driven does the voltage drop thing
  6. My truck has always done this but I believe it does it with hazards too, is this a new thing for yours? All my turn signals work they just draw a lot of power
  7. Yes that is the going rate for new. O'Reilly's ones have a 100% fail rate some fail out of box, some last a week do not use the O'Reilly's ones
  8. @DIY 1985the ground side of the fuse block acts as a ground bus, I have ran extra wires from the fender, the negative battery post, and multiple other locations for exactly the purposes you mention
  9. I just run everything off my fender fuse block for keyed power, full video on you tube about that
  10. Honestly wouldn't be surprised if that did happen, I seen the weirdest stuff
  11. I don't know exactly what's legal but I've seen every kinda thing on the road down here. It seems people only get in trouble if it fails. Personally I always go the professional route
  12. captain720

    83 720

    Also it's a 3.5 rear diff
  13. captain720

    83 720

    Valves adjusted last night, most were close to spec. Distributor cap is the aluminum kind not the brass/bronze type and has a lot of oxidization on the contacts plus the rotor is nearly gone, could be the cause of some problems
  14. captain720


    Yes that is with the Weber. Do you have a Weber?
  15. captain720


    Here's my times for this thread.
  16. Nissan didn't use sealers, but sometimes previous owners have scored the aluminum and it will either need to be surfaced or a lightweight sealant like gasgacinch used
  17. BPR6EGP and BPR5EGP work perfectly
  18. captain720

    Loud Thunk

    You have to re-torque the u bolts after installing new ones at intervals. If you skip that step they come loose and your axle clunks around
  19. It regulated temperature of manifold both warming it up on cold days and cooling it on hot days, stable temp mixture makes more power, optimized fuel atomization, and helps prevent gas boiling
  20. Good deal I'll try them and report back how they work. They were all that's available in town and only cost a few dollars more so I decided to go for it
  21. For the record the NGK BPR5EGP seem to be exactly the same as the BPR5ES just with a fancier tip material construction. But I'm not a spark plug expert
  22. Is anybody running NGK BPR6EGP and BPR5EGP in their Z24s? I never really payed attention to spark plug version before always just ran the cheapest NGK plugs I could get. I've seen people say to only run Exhaust Plugs...BPR5ES Intake Plugs......BPR6ES before but it seems like the EGPs should work just fine?
  23. Do you know what year it is and do you have a datsun factory service manual?
  24. Made a little walk around video of the truck got some video of the nearly indestructible mudflap setup and some other stuff.
  25. I have seen leaves in the blower motor slow down the airflow alot, consider just taking the motor out of the housing and check for debris
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